Tackling this job tomorrow - if will call parts pickup goes according to plan.
Thanks for the great info, I thought I'd share my parts shopping experience:
Amazon Redline CV2 cartridge $12 (since it's free shipping when bundled with my Xmas shopping)
Harbor Freight Grease Gun $16
O'Reilly Performance Tool W83013 $10
Pelican Parts Clamps
911-332-257-00-M395CV Boot Clamp, 73mm (sold per each),
996-332-957-00-M395 70.8 - 74 mm928-332-257-01-M395Axle Boot Clamp (34 mm)
996-332-257-00-M395 39.3 - 42.5 mmI believe the car takes a 67mm and 43mm, but I ordered other sized clamps from Pelican to be safe. At $1 for one, it's cheap insurance to order everything. Pelican does not have a 67mm clamp. So if the 70mm+ clamps are too large - I also ordered a smooth band clamp (designed not to cut into hose materials) from McMaster-Carr until I locate a proper crimp clamp. Fallback is to mail order the Oetiker CV68.
2"-2 3/4" (50-70mm) 3/8" band PN: 5574K19 $12 for pack of 10
Here are my highlights of doing the outer boot:
- I used a dremel tool to cut off the clamps. Even the tricky one. This was easy and went fast. Be careful not to damage the boot. Also I covered the boot when operating the dremel. For the tricky one, I simply grinded off the retaining studs and use a 90deg plier to pull it off.
- Once the leak develops, it will leak constantly. In 4,000 miles (2.5 months) my wheel got coated in grease.
- The large clamp on the boot was loose. I could spin it easily by hand. This should be an easy test to perform. And you can do this easily without jacking the car up. This should be checked at every oil change. Catch it early, and you can probably just replace a clamp.
- The grease gun works!! Absolutely use this. It looked like it would be time consuming and messy to mash in grease by hand otherwise.
- The large clamp is smaller than the 70mm (stamped 67) I had to resort to using a smooth band clamp to make sure it was tight - until I source a proper clamp. The worm gear bulges the clamp channel lip. And I oriented it to contact the outer joint. Thus avoiding mashing the boot itself.
- The small clamp is a close fit. Not happy with it. Might look for something snugger than 43mm.
- Put shifter in neutral and take off the parking brake once jacked up. You can spin the axle easily by the rotor or the axle shaft itself.
- It took me about 2 hours to do the job while taking pictures. Not very difficult except for trying to put the boot back on the joint.
More pics in next post
Last edited by Jeff_07S; 12-13-2013 at 06:25 PM.
A few more pictures
Today I decided to check on the RH side inner CV boot which had a small leak. It turned into a major leak. *sigh* Grease was splashed all over.
The large clamp is indeed the funny 67 stamped Oetiker clamp again (like the outer)
To get access, you'll have to remove the tray. I didn't feel like tackling this, since I might as well replace the transmission oil at the same time. So there was enough room to slip on a smooth band worm gear clamp over the Oetiker.
Worked like a charm! Snugged up the loose clamp until I get the 68mm clamps and gear oil.
These 67 clamps suck. Boot was spinning on the joint same as the outer joint. Recommend keeping tabs on your 67 clamps.
Just wanted to thank KS-CS for all his information. Today, I did the inner CV boot. It's exactly the same procedure as the outer but you need to remove the pan to get enough room to work on the boot.
I ordered the CV68 and the CV40 clamps from Bel Metric. These worked like a charm. I have no idea why the Porsche listings for this are all wrong. They are too large. Don't bother ordering the Porsche clamps.
I was tempted to replace the clamps on the non leaking boots. But I got tired and wanted to shower. I'll wait til they leak.
My CS has started the CV boot leak also. It has 62k with some track use. I talked to a tech at my local dealer who said he is seeing this quite a bit on Cayman/Boxter's now that they are racking up miles. He stated that the boot itself stretches and that a clamp change is not a long term fix as the grease will escape the old, stretched boot. For those of you that have replaced grease/clamps only: How has the fix worked out? I am planning to put grease/new clamps on but wonder just how much time I am buying?
I replaced one large clamp over a year ago and its still fine. Another started leaking last month so I just replaced the other three. Buy the correct size from Belmetric !!! The ones I took off the car are marked 67 not 70 or 73. The bigger ones will not seal properly. Ask me how I know.
I disagree with your tech. The 67 style clamps don't provide enough pressure. You should go back and reread my recent posts and see pictures. As long as you avoid losing too much grease... Stop driving it. All you need to do is replace a clamp. See my advice above about catching the loose clamp early.
Thanks for the quick responses. Belmetric clamps are on order! I will replace the outers and wait to do the inners when I change my trans fluid again. Fingers will be crossed hoping for no more leaks.
So during my clutch replacement, I spotted my third loose clamp out of the four. Not leaking grease, but I could move the boot with little hand effort. I verified you can remove either style of clamps with a flat head / chisel and a few strikes on the tool with a hammer. So no need to get dangerous with a cutting wheel.
For the leaky clamps, you just want to bend the retaining nubs away to release the clamp.
For the replacement adjustable Oetiker crimp style, you want to bend the adjustment nub up - it locks the clamp into a fixed circumference. Then use pliers on the clamp end and pry it up and off that nub.
So any guesses when my final (the fourth) clamp will loosen up?
Last edited by Jeff_07S; 11-06-2014 at 07:21 PM.
I've recently begun acquiring "old car" experience - a 1987 928. I just replaced all the CV boots. The outers were torn, one perhaps for a few years, the other perhaps for a decade. Not many miles, though, and not much in bad weather or at all in the winter. No track time, no hot brakes. Some observations that may or may not be relevant to this thread:
It's an unpleasant job since a lot of grease was still in the joints (!), which must be cleaned out. For the inner, non-torn joints, it was quite amazing how little the grease had moved - there was no grease on the boots much beyond where it was applied to the joint. On the other hand, the escaping grease from the torn boots truly makes a mess.
The joints were OK despite whatever crap had been entering them through the torn boots. This is not unusual, from what I've read - they are surprisingly resilient.
Put grease only in the joint, fill the whole boot, or something in between? I'm sure there are strong opinions, but no consensus. Filling them makes them leak, some say. I got the sense the grease doesn't migrate far, and the CV joints are not delicate, so I only filled the joint area (balls and "races"). Track use is a different situation, I'm not considering that.
2009 Cayman S PDK
1987 928 S4
1995 Saab 900T convertible, F150, Prius, Smartcar, G650GS moto
2006 CS larger CV clamp calls for part number 99633295700 which is a 74 mm clamp.
Yet it's too big. Turns out that he removed clamp is a 70 mm. Now it's Saturday and my car is in the air until I get the correct size.