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TTP (Turbo Technik Pietz) Oil Saver Kit (Twin Oil Pump)
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Date product posted
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1706
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Wed March 7, 2012
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Description:
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I purchased a 987CS back in November and am currently preparing it for track use. I've been tracking my 986S and enjoying it, so I decided to move on to the CS, but wanted to beef up the oiling system before any serious track time.
This article details the installation of the TTP twin oil pump for the passenger side cylinder head. I used a lot of tips from CBRacerX's engine drop thread, so please use that reference as well if I leave anything out. The main difference is that I performed the install with the engine still in the car and figured an article may be useful for those considering this route. What follows is an illustrated list of the steps I took to install the pump. Please use these at your own risk and consider the tools and skills required before attempting this job. On to the install:
Step 1: Jack up the car both front and rear and place it level on some sturdy jack stands.
Step 2: Drain the oil.
Step 3: Remove rear underside panel, wheel well plastic covers + rear mud guards, and suspension braces.
(Before removal)
(After removal)
Step 4: Remove passenger side of the exhaust
I found it easier to remove the header first, followed by the rear section. Start by removing the 3 nuts at the rear section / header flange. One of the nuts is not visible in the picture because it is on the opposite side of the flange.
Then remove the header bolts to separate the header from the cylinder head. The header is slightly heavy, so don't be surprised by the weight as you free up the bolts. Make sure to free the O2 sensor cables to allow the header to come all the way down to the floor.
Working at the rear, remove the exhaust tip by undoing the collar and then loosen the 2 collars that connect the right side rear section to the connector pipes (not really sure what they're called).
I found it easier to also loosen the collar of the top connector pipe on the left hand side rear section, which allowed me to slide the whole connector pipe over an inch or so, thus giving more clearance for the removal of the right rear section. Finally, separate the rear section from the exhaust support braket and drop it out. Some wiggling may be necessary.
Here is a view of the rear with the right rear section removed.
Step 5: Remove the cross member
Start by unclipping the O2 sensor connectors from the top of the cross member. Do this on both side. The picture below illustrates the right side, showing the cross member clip after the O2 cable connector has been removed. The driveshaft runs right below and should help you locate it.
Next, remove the 2 metal cables that secure the crankcase to the cross member. Picture below taken from driver's side.
Now, remove the 2 bolts that hold the cross member to the suspension. Do this on both sides. Picture below shows the passenger side bolts.
Lower the cross member to the floor and away from the car. It's not very heavy.
Step 6: Remove the oil pump from the side of the head.
It is held in place by 4 torx bolts.
Step 7: Strip the valve cover of everything including ignition coils and camshaft position solenoid flanges and remove it.
Shown below is the valve cover with the 2 flanges removed.
Next, yank the 2 solenoids out. One came out by hand through a circular, outward motion. The second one protrudes less and I had to resort to using a pair of pliers. Make sure that you don't damage the surface of the sensor because you need the new flange to seal properly later on. Basically the solenoids are just popped it and held in there by some rubber o-rings. This will be obvious once removed. Tip: In order to remove the valve cover I found it useful to give myself more room at the top by removing the single bolt at the bottom of the coolant expansion tank and sliding it upward (no coolant pipes disconnected). I also removed the engine compartment fan shield (2 bolts) and the single bolt that holds the fan in place at the top, accessing it through the top of the engine compartment. This allowed me to slide the fan up as well, giving more clearance to the top of the valve cover.
Step 8: Drill the valve cover to accept the oil line fitting supplied by TTP.
I used a set of high quality metal drill bits and cutting fluid. Instead of hand holding a drill, I used a drill press to make sure the hole would be perfectly perpendicular to the surface of the valve cover. Per CBRacerX's suggestions, I used a 1/8" bit to drill a pilot hole and then a 7/16" bit to drill the actual hole. The oil fitting supplied by TTP has a 1/4" NPT thread, so a 7/16" hole is the correct one to drill per the NPT spec chart. I know that 1/4" < 7/16", but for some reason NPT measures the inner diameter (ID) of the fitting, so the outside diameter is actually larger than 7/16". Next, tap the hole with the 1/4" PIPE tapper. I got my pipe tapper at Lowes and also spent some time there making sure that my oil fitting would indeed fit into something tapped by a 1/4" pipe tapper. Finally screw the fitting down into the threaded hole. I used Permatex white thread sealant, which seemed to me to be the correct product for the application. See the Permatex spec sheet here: http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/56521.pdf
The picture below shows the fitting installed (bottom left of the valve cover since we're looking at it from the back).
Step 9: Prepare everything for reinstallation
Make sure to clean the leftover gasket from both the head and valve cover and degrease the mating surfaces.
Replace the o-rings on the camshaft solenoids. Not sure what their real names are - sorry. All o-ring part #s are in the picture below.
Here are all the other components you need to reinstall the valve cover. I replaced the 3 camshaft end caps (2x 996-104-215-54, 1x 996-104-216-02), the camshaft journal bolts (8x 999-385-003-01) since they were coated with something - I'm sure I could have reused the old ones with new, blue Loctite, and the 3 spark plug tube gaskets (3x 996-104-203-00). I also cleaned the remaining valve cover bolts with a wire brush.
Finally, I installed the spark plug tube gaskets and lubed the camshaft journals and lobes with Porsche assembly grease.
Step 10: Reinstall the valve cover
You'll need Loctite 5900 to recreate the gasket. The 5900 starts curing in 5 minutes, so it's best to have all the necessary parts on hand, once you start spreading the 5900 bead. The picture below illustrates exactly how the 5900 should be spread out.
NOTE - this picture is from CBRacerX's gallery. All credit goes to him!
Next, install the valve cover and tighten down the bolts in the sequence shown below. The torque I used was 13Nm. I think this is the correct torque per CBRacerX's comments, but I've never seen the spec myself.
NOTE - this picture is from CBRacerX's gallery. All credit goes to him!
Install the TTP twin oil pump! Don't connect the hose at this point if you're going to slide some insulation onto the hose. I also used Permatex white thread sealant on the 4 bolts supplied by TTP for the pump. Later on, while trying to install the cross member, I realized that one of the bolts was too close, so I ground it down.
I used oil line insulation from Longacre, shown on the right, below. In my opinion the one I ordered is too wide. I didn't realize it stretches, so I ordered one that would go over the fittings.
Next, reinstall everything onto the valve cover. This includes the solenoids, which need to be popped in with new o-rings, the ignition coils, and the insulated TTP oil line.
Step 11: Finish up
(a) Reinstall the cross member. Here is the clearance to the TTP pump and the ground-down bolt.
(b) Reinstall the exhaust using new gaskets. Cylinder head to header gasket PN is 996-111-107-55. Header to rear section gasket PN is 997-111-113-00. I also replaced the bolts that hold the header to the cylinder head (6x 999-075-074-00).
Reinstall all underside panels, mud guards, suspension braces, etc.
(c) Add oil. I used a magnetic drain plug from LN to catch any metal shavings.
You are done! I waited 12 hours before starting the engine to make sure the 5900 had cured. I drove for 200 miles and then performed an oil change to get rid of any metal shavings / old bits of gaskets that I may not have been able to clean out. A thorough inspection of the oil filter showed that I was right to do so. There were a few bits of gasket in there. I'm also going to run a shorter interval on the current oil.
Update: I tracked the car recently at Summit Point, WV for the first time, and had no issues whatsoever.
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oil starvation TTP twin pump |
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Newbie
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Posts: 3
Registered: February 2012
Location: Virginia
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