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Admin & Founder
Posts: 29,785
Registered: August 2005
Location: Overland Park, Kansas, United States

 

Farnbacher Loles / TeamTech / Brey Krause Harness bar, Harness and Mounting Hardware

Reviews Views Date of last review
4 58436 Mon December 31, 2012

 

Recommended By Average Price Average Rating
100% of reviewers $250.00 10.0

 

Description:
Some of you may recall my previous article where I installed a different harness bar. Well I'm back with yet another variety, this time the DMC Components bar sold through Farnbacher-Loles. Why do more than one harness bar install? Well we want to provide as much info as possible here at the Cayman Club so I wanted to run through the entire install again, this time with all the hardware I needed to get the harness in. This was an opportunity to showcase yet another option available for our Caymans. One item I did not get to show in this install is the camera mount that DMC makes specifically for this bar. I'm going to show that in a follow-up article.

A good place to start is the prior article because I will not be re-showing all of the steps from that article here even though many of them apply. For example taking the plastic seat belt caps off. The prior article can be found here: http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/show...ct=113&cat=all Please go read that article first and keep it handy to refer to, then come back here to read about the specifics for this install.

Here is what my car looked like before installing this bar. You'll notice a lot of the interior pieces are already out because they are off being painted and have not yet been reinstalled. That simply made this easier, but again the prior article will show you how to get the parts removed that you need to in order to get this bar installed. DMC also offers instructions but unfortunately my box was missing them. They were kind enough to fax me another copy, but having done another bar I just needed a sanity check on a couple of parts, nothing more.


Here is a close-up of the top of the seat belt mount where the bar is going to go, the bolt with the red line on it will have to be removed as per the other install.


Here is the bar, center mounting plate and hardware that I've taken out of the box.


The first step for most of you will be removing the end seat belt caps and if you want to, drilling a hole in them for the bar to mount through. My prior bar included an extra set so no drilling was required and honestly I'd probably recommend picking up an extra set if you feel the need to have these on. For me whenever I mount my harness bar I'm just going to leave the cap pieces off. My cap pieces are going to be painted anyway and I'm not about to drill those.

My first step was, therefore, mounting the aluminum center bracket to the bar via the 3 bolts and nuts provided. The bar has slots so the aluminum piece can be moved either way as needed to line up the holes and later mount in the car. I just finger tightened these for now, later they will get snugged down.


Here is the back side of the same piece showing the nuts. This piece was a very nicely machined piece of aluminum, some very good quality workmanship here.


This next photo shows where the spacers go that will sit under the aluminum bracket. Normally there would be a plastic piece here over the carpet, but again mine is out being painted so it's not in these photos. The spacers go over the same holes that the factory luggage retainer bar bolts into, later bolts will go through the aluminum bracket, through these spacers and into the body of the car.


The next step is to simply position the bar with attached aluminum bracket in the car. This is one of the areas where this bar shines in comparison to the prior unit I installed. Since the ends of the bars don't mount right on top of the seatbelt bracket and since the aluminum bracket in the center has holes that can be used to line up the bar, getting this bar into position was a snap, almost too easy.


With the bar lined up it was no problem to drop the long bolt down through the bar, through the supplied spacer, through the seatbelt bracket and into the body of the car where the threads grab. There was no struggling to line up the holes, the spacer really made it easy to position the bar. One other benefit is that the spacer has a much smaller diameter ( 1" ) vs. the bar end cap ( 2-1/2"-3" ) so if you do decide to drill your shoulder cap pieces the holes will be smaller. There is a pattern included with the bar to help you drill the holes if you want. The prior bar came with pre-drilled pieces but the holes were so large that the plastic snapped because there was so little plastic left after being drilled out at the end. Again, whether or not you drill or simply remove the shoulder cap pieces is up to you, mine are of course out being painted. Here is a close up of the bar, spacer and mounting point:


The next step is to insert the screws that go through the aluminum plate and short spacer before going into the body of the car behind the seat where the luggage bracket used to be. BTW after I painted my rear plastic pieces speed yellow I attached a foam padding to the bottom of the aluminum piece to prevent any chance of marking up the painted plastic. Not shown in these photos.


Of course you will then proceed to tighten everything down, don't forget the bolts holding the aluminum plate to the bar. The directions had torque specs as well, since I knew I was going to be removing this bar to reinstall my interior pieces before my next track event I didn't torque them, just brought them down snug for the sake of this article. Here are some pictures:





One of the issues I had with my previous harness bar was that during a track event a passenger of mine slammed the seat back before I could stop him and the back of the sport seat was damaged by the bar. It took a custom interior painter with some serious paint matching skills to fix my seat. I did not want to see a repeat of that again so as you can see in this next picture there is no way for the back of the seat to hit this bar.


Last time I only was able to install a portion of my harness because the harness did not come with the proper hardware for the lap or sub belts to be installed. In the interim I called around and found that Brey Krause made hardware for the lap belts but that their sub bar hardware won't work with the manual sport seats. I contacted our friends at Mantis Sport and they sent me one of their sub bars to try. The first step was to install the shoulder belts, a process identical to the last harness install. Here are some pictures of the shoulder belts going in.


One other item I liked about this harness bar that was missing from the prior one was that this bar had the little metal loops to feed the belts through and to hold them in position. BTW the backs of the sport seats look good now don't they? You'd never guess they had been damaged previously.


Here is the upper portion of the harness installed. The harness is a TeamTech harness which includes not only the padding but also the sternum latch that keeps both halves together so they cannot separate and fall off your shoulders on the track. Normally belts would feed through holes in a racing seat (like a GT3 seat) and you wouldn't have to worry about it. If you are going to use stock seats you MUST get a harness of this kind.


Ok now it is time to get that seat hardware installed for the lap belts and sub belts or just lap belts if you are going with a 4pt harness, but I chose to go with a 6pt. Here is the hardware from Brey Krause. Although it is made for the 986/996 series, according to Brey Krause it works for 987/997 and after my install I would say that does seem to be the case, at least with sport seats, I can't speak for the regular seats so be sure and check with Brey Krause if you have the regular seats. This first picture is the hardware that mounts where the factory seat belt mounts and as you can see has detailed instructions on how to do the install. The directions show a spacer that is needed (and included) for a Boxster/Cayman install. Our cars come with this spacer from the factory so no need to use the one in the kit.


This next picture is of the bracket that attaches to the seat on the inside (center tunnel side) of the seat.


Although screws, washers and nuts were included in the photo above, I did not use them. There were no instructions included with these brackets, but I called one of my Boxster buddies and he confirmed that my suspected install method was indeed correct.

I decided it would be a lot easier to get these brackets on if I took the seat out of the car. Additionally, the Mantis sub bar required at least lifting the front of the seat anyway. So I decided to remove it and got started. The first step is to remove the little plastic pieces that are clipped to the front seat brackets, there is a little tab you pull up and the piece slides right off. Here both are shown off.


This will reveal the E-12 star bolts that hold down the seat brackets. You can buy those sockets at Wal-mart or Sears so make sure you have one. Unbolt the 2 front bolts, the 2 rear bolts and then reach under the seat and pull the retaining clip on the wire harness outwards (towards center tunnel) and the wiring harness plastic block will come out. Unclip it from the seat bracket and take the seat out of the car. I always use a towel to cover the door sill so that it won't get scratched up. Here the seat is out of my car.


I started with the tunnel side bracket first, so the next two pictures show the seat before and after the bracket has been installed. It was simply removing one bolt, placing the bracket back on and tightening the bolt down.


and now installed...


Apologies for the quality of this next photo, it simply shows the bracket in place where the seat belt mounts. There were instructions with this piece so it was easy to follow, just don't worry about that one spacer as our cars already have it.


The last thing I needed to install was the front sub bar. Mantis supplied one, but as seems to be common in the Cayman market right now, without instructions. I saw no way to mount this bar on top of where the seat brackets were, so the only thing I could figure out was that the sub bar lays down first then the seat brackets on top of the bar and the seat bolts go down through both to tighten into the body of the car. This made mounting the bolts more difficult but I managed to get it done. Perhaps Ernie or someone from Mantis can confirm that this procedure is correct. Here is the pic, as you can see the bar is flattened towards the seat bracket ends and the lever arm used for sliding the seat forward and back will clear the bar.


At this point what was left was simply attaching and adjusting the two lap belts to the Brey Krause brackets and then the sub belts to the Mantis Sport sub bar. First here is the upper portion of the harness slung over the seat.


Finally here are all the belts installed and yours truly locked into position.


I drove the car aound a little bit to see how it felt and again with a harness bar installed the car seems stiffer to me. The harness held me in the seat better than a Letterman velcro suit and the padding was very comfortable. I'm looking forward to using this harness at my next track event. Here's where to get everything shown in this article:

Harness Bar - Farnbacher-Loles www.farnbacher-loles.com
Harness - TeamTech
Seat Hardware - Brey Krause
Sub Bar - Mantis Sport - www.mantisautomotive.com

Any questions please post them in the Forum, and please take a minute to rate this article and leave your comments using the link below! Thanks!
Keywords: harness bar farnbacher loles teamtech brey krause dmc roll cage

 

Author
RedEye

Porsche Purist

Registered: January 2006
Location: Alberta
Posts: 1144
Review Date: Wed November 8, 2006 Would you recommend the product? Yes | Price you paid?: None indicated | Rating: 10 
Pros:
Cons:
Have you installed this Product or Mod?:
Ken - will you be able to put the painted plastic piece back on with the bar in place?
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K-Man S

Admin & Founder

Registered: August 2005
Location: Overland Park, Kansas, United States
Posts: 29785
Review Date: Tue November 14, 2006 Would you recommend the product? Yes | Price you paid?: None indicated | Rating: 0 
Pros:
Cons:
Have you installed this Product or Mod?:
You'd have to cut a hole in it, that's true for any of these harness bars. I didn't want to do that so I swap the part on and off.

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K-Man S
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quickxotica

Site Donor

Registered: May 2006
Posts: 104
Review Date: Sat February 3, 2007 Would you recommend the product? Yes | Price you paid?: None indicated | Rating: 10 
Pros: fit and finish, quality
Cons: none yet
Have you installed this Product or Mod?:
I did this same install: DMC harness bar and Teamtech belts with the Brey Kraus inner belt mounting pieces. It's a great solution for those not wanting to install a cage and GT3 seats. I will post some pictures of the passenger side install since I encountered a couple of issues there which are not discussed in this article. Also, I wish to point out that the pictures in the article appear to show the Brey Krause inner seat belt mount being installed backwards, which could be dangerous (since it might spin 180 degrees in a crash and thereby suddenly introduce 6-10 inches of slack to the lap belt). Following the instructions included with the Brey Krause peices, I installed the mounts pointing upward alongside the factory seat belt receiver, rather than pointing toward the rear of the car. On my 2007 car (on the passenger side only) there is also a plastic trim peice which must be filed down in order to clear the Brey Krause inner belt mount.

Here is the correct orientation of the lap belt mount:

http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/file...007_776069.JPG




Here is the plastic trim peice that needs to be shaved down a bit in order to clear the inner lap belt mount:http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/file...small_0006.JPG


Another installation detail not mentioned in the article is that the bolts retaining the factory luggage bar have 12-point torx heads for 2007, for which drivers are not available at Sears, ACE hardware or Kragen. In fact I couldn't find them anywhere, and a regular Torx driver will strip the bolt, so in order to remove the bolts I had to use an Allen key driver AND clamp the edges of the bolt head with a large vice-grips, and then CAREFULLY apply counterclockwise pressure (after soaking the bolts in WD40 and tapping them with a wrench to work it in) which lucky worked. The replacement bolts included with the DMC bar are regular allen type, so that's good.
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Targa74

Porsche Chatter

Registered: June 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 26
Review Date: Mon December 31, 2012 Would you recommend the product? Yes | Price you paid?: $250.00 | Rating: 0 
Pros: Great pictures, descriptions
Cons: Can't find previous article
Have you installed this Product or Mod?: Planned
You refer to a previous article where you installed a different bar for description of removal of factory trim, but I cannot locate the article. Just purchased used DMC bar here on P-9 and looking forward to installation. How did you like yours over time? Can you help me locate the prior article, or a similar one with first part of install? Also, I have Brey Krause fire extinguisher mount on front of driver sport seat. Any suggestions on mounting sub belts? Thanks!
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