Do you have any ECU tuning? If so that can affect those values, but otherwise, they ECU simply hasn't processed the numbers it has received from the sensors yet, so I'd drive it around more until it does...
I have an 06 CS with IDP Intake Plenum, GT3 throttle body and Remus Exhaust. I went to have my emissions tested today and I failed
The test is done through the OBD only in Illinois.
The report stated:
Secondary Air System - (Not ready)
Catalytic Coverter Eff. - (Not Ready)
Evaporative Control System - (Not ready)
Oxygen Sensor - (Not ready)
Comprehensive Component - (Ready)
Fuel System Performance - (Ready)
Heated Oxygen Sensor - (Ready)
Engine Misfire - (Ready)
The 4 items listed as (Not ready) is why I failed, I have no CEL and no diagnostic codes were stored.
Also I put a new battery in recently and have only driven the car a few miles since, are the not ready codes something that re-set themselves?
The guy that tested it told me the computer needs to be "re-set" but before I go to the shop I'm wondering if anyone has had similar problems?
Last edited by Marktini; 11-04-2010 at 06:51 PM.
2006 CaymanS, 2011 1M
After you replace the battery (or even just disconnect it without supplying the car backup 12V power) or clear any DTCs, you need to drive the car.
Based on my experience you need to start the engine cold, let it idle a minute or two, then drive the car reasonably but varied, from city/street stop and go to moderate steady state cruising (40/45mph or so) and some some higher speed highway driving.
Allow about 30 miles for this, though if you have an OBDII code reader you can leave it connected to the car's OBDII connector and query the vehicle for its readiness monitor states as you drive and you should see over time the various monitors switch from not ready to ready.
Rockster pretty much hit the nail on the head. Sounds like the car needs to be driven a bit more so the differing systems can analyze what your car is doing and get to their "Ready" status.
Thanks for the replies, I did a little searching and I agree the fact it was only driven a couple of miles since the new battery is the problem. Looks like I'll be driving for fun next week!
2006 CaymanS, 2011 1M
OBD requires that the car be driven 50 -150 miles after the battery has been disconnected. This is to insure that you didn't disconnect the battery just to reset codes, thus allowing time for the codes to be registered again.
06 Guards red Cayman S w/softronics flash & fabspeed exhaust. Kenwood DDX714, Nav, Camera, DVD, Ipod, Nav-tv adapter. Escort 9500ix. Gunmetal lobsters. Aftermarket seat heaters, short shift, Motor lux carbon wing
I'm bumping this thread up from the depths to share a similar problem. I bought an '06 cayman recently and went to the DC DMV to get it inspected (OBD). Came back with evap system and o2 sensor showing not ready. This is a mystery to me because, although the battery was disconnected recently, I've put 220 miles on the car since that time before taking it for the inspection. I thought this would be more than enough.
The car runs fine, no codes, so I'm assuming the sensors all work.
Anyone else have any data points about how long it takes for these sorts of sensors to be ready?
After replacing the dead battery in my father's Mercury Grand Marquis, I remember the dealer telling me it had to be driven in a certain way to restore the memory. They gave me this weird driving pattern to follow -- speeding up, stopping suddenly, going 40 mph for a long stretch without stopping (try doing that on the Long Island Expressway!). All I know is that, after doing so, the car passed its emissions test.
I agree with the above posters. It's not simply the number of miles that's required to get the various systems to repot "ready". It also may include things like cold starts, warm starts, cruising above certain speeds, idling, etc. These are called driving cycles by most of the manufacturers.
My suggestion is to drive the car back and forth to work for a few days. That is likely to hit all phases.
Yes, let the ECU re-establish it's values ie. drive the car for at least an hour and multiple cycles after replacing the battery before an emissions test.
Also, besides having the engine fully warm for the test, don't shut the car off, especially if you have "cat back" modifications.
(which really aren't cat backs, two cats at the mufflers are removed)
The catalyst's efficiency is significantly higher if you leave the car idling while in line.
Even if you're #3, still let it idle, your cleanliness will be better.
Thanks for the follow ups. I've now read about Porsche's driving cycle (and other manufacturers). It's driving me crazy. I now have 500 miles, including city driving, highway miles, and even a track day, on the car and still have 2 sensors showing not ready. I've got a week left on an extension from the DMV. One of my problems is that I live in the city and it's completely impossible for me to do the accelerated drive cycle that I've read about.
I may end up calling local dealers and asking if I can leave the car overnight with them and then have a tech do a drive cycle from cold start up. Damn inconvenience!