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Installation of Improved Vapor Oil Separator

Reviews Views Date of last review
8 21719 Sat February 5, 2011

 

Recommended By Average Price Average Rating
50% of reviewers $452.50 10.0

 

Description:
Many Caymanclubbers have reported problems caused by oil ingestion into the engine intake. The usual symptom is large amounts of smoke emanating from the engine exhaust. Not puffs of smoke - LOTS of smoke (sample photographs are posted here Caygirl smoking). The smoke has been reported by trackers, AXers, and street drivers. The root cause seems to be that when the engine throttle is closed at high RPM, the resulting manifold vacuum sucks engine oil out of the crankcase, past the stock Vapor Oil Separator (or Air Oil Separator), and into the intake plenum. From there it gets sucked into the cylinders and burned, resulting in large quantities of smoke. Please do not mistake this phenomenon for the typical puff of blue smoke upon startup that is typical of all horizontally-opposed engines. See Severe Smoke for more information. Caygirl has submitted a petition to Porsche that requests that Porsche take corrective action to fix the problem (see Smoke 'em if you got 'em petition to Porsche).

"glenn" pioneered a solution to this problem. He had a "MotorSports" Vapor Oil Separator (VOS) installed in his track car, and verified with extensive track testing that this change eliminated the problem. He posted an article describing his solution here Severe Smoke / Oil ingestion - Solved with Porsche MotorSports Oil Seperator. Kudos to glenn for identifying a solution and posting the information!

As glenn described in his article, it is not easy to install the improved VOS (I'll henceforth call the "MotorSports" VOS the "improved" VOS in response to Scott Slausen's comments here Oily mass air sensor poor running CELs). The improved VOS is much larger than the stock VOS, and in order to make it fit in the engine compartment the air injection pump and its mounting bracket must be modified or removed. Also, the hoses that connect the stock VOS to the left-hand side of the engine, and then connect the VOS outlet to the intake plenum, will not work with the improved VOS, so new hoses must be fabricated. EDIT: BillC has found and demonstrated the installation of a hose that eliminates the need for splices or any hose fabrication. See his comments in the review at the end of this article.

Krokodil, arcticsilver, and K-Man S have also had an improved VOS installed on their cars, and each has posted useful information about how their shop accomplished the installation. Krokodil and arcticsilver have also reported that the improved VOS completely eliminates the oil ingestion problem.

The improved VOS itself is not prohibitively expensive. I purchased mine for $455. However, because of the difficulty of the installation, the labor to install the VOS has been running in the 8-12 hour range. This substantially increases the cost of this mod. Also, several of the "first adopters" cited above have recommended that specialty race car fabricators be used for the installation, since it is not straightforward.

I have experienced the smoke ingestion problem myself, and since I didn't want it to happen again I decided not to wait and see if Porsche would respond favorably to our petition. To save money, and because I enjoy working on my car, I decided to tackle this job myself. The following article describes what I did to successfully install an improved VOS in my car. I'm sure a skilled, professional mechanic would do it differently and better, but this is what I did.

NOTE!!!! This is not an easy job, and it should be left to professionals unless you're an experienced mechanic, or, like me, you're an inexperienced mechanic with a taste for adventure! If you do decide to tackle this job, then allow plenty of time. It took me several hours a night for 5 nights. However, I was figuring this out as I went, and it should not take someone else quite so long, since the following detailed instructions are now available. DO NOT START THIS JOB UNLESS YOU HAVE PLENTY OF TIME TO SPEND ON IT!!!

PARTS:

1. The improved VOS is P/N 996 107 926 00. You can get it from your local dealer, or one of the site sponsors like Suncoast or Tisher. I paid $455.

Here is a picture of the IVOS:



2. You'll also need 2 M6 x 35 external Torx fasteners. The stock VOS uses similar fasteners, but with a 20mm length instead of 35mm. The improved VOS has a deeper flange, and requires longer fasteners to install.

3. According to the Porsche Service Manual, you should replace your intake manifold gaskets when you remove and replace the intake manifold. A set of new gaskets will be $20-25. I chose to reuse my gaskets, as they were still pliable and in excellent condition. I cannot provide a part number for these, as the part number in my Porsche Parts Catalog is incorrect. The following photo shows the correct gasket on the left, and the one incorrectly called-for in my Parts Catalog on the right. if anbody wants to buy an incorrect set of intake manifold gaskets please send me a PM.



4. Finally, you'll need couplers, hoses, and hose clamps to modify your existing hoses, or fabricate new hoses, to connect the improved VOS to the hose coming from the left side of the engine, and then to connect the VOS to the intake plenum. It is difficult for me to give a precise Bill of Materials for this job. I connected my IVOS (improved VOS) to my Softronic Race Plenum, and I will describe how I did that. However, you might have a stock plenum, or an IPD plenum, and the hose required to connect the IVOS to those plenums will be different. I will not describe how to fabricate hoses to connect to a stock plenum or an IPD plenum. Also, I used parts available at my local auto parts store and hardware store to make these hoses and adapters. Similar parts may not be available at your auto parts store and hardware store. Thus, some ingenuity and improvisation will probably be required by each individual to fabricate and/or adapt the required hoses. IF YOU DO NOT THINK THAT YOU CAN SUCCESSFULLY IMPROVISE THE REQUIRED HOSES STOP NOW!!!!!

EDIT: The correct factory hose for the IVOS, as posted below by BillC, is 996 107 947 00. So be sure to have this hose on hand before you start, as it will need to be special ordered. Here is a photo of the stock hose shortened and adapted as described in this article (on the left), another hose mysteriously supplied to me by Porsche when I ordered something else (in the middle), and the correct hose identified by BillC, that fits perfectly, on the right.



TOOLS:

In addition to the typical workshop tools that would normally be available to anyone who would consider this job, the following less-common tools are either extremely helpful or absolutely required:



From left to right:

1. 22mm open end wrench
2. Inspection mirror, and part retrieval magnet
3. E10 external Torx socket (see External Torx sockets).
4. Torx T40 bit (1/4" hex drive) and 1/4" wrench to turn the bit in cramped quarters
5. Right-angle screwdriver
6. 3/8" wobble drive
7. Various long-nose pliers, including needle-nose, hose clamp, and right-angle tip pliers

8. Not shown, but absolutely essential, a 3/8" drive torque wrench THAT CAN ACCURATELY MEASURE A 60 IN-LB TORQUE!!! Do not fail to have this available.

Are you ready? Let's get started...

1. Disconnect the negative lead from the battery (10mm wrench).

2. Lift the rear hatch all the way up - it goes much farther than where it initially stops when you push it up. Getting the hatch completely out of the way really helps...

3. Put towels, etc. down to protect the rear trunk carpet and aluminum-look trim at the aft edge of the engine compartment. You're going to be spending a lot of time crouched in the rear boot, with tools, parts, and greasy hands. Put down some serious protection. Also, you'll climb in and out of the rear boot 100 times. Get a step stool or box to step on to make this easy.

4. Remove both engine covers (See Engine Cover Removal and Removing Engine Cover on Rear Wall of Passenger Compartment).

For reference, this is more or less what you'll see in your engine compartment (note that this photo shows the Softronic Race Plenum installed).



5. Remove the electrical connector from the throttle (squeeze the end of the connector where the wires come out), and unclip the wire from the clip on the throttle below the inlet hose. NOTE: this description and the following photo describe the situation when a non-stock plenum has been installed. If you can't figure out how this step can be accomplished with your stock plenum STOP NOW!



6. Remove the tube(s) from the stock VOS to the intake plenum. The stock plenum has 2 connections, one on each side. The IPD and Softronic Race Plenum have a single connection on the right side. The tube is disconnected from the VOS by squeezing the ring at the end of the tube.

7. Loosen the hose clamps that secure the plenum to the intake manifolds (the hose clamps are 7mm). Then remove the plenum and disconnect the hose on the bottom of the plenum.

Look at all that oil! When I did this there was oil in my plenum, oil in the rubber rings that connect the plenum to the intake manifold, oil in the intake manifolds - oil was everywhere!

8. Remove the forward resonance tube that connects the left and right intake manifolds. The resonance tube can be left in place, just drop it down between the left and right manifolds so it's out of the way. See the following photo:



9 Remove the rubber rings and hose clamps from the right intake manifold, both for the plenum & resonance tube. We're going to be removing the right intake manifold.

10. Remove the coolant line from the top of the coolant overflow tank on the right side of the engine compartment, unclip the coolant line from the right intake manifold (IM), and move the coolant line out of way. Expect it to puke some fluid out at some point in this process, so plan in advance to not let this create a big mess.

This photo shows the coolant line in question and the attachment that should be disconnected:



11. Disconnect the wire from the top of the starter (13mm box-end wrench).

12. Disconnect the wiring harness from the holes on the air pump bracket - push the plastic compression pins out from the back with a screwdriver.

13. Disconnect the air pump wiring harness connector. I used a screwdriver to pry up the tab that locks the connector together.



14. Disconnect the oil filler hose, and move the aft half of the hose out of the way. There is a snap ring that connects the 2 halves of the hose together. After the snap ring is removed the 2 halves can be worked apart.



15. Remove the 2 E10 external Torx bolts that hold the stock VOS in place.

16. Pull the VOS up until you can disconnect the oil breather tube at the lower outboard part of the VOS. This tube also disconnects by squeezing the ring at the connection between the VOS and the tube.

17. Wiggle and lift the VOS until the hose on the bottom of the VOS comes free from the VOS - remove the VOS.

18. Immediately cover the resulting holes that lead into the engine crankcase to prevent foreign object ingestion. I used blue painter's tape.

19. Disconnect the wiring harness clip forward of where the VOS had been - move the wiring harness out of the way.

20. Disconnect the wiring harness clip outboard of where the VOS had been (this clip is below the aft end of the fuel rail).



21. Unclip the wires from the resonance tube solenoid (between the front and middle intake runners) & from the engine temperature sensor (between the middle and aft intake runners) on the IM. Push the wires down below the fuel rail brackets so they don't get caught on the IM during the subsequent IM removal.



22. Remove the resonance tube solenoid from the IM. Push the solenoid in towards the center of the engine so that the solenoid doesn't get caught on the IM during the subsequent removal of the IM. The engine temperature sensor can be left in place on the IM.

23. Unclip the cable tray from the front of IM (access this from the passenger compartment). To unclip the cable tray use a screwdriver to pry it loose from the IM. See following photo. Tuck the cable tray under the IM so that it doesn't get caught on the IM during the subsequent removal of the IM. It may be helpful to disconnect the connector on the front of the engine just below the end of the cable tray in question, depending on how much wire slack is available.



24. Disconnect the electrical connector from the forward fuel injector. I used the long-nose hose pliers to pull the connector apart, while prying up on the wire release with a screwdriver to do this:



25. Disconnect the electrical connector from the middle fuel injector. I used the long-nose pliers to pull the connector apart, while pulling up on the wire release with the right angle screwdriver. Access the wire release from the gap between the forward and middle intake runners.

26. Disconnect the electrical connector from the aft fuel injector. I used the long-nose right-angle tip pliers to pull up on the wire release while pulling the connector apart.

27. Disconnect the flexible hose that supplies fuel to the fuel rail from the clip that holds it in place at the right forward upper part of the engine compartment. The clip in question is tucked under the horizontal bar that crosses from the right to the left of the car at the upper forward edge of the engine compartment. The clip is visible in the 2nd photo below that shows the engine compartment after the IM has been removed.

28. Remove the 4 Torx E10 fasteners holding the IM in place. Note - the factory service manual incorrectly states that 6 fasteners hold the IM in place! I wasted a lot of time with my inspection mirror trying to find the other 2 fasteners!!! I found the 3/8" wobble drive to be very handy for the forward IM fastener. DO NOT DISCONNECT THE FUEL LINE FROM THE FUEL RAIL!!! There is no need to do that. The IM can be pivoted out of the way with the fuel line still attached, if you've disconnected the fuel line from its clip as described above.



29. Remove the IM. It is difficult to get the IM out of the tight space on the right side of the engine compartment. Move the IM aft, up, rotate it, jiggle it, twist it, etc. as required to get it out of the engine compartment. If you're forcing anything, you're doing it wrong. Back off and try again. Once the IM is away from the engine, pivot it to the left side of the car and out of the way. The following photo shows the IM pivoted out of the way and resting on top of the engine. The air pump is now clearly visible and accessible (lower right portion of photo).



30. The intake ports into the cylinders are now open and exposed. Immediately cover the ports to prevent foreign objects from entering the engine. I again used blue painter's tape.



At this point you can do a trial fit of the IVOS, and see where it interferes with the air pump and its bracket. This is a good thing to do in order to provide context for the following steps. In order to eliminate this interference, and get the IVOS installed, the air pump must be heavily modified or removed, and the air pump bracket must be modified. As will be shown later, the air pump bracket cannot be removed.

31. There is a cable tray that runs fore/aft just to the right of the air pump, and under where the IM used to be. Move the cable tray out of way - the rear fastener is E10, and it is anchored at its front end by a pin into the air pump bracket.

32. Remove the fasteners that hold the air pump onto its bracket - the fasteners are T40 (note that the T40 bit w/ 1/4" wrench shown earlier is required for the forward fastener).



33. Pry the hose that runs from the air pump to the one-way valve off the one-way valve with a screwdriver - then remove the air pump.



34. Disconnect the wiring harness from the transducer that attaches to the crankcase just to the left of the bracket that held the air pump. See photo below.

35. Loosen the nut that holds the pipe into the air pump bracket - 22mm open end.



36. Remove the 3 T30 fasteners that hold the air pump bracket to the crankcase, and remove the air pump bracket. Note the gasket that is between the air pump bracket and the engine. This gasket seals the air injection port, and this direct connection between the bracket and the engine is the reason why the air pump bracket cannot be simply removed. Immediately cover this port to prevent debris from entering your engine. I used blue painter's tape.



At this point in the job I found the following:



That, friends, is one half of a wooden clothes pin. I have absolutely no idea how it got buried on the top of my engine. No one has ever worked on my car except for me. The only exception was when I had a Quaife TBD installed at a dealer. Are clothes pins used in differential installations??? Also troubling in the above photo is the pool of oil on the top of the engine. I have no idea how that got there, either. So...

37. There will be a bunch of debris on top of your engine. Dirt, pine needles, bits of leaves, maybe even a clothes pin. Vacuum up all the debris so you won't accidentally knock any of this stuff into your engine.

38. This is what the air pump bracket looks like.



Now we need to mark & trim the bracket to eliminate the interference with the IVOS. It is possible to trim off the interfering material without eliminating any of the air pump mounting bosses. All that needs to be eliminated is the flange on the aft side of the bracket that is used to provide mounts for the cable tray and another wiring harness. The next 2 photos show the trim lines that will accomplish this.





Get a hacksaw and make the indicated cuts. Do the top one 1st. File all resulting sharp edges smooth. The metal is soft and cuts easily.

39. Reinstall the air pump bracket. The gasket under the air pump bracket is handed - the tab goes outboard, and the center hole goes aft of a line between the two small holes. Hold the gasket in place on the bottom of the bracket by partially inserting the fasteners and then install the bracket.

Here's a photo of the trimmed bracket back in place.



40. At this point do another trial fit of the IVOS. Verify that there is no interference with the air pump bracket. Now try to reinstall the air pump, and you will see that there is a serious interference issue with the air pump.

Some of the first adopters cited above described significant modifications that were made to their air pump to eliminate the interference. Another approach was to bend the bracket, and only attach the air pump to the bracket with a single fastener (!!!).

If your car is only used off road, one can legally remove the air pump. The function of the air pump is to inject additional air into the intake ports during the first few minutes of operation of the car. This provides a lean mixture that burns hot, helping the secondary catalysts in the exhaust headers to warm up to operating temperature quickly. If the air pump is removed, the inlet to the one-way valve on the forward side of the air pump bracket must be securely plugged to make sure that no debris is sucked into your engine during its subsequent operation. There will be suction from the engine that will open this valve unless the port is securely plugged. The port in question is visible in the photo above that gives an overview of the bracket.

Note that if the air pump is simply removed, you will get a "Check Engine" light. Some aftermarket ECU flashes eliminate this problem. But the best solution, by far, is to modify the pump to eliminate the interference!! See this excellent article by BillC for detailed instructions - Installing the Stock Air Pump with the Motorsports VOS.

41. Once you've dealt with the air pump interference, it's time to start putting everything back together. Reassemble everything back to the point where it is time to reinstall the VOS.

Reassembly tips:

Clean the mounting flanges on the cylinder heads before reinstalling IM. Mine were an oily mess.

The fasteners that attach the IM to the cylinder head should be torqued to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lb). This is very little torque!!! You'll be shocked at how little torque this is. Be sure your torque wrench can reliably measure this torque. Most torque wrenches are not accurate below 20% of full-scale. I used a 25-250 in-lb Craftsman torque wrench.

42. When it is time to install the new VOS, note that the factory Service Manual says to install the hose on the bottom of the VOS, and then clip that hose to engine. I found it easier to do the attachment to the engine first, and then attach the hose to the bottom of the VOS using the long nose pliers and/or some long handled conventional pliers. It's very difficult to access the clamp to the engine once the VOS is in place. When you think you've got the clamp in place correctly, use your inspection mirror to verify.

Also, remember to use the longer M6 x 35 fasteners to attach the IVOS to the engine (7.5 Nm torque again).

43. Now that the IVOS is in place, reinstall everthing else, except for the hoses to the VOS from the LH side of the engine, and the hose from the VOS to the plenum.

44. EDIT: The following description is unecessary if one obtains the correct factory hose to connect the IVOS to the crankcase - see BillC's review at the end of this article. The part number you need is 996 107 947 00. I strongly recommend that you use this hose instead of modifying the stock hose as described below. I later went back and changed out my modified hose for the 996 107 947 00 hose!


Fabricate and/or adapt a hose for the connection from the left side of the engine to the VOS first (this is an inlet connection for the VOS). The existing hose is too long for the new configuration. The existing hose is designed to attach to the bottom right part of the stock VOS, whereas the inlet to the IVOS is on the top left.

WARNING!!! The following steps result in a permanent change to the hose that runs from the left side of your engine to your VOS. You will not be able to reinstall your stock VOS if you follow this procedure! Also, if you screw up and break the hose or cut it it too short, it is a hell of a tough job to replace this hose!!! Be slow and careful with the following...

Note that the existing hose has rigid sections and flexible sections at various places along its length. What I did was cut off the end of the hose, leaving just enough of the rigid tube attached to the connector to install a coupler. Here is a photo of the end of the inlet hose cut off with a little excess rigid hose still attached for subsequent trimming. The rigid section can be cut with a hacksaw.



Install this coupling/pipe on the upper left (inlet) port on the IVOS. Now bend the remaining hose to match - mark what the new length needs to be, and then cut the hose to the new correct length (leave excess for a subsequent final trim). The flexible portion of the hose can be easily cut with a sharp knife or boxcutter.

I found that a brass 3/4" coupling (hardware store - plumbing supply area) and hose clamps worked perfectly to splice the hose together. You may prefer a more elegant solution - but hey, I'm just a country boy... My only concern about the brass coupling is that the threads are quite sharp, and may eventually cut the softer plastic of the hose. You could sand or file these threads to make them less sharp.







45. Now fabricate a hose from the IVOS outlet to the plenum. I will describe what I did to build a hose to attach to my Softronics Race Plenum. You may have a different configuration.

What is needed is a hose that attaches to the IVOS outlet (center rear top), and then immediately drops under the inlet hose you just finished. A 90 degree angle is too much, but a flexible straight hose won't bend fast enough. After you've gotten under the inlet hose, a 90 deg bend is needed at the other end to attach to the plenum. None of the angles line up, so a flexible section between the two ends is the best choice.

I took apart my existing Softronics hose and scavenged the adapter, the coupler, and the final 90 deg elbow bend (the elbow is not shown in the following photo). Then I went to the auto parts store to see what they had in stock. I purchased 2 hoses that were not perfect, but that could be trimmed to do the job.



The hose in the upper right is a Gates 19802. The other hose is a Gates 18460. The big hose was trimmed as shown to provide a 45 deg turn at the IVOS outlet to drop under the inlet hose. As usual, trim too long and then come back for a subsequent final trim - the hose gets shorter when it's installed and stretched over the IVOS outlet pipe.

Remove the inlet hose for now to get it out of the way. Then install the reducer to drop down to the smaller hose diameter. Install the 90 deg elbow hose scavenged from the old hose on the plenum, insert the coupler in the photo into the elbow, and then trim the other Gates hose as shown to bridge the gap. I used the bottom portion in the photo to bridge the gap. The top half could be used for the elbow if you don't have an elbow to scavenge. Assemble everything with hose clamps.



Now reinstall the inlet hose.

Ta Da!!



46. As a final step you can hook up the coolant line described in step 10 to the 8mm nipple on the top rear of the IVOS, and then splice a new line from the similar nipple on the front of the IVOS back to the coolant overflow reservoir. K-Man S had this done on his installation, and the following photos are from his gallery:





However, the Porsche Technical Service Bulletin that described this mod for the 986 Boxster states that the 8mm ports can be left open, and that the coolant lines are not needed. All the other early adopters omitted the coolant line. I used rubber caps to cap off the nipples, and did not bother with the coolant line.

You're done. Double check that all the disassembly steps have been reversed, verify that all fasteners and hose clamps are tight, and that nothing is left loose in the engine compartment.

Reinstall the front cover of the engine compartment, but leave the top cover off. Start the engine. Get a flashlight and LOOK for leaks in the engine compartment and on the ground under the engine. Rev the engine for a bit and then go look some more. No leaks? Verify that no tools, rags, or empty beer cans are left behind in the engine compartment, reinstall the engine top cover and go get a cold one.
Keywords: MotorSports Air Oil Vapor Saperator Ingestion

 

Author
spindoc

Porsche Activist

Registered: October 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 390
Review Date: Sat September 13, 2008 Would you recommend the product? No | Price you paid?: None indicated | Rating: 0 
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Wow Fort this is fantastic! I haven't had the smoke issue on track (yet?), but if I do this is where I'll go. Thanks!

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'ringmeister

Porsche Activist

Registered: October 2006
Posts: 300
Review Date: Sat September 13, 2008 Would you recommend the product? No | Price you paid?: None indicated | Rating: 0 
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Another a great article, huge thanks!
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Gator Bite

PCA Register Coordinator

Registered: October 2006
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 7269
Review Date: Tue September 16, 2008 Would you recommend the product? No | Price you paid?: None indicated | Rating: 0 
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Wow.... Big job, nice write up. Hopefully I won't need to use it.

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Gator Bite
PCA Cayman Register Advocate

I don't visit very often. If you'd like to contact me, you can send me an e-mail.
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BillC

Coordinator

Registered: October 2006
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Posts: 997
Review Date: Mon January 12, 2009 Would you recommend the product? No | Price you paid?: None indicated | Rating: 10 
Pros:
Cons:
Have you installed this Product or Mod?: Yes
I just installed the IVOS, and this article was an excellent guide!


However, I decided to try the hose listed in the Porsche Oil Ingestion Fix workshop instructions here. The part number is 996 107 947 00, as shown on the label:


This hose routes ahead of the starter, instead of around/behind the starter like the stock hose. Here's a pic of the fit:


I also modified my SRP, since the new hose's route required that the wire on the start be bent back up vertical (it was originally bent forward a bit to provide clearance from the vacuum port on the plenum). Here's a pic of the underside of the plenum, with the two new vacuum ports:

I probably didn't need to do this, but when you're on a roll....


Anyways, here's a pic of the final install:

I also used a fitting from a left-over hose (from my early plenum experiments) to make the connection from the IVOS to the plenum; could have just re-used the hose that came with the SRP, but since I had the piece....
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BillC

Coordinator

Registered: October 2006
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Posts: 997
Review Date: Sun March 1, 2009 Would you recommend the product? Yes | Price you paid?: None indicated | Rating: 0 
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Have you installed this Product or Mod?:
I just added an article here describing how to make the stock emissions air pump fit with the IVOS.
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FrankinCayman

Porsche Activist

Registered: February 2008
Location: CA
Posts: 456
Review Date: Mon February 22, 2010 Would you recommend the product? Yes | Price you paid?: $355.00 | Rating: 0 
Pros:
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Have you installed this Product or Mod?: Yes
Did the install this weekend on a Cayman with the TPC Turbo installed. ( Search in the forums for pics )


The install went great. Actually after i got in there and started to take it all apart I realized that I did not need to take out the right manifold and fuel rail.


I removed the old VOS ( with had a broken membrane - allowing oil to pour out the TPC baffle on the bottom of the car while on the track ) and was able to fit my dremel in the opening and trim off enough of the air pump to make it fit perfectly.


Thanks guys for the right up and the pics.. Would not be able to do this type of job without everyone's support!

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eXperimental Vehicle = TPC turbo - car wide LED lighting - Magden computer - Traqmate - DNX9140 and more - all self installed. ( with the Great help of many on this board! )

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