Planet 9

wpmjr · #1 05-28-2009, 08:29 PM

I finally took the plunge and started doing my own race alignments. Here are a few pics of the setup I came up with. The cost was about $250 for harbor freight plates, steel tubing, 60# fishing line, 2x4x12's, all thread rods, and digital level meter.

**His987CS** · #2 05-29-2009, 05:12 AM

Great Pics! Any chance of an artical on doing the actual alignment?

wpmjr · #3 05-29-2009, 06:40 AM

Thanks. Yeah, I guess I should. There are definitely some learning-curve short cuts I could offer, having done it the loong way the first time. I'll take some pics of the adjustment points etc.

wpmjr · #4 05-29-2009, 09:39 PM

Ooh man, my alignment is perfecto. If you've never had a really good one (which the computerized units don't give) you are missing out. It can change the whole feel of the car.

**KS-CS** · #5 05-30-2009, 08:48 PM

Originally Posted by wpmjr

Ooh man, my alignment is perfecto. If you've never had a really good one (which the computerized units don't give) you are missing out. It can change the whole feel of the car.

What are your specs?

**Slatfatf** · #6 06-01-2009, 01:15 AM

Originally Posted by wpmjr

I finally took the plunge and started doing my own race alignments. Here are a few pics of the setup I came up with. The cost was about $250 for harbor freight plates, steel tubing, 60# fishing line, 2x4x12's, all thread rods, and digital level meter.

What! No cooler!!

Walter · #7 06-01-2009, 09:18 AM

Originally Posted by wpmjr

Ooh man, my alignment is perfecto. If you've never had a really good one (which the computerized units don't give)

Computerized machines work fine if you use it right.

My Miata was on the rack and the mechanic said,
"This is as close as I can get it, it's within spec.".

I said, "Can I give a try?".
And I grabbed two 17mm box end wrenches and had all four wheels perfect in less than five minutes.

Also, a good corner weighting job can be just as eye opening as a good alignment.

BillL223 · #8 06-01-2009, 04:38 PM

You can duplicate the OP's setup by using strings held by a couple of jackstands. The key is to keep the strings parellel with the centerline of the car. I have found that, measuring from the center of the hub, that you need to be 3/8" further out from the rear hub then at the front. You can check by measuring the distance between the strings at the front and the back. The distance should be the same. Once the strings are set, you can do toe. Measuring between the sting and the front and rear of the wheel will give you the toe. I'm tracking my car and now am using "O" toe for the front so the measurements between the front and rear side of the wheel should be the same. At the rear I am using 1/32" toe in per side. Camber must be set with a leveling device. I'm running -2.1 degrees front and rear. I've got GT-3 lower control arms in the front to get this. To date, my tire temperatures are telling me this is too much camber for R-888s. Doing another track day 6/3 and will be playing with tire pressures. I will advise results.

**jurnes** · #9 06-02-2009, 12:49 AM

You can get -2.1 camber in the rear w/o changing from stock parts (no 996 Gt3 LCA's)?

BillL223 · #10 06-02-2009, 07:21 AM

Yes, got -2.1 in rear with stock parts. I'm maxed on one side, could go a little further on the other. In my previous post, I should have mentioned that you must set camber first followed by toe. Changing camber changes toe. If you have a level gargae floor, you can get close on camber using a framing square and doing the trig between the top and bottom of the wheel

wpmjr · #11 06-02-2009, 07:51 AM

Originally Posted by BillL223

You can duplicate the OP's setup by using strings held by a couple of jackstands. The key is to keep the strings parellel with the centerline of the car. I have found that, measuring from the center of the hub, that you need to be 3/8" further out from the rear hub then at the front. You can check by measuring the distance between the strings at the front and the back. The distance should be the same. Once the strings are set, you can do toe. Measuring between the sting and the front and rear of the wheel will give you the toe. I'm tracking my car and now am using "O" toe for the front so the measurements between the front and rear side of the wheel should be the same. At the rear I am using 1/32" toe in per side. Camber must be set with a leveling device. I'm running -2.1 degrees front and rear. I've got GT-3 lower control arms in the front to get this. To date, my tire temperatures are telling me this is too much camber for R-888s. Doing another track day 6/3 and will be playing with tire pressures. I will advise results.

Jack stands and a level aren't enough, IMO.

First, just measuring from the hub isn't good enough- the hub changes position as you change camber. So you need to measure between your 'jack stands' or whatever you use both laterally and longitudinally within 1/32" accuracy over ~7 and ~12 feet respectively. Once the strings are square, then you make sure the distance to the front hubs is equal, and the distance to the rear hubs is equal. They won't always be 3/8" different front to rear. Measure many times as you make adjustments and when you are finished.

Second, you really need those turntable / slip plates. Doing without means the the rubber in the tire and the bushings load up like a spring as you make adjustments and when you move the car the settings are all screwed up.

Finally it is also important to ensure the car is level laterally. I wouldn't trust simply calculating the error of a non level floor for camber- the springs are loaded differently, etc.