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Flat tire - What I learned

21K views 108 replies 27 participants last post by  X73 
#1 ·
I came out of my eye doctor and found that the left front tire was flat. Luckily, I had purchased the tire repair kit someone on the forum had recommended. It's a safety seal tire repair kit. Tire Plug Kits, Fix Flat Tire, Tire Repair Tools | Safety Seal I had heard that the slime and it comes with the car will ruin the tire. Is this true? The kit consists of two T tools, one of which you used to insert the tire patch. All good so far. Unfortunately the screw was on the inside of the tread toward the center of the car. It was at least an inch and a half out from the sidewall. But there was no way I could get enough leverage to push the patch through the hole. I managed to get the corkscrew tool through, which is used to spread the metal bands in the tire, but I couldn't get enough leverage to get the patch in.


I called AAA, and the guy was diligent enough to try and get the patch in. Ultimately we had to jack up the car and remove the tire to get enough leverage to push a patch through. I drove back across the city and it seems to be holding fine, but I certainly haven't even been on the freeway. Here's what I learned:


1. I need a wrench to remove the lugnuts.


2. I need a small jack to keep in the car.


3. I need to monitor the tire. The AAA guy said this is exactly what they use in the tire store. Of course, the AAA guy is probably making minimum-wage. Although I gave him a $20

any suggestions for a special socket for the Lugnuts, and a small Jack to keep in the car? Thanks
 
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#2 ·
Why not just get the car towed to the dealer? You know you get Porsche road side assistance for the duration of the warranty and shouldn't need AAA.

My understanding is the recommended thing to do immediately stop driving with a damaged/punctured tire (to prevent more damage), tow it to the dealer, and have them repair the tire. Slime is last resort...I recall reading it doesn't really work too.

I have tried a tire patch kit on another car. Ended up messing up a tire and having to buy a new set of 4. Now I just dont fool with it.

You'd need a decent size jack (usually kind of big and heavy to haul around...I wouldn't recommend those tiny portable ones), pin to temp hold the wheel before the first bolt, and a big long wrench capable of 120 lb.
 
#3 · (Edited)
I was done in an hour. If I could have gotten the tire patch in myself, it would have been a 1/2 hour. The dealer would have been two hours and by the time I got there their service would have been closed.

I dont think that that the tire was driven long with the screw since I didn't get a warning that I was losing air. I think I picked up the screw just before I parked. The head of the screw wasn't too chewed up.

I hope I haven't messed up the tire though.
 
#4 ·
First, the slime ruins the sensor, not the tire... although the tire has to be thoroughly cleaned after using it, and tire techs DO NOT like that:). Second, the best tire repair plugs are Stop'nGo, or similar. Anything like the link above dries out quickly, and you're stranded. Plus they're not that effective at all. The Stop'nGo is a rubber mushroom that lasts for years. Carrying a jack is an issue with our cars, and with 118 lb/ft of torque, you need a big a$$ breaker bar. Even with a telescopic one like Gorilla, you need a good back and good strength. I'm not going to do that on this car since there's no specific storage space for the jack. You could always carry the Gorilla wrench under the seat, but a jack large enough might not fit without severely restricting seat movement. And we don't have room to spare on our cars. He he. What I carry is my Stop'nGo kit, a large 3mil industrial trash bag so I can use to lay on my back, and a flashlight to find the puncture. What I need to confirm is the car's compressor can be used just as a compressor. On all my other cars, the tire valve is on the damn slime, so compressor is useless without it. I'll leave it in the car as a second option, but if you use it, it'd be an extra $200 or so for a new sensor, on top of anything else. And if it's hot, don't plan on that crap lasting more than a few miles. I personally tested the Stop'nGo plug for 300 miles at up to 80 mph, with TPMS, of course. But the first one failed quickly due to not ramming enough the hole, and the steel belts cutting the mushroom's head. I did that the second time, and it held up in triple-digit temperatures at up to 80 mph when needed. That's the only time I've ever used it, but on that M3 V8 I had a jack kit, so removed the tire and didn't even get dirty. But the kit was over 5 years old, and the 2nd plug worked like a charm. I carry one of those on my motorcycle, and on my other cars. Prefer that to a crappy spare that is not monitored by TPMS. Hope this helps.
 
#9 ·
Carrying a jack is an issue with our cars, and with 118 lb/ft of torque, you need a big a$$ breaker bar. Even with a telescopic one like Gorilla, you need a good back and good strength.
LOL...118 lb/ft is a piece of cake. My centrelock wheels need 444 lb/ft, which DOES require a big-a** bar and an equally monstrous torque wrench. I have the telescoping Porsche bar, and a 3/4" 3-piece TQ wrench from Precision Instruments, both of which fit nicely in the frunk when I take the 911 on road trips. I usually don't carrying a jack, but will take along a lightweight, low-profile one in the frunk if I'm on a longer road trip that will see me away from civilization. I also carry my trusty, dented hockey puck in the glovebox and a set of tire patch plugs.

Lots of folks complain about the centrelocks, but having changed wheels for three winters from summer to winter (and back), repaired a rear wheel puncture, replaced all 4 brake wear sensors, and had wheels off to clean messy road tar out of the fender wells, the process is no longer daunting. Even at age 60 and only standing 5' 6" I can break and torque the wheels myself with no problem (some strength is definitely required), however I need someone on the brake pedal to do the fronts. My wife has never complained about doing it.
 
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#5 ·
Those cheesy brown sticky rubberized rope type plugs that you poke into the hole in a tire's tread, work just fine. Although I don't recommend doing what I did, I have tested a drive tire with SIX of those things in it, at speeds of up to 190 mph, and they worked just fine- the tire wore out before they did.
 
#6 ·
It was smart of the OP to not slime his TPS sensor, and like him, I would have attempted to avoid the down time and risk of damage from towing. Plugging a tire on the side of the road is no biggie- he just had an awkward position.
 
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#29 · (Edited)
I purchased an inexpensive scissor jack and lug nut wrench from ebay
Hey, could you provide more details? What specific Porsche vehicle did it belong to?

My tool kit... 1) used Porsche scissor jack
Same question as above for you:). Your kit is exactly what I like to carry. All my other sports cars except the Corvettes had space for the jack, which was great. On the Vette I placed it behind the seat without obstruction. Seems like the Porsche jack would fit there, but would have to wait until I get it. The jack kit I carried on the Corvettes was from BMW, but the Vette happen to have the same adapters. And it came in a perfectly sized strong bag, and included the chock, gloves, and even a torque wrench set to 100 lb/ft. I carry a Leatherman Wave multi-tool on this car that has great pliers and blades. Will do this trip without the jack and wrench, but hope to have it next time. The flat kit and compressor is enough, but you can take a loooong time trying to locate the freaking hole, especially on an X73 car. And if it's on the inside of a front tire, it'd be a nightmare to reach with the tire flat. The ramming requires strength initially, and being that deep might not be easy.

LOL...118 lb/ft is a piece of cake. My centrelock wheels need 444 lb/ft.
I've done those, and it's quite a bit easier man; at least with the Porsche tool. My brother hurt his back removing a lugnut from my Vette (100 lb/ft) with a regular lugnut wrench, and he's quite strong. So not 'piece of cake'. I'm 54, and in great shape but not as burly as my brother; you have to be careful with the back, especially if not that young anymore:). I wouldn't attempt removing a lugbolt from a Porsche except with a Gorilla-type telescopic wrench, but to each his own.

Yes it can be used as a regular compressor. Its got the tire valve connector on the hose.
I got under there and checked that for myself after I posted, but thanks for mentioning this for others.
Hey, don't know which Stop'nGo video you're talking about, but all you have to do is ram the hole and 'inject' the plug. The assembly of the tool is absolutely fool-proof. I never saw any video, and when you have the pieces in front of you, it's pretty obvious how to use it. Don't worry about that. If you get it, take it out and you'd assemble it in a minute. Plus there're specific instructions inside, so no worries. Just remember to ram the hole VERY well, and you'd succeed the first time. Problem with any other kind of plug, at least here in ultra hot TX, is they dry out over time (as well as any cement). And finding out you have a dried-out plug system in the middle of nowhere wouldn't be fun. Seems like those rope things work well, but a mushroom with a large head, once inside the tire, seems like a more secure way to hold in place. Just a satisfied customer here who used it after 7 years.
 
#8 ·
My tool kit...

1) used Porsche scissor jack... if you have to remove the wheel
2) tire plug kit
3) pliers or multi-function tool... for pulling embedded objects
4) Gorilla lug wrench with 19mm or 3/4" socket... if you have to remove the wheel

...optional...

5) wheel chock... else set the parking brakes or put the transmission in gear
6) 3/4" board... for jack stability
7) wheel hanger... if you have to remove the wheel
8) work gloves
9) bag... to fit everything

#2 and #3 are the minimum if you can plug the tire without removing the wheel which I have done during a cross-country road trip.

Font Logo Asphalt
Fashion accessory Beige
Bag Asphalt
 
#16 ·
Nice toolkit! what is the brand of the scissor jack?

My tool kit...

1) used Porsche scissor jack... if you have to remove the wheel
2) tire plug kit
3) pliers or multi-function tool... for pulling embedded objects
4) Gorilla lug wrench with 19mm or 3/4" socket... if you have to remove the wheel

...optional...

5) wheel chock... else set the parking brakes or put the transmission in gear
6) 3/4" board... for jack stability
7) wheel hanger... if you have to remove the wheel
8) work gloves
9) bag... to fit everything

#2 and #3 are the minimum if you can plug the tire without removing the wheel which I have done during a cross-country road trip.

View attachment 86050 View attachment 86058 View attachment 86066
 
#10 ·
"LOL...118 lb/ft is a piece of cake." I guess I better check my lugnut torque. I think the air guns only go to about 95 pounds as a standard setting.

I put a flex head wrench with a 3/4" socket in the trunk. I have a net on the rear wall that I keep a fold up walking stick in. The flex head will fit right in there fine. The gorilla wrench goes to 21", so I might pick up one of them. Amazon has a well-rated scissor jack for $20 but it doesn't look anywhere near as good as the Porsche jack.

Ebay it is.
 
#12 ·
I just checked the torque and it seemed pretty close to 118".
 
#13 ·
Thanks for starting this thread. I take some long road trips and I would like to add a scissor jack to my travel tools. The 981 Boxster is my first Porsche; does anyone know if the older OEM jacks will fit the holes in the jacking points. It looks like an oval protrusion on the top of the jack fits an oval in the car. Has the oval hole been the same for all the Boxsters? I was looking on eBay and found a used Porsche jack I I considered buying; when I asked the seller if it would fit the 981 Boxster, he said it would not fit.
 
#15 ·
#61 ·
I called the local used Porsche parts place (EASY) and he said they were out of them. I expressed surprise, and that didn't every older wrecked Porsche have a jack? Apparently, they come from the 944s and he sells all of them to 356 owners. They go for $100. I think I'll get this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PX8BC2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I got the jack and it fits nicely with the flex bar in the net that I put in the trunk.
 

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#19 ·
I just lost a tyre last week too....

I learnt how to:
1. look for the source of the leak before deciding what to do next
(drive fwd/rev with the door open providing you have a safe space to do so)
2. the response time for my flatbed service to arrive
3. the current market price for PSS.

I must have jinxed it by thinking how often does it happen! :beer:
 
#20 ·
I'd be inclined to skip the jack and lug wrench, and just run with a cheap sticky rope tire plug kit and the OEM compressor.

I just have a really hard time seeing how I wouldn't be able to install a tire plug on the ground on this vehicle- I've been able to do it with every other vehicle I've ever owned...
 
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#21 ·
That's what I am doing, hopefully doesn't come back to bit me in the a$$
 
#26 ·
Everybody seems so worked up over lack of a spare. Other than my Jeep, I haven't driven a car with a spare since 2008.
Come to think of it, my 3/4 ton Suburban trail rig carried TWO full-sized 35" spare tires...inside. :)
 
#23 ·
I'm not really worked up. I had prepared for a flat by getting a plug kit and was frustrated that I couldn't make it work. I'm just trying to be prepared
 
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#27 ·
I keep a scissors jack as well as a spacesaver (Boxster) tire in the frunk. My breaker bar is just that, a 1/2" breaker bar with a 19mm lug nut socket with a plastic cover designed to protect the wheel. I always carry tools so that's a given, and I have one of the rope type tire plugging kits as well(no, I don't wear a belt and suspenders, but I'm an Eagle Scout and take the motto to heart) If I ever take a trip where I need the extra space the tire takes, I'll leave it behind and depend on the plug kit, although I am going to look into the Stop 'n Go one. I also have a set of tyvek type coveralls and several big garbage bags. Yep, a first aid kit too in case I skin my knuckles changing the tire.
 
#28 ·
Wow. I find a gun to take up a lot less space than all that stuff, and it also addresses the largest concerns that one incurs while stranded on the side of the road for an indeterminate period of time while dealing with a flat tire.
 
#32 ·
The tire I put six of those things into, was a DOT legal racing tire, and I tested it up to 190 mph (the top of 5th gear).
 
#33 ·
I like the idea of a small scissors jack that could aid in insuring patchability, but has anyone actually had occasion to use one of those jacks. My concern is how low a profile are those 2nd hand jacks designed for different models. If the jack height including the pin is not less 4 3/4", it won't fit under my X73 CS. The tire being flat will just exacerbate that situation even further. You can extrapolate that number to roughly 5 1/8" for a PASM equipped car, and 5 1/2" for a base suspension.

I would like to hear how tall the jacks are from any of you guys that have them. Probably a non-issue, but I'd like to know before hunting one down, and it is not evident to me from the picture provided of one.
 
#34 ·
Fantastic kit list. Suggest you add one large plastic trash bag. Use this to place on ground while removing/replacing tire to keep your clothes clean. In my 2008 CS had 2 flat tires. Some luck. Fixed both with a kit, just as you described. So far, the kit is happy riding along in my 14 CS.
 
#37 ·
Bring a 10" long section of 2x4 to drive the flat tire up onto. The you'll be able to get your jack under the car.
 
#38 ·
I'll be doing a plug/repair this weekend. Actually, I think there's two screws. Tire is shot and just needs to last a few more weeks til the P Zeros come in (nationwide back order).

I've never seen this kit before: Dynaplug® Online Store | Dynaplug® Ultralite Xtreme - Tubeless Tire Repair Kit. Looks pretty trick for smaller diameter punctures, states to use two plugs for larger holes. I can see this being much easier to insert than the other types of kits. I wonder if that brass tip ever breaks-off inside the tire. That wouldn't be good.

Sorry if I broke any forum rules by posting that link. I'm no way affiliated with that company.
 
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#39 ·
No experience with this style of plug so can't say.

I've never found inserting the rope plugs difficult if the reaming step for hole prep was completed properly. That can be a challenge if the puncture is small. Not sure I at least could do it at arms length from beside the car.

One thing I've found is that if the bit causing the puncture is still in the tire, nail, screw, whatever, is that the tire will still usually hold air pretty well if pumped back up. Well enough anyway to get to a location to do the repair properly and safely. Found this to be true even when a quarter inch bolt center punched a tire with all of a thousand miles on it. Took two plugs but held air fine for another 3 yrs when I traded the car off on something newer.

Where this doesn't work is when something cuts the tire. Then plugs, goo, Slime etc don't work. Takes a spare and a new tire. I'm sure there are exceptions both ways. For me the end of a ball point pen was it. Pesky thing was hollow and let the air out nicely. Easily repaired though.
 
#40 ·
Yup, need to really ream and dig some extra rubber out on those smaller punctures. I have what appears to be a thin industrial staple stuck in the middle of a center groove. Location of it makes it an easier fix but I'll need to do some exfoliating for sure.
 
#47 ·
German cars (like ours, old VWs, etc.) have the nasty habit of using bolts to attach wheels to the hubs, rather than the more sensible American and Japanese nuts (wherein there are permanent threaded shafts coming out of the wheel hub so that you only need nuts to attach the wheel--not bolts). Thus with our cars, if you have a bad back a "wheel hanger" becomes necessary. That's a shaft that threads into the hub and allows you to hang the wheel while trying to attach the other bolts. When the other bolts are attached, you remove the wheel hanger and insert the final bolt.

QUESTION: What's the right wheel hanger for a 981 and where do you get it? Thanks in advance for a reply.
 
#49 ·
Or you can eliminate that nonsense by switching to studs/nuts. I did this on my 987 CS and swapped them to the new CGTS as soon as I traded. Several suppliers have them, both stock length studs and longer ones for track use. If you can change a tire, you can install the studs, the instructions are on a couple of Cayman forums. I just pulled off my wheels to give them a good cleaning and waxing Thursday evening, none of this backbreaking holding the wheel/tire up and trying to get the bolts started. This is one case where the Europeans are definitely behind in car design/mfg. (there are others....)
 
#50 ·
Of course this works. Thanks for mentioning this alternative. That said . . .

Using a wheel hanger on the uncommon occasion in which you need to remove & replace a wheel is, however, a less complicated and less costly way to go and it achieves the same end: mounting a wheel without killing yourself. Indeed, it can be argued that the wheel hanger has an advantage over studs, given that when only one stud is sticking out--the wheel hanger itself--it's a bit easier to mount a wheel than when you have to fiddle with lining up all the studs. This may only be an issue for those of us with really bad backs.
 
#52 ·
I'm not advocating it. I'm just offering my experience.
 
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