Planet 9

Do we have a definitive list for Torque Wench Settings on the site??
I am looking specifically for all the suspension torque settings?

If we don't have a list maybe we should start one !!

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OK I will start (I will add to this post during the next day or so):

Connecting link to rear anti−roll bar:

Tightening torque stage 1: 50 (37ftlb.) Nm . Loosen nuts by 90° and tighten to the specified tightening torque stage 2 (counter); Tightening torque stage 2: 65 (48 ftlb.) Nm

Rear anti-roll bar bearing shells:

Tightening torque: 23 (17 ftlb.) Nm

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Aren't they all set to the standard German spec? Guutentite?

Now if I was watching your parts bin Fort, I would be double checking to see if you had refitted everything as you are always looking for that extra weight saving

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It's not a suspension bit, but the one spec I know off the top of my head is the wheel bolt spec at 96 lb-ft.

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Not Certain about You - But as A 'Foreigner', - {As Well as You..........}

wench   /wɛntʃ/ –noun
1. a country lass or working girl: [The milkmaid was a healthy wench.]
2. Usually Facetious. a girl or young woman.
3. Archaic. a strumpet. –verb (used without object)

strumpet   /ˈstrʌmpɪt/ –noun - a prostitute; harlot.

4. to associate, esp. habitually, with promiscuous women.


I am all for 'Wench Settings'........ (Don't Let the Wife Know....)

'Wrenches' Seem a Bit Tame in Comparison............

(Good Idea for a Reference Listing Though.... I'll Ask My Porsche Trained Chaps, if They Can Help)

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Cheers Karel



'Power is Nothing - Without Control..........'

That's not bad coming from a 'non-Brit'

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Nick -

I Have Worked for many years for US Corporations - I Always Recall a Visit to the HR Department in Boston............ (For a Bo££ocking....)

Following a St. Patrick's Day (Group Visit) to a Traditional Irish Pub - I Commended one of the Young Ladies in our team, as She Presented me with another Irish Stout................ "Many Thanks - Young Serving Wench" (In a Dutch/Irish Accent)

My only understanding of the term, with mixed Dutch/German/English:

wench Etymology: Middle English wenche, short for wenchel child, from Old English wencel; akin to Old High German wankōn to totter, waver and probably to Old High German winchan to stagger — more at wink
Date: 14th century - A young woman : girl b: a female servant

I Was Horrified to learn that the US had So Corrupted Ancient Language - that the term in the USA was - So Terrible............. I Had to refer to the Oxford English Dictionary in My Defence.................

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Cheers Karel



'Power is Nothing - Without Control..........'

The language in the US changes daily, ever try reading a text message from a hip-hop influenced teen-ager? Anyway, this topic is digressing and is in danger of being moved to the off-topic section, although if it stays on-topic it should probably be moved to a tech section anyway...

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Yep, don't disagree, lets move it to the tech section, I just intend to get as much "good" info as possible and make some sort of reference chart.
thanks

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Okay, back to the OT - here's a start (feel free to cut and paste, and add more):

Wheel Lug Bolts 96 ft-lb
Brake Caliper Bolts 63 ft-lb
Oil Pan Plug 37 ft-lb
Oil Filter 19 ft-lb
Seat Rail Bolts 37 ft-lb
Underdrive Pulley 37 ft-lbs + 90 degrees

From Nick, above:

Rear anti-roll bar bearing shells: 17 ft-lb
Connecting link to rear anti−roll bar: Tightening torque stage 1: 50 (37ftlb.) Nm . Loosen nuts by 90° and tighten to the specified tightening torque stage 2 (counter); Tightening torque stage 2: 65 (48 ftlb.) Nm

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Exhaust manifold (headers) to cyl head bolts and manifold to muffler nuts, both 17 ft-lb.

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Les

Not that I expect anyone actually torques them, but brake bleed nipples: 6 - 9 ft/lbs.

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Dan

I now have a full list of front suspension and rear suspension components with all the torque settings....so I'm putting together a list, I will also include any other settings people think are necessary

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What about exhaust hanger bolts?

And... how do I test my torque wrench? It is 6 years old now.

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Tomasz

Apologies for spelling mistakes, most of them are keyboarding errors. To enjoy this forum I run out of time to proof read.
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Screws securing rear silencer to holder
Tightening torque
17 ftlb

You can calibrate a good torque wrench but the tester is expensive.

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So, Tess Tickle, are you compiling torque wrench specifications for the 987's? If so, where will the working version be posted? Will it be an MS Excel spreadsheet? Has someone already compiled a list for the 986 and/or 996/997 on another forum that we can link to?

I suggest that included with each item/value should be the authoritative source of the data, for example, 1) Porsche Boxster (986) Service Manual: Boxster, Boxster S 1997-2004, Bentley Publishers, Cambridge, MA, 2005, Bentley Publishers Home *-* Bentley Publishers - Repair Manuals and Automotive Books . That way if there is ever any question of the quoted value it can more easily be verified.

Also, if available, the tolerance should also be recorded. For example, the Oil Filter Housing to Crankcase torque specification is quoted as 25 +- 1 Nm ( 19 +- 1 ft-lb) in Ref. 1).

I'm curious, STLPCA, where did you find the value for the caliper bleed screw torque specification?

This might help on the front end, post #10 by wpmjr has some info
LCAs

I was able to cut and paste it.

The trailing arm is the diagonal arm I wrote about- do not spend the $228 each for this- shim the original with washers. 997 GT3 LCAs are a ton of money- go for 996 GT3 LCAs which accomplish the same thing. Like I said, I spent $640 TOTAL. Don't bother with this mod if you aren't going beyond -.9 front camber, of course. My front is -2.6 degrees after my last tweak. Here is a pic:

Click this bar to view the small image.


It amounted to the following actions:

1. Disconnect tie rod and sway bar from wheel carrier.

2. Disconnect trailing arm (diagonal arm) from LCA.

3. Disconnect ball joint connection between carrier and LCA. (use prescribed Porsche tool- this came off with a lot of force and a BANG! I borrowed one from my dealership).

4. Disconnect LCA at cross member.

The 996 GT3 LCA is the same length as ours without shims. Put initial shim pack you think is what you want. You get about 1 degree for every .350" you move it out at the botttom or in at the top.

5. Tighten the twin bolts that connect the two halves of the new LCA, with the shims in between. This takes a 13mm socket with a 1/4" drive u-joint to get into the cramped area between the ribs that are cast into the outboard half of the LCA. Porsche tech tells me the torque is 20 ft lbs.

6. Measure trailing arm mount on old and new LCA's with calipers. Go to the hardware store and get six thick washers to make the difference, and use 3 on bottom and 3 on top.

7. Reinstall as you removed the original. Tie rod torque: 56 ft lbs, trailing arm torque: 118 ft lbs, sway bar to link torque: 37ft lbs 1st stage/loosen 90 degrees/48 ft lbs second stage, ball joint toque <I'll post later>, LCA to cross member torque <I'll post later>.

Note: the new LCA has two positions for the trailing arm bolt, so close together the holes overlap forming an "8". I guess this would change caster if you wanted. I chose the hole more rearward, which is along the center line of the arm and corresponds to our LCA mounting point. To get the trailing arm bolt to go through you will have to apply a little force flexing the LCA forward.

8. ALIGN IT! You've got a ton of toe-in now!

Good catch. "Wench" instead of "Wrench." I missed it the first time. Ed

ALCON:
Was looking for just this information and came upon this thread. Great!! Thanks all.
Is there a final product in the works?

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