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Porsche Chatter
Posts: 15
Registered: February 2006

 

Evolution Motorsports Short Shifter Adapted for Cayman

Reviews Views Date of last review
2 66005 Fri June 21, 2013

 

Recommended By Average Price Average Rating
100% of reviewers None indicated None indicated

 

Description:
I had the EVO Short Shifter in my 2005 Boxster S and felt it was a bit notchy. It also made it difficult to engage reverse and my wife didn't like it at all. It did shorten the throw considerably. I'm also a big fellow and have my seat adjusted all the way back. I find that I have to lean forward or stretch when shifting or reaching for the radio controls. With the throw shortened considerably, I could adjust the lever a lot further back and make it comfortable to shift just using my wrist.

Even with my wife's dissatisfaction with this shifter I decided to order another one, since it's considerably less expensive than the competition and I felt I could modify it to work better. I ordered it directly from EVO http://www.evoms.com/p%20boxster%20swiftshift.htm and used their instructions, which are for an older Boxster, I believe. I do suggest that you read them carefully anyway. They assured me that the shifter would work on the Cayman and except the bearings being a tad too large everything went well. In the end I only had to modify the cage slightly by cutting out a relief for the new linkage to make the shifting much better than in the Boxster. My wife drove the car and was happy with how smooth it shifted and reverse is engaging nicely!

I apologize in advance for the poor picture quality. I only had a couple of hours to do the install and didn't have the time to light things properly.

First, you need to remove the shifter knob. Here is the procedure from a previous post, after which the center console needs removed. K-Man S has a great article on removing the center console here: http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/show...oduct=13&cat=3



Remove cap. Be careful not to damage the leather.



Remove the two T8 Torx screws.



Pull the rear of the knob off. It will be tight!



Twist the collar. There are a couple of detents. Only one will work.



Pull collar down.



Pull the rest of the knob off. It will be tight!

Now, follow K-Man S' procedure for removing the center console: http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/show...oduct=13&cat=3

Once the center console is removed:

Pull back and twist the cable retainer springs and mark the cable ends and shifter neutral position (below), just in case you need some point of reference later.







Pop cable ends out of the linkage ends.



Remove the retaining clips holding the cable housings in the cage.



Pop the cable housings out of the cage.



Remove the four 10mm nuts holding the cage to the chassis.

Shifter cage removed.



Shifter cage top.



Shifter cage bottom.



To remove the plastic bearings you have to cut the snap clips. You can use a sharp utility knife or a sharp chisel and a mallet, which I found works MUCH better.



Same with the rear bearing. You have to continue turning the bearings to get to all the clips. They are tight and click as they turn. Be careful not to score the shifter part that fits into the bearings!



Remove the bearings by simply pulling them out.



Wiggle the shifter to remove from the cage.



Pop off the linkage cable end from the shifter ball.



Linkage comparison.



More comparisons.



Here you can see how the new linkage is going to fit over the cable end.



Unfortunately the bearing seats are quite a bit smaller than the new bearings. This is quickly fixed with a grinding stone. Be very careful not to take off too much material or make the holes oblong or uneven. The new bearings should be tight. I got them to a point where I could just tap them in with a mallet. You will have to remove them after fitting to install the shifter. ***UPDATE*** Before grinding off any material to make bearings fit, put bearings in the freezer for a few hours. Prior to removing bearings from freezer, heat bearing seats with a hair dryer. Combination of heating bearing seats and freezing bearings should make the process of hammering them in place with a rubber/nylon mallet easier. This will also prevent the need to grind or sand away material.



Prepare the shifter and the new bearings by cleaning and lubricating them. I used Lubriplate, which works very well for this type of application. DO NOT install the new linkage as shown in the picture. It will make it difficult to install the shifter in the cage.



Install the shifter back in the cage with the snap rings as shown.



Install both front and rear bearings and snap rings. You will need right angle snap ring pliers. You will also notice a rough cutout in the bottom of the cage. I used tin snips to cut it out. Otherwise there is interference between the cage and the linkage as well as an uncomfortable bend in the cable. This modification is necessary if you want smooth and light shifts.



From the bottom, install the new linkage using Loctite on the inner ball surfaces and the Allen set screw.



Install the cage and tighten the four nuts. Attach the cable ends. Use Loctite on the three Allen set screws. Insert the cable end completely into the new linkage so that the Allen screws catch BEHIND and NOT ON the plastic end. Tighten one of the screws until you can just barely turn the linkage to place that screw on the bottom. Now you can fully tighten the two remaining screws. Using two wrenches tighten the locking nut.



I temporarily replaced some of the upper center console parts so that I could adjust the shifter lever position to my liking.



Here is what the linkage looks like in reverse. You can see that it makes contact with the side of the cage.



Here is the finished product. All you have to do is reinstall the center console.

Following are comparison pictures of "Before and After" shifter lever positions.
Enjoy,

David



Original neutral position.



New neutral position.



Original 3rd gear position.



New 3rd gear position.



Original 4th gear position.



New 4th gear position.
Keywords: EVO Short Shifter Kit Boxster Cayman

 

Author
Slatfatf

Geek

Registered: September 2007
Posts: 1694
Review Date: Fri March 7, 2008 Would you recommend the product? Yes | Price you paid?: None indicated | Rating: 0 
Pros:
Cons:
Have you installed this Product or Mod?:
The above article correctly states that the boot does not slide down the shaft when the collar is turned all the way to the right (clockwise). The correct amount of turn is about 1/2 way between full clockwise and full counterclockwise. There is no tactile feedback at all when it is in the correct position. I found the correct position by turning full clockwise, push shift boot down - no joy, turn back 2 degees, push shift boot down - no joy, turn back 2 degrees, push shift boot down - no joy, etc. until I finally found the correct position and it went right down!! If you're exerting a lot of force then you're not in the correct position. Once the boot was pushed down the knob came right off for me without any heroic force.
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ReadyKW

Porsche Enthusiast

Registered: April 2011
Location: Western U.S.
Posts: 181
Review Date: Fri June 21, 2013 Would you recommend the product? Yes | Price you paid?: None indicated | Rating: 0 
Pros:
Cons:
Have you installed this Product or Mod?:
In regards to the shift knob/boot, I was not able to separate the boot from the knob. By turning the collar fully clockwise until it stops, the knob and boot came off as one unit.
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