Just want to mention LSD's as well, but obviously pricey.
What are peoples thoughts on just replacing the cracked dust boot versus doing a rebuild? My rear dust boots are cracked to hell but my braking performance is fine i.e. the car doesn't pull at all from side to side and my rear pad wear is low and consistant.
What color are your caliupers? Post a picutre -
Brown/Purple... I know the "best" option is to do a rebuild but the level of effort is much higher. Just trying to weigh my options.
Come everyone, when is someone going to order 981 rear brake ducts and see if they'll fit the 987?
I also heard that Park Place in Dallas was working on an aftermarket solution for 987 rear brake ducts, and I saw one of their cars with a prototype in place last spring. IIRC, they were modified 997 (from that model, not necessarily part number), heavily modified, and with heat shielding as the were right next to the exhaust pipes and they said they could have problems with the duct melting!
Here's a question: the '12 manual says PSM will turn back on if one of the front wheels is using ABS (SC off) or two front wheels (SC on), but it doesn't mention when it turns back off--when does it turn back off? I know that it does turn back off, as at Barber a few weekends ago I managed to get the R to oversteer with PSM off even though I get deep into the ABS on a turn or two at that track maybe 10 or so seconds before the oversteer point. There was no sign of a PSM intervention which I've seen previously with PSM on-- this usually occurs coming out of a turn under power in reduced traction conditions as I give it too much throttle.
Another question: With PSM off, I got the blinking lit for TC in action, but I've never seen the PSM light (blinking or not) coming out of the same turn with PSM on--how do we know if TC is kicking in with PSM on?
Anyone annoyed with the brake pedal feed back? On more than one occasion I could only tell I was into the ABS from the tire noise--no feeling in the pedal at all. Tire noise does work sometimes, but not at higher speeds when its just too loud.
Off topic, my car shimmy's a lot under heavy braking, and neither me nor anyone else who's been the in the car is entirely sure why. Current guesses are slick track, heavy ABS braking, or a combination of the two.
That being said, a PSDS instructor I rode with had the car moving around under braking as well, but he was a WHOLE lot better at anticipating and correcting the shimmy before it affected the car.
Maybe you should?? Just sayin'.
This is due to LSD, or lack thereof. If your R has stock LSD, it's either gone or is not effective enough. Stock 987 LSDs are known to be crappy. GT3's are better but not by that much. Get Guard LSD and it'll fix your squirreling.
Just saw this thread. I had the same rear brake over heating issues. The cause seemed to be rear wheel spin in the corners. The standard Cayman R LSD does not work to prevent wheel spin. I had the LSD rebuilt to lock up and have solved most of the problem. Let me know if anyone wants more details.
2)What they're seeing was described to me as unusual wear. But they admittedly typically work on near-zero mile cars. So my diff might be normal. But they were surprised by what they saw.
My car has <11k miles and 11 DE days on it.