Planet 9

Anyone use these or something similar? Posi-Lock(TM) - The Best Connectors You'll Ever Use!

Any feedback?

After 30 years of engineering experience I stay away from connectors like those. The amount of tension on the conductors isn't enough, over the long term, to prevent some oxidation, and thus a poor connection. They will work fine initially but they'll become intermittant over time. This is especially true in a wet or humid environment.

The most reliable type of connector is called an IDC connector--insulation displacement connector. It forces the copper conductors into a V shape and compresses them into the connector's mating part and exposes very little copper to the atmosphere because it cuts a very tiny slit in the insulation. These are typically the type of connectors that tap into the middle or end an existing wire. They are what's used in virtually every telephone and computer connector in recent times.

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Brett

2008 Cayman S Arctic Silver, Carrera Red full leather, Carbon Fiber package +, 19" Carrera Sport wheels, short shifter, Quaife TBD, GT3RS steering wheel

Some interior carbon fiber pics: ClickMe!

Those look very slick! A quick search came up with this (you've probably searched already....) The site says they're utilized by 'many' manufacturers - I can say that I've never seen them, or, if I have, never paid attention to them. Reminds me of a shaft coupling technique that my father showed me last year - one of those things where you say 'why didn't I think of that?'.

Putting shrink wrap tubing over the top of it might even 'weatherproof' it more....

Posi-Lock - Posi-Twist Connectors - webBikeWorld - 32k

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GT Silver CS
1980 Honda CBX
2004 Suzuki SV1000
2006 Subaru Legacy
2002 Honda Insight

I'll take your word on it, but when compared to spade/lug/bullet connectors, would the same hold true?? I assume you are relating it to 'critical' connections, but not necessarily the aforementioned connectors or Marr caps, etc? Most of these have very little, if any, atmospheric resistance.

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GT Silver CS
1980 Honda CBX
2004 Suzuki SV1000
2006 Subaru Legacy
2002 Honda Insight

I'm not a fan of spade lugs and crimp-on connectors that are not the same materials the conductors they are mating to (galvanic corrosion and all that). Unless you use a very good crimper and heat-shrink you end up with connections that are temporary.

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Brett

2008 Cayman S Arctic Silver, Carrera Red full leather, Carbon Fiber package +, 19" Carrera Sport wheels, short shifter, Quaife TBD, GT3RS steering wheel

Some interior carbon fiber pics: ClickMe!

My experience backs that up!

btw - when you mention IDC connectors, you're talking mostly fine gauge, communication type wiring, correct. I can't think of any on high tension wires for example! (bit of an extreme there!)

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GT Silver CS
1980 Honda CBX
2004 Suzuki SV1000
2006 Subaru Legacy
2002 Honda Insight

Yes, IDC connections are only used on fairly fine conductors. With larger gauge wiring a good, clean copper to copper connection, under a significant amount of compression, works best. Lack of compression invites corrosion.

Also, a gold to copper connection will work very well too since gold doesn't corrode.

Really, in the long run, a VERY CLEAN (avoid finger grease) and good crimp using a VERY GOOD quality crimper will overcome most issues.

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Brett

2008 Cayman S Arctic Silver, Carrera Red full leather, Carbon Fiber package +, 19" Carrera Sport wheels, short shifter, Quaife TBD, GT3RS steering wheel

Some interior carbon fiber pics: ClickMe!

Still the best is soldered and heatshrink.

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Red 06 Cayman S
White 01 Ford Ranger
Blue 73 914
Did not try, just happened

+1 and it cost less!

Not if I include setting fire to the garage!

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GT Silver CS
1980 Honda CBX
2004 Suzuki SV1000
2006 Subaru Legacy
2002 Honda Insight

Actually no. Only crimping is used on critical wiring on applications such as aircraft or even the space shuttle...

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Cayman Club Outsider

I agree. I worked on automotive electrical for 10 years. I've tried a lot of time/work saving connectors (not these) and they all fail over time.

If crimped properly, a good seamless crimp connector is very permanent. But I have developed a little rule of thumb in regard to connections. "If you wouldn't do it on your Harley Davidson, then don't do it."

The Harley test is a good test. Harleys vibrate like crazy and their wiring will see wild variations in moisture and temperature. In many cases, a crimped connection will ultimately fail. A soldered splice will outlast the bike and wiring. And if you get a decent butane fueled soldering iron, a perfect soldered connection is easy to accomplish.

The only real drawback to soldering, that likely results in the use of crimp connectors in many applications, is that if you leave a sharp point on your solder job it can poke through the insulator and cause a short circuit. If you are leaving sharp peaks, then you don't know what your doing.

Your work piece is not hot enough. The solder will go toward the heat. If your tip is hotter than your wire, it's going to make a peak when you pull away. Use the tip to heat the wire, melt the solder on the wire, not on the tip. When you see the solder flow into the strands, you've achieved the correct heat and you can pull away. At this point the solder is very liquid and it will not follow the tip.

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Gator Bite
PCA Cayman Register Advocate

Oh, mua bad he said NASA!



Way back when I was a 12 volt tech, we would often joke about the Ron Popiel "extend-a-wire kit" Basicly two butt connectors and your choice of wire length.

3M makes a pretty good crimp connector, but solder is best. My question to the OP would be what are you usung these connectors on?

Every spring I have lots of electrical repairs due to rodent damage during the winter. Outdoor lights, irrigation systems and you name it. Just looking for the quickest, simplest but best solution for repair work.

I had 34 years of experience in electrical construction. I've used all types of crimp connectors and solder. The type of wire, the type of connector, the environment (moisture, vibration, etc) that the connection is subjected to, and using the proper crimping tool has a lot to do with the longevity of the connection.
Scotchlok terminals (made by 3M) and terminals made by Panduit are good brands. There are connectors with different insulating materials such as Vinyl insulated and Nylon insulated. There are moisture-resistant butt connectors made by the different manufacturers (i.e. 3M makes MNG18BCMX). Is the wire solid or stranded? Is the wire tinned copper?
For environments with extreme moisture including salt water and a lot of vibration (cars and boats) here's my solution using butt connectors. I used tinned copper wire, use a good quality butt connector (I use 3M), crimp the connector using the proper tool and then coat the butt splice (make sure to get the ends coated) with a product called 'liquid electrical tape'. I used this method on all of my cars and boats and never had a splice fail. I wired my 19' Boston Whaler and where I had to splice wires I used the method I described. For 10 years I fished in the Atlantic Ocean and the boat took a pounding and no splices failed.
I've also made 1000s of solder connections. Both methods are good.

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If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, maybe you just don't understand the situation.

Outdoor low volt lights = Yes because thats basicly what they are using.

Irrigation= Maybe if its a temp fix... Although I would try to get the wires in some conduit.

Cars= not so good


Porsche cars= you better not! Or I will be forced to tell on you

I wouldn't expect those connectors to last in wet outdoor applications.

My recommendation, get yourself a Master Appliance UT-100 Butane soldering iron and with a little practice you will be soldering like a pro. Learn to do a 'Westinghouse splice' and insulate it with either heat shrink tubing or good quality electrical tape (3M Super 33, or for high temp applications Super 80).

Westlake Electronic Supply: Product Details for MAS-UT-100 ULTRATOURCH

You can get one of these for just under $100, but it will provide you with the ability to become a soldering master.

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Gator Bite
PCA Cayman Register Advocate

The splice you are referring to is the "Western Union Splice" (see the linked pdf). I used it countless times (I used the splice in figure 6). It is designed to be used with solid conductors and soldering is not necessary if the splice is correctly made. The Western Union Splice will work with stranded conductors that are soldered.
If you are going to have the splice out in the weather I would use heat shrink and then wrap the splice with Super 88 and finish with Super 33+ for UV protection. I wouldn't use this type of splice if it will be buried in the ground (direct burial) unless it is in an enclosure approved for that purpose. It is designed to be used in the air between two supports.
If you're making the splices in a line voltage (110VAC or above) power supply for an irrigation system and they will be buried you can use an approved enclosure, the 'pigtail splice' (figure 12) and wirenuts. If the power supply is low voltage you can use direct burial. As ul2fly previously stated if the wires are in conduit you won't have the rodent problems in the future.

Scotch® Super 33+ Vinyl Electrical Tape
Premium quality, 7 mil electrical insulating tape that applies well in broad temperature range. Flame-retardant, hot- and cold-weather resistant; resists UV rays, abrasion, moisture, alkalies, acids and corrosion

Scotch® Super Vinyl Electrical Tape 88
Premium quality, heavy-duty, weather-resistant 8.5 mil electrical insulating tape that remains conformable in cold weather; flame-retardant; resists weather, alkalies, acids and corrosion.


http://www.markhellerelectric.com/solder.pdf

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If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, maybe you just don't understand the situation.

I've used them on several cars, with good experience, for the last six years. No failures, no corrosion, no pull-a-part's, no worries. They are what they are, and do what they are intended to do.

+1 I would use butt splices in a car or boat. We're talking about 12VDC.

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If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, maybe you just don't understand the situation.