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Posts: 3,286
Registered: October 2006


Borla Race Exhaust System for Porsche Cayman (p/n 12653 & 12654)

Reviews Views Date of last review
2 42008 Fri September 25, 2009


Recommended By Average Price Average Rating
100% of reviewers None indicated None indicated


ATTENTION: This article was destroyed by its original author in an attempt to hurt our members and try to direct them to 'his' site for his personal gain. We have been forced to change ownership of the article to the admin. We apologize for missing photos and information but the original author intentionally destroyed them.[/url][/b]

Borla Race Exhaust System (p/n 12653 & 12654):

Tools needed for this project:

Here are the tools that I used to complete my removal / installation:

From left to right:
  • Ratcheting Screwdriver with 1/4" drive bit
  • Flexible 1/4" drive extension, 6" long
  • 3/8" drive extension, 10" long
  • 3/8" drive Universal Joint Adapter (top)
  • 3/8" drive extension, 6" long (bottom)
  • 3/8" drive extension, 3" long
  • 1/4" drive ratchet with 13mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet with 13mm socket
  • 13mm Ratcheting box wrench (1/2" works too)
  • 13mm open end / box wrench
Other needed tools (not pictured):
  • Safety goggles (not pictured)
  • 3/8" drive 13mm deep socket (not pictured)
  • Pair of automotive ramps
  • Creeper (pictured below)
  • Magnetic Parts Tray
For re-installation, you will need a 3/8" drive torque wrench. I used this one:

Installing the Borla Exhaust System:

The installation instructions provided by Borla are really quite good. I suggest that you read them front to back before beginning and keep them handy throughout the installation. This installation articles is intended to be a suppliment to augment the fine work already done by Borla.

Before installing the Borla Race Exhaust system, you will need to completely remove your factory exhaust system, mounting brackets and exhaust tip opening trim. Please follow the instructions provided in my Factory Exhaust Removal Article and/or the Borla instructions before proceeding to step 1.

1.) Place the provide clamps over the expanded ends of the tip assembly. Make sure you orient the clamps with the bolt/nut on the back with the nuts facing down so you will be able access them later.

Install Tip: Spray a light coating of pentrating oil onto a rag and wipe a little onto the connection points where the tip assembly connects to the muffler arrays.

Pre-assemble the exhaust system by sliding the expanded openings of the tip assembly over the right and left muffler assembly output pipes. DO NOT tighten the clamps at this time.

2.) Slip the original flange gaskets onto the header flanges.

3.) Borla recommends that you solicit the help of another person to lift the exhaust system into place. This is a good idea because as you do so, the three pieces of the exhaust system will want to move, shift and come apart. It is important that you keep the muffler assemblies fully inserted into the tip assembly. I did this job alone so I found it helpful to use a ratcheting nylon strap to pull the two muffler pipes into the tip to keep the pieces from coming apart.

As you lift the exhaust system into place, keep an eye on the tips. You will need to rotate them upward into the fascia opening before moving the system fully forward. The tips will not fit between the narrowest (bottom) part of the opening, so this must be done as you lift the system into place. (This is also why you took the trim piece off).

Once the front exhaust flanges are almost in place, try to position the mounting arms on top of the rear mounting points so the system will stay in place by itself. Here's a picture of the driver side mounting arm resting on top of the mounting surface:

Once both sides are resting on the mounting surface, on one side carefully maneuver the exhaust flange onto the header flange so the flange bolts are properly through the Borla flange holes. At this point thread at least one nut onto any flange bolt, finger tighten it just a few threads to prevent the flange from accidentally coming apart while you attempt this alignment on the other side. Now repeat this procedure on the other side.

Once both flanges are loosely in place, reinstall the remaining flange nuts, finger tight only at this time.

4.) It's now time to install the rubber isolators. One goes on top of the mounting arm, one goes below the mounting arm (between it and the mounting surface). I found it helpful to trim the end off of the top isolators because it was hitting the vertical part of the mounting arm and making it tricky for me to get my mounting bolts lined up. A sharp razor knife will do the trick. Just apply firm pressure and gently rock the blade until you are through.

Install Tip: The Borla system came with 4 washers. Put them aside. We won't be using them. Instead, we will use the mounting plates that were on top of the factory exhuast hanger. They are thick, made of T-304 Stainless Steel and then have two wholes in them that line up perfectly with the threaded wholes.

Once the isolators are in place, push the supplied mounting bolts through the original stainless mounting plates, then through the mounting arm, isolators and carefully start the bolts in the threaded mounting area. This may require some wiggling and repositioning of the muffler assemblies (this is why we lubricated the connection points).

Resist the temptation to use the ratchet. The mounting surface is made of aluminum so you can easily cross thread the bolts and cause severe damage.

Because I was working alone, I used a couple more nylon straps to hold the mufflers in place while I installed the screws. In these pictures you can see the straps, one pulling the muffler toward the transmission, another pulling it forward. You can also see the rubber isolators (circled in red) in these pictures:

Repeat this procedure on the other side. Once you have all four of the mounting bolts started, tighten each until the washer on top is slightly sunken into the top isolator. Don't over tighten these or you will reduce their vibration isolating abilities.

5.) Tighten the 6 flange nuts to 18-22 ft.lbs. DO NOT use air tools. Unevenly tightening the flanges can distort them which will result in exhaust leaks and/or sever damage to the headers. I suggest tightening the flange nuts in steps. First tighten them by hand to 10 ft.lbs each, then again to 20 ft.lbs each.

6.) Check the tip alignment and correct it as necessary. If your bends are not perfect, your tips may not move very easily. I used a piece of wood and a rubber mallet to gently tap mine into position.

7.) Once your tips are properly aligned, tighten the clamps to 35 ft.lbs. Be careful to position the clamp so their opening is not over any of the notches in the pipe.

8.) Start the vehicle and quickly check for leaks (before the system gets too hot).

9.) Reinstall the exhaust tip opening trim piece.

Let the exhaust system warm up. There is a protective oil coating used during manufacturing and bending of the pipes, both inside and out. This oil will burn off and create smoke until the system reaches full operating temperature. This is completely normal and nothing to be alarmed about.

Now go and rediscover your car with your new Borla exhaust system.

Before & After Dyno Results:

Dynamometer Test Conducted by Farnbacher Loles, Danbury CT using Dyno Dynamics Dynamometer.
Pre installation horsepower: 294.3 BHP, 242.7 RWHP
Post installation horsepower: 315.7 BHP, 261.2 RWHP
Horsepower Gain: 21.4 BHP, 18.5 RWHP

For more details and dyno charts, please see Stock Cayman S vs. Cayman S with Borla Race Exhaust.

Test Vehicle Information:
Year, Make, Model: 2007 Porsche Cayman S
Transmission: 6 Speed Manual
Mileage: ~5,900 miles
Other Modifications: None


Price: $1,699 (USD)

Verified Vehicle Compatibility: 2005-2007 Cayman S, 2007 Cayman, 2007 Boxster S

Country of Origin: United States of America

Construction Material: T-304 Austenitic Stainless Steel

Muffler Design: XR-1 Multi (3) Core Straight Through

Tip Configuration: Dual 4" Round, Double Wall Polished Stainless Steel (3.5" on p/n 12654)

Design Style: True Dual Exhaust using four 5" x 10" XR-1 Racing Mufflers (2 per side)

Weight: ~40 lbs (19.1 kg) [8 lbs (3.64 kg) < stock system w/tips & hangers]

Performance Gain: 21.4 horsepower at the crankshaft (18.5 at the wheels)

Install Time Required: ~4 hours

Install Difficulty (1=simple, 10=difficult): 7

Sponsor Website: (if applicable):
Link to Forum Topic about this item: (if applicable): Borla Catback Exhaust (PN:12653)
Keywords: Borla Catback Race Exhaust 12653 12654 Tips




Registered: September 2007
Posts: 1699
Review Date: Tue January 27, 2009 Would you recommend the product? Yes | Price you paid?: None indicated | Rating: 0 
Have you installed this Product or Mod?:
I recommend that this job be done on jackstands with the wheels off. The header bolts are a piece of cake with the wheels off. A step stool can be placed under the silencer or exhaust tip to keep the system from dropping while the final bolts are being removed. I placed an old rug under the exhaust to provide padding during the final removal process. Also, a correction, the bolt on the stock tip is 15mm.
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PCA Member

Registered: October 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 40
Review Date: Fri September 25, 2009 Would you recommend the product? Yes | Price you paid?: None indicated | Rating: 0 
Have you installed this Product or Mod?:
Am I missing something on this page? What happened to the install article and pictures?

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