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This includes the Accusump, the EPC valve, adapters, mounting clamps, and 35 PSI switch. The components are assembled using teflon tape and look like this assembled.
To tap into the engine oil system I chose to use the Canton 22-566 adapter that mated to my existing LN Engineering spin on filter adapter. 
With the Mantis deep sump I have the oil fliter and adapters fit within the envelope of the deep sump.
Here is a shot of the oil filter installed on the adapter plate with the oil line running forward to the Accusump.
I chose to buy a pre-fabricated AN-10 hose 34 inches long rather than risk a failure from a home made hose. The hose came from Pegasus and consists of a Kevlar AN-10 hose, two straight swaged ends P/N HE201-10-00, thermosleeve P/N 1835-126.
I added some nylon sleeving to protect the hose and thermosleeve as it runs forward to the Accusump. Here is a shot of the Accusump installed in the tunnel, gauge forward and attached to the tunnel by four No. 14 X 3/4 stainless sheet metal screws.
Be sure the hose end of the Accusump is mounted slightly higher than gauge end to allow air bubbles to clear. Here is a shot of the gauge at the forward end of the Accusump. 
To view the pressure gauge after installation a 1 3/4 inch hole covered with clear plastic was cut into the under panel. My initial air pressure setting was 22PSI. Accusump power comes from Fuse C6 through the on off switch via a control panel for the Accusump and my oil pressure and oil temperature gauges shown here. 
The control panel fits into the cubby forward of the gear shift lever. A light is wired to the EPC valve that shows when the Accusump is releasing oil. 
Here is the wiring diagram of the this mod. 
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