Planet 9

Tomasz · #1 06-08-2009, 08:23 PM

I have been thinking and experimenting with different power upgrades for the Cayman S over the last 12 months. I actually started with a base Cayman, and upgraded later to the 3.4.

People that look to upgrade their car consider many options, and probably go through the same set of decisions that I went through. I wanted to share my findings here, and please remember this is just my opinion that is based in part on facts, in part on experiences and in part on just analyzing what others have shared.

The first thing that many looking to get more power out of a car need to understand that an engine is a pump, the more air goes in the more gas needs to come out. That pump has bottlenecks in it, and opening them up will free up power. But when the bottlenecks are in parallel, you need to address all of them before any serious power is gained. As you do that you may erroneously attribute power increase to the last bottleneck you eliminated thinking that this specific modification added 20 HP. This maybe wrong, as the last bottleneck you eliminated and power gained was most likely dependent on the modifications you made before.

At this point I will digress and recommend that when modifying a car, a package that has been proven to work well together needs to be considered before one creates their own potentially unproven combination. Yet, doing so maybe quite fun. Secondly, I highly recommend when adding any modifications to work with a shop that is close by and you trust. Often the difference between products from competing vendors is less important than the difference is service and support you will get locally versus over the phone. Imagine that you do something harmless as install a new air filter and 200 miles later get a check engine light. Chances are it’s not related, but think of all the things that will go through your mind. Especially when you ask for help on the forum, and all the worst case scenarios will pop right up.

OK, back to modifications. It’s best to start with an end in mind. And remember that you really only care about the power before you start versus when you end. Which modification added most incremental gains is hard to measure as the last one you do may get too high of an attribution. Here are the “packages” or stages I recommend:

Stage 1 – Software flash, de-snork and exhaust (keeping stock headers). Software flash is almost a must for all cars without Sports Chrono as the remapped throttle and with some vendors like Softronic increased PSM threshold is fantastic. Not to mention increased red-line, and removal of other limits. Also some vendors will allow you the ability to switch back to stock, which maybe important to you. De-snork is an optional step, but it has been proven to help either very little or some. Additionally some will swear by an aftermarket filter such as BMC, K&N and others. Clean filter will make a big difference over a dirty one. Your call on aftermarket vs. OEM. For software flash you have an option of: APR, EPL, EVOMS, GIAC, Powerchip, Revo, Softronic, Unichip… and probably few more. Here are the questions you should ask as you determine which one to pick:

How is it installed, what do you need to do
Cost with installation/shipping
Cost of future upgrades and upgrade policy
How often is the software upgraded
Redline limit
PSM changed?
Throttle mapping changed?
What other features do you get, some offer 100 octane or valet mode, some offer diagnostic software in the package
Power gains should be similar across the board, or at minimum the claims will be. So unless you see proof from an independent party, do not get excited about a 5 HP quoted difference, it’s likely marketing only.

Now to the exhaust. Stock exhaust is the worst bottleneck of the entire system and replacing it will deliver more power. Most exhausts have shown to deliver 10 to 20 HP, and across the ENTIRE RPM range. They will most likely also deliver more noise. There are great articles on exhausts from Gator Bite, including shootout. But in short, most all of them deliver real power gains, but only few offer stock levels of noise. I want to mention few:

Quieter exhausts are similar in construction to the OEM unit, but often equipped with better flowing race cats. These are hard to find in US, but look for SpeedART, NHP, Cargraphic (the one that looks like stock) and TechArt sound box. (Careful with the last one, its sounds great, but does not deliver near as much power increase as the others.) Also, make sure you are getting the quiet often called sport, versus the louder often called race option.
Performance exhausts, are loud to very loud, often lighter than stock, and most if not all eliminate the set of primary cats that are a part of the OEM exhaust.
Valved exhausts are quiet when cruising and loud when at full throttle. They utilize a valve to do this, just like PSE does. Capristo is available and B&B should be close to releasing one. If you can afford it and the more intensive installation – probably best choice. They just give you most flexibility. They do also eliminate the primary cats.

Have fun shopping, test driving a car equipped with the exhaust you plan to buy is highly recommended. I also like to note a personal preference to thermally coat the exhaust or at least the downpipes coming off the headers. Stock unit has heat shielding there, and thermally coating aftermarket exhaust makes sense.

If you perform these three modifications, I would not be surprised if your car ended up making 30 more HP, and 10% more torque across the entire RPM range. IMHO, Stage 1 is the best bang for the buck.

Stage 1+ - Adding headers to the above combination gets you to the Stage 1+. As we are eliminating all bottlenecks, sooner or later you need to address headers. With headers you have two options – with or without cats. This is IMPORTANT to consider, as may influence which exhaust you buy. Cat less headers should only be mated to an exhaust that has cats. Here your options are limited – Porsche PSE, NHP, Cargraphic and maybe SpeedART. (This is the route I chose.)

Stage 2 – Stage 1 plus race or competition intake plenum and software optimized to work with it. So far the options are IPD and Softronic. Softronic is optimized to work with its own hardware, while other software makers have made their programs compatible with IPDs Competition Plenum.

Stage 2+ - Again, this is Stage 2 plus a set of aftermarket headers. But now that you have gone to Stage 2, I believe that aftermarket headers are needed to eliminate that bottleneck. I also thermally coated mine - a very nice finishing touch. I have to mention that recently I have seen the price of catless headers plummet. If they can be truly had for approximately $750, and they perform as well as my expensive ones - this is a no brainer in my book.

Stage 3 – Ask Ken, but the engine needs to come out.

Stage X – That is a new game altogether, forget Stages 1-3, all throwaway, this is turbo time. By far the least expensive per HP, but also opens a new can of worms. Most naysayers will question reliability, though no one will question power gains.

**Casey@TPCRacing** · #2 06-09-2009, 07:08 AM

Stage 1. Turbo

Stage 2. 3.7T

Stage 3. 4.1T

Stage 4. Veyron

**JCay** · #3 06-09-2009, 09:07 AM

Beautifully crafted post. Sticky worthy IMO.

Add aftermarket air-filter in there somewhere. It goes best with the desnork, I believe.

Tomasz · #4 06-09-2009, 08:05 PM

Thanks, and agreed on the filter comment. Added.

echoboy · #5 06-09-2009, 08:59 PM

Very nice summary indeed! Should become a must read for newbies.

will even forgive the spelling mistakes

chas365 · #6 06-09-2009, 09:20 PM

Originally Posted by Casey@TPC-Tischer

Stage 1. Turbo

Stage 2. 3.7T

Stage 3. 4.1T

Stage 4. Veyron

+1

peter f cummiskey · #7 06-09-2009, 09:36 PM

Originally Posted by Tomasz

I have been thinking and experimenting with different power upgrades for the Cayman S over the last 12 months. I actually started with a base Cayman, and upgraded later to the 3.4.

People that look to upgrade their car consider many options, and probably go through the same set of decisions that I went through. I wanted to share my findings here, and please remember this is just my opinion that is based in part on facts, in part on experiences and in part on just analyzing what others have shared.

The first thing that many looking to get more power out of a car need to understand that an engine is a pump, the more air goes in the more gas needs to come out. That pump has bottlenecks in it, and opening them up will free up power. But when the bottlenecks are in parallel, you need to address all of them before any serious power is gained. As you do that you may erroneously attribute power increase to the last bottleneck you eliminated thinking that this specific modification added 20 HP. This maybe wrong, as the last bottleneck you eliminated and power gained was most likely dependent on the modifications you made before.

At this point I will digress and recommend that when modifying a car, a package that has been proven to work well together needs to be considered before one creates their own potentially unproven combination. Yet, doing so maybe quite fun. Secondly, I highly recommend when adding any modifications to work with a shop that is close by and you trust. Often the difference between products from competing vendors is less important than the difference is service and support you will get locally versus over the phone. Imagine that you do something harmless as install a new air filter and 200 miles later get a check engine light. Chances are it’s not related, but think of all the things that will go through your mind. Especially when you ask for help on the forum, and all the worst case scenarios will pop right up.

OK, back to modifications. It’s best to start with an end in mind. And remember that you really only care about the power before you start versus when you end. Which modification added most incremental gains is hard to measure as the last one you do may get too high of an attribution. Here are the “packages” or stages I recommend:

Stage 1 – Software flash, de-snork and exhaust (keeping stock headers). Software flash is almost a must for all cars without Sports Chrono as the remapped throttle and with some vendors like Softronic increased PSM threshold is fantastic. Not to mention increased red-line, and removal of other limits. Also some vendors will allow you the ability to switch back to stock, which maybe important to you. De-snork is an optional step, but it has been proven to help either very little or some. Additionally some will swear by an aftermarket filter such as BMC, K&N and others. Clean filter will make a big difference over a dirty one. Your call on aftermarket vs. OEM. For software flash you have an option of: APR, EPL, EVOMS, GIAC, Powerchip, Revo, Softronic, Unichip… and probably few more. Here are the questions you should ask as you determine which one to pick:

How is it installed, what do you need to do
Cost with installation/shipping
Cost of future upgrades and upgrade policy
How often is the software upgraded
Redline limit
PSM changed?
Throttle mapping changed?
What other features do you get, some offer 100 octane or valet mode, some offer diagnostic software in the package
Power gains should be similar across the board, or at minimum the claims will be. So unless you see proof from an independent party, do not get excited about a 5 HP quoted difference, it’s likely marketing only.

Now to the exhaust. Stock exhaust is the worst bottleneck of the entire system and replacing it will deliver more power. Most exhausts have shown to deliver 10 to 20 HP, and across the ENTIRE RPM range. They will most likely also deliver more noise. There are great articles on exhausts from Gator Bite, including shootout. But in short, most all of them deliver real power gains, but only few offer stock levels of noise. I want to mention few:

Quieter exhausts are similar in construction to the OEM unit, but often equipped with better flowing race cats. These are hard to find in US, but look for SpeedART, NHP, Cargraphic (the one that looks like stock) and TechArt sound box. (Careful with the last one, its sounds great, but does not deliver near as much power increase as the others.) Also, make sure you are getting the quiet often called sport, versus the louder often called race option.
Performance exhausts, are loud to very loud, often lighter than stock, and most if not all eliminate the set of primary cats that are a part of the OEM exhaust.
Valved exhausts are quiet when cruising and loud when at full throttle. They utilize a valve to do this, just like PSE does. Capristo is available and B&B should be close to releasing one. If you can afford it and the more intensive installation – probably best choice. They just give you most flexibility. They do also eliminate the primary cats.

Have fun shopping, test driving a car equipped with the exhaust you plan to buy is highly recommended. I also like to note a personal preference to thermally coat the exhaust or at least the downpipes coming off the headers. Stock unit has heat shielding there, and thermally coating aftermarket exhaust makes sense.

If you perform these three modifications, I would not be surprised if your car ended up making 30 more HP, and 10% more torque across the entire RPM range. IMHO, Stage 1 is the best bang for the buck.

Stage 1+ - Adding headers to the above combination gets you to the Stage 1+. Considering the cost of aftermarket headers, their value is questionable. But as we are eliminating all bottlenecks, sooner or later you need to address headers. IMHO, if you are not going to Stage 2, then doing headers is superfluous. Also with headers you have two options – with or without cats. This is IMPORTANT to consider, as may influence which exhaust you buy. Cat less headers should only be mated to an exhaust that has cats. Here your options are limited – Porsche PSE, NHP, Cargraphic and maybe SpeedART. (This is the route I chose.)

Stage 2 – Stage 1 plus race or competition intake plenum and software optimized to work with it. So far the options are IPD and Softronic. Softronic is optimized to work with its own hardware, while other software makers have made their programs compatible with IPDs Competition Plenum.

Stage 2+ - Again, this is Stage 2 plus a set of aftermarket headers. But now that you have gone to Stage 2, I believe that aftermarket headers are needed to eliminate that bottleneck. Not any longer superfluous, yet still optional and expensive. But a very nice finishing touch.

Stage 3 – Ask Ken, but the engine needs to come out.

Stage X – That is a new game altogether, forget Stages 1-3, all throwaway, this is turbo time. By far the least expensive per HP, but also opens a new can of worms. Most naysayers will question reliability, though no one will question power gains.

A very accurate assessment without overstating the gains -- nice job...

wpmjr · #8 06-10-2009, 06:54 PM

I'm confused. In an earlier post you touted SRP 4.1 plus Fabspeed catless headers and stock exhaust for about 26 hp (http://www.planetporsche.net/cayman-...ions-dyno.html) That's nearly as much as you now claim can be realized with flash AND exhaust AND plenum. Headers only make the mix as a footnote now. What gives?

Also, but less importantly, NHP (maxspeed) exhaust only claims 5.8 hp for their exhaust, not 10-20.

**prodgers** · #9 06-10-2009, 07:23 PM

will even forgive the spelling mistakes

he actually does pretty good Spelling/Speaking for a guy From Poland .
Great article Tomasz -Shows how much passion you really have for these cars .Big Kudos

oh and thats a red hook beer

casualsurfer · #10 06-10-2009, 07:44 PM

great writeup!

my take: by the time you're done with all the NA mods you're about half way or a little over half way to TPC's turbo kit (depending on the amount of other mods you do), so i'm waiting for the warranty to run out and then putting in that turbo.

**Santa Fe** · #11 06-10-2009, 08:11 PM

Interesting stream of thoughts gleaned from various sources and of course not tested individually so it is a reference for people to begin their research and not a proven "how to". What would be a nice addition is a "why do you want to do this" commentary that weighed the costs against the skills of the driver and the use that they could make of a small incremental increase in hp with a similar list that rated the changes/$/use/skills. That reality would help focus the buyer's choices as much as the optional modifications. (1 second a lap around Buttonwood, 1/10 better zero to 60 measurements and why they are needed for example)

Tomasz · #12 06-11-2009, 10:22 AM

Originally Posted by Santa Fe

...What would be a nice addition is a "why do you want to do this" commentary that weighed the costs against the skills of the driver and the use that they could make of a small incremental increase in hp with a similar list that rated the changes/$/use/skills. That reality would help focus the buyer's choices as much as the optional modifications. (1 second a lap around Buttonwood, 1/10 better zero to 60 measurements and why they are needed for example)

I think it would be just better to say that all of these mods will have minimal impact on cars performance as measured in terms of a lap at the track or 0-60, and some combinations will decrease it.

Although my car is making 25 HP more at the wheels than it did before, G-Timer measurements are still the same.

Further, I will be bold to state majority of people here could increase their car's performance much more and for far less money by attaneding a driving school and lapping days. I will go further, a good driver in a base Cayman will lap an average driver (one of us) in a Cayman S.

So, yes, all performance mods are a waste of money. But, some people just like doing them. It makes them feel special, gives them somethign to do and to read about. Gee, this is not any more stupid than diamonds - overpriced pieces of coal.

So for the purpose of this post forget about a fastest time arround a track. End result is a car that is modified the way you want it to be, and at least a bit faster in a 30 to 80 rolling start in second gear. (Assumes zero skills here.)

wpmjr · #13 06-11-2009, 10:31 AM

Thanks for your thoughtful posts along the tuning line. But please explain the disconnect between the header posts and this one. Do you not trust the dynos you did with catless headers and SRP 4.1 and stock exhaust?

diverdog · #14 06-11-2009, 01:22 PM

If you like to keep up with and pass GT3's on the track the extra 30 hp from exhaust, SRP & underdrive pulley definately make a difference. Of course driver skill, tires & suspension are much more important.

Tomasz · #15 06-11-2009, 03:47 PM

Originally Posted by wpmjr

Thanks for your thoughtful posts along the tuning line. But please explain the disconnect between the header posts and this one. Do you not trust the dynos you did with catless headers and SRP 4.1 and stock exhaust?

I do trust the dyno. I gained 25 RWHP by installing cat-less headers and SRP 4.1. I just do not know if SRP alone would deliver the same gain, or vice versa headers alone delivered 25HP. Or, most likely its the combination of both.

I know where you going... catless headers and stock exhaust. More power, but not much more noise. I like it, I may reword the header comment. ESPECIALLY since the NHP headers are $650!!! FabSpeed is $2,000.

wpmjr · #16 06-11-2009, 04:55 PM

Originally Posted by Tomasz

I know where you going... catless headers and stock exhaust. More power, but not much more noise. I like it, I may reword the header comment. ESPECIALLY since the NHP headers are $650!!! FabSpeed is $2,000.

Exactly .

**Santa Fe** · #17 06-11-2009, 04:57 PM

One thing that people reading your list might gain from is a cost/benefit analysis. Some mods are in the eye of the owner of course but some fall into "does this really make sense" category given our economic times. I have owned a bunch of cars that I have modified (including several Porsches) and a bunch I have not. Knowing what I know now about what you get and how it makes a difference for what you spend would have been helpful back then.

wpmjr · #18 06-11-2009, 07:58 PM

Santa Fe, it reads like you have wisdom you are not bestowing upon us...

**Santa Fe** · #19 06-11-2009, 09:02 PM

Originally Posted by wpmjr

Santa Fe, it reads like you have wisdom you are not bestowing upon us...

There are some $ I wish had back. I could probably buy that GT3 with the interest.

**AJK** · #20 06-12-2009, 02:46 PM

Something like 40 years ago I modifies a Ford V8 using the specified parts from the Ford performance catalogue in the staged sequence recommended and when all was said and done I realized that the Ford engineers actually did know something about building engines for public consumption. The gains were there but the trade offs for everyday use did not justify them. IMHO.

....and just to show you that I have learned nothing, I still read every TPC Turbo post!