SearchCollapse this Category

StatisticsCollapse this Category

Users 31,860
Articles 457
Reviews 1,213
Views 7,225,106

Posting CalendarCollapse this Category

« April 2014
SunMon TueWed ThuFri Sat
  12345
6789101112
13141516171819
20212223242526
27282930   
 



img_2034.jpg
supersize














  • Pin It

Poster Info

Porsche Idealist
Posts: 906
Registered: October 2010
Location: Florida

 

RSS Lower Control Arms

Reviews Views Date of last review
2 3787 Fri May 17, 2013

 

Recommended By Average Price Average Rating
100% of reviewers None indicated None indicated

 

Description:
3/16/13 Update:
I recently received this email from RSS stating they were sending me free of charge updated heavy duty LCA ball joint pin rebuild kit P/N 380:



I spoke to Mike Schalke at RSS today and he explained that they were doing this to educate RSS LCA users that they need to inspect and replace wear parts on the LCAs regularly. Apparently a customer used the RSS LCAs in one car for a season and then removed the LCAs and reinstalled them in another car and had issues. As part of this effort they decided to send users the latest version of the ball joint pin. The ball joint pin is a one time use part. The torque spec sheet has been updated to reflect one time use of the balljoint pin and fastener. He reminded me that Porsche LCAs have a limited lifetime too. Anyway the bottom line is to perform regular checks on the LCAs and adhere to the one time use of the balljoint pins and mounting hardware.

They also sent along a tech bulletin about the importance of doing regular LCA inspections & maintenance. Here is a link to the bulletin on P-9 files section:

http://www.planet-9.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=363



Photos of the new parts are shown below:





I wasn't able to find any short cuts to this job so far having to remove the front LCAs and all the attachments and use the balljoint puller to get the old pin out of the wheel bearing carrier. The balljoint pin needs to be installed into the LCA first before insertion into the wheel bearing carrier. That means removing the following:
-LCA to the cross member bolt is 89 ft lbs. ( A new nut is P/N 999 084 445 01 ) Awesome note #18: since the RSS LCAs use bearings rather than rubber bushing you can tighten them with the car raised rather than have to load the suspension
-Thrust arm bolt is 118 ft lbs ( A new nut is P/N 900 380 012 01 )
-Tierod end is 56 ft lbs
-Sway bar tie link is 37 ft lbs 1st stage, loosen 90 degrees then final tightening to 48 ft lbs
-The RSS LCA "balljoint" nut is 56 ft lbs (use new nut P/N 999 084 449 09 )
-RSS LCA tapered stud locknut is 88 ft lbs (Under the spherical bearing that RSS uses in place of the balljoint-one time use nut, be sure to use a new one )


In the rear I was able to take advantage of the LCA coming apart where the camber shims go avoiding taking the diagonal suspension braces out. I still had to remove the sway bar link, thrust arm and the 'balljoint nut" to get the LCA free. I had to remove my rear brake ducts too.

********************START OF ORIGINAL ARTICLE ********************
This article describes installation of adjustable Road Sport Supply (RSS) front and rear lower control arms (LCA) into my 2007 Cayman 2.7L. Why am I doing this? In order to get to the TPC recommended camber settings with my unlowered car (and TPC sway bars). This will also help preserve my tires at the track. TPC recommended -2.5 degrees in the front and -2.3 degrees in the rear. As I've complained about elsewhere the best we could do with front camber plates was -2.3 degrees in the front and -1.9 degrees in the rear.
*
The installation of the LCAs requires a fair amount of work, a balljoint separator and the usual tools for working on your Cayman ( a way to safely raise the car, metric sockets and torque wrench capable of up to 118 ft lbs).
*
The RSS LCAs are machined things of beauty with the camber adjustable by shims and the caster adjustable by rotating the thrust arm bushing. Here is a photo of the RSS P/N 361 I used on the front of my car.





Each pair of LCAs come with a set of shims (two of each) 7, 3, 2 and 1 mm and a Litronic sensor bracket. As described elsewhere the RSS LCAs are about 1 mm longer than the stock LCAs and each mm of shim is worth about 0.1 degree of camber.

The following photos show the rear LCAs P/N 356. In the rear the thrust arm bushing is thinner. These LCAs fit perfectly and there is no need to shim the thrust arm bushings.







To remove the existing LCAs you will have to remove the balljoints and I wanted to do this without damaging the existing ball joint boots so I purchased a balljoint tool shown here.



The jaws were opened up and shortened on a bench grinder to fit properly (especially the rear balljoints).


Friends at work pointed out Harbor Freight sells a similar piece for about half of what I paid....
*
Here is the updated RSS diagram that comes with the LCAs, used with permission of RSS.



There are several web articles written describing the installation of GT3 LCAs especially L8Apx, wpmjr and I pay homage to them. I could not find an article that showed the RSS LCA installation nor installation of the rear LCAs.
*
To start this escapade I raised the car, put it on jackstands and removed the wheels. Note you will want the rear jackstands a bit forward so you can access the forward bolt of the rear angled suspension support braces that will have to come out to install the rear LCAs.

To replace the LCAs in the front I disconnected the sway bar links, tierod ends, diagonal arm bolts, balljoint nuts and LCA to front cross member bolts. This will allow you to free the LCA from the chassis crossmember and then attach the balljoint tool. I was spared excitement on the right side as the balljoint fell out of the wheel carrier. The left side came out with a pop. In my case I added sufficient shims to the RSS LCA get at least to -2.5 degrees of camber (YMMV). My camber plates will provide the fine tuning to achieve -2.5 degrees of camber. To get the new RSS LCA into the car, I inserted the RSS LCA "balljoint" into the wheel carrier first and then wrestled the RSS LCA into the chassis cross member. Courtesy of Gator Bite, RSS and previous authors the tightening torques I used are as follows:
*
-LCA to the cross member bolt is 89 ft lbs. Use a new nut P/N 999 084 445 01. Awesome note #18: since the RSS LCAs use bearings rather than rubber bushing you can tighten them with the car raised rather than have to load the suspension
-Thrust arm bolt is 118 ft lbs. Use a new nut P/N 900 380 012 01.
-Tierod end is 56 ft lbs
-Sway bar tie link is 37 ft lbs 1st stage, loosen 90 degrees then final tightening to 48 ft lbs
-The RSS LCA "balljoint" nut is 56 ft lbs (use new nut P/N 999 084 449 09 )
-RSS LCA tapered stud locknut is 88 ft lbs (Under the spherical bearing that RSS uses in place of the balljoint- one time use nut, be sure to use a new one)
-RSS LCA monoball end jam nuts 16 ft lbs (Where the shims go)
I used blue thread locker on all the fasteners.
*
Here are some photos of the right front LCA installed.







Here is a diagram of the rear suspension borrowed from Croc'ed post on Cayman Register.




To install the rear LCAs you will have to remove more things to get the LCA out of the "carrier side section & eccentric bolt". If you have brake ducts installed they will have to come out also. So you'll again need to disconnect the sway bar link, toelink and balljoint nut. The axles stay in place thankfully. Now remove the rear angled suspension brace ( AKA item B above) that runs under the LCA inner attachment point in order to get the LCA inner end free of the car. Once the LCA is free at the inner end you can turn it so the balljoint tool can be used to remove the balljoint from the wheel carrier.

A word to the wise: I tried to remove the inner end of rear LCA without removing rear angled suspension brace. In so doing I managed to get the parking brake engaged. This was caused by the lefthand cable coming out of the plastic body feed through tube and resting on the side of the tube, effectively engaging the parking brake. Thanks to Gatorbite for shaping my troubleshooting path on this easily fixed problem.



Another discovery is that the parking brake cables cross over onto the bracket that is attached to the hand brake lever. When looking down from above at the cables in the console the left wheel brake cable is on the right side in the console.



The rear RSS LCA goes back in a similar fashion to the front: RSS LCA "balljoint" into the wheel carrier first and then wrestle the LCA into the carrier side section. In my crusade to rid the rear suspension of eccentric adjusting bolts I chose to use a Tarett Engineering locking plate kit LKPLT01. The kit is shown here with Ira's permission and is actually for use with the rear toelinks, just picture the LCA inner end rather than the toelink.



When ordering this kit you have to tell Ira to send you 120 mm long bolts rather than the 100 mm bolts. RSS recommends keeping the eccentric stock bolts for fine adjustment. (YMMV) Here are a few shots of the toe link locking plate installed.





-LCA to the Tarett locking plate bolt is 74 ft lbs
-Thrust arm bolt is 118 ft lbs. Use a new nut P/N 900 380 012 01
-Toelink is 56 ft lbs
-Sway bar tie link is 37 ft lbs 1st stage, loosen 90 degrees then final tightening to 48 ft lbs
-The RSS LCA "balljoint" nut is 56 ft lbs (use new nut P/N 999 084 449 09 )
-RSS LCA tapered stud locknut is 88 ft lbs (Under the spherical bearing that RSS uses in place of the balljoint- one time use nut, use a new one)
-RSS LCA monoball end jam nuts 16 ft lbs (Where the shims go)
-rear angled suspension brace nuts and bolts ( AKA item B above) 48 ft lbs
Again I used blue thread locker on all the fasteners.

Here are a few shots of the rear LCA installed.






*
I roughly set the toe using toe plates for the ride to the alignment shop.
*
UPDATE: My rear brake ducts ( P/N 996.331.127.90 Left; 996.331.128.90 Right ) had to be modified to clear the RSS LCA thrust arm hardware, trimming the inner ends as well as cutting slots to use TIE WRAPS to re-attach the brake ducts to the RSS LCAs.





Leave the brake ducts off the car until the alignment is completed as they will be in the way if the caster needs adjustment by turning the thrust arm bushing. The brake ducts go on from the forward side of the LCA so the rear sway bar link to LCA clearance is not an issue.

Here are the alignment results achieved with the LCAs:



The ride is firmer but no suspension noises. I'm looking forward to my next DE.
Sponsor Website: (if applicable): N/A
Link to Forum Topic about this item: (if applicable): http://www.planet-9.com/cayman-boxst...ll-info-s.html
Keywords: Lower Control Arms, LCAs, increased negative camber

 

Author
rubber_ducky

Site Donor

Registered: September 2007
Location: Boston-ish, MA
Posts: 3525
Review Date: Fri December 16, 2011 Would you recommend the product? Yes | Price you paid?: None indicated | Rating: 0 
Pros:
Cons:
Have you installed this Product or Mod?:
Looks like only two photos were published?


Which rear brake ducts are you using? The 996TT units?
This user is online
GreggT
Porsche Person

Registered: June 2009
Posts: 4
Review Date: Fri May 17, 2013 Would you recommend the product? Yes | Price you paid?: None indicated | Rating: 0 
Pros:
Cons:
Have you installed this Product or Mod?: Yes
"3/16/13 Update:

I recently received this email from RSS stating they were sending me free of charge updated heavy duty LCA ball joint pin rebuild kit P/N 380:"




If the ones sent free were 'updated heavy'.....I wonder if LCA's shipped last fall when were 'old version'. Does it sound like they are suggesting even those LCA now go through this rebuild?
This user is offline


Powered by: Reviewpost vB4 Enhanced
Copyright 2013 All Enthusiast, Inc.