Planet 9

RobMason · #21 09-19-2009, 02:59 PM

For those who want to protect the key, no rattles, prevent (or diminish) inadvertant hood/door/trunk openings, go to your BMW dealer and get part no. 51217006821. This was the key fob used for the BMW E46 M3 keys. Price through Tischer BMW $13.86 http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=214672 Plug in the part no.

Perfect for the Porsche key. Last 3 pics by mpollard

rubber_ducky · #22 09-22-2009, 01:28 PM

I too am surprised that porsche doesn't have a more elegant solution. I wonder what the panamera key looks like given it has an option for "sit and drive" (or whatever it's called). I'd like to see something along the lines of my 07 bmw 3 series key.

Capercat · #23 09-22-2009, 04:52 PM

Originally Posted by rubber_ducky

I wonder what the panamera key looks like given it has an option for "sit and drive"

The Panamera isn't a traditional key, but rather an infrared sensor in the shape of the Panamera! Similar to the AMG C63 keys in technology.

I prefer the Cayman traditional style.

**lithium1330** · #24 09-22-2009, 06:52 PM

Originally Posted by Capercat

The Panamera isn't a traditional key, but rather an infrared sensor in the shape of the Panamera! Similar to the AMG C63 keys in technology.

I prefer the Cayman traditional style.

Wow, how about that ... i bet this key spent more time in wind tunnel testing than most cars on the market today.

notquitefob · #25 11-02-2009, 04:34 PM

a way to save a pretty penny would be to swap the "guts" of the old key with the new key so you don't have to pay the dealer for reprogramming.

I recently broke the key ring on my key#1 and am contemplating spending the $130 to replace it with the new gen2 key from suncoast.

I've seen "cut" keys on ebay for $85.. but makes you wonder where those keys came from...

Capercat · #26 11-02-2009, 06:01 PM

Correct, simply by replacing the guts is all that's needed, a nice upgrade.

RV4pilot · #27 11-12-2009, 08:17 PM

How exactly would you change out the "guts"? I popped my key in half, and the circuit board over the 3 buttons would easily switch to the new head. How would you get the blade out? Does the little spring hold in the blade? On the side with the battery, which parts of the guts have to go into the new head? There must be a little latch holding the parts in.

notquitefob · #28 11-13-2009, 02:17 AM

haven't taken apart my cayman keys yet, but it was pretty straight forward with the 996TT...

you know what.. let me try it right now. brb.

notquitefob · #29 11-13-2009, 02:35 AM

okay, just took a look at mine. you pop the two halves apart, swap over the buttons and maybe the copper contacts too if the new key head doesn't have it.

there's a little spring loaded latch that needs to get popped out. then you take a plier and grip on the key blade itself and pull straight outward. it should pop right now.

i know there's also a "transcoder" somewhere that lets you start the engine. I haven't figured out where that piece is yet.

RV4pilot · #30 11-13-2009, 10:25 AM

Originally Posted by notquitefob

okay, just took a look at mine. you pop the two halves apart, swap over the buttons and maybe the copper contacts too if the new key head doesn't have it.

there's a little spring loaded latch that needs to get popped out. then you take a plier and grip on the key blade itself and pull straight outward. it should pop right now.

i know there's also a "transcoder" somewhere that lets you start the engine. I haven't figured out where that piece is yet.

That's the part I am not finding, the transcoder part. Moved the blade over okay.

DH

wanderer65 · #31 11-13-2009, 11:18 PM

Both keys for my 2010 CS are identical and come with the chrome finish.