Planet-9

Blitzkrieg atmo 355 Powerpak

Mon, 06 May 2013 08:48:31 -0500

by: BJR

Description: TPC Racing, has been working hard on the dyno tuning the 981 S. They have come up with the TPC Racing Blitzkrieg Atmo 355 Powerpak that consists of a flash, silicon plenum induction kit, performance plenum and 82mm throttle body. Due to the encryption with the 981, TPC Racing is using a UniChip to help with the tuning. The plenum being used is 1/3 greater than stock as well the throttle body is 8mm larger. With just these parts, they have seen a gain of 24whp! [COLOR="Blue"][B]The Blitzkrieg atmo 355 Powerpak Install[/B][/COLOR] The kit Consists of: - 997 Plenum - 997 82mm Throttle Body - 997 Oil Breather hose - 997 82mm Throttle Body / Plenum O ring. - Silicon bifurcated air duct - UniChip containing the tune - Y harness for the Canbus This is quite a lengthy install due to the requirement to dismantle quite a bit of the car and some fiddling to get the components to fit in some tight locations. It would be a much easier install the second time around once you know what you have to do. I hope this thread will assist those that install this kit. Many thanks to Harris at TPC racing for responding to our questions very quickly. I will not go into the detail of how to dismantling the car as quite frankly I was not involved directly in this part of the install. Basically the requirement is to open the car up to gain access to the top of the engine to replace the plenum and throttle body, and removing the trunk lining and protective inner panels to gain access to the rear electronics to fit the ECU and Y Harness. [B]Plenum and Throttle Body Install.[/B] The 997 Plenum has different locations for the Breather and Vent hose connections to the 981 Plenum. And does not have a connector for the Vario Ram / Resonance flap that is driven by a vacuum pump. These are the first set of issues that you need to be aware of. Looking from the throttle body towards the plenum. The 981 Plenum has the oil breather hose connector on the lefthand side and the vent on the top. The 997 Plenum has the oil breather hose connector on the righthand side and the vent on the lefthand side. See pictures below. Bottom is the 981 Plenum and Throttle Body, top the 997. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/picture.php?albumid=1392&pictureid=8195[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/picture.php?albumid=1392&pictureid=8194[/img] The throttle bodies are also rotated 180 degrees differently on the units. Supplied in the Kit is the 997 oil breather hose. It is a plastic tube with a number of elbow flexible joints that are pre formed for fitting in a 997. This tube needs to be reformed to fit the the configuration in the 981. You must fit the Oil Breather tube to the Plenum end first and route it via a different route to its receptacle, than the route of the 981 breather tube. The first elbow joint at the plenum end needs to be bent back on itself quite significantly. I little bit of heat here helps to perform the bend. (Do not melt the tube). The receptacle end of the tube needs to be rotated to fit the receptacle. (Rotated at the connector) Follow the route in the pictures below. [ATTACH]30615[/ATTACH][ATTACH]30616[/ATTACH] The next challenge is to fit the bifurcation air duct. The reason this is a challenge is the TPC air duct is of race quality and the OEM is not. It is made of a very compressible plastic and designed for easy removal and reinstallation. (aid in service and maintenance times) The OEM duct is very flexible and can be crushed by hand to allow it to be placed in the confined space available. The TPC duct is stiff and will not flex which is what you want in an input air duct but makes it very difficult to install. The TPC duct is stiff so is provided with additional length at the throttle body end to allow for differences between cars. This needs to be trimmed off so it exactly fits your installation. Do not over-trim and remove small lengths at at time a retry fitting to get it correct. (over-trimming will require a new duct.) Once the Plenum, Throttle body and duct is in place you can connect up the hoses and cabling. The tube from the vacuum pump to the plenum needs to be blocked off. We used a screw and epoxy to seal the tube. For the wire cabling to the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) we removed it from its harness and rerouted to make the installation neater. See pictures above. Once the engine intake parts install has been completed you can tackle the Unichip install. [B]UniChip and Y Harness install.[/B] You need to dismantle the trunk liner and inner protection panels to gain access to the electronics. You then need to locate a suitable place to insert the Y harness and mount the Unichip. This is a very tight area. This area is where a lot of the optional electronics is mounted. i.e. in my case the TV tuner. There was very little area available to mount the additional equipment in my car. We had to reroute a number of cables to find a space for the Y harness and we cut a location box in the foam to mount the Unichip. The good news is that if it can fit in my car with all the options it will fit in any car. Picture of the area below. [ATTACH]30617[/ATTACH] [B]Final Installation Step.[/B] Once the car has been reassembled the last step is to do a throttle adaption. This allows the car to recognise the new 997 28mm Throttle Body. This it does almost immediately with no issues. The installation is then complete. Enjoy your new performance improvements. [B]The End Result and the Performance Data.[/B] [B]The End Result[/B] The dealer forman drove the car up out of the garage and on to the forecourt at 10:30am this morning. It attracted a crowd, even before it exited the garage. Nobody had heard anything like this before. He then took it for a [B]"run"[/B];) I did not think I was possible to get a better sound out of a 981 than I was getting from the PSE and Fabspeed headers. Boy was I wrong. It is now Louder:eek:, throatier,:eek: and the burbles and pops are way more pronounced.:dance: And you get much more intake noise, its sweet, I guess it gulps much more air now through that 997 plenum and bigger throttle body. Feedback from the Forman. The car performs noticeably better, its performance on the road is at least that of a 991 Carrera.:burnout: And the sound it makes is awesome.:kiss: So I then drove it to the Tuners. Wow I loved it. [B]Performance Data[/B] [U][I]Firstly a few words of wisdom, and caveats on the numbers.[/I][/U] You will often see manufacturers of performance parts and tunes quote figures based on their prototype implementations, and these are based on the prototype vehicle that they have been installed and developed on. It is very difficult for others to achieve the same results with different cars. Also dynos vary in quality and capability and you can often see vast differences moving the same car from dyno to dyno. and from city to city at different altitudes and temperatures. We have used the most advanced Dyno in the world (Only 1 of these currently exists in Australia.) It is a Maha Dyno. (Maschinenbau Haldenwang) and has full Porsche Certification. Accurate to +- 1% The gains I will be quoting are modified (Calculated) to take in air pressure, temperature, etc to DIN standard [B]DIN70020[/B]. i.e. we have gone through the same process a Vehicle / Engine manufacturer would do to be able to claim specific performance statistics so a comparison can be drawn between different vehicles in different locations and climates. Actual power statistics from my car today were lowered by 4+ HP when the DIN70020 standards were applied. Also the TPC tune is baselined for a 981S Manual with Standard exhaust. My car is PDK, Fabspeed Sports Headers and Sports Cats and the OEM PSE exhaust. With the assistance of TPC I could achieve a much better tune. TPC actually sent me a conservative tune to ensure that there was no potential for damage due to being a remote (from them) installation.:thanks: Lastly it is very difficult to get significant returns from tuning a normally aspirated engine, Turbocharging is where you can make significant gains as seen by the TPC Turbo reports and details in this forum. So the information provided is conservative, but most importantly, very, very accurate. [I][U]Now for the actual numbers.[/U][/I] Firstly you need to look at the full dyno graphs to appreciate what the change does to your cars actual driving performance. Where the power bands appear, How does this interact with you gear ratios, etc Not look for just the bump in top end HP figures. The graphs will be in the full report. Comparison: Standard Car vs Modified (Fabspeed headers + Blitzkrieg kit) General info plus some highlights. Significant Torque improvements from 1800 revs through to 4200 revs. Torque almost identical from 4200 to 4800 Standard car starts to lose torque and trails off at 4800 revs with a bump at 5800 revs where it hits peak. Modified car starts to dip as per standard at 4800 revs but then climbs significantly at 5400 revs and holds flat all the way to 6600 revs. The improvements HP and Torque are from 4800 revs to 7400 revs with the biggest improvement band between 5800 to 6800 revs. What this means: In strait out acceleration you are changing gears and dropping strait back into the power improvements in the next higher gear. :dance: great for the track. The low end improvements is right were you spend most of your time daily driving. Sweet. The actual MAX gains. DIN 70020 adjusted. Now please understand that these gain equivalents are at the best power and torque for the standard car and modified car but they occur at different revs. If you took the modified cars maximums and then compared with the statistics of the standard car at those same revs the gains would be significantly higher. This is why you need to understand the full dyno chart and what it actually means to the driving experience. [B]Standard Car.[/B] Max Power = 309.9 BHP @ 7530 Revs Max Torque = 340.7NM @ 5860 Revs [B]Modified Car.[/B] Max Power = 328.6 BHP @ 7300 Revs Max Torque = 350.2NM @ 5915 Revs Max Gains. Power = 18.7 BHP Torque = 9.5 NM = 7 lb/ft So basically Max power comes in at lower revs and torque holds out longer into higher revs. To place my car in a comparison in HP PS with the 981S and 991. 981 S = 315 HP PS LG#1 = 333.2 HP PS 991 = 350 HP PS [B]Dyno Chart Data PDFs below.[/B] [ATTACH]30612[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]30613[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]30614[/ATTACH] [B]Q & A[/B] [B]Q[/B] "Given I have now completed the work and seen / experienced the end results would I do this over again?" [B]A[/B] "In a hearbeat.:dance: I love this kit. TPC have a real winner here. [B]Q[/B] "Would I get the same results as you with my car?" [B]A[/B] "If you have the standard exhaust or the TPC-Maxflo Valve exhaust you will get better results as the tunes for the Blitzkrieg kit are done specifically for those configurations." [B]Q[/B] "Are you doing anything else to the install to improve the results?" [B]A[/B] "We are looking to see if a 991 plenum can be installed to take advantage of the Resonance Flap. We would need assistance from TPC to retune to the 991 Plenum, Fabspeed Sports Headers and Cats and the OEM PSE exhaust." I will also attach a sound clip of the exhaust once my microphone turns up for my GoPro Black edition camera. Finally: To Harris and the TPC team. :thanks: :thanks: :thanks:

TS-POR-009

Sat, 04 May 2013 14:51:56 -0500

by: Rob VN

Description: This article discusses the installation of Torque Solutions sport trans axle mounts into my 2007 Cayman 2.7L. The sport mounts keep the trans axle from moving around as much as the stock mounts and tightens up the handling of the car. The down side is that more NVH is introduced into the cabin. I am pleased to report the increase is tolerable and no where near the NVH the sport engine mount introduced into the cabin. You sense more of what the engine is doing on deceleration and various RPMs. Our engines are not silky smooth but the stock mounts do a fantastic job keeping NVH out of the cabin. I also hear more of the exhaust sounds at higher RPMs which I do not find objectionable. A pair of Torque Solution TS-POR-009 were purchased through Sparktecmotorsports.com ( no affiliation ). They are bit lower cost than the WEVO and use the 75 hardness bushings. The mounts as received are shown here. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/as_received.jpg[/img] This installation requires the car to be safely lifted at the rear to gain access to the stock trans axle mounts. A bench vise is also needed to swap the mounts. Common metric tools are required with the exception of an E24 box wrench or socket to get the nut off of the stock mount. The E24 wrench or socket is not a common item so borrow or buy one. I used one made by Gearwrench shown here which I probably got at Amazon. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/torx_wrench.jpg[/img] The trans axle will need to be supported as the mount is removed, one side at a time as shown here. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/jacking_trans.jpg[/img] With the trans axle supported by the jack under the muffler bracket the two bolts that attach the stock mount to the chassis are removed. A fairly short 13 mm box wrench is used on top and a 13 mm universal socket on a long extension is used to remove the nuts from below. Here is a shot of the LHS rear bolt ( with thread locker on it ). [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/lhs_installed.jpg[/img] The forward bolts must be accessed from the forward side of the mount because the stock mount blocks access from the rear. Once the two bolts are out then the two bolts attaching the triangle bracket to the trans axle are removed. The LHS has these bolts shielded by the triangle bracket. Here are a couple of shots using a 15 mm socket and universal to get these bolts out. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/removing_upper_bolt_lhs.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/lhs_removing_lower_attachment_bolt.jpg[/img] The RHS is a straight shot because the bolts aren't shielded by the triangle bracket as shown here. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/removing_rhs_lower_bolt.jpg[/img] Here is the stock LHS mount and triangle bracket removed from the car. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/lhs_stock_mount_and_triangle_bracket.jpg[/img] Place the triangle mount in a vise clamping on the "socket" where the mount goes. Don't just clamp the triangle bracket into the vise as you can bend the bracket. Use the E24 wrench or socket to remove the nut of the stock mount. When you are done you will have the empty triangle bracket shown here. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/triangle_bracket_close_up.jpg[/img] When fitting the Torque Solution mount into the triangle bracket it was discovered a little work with a file was required to shave the square down to fit into the triangle bracket. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/field_mod_in_vise.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/field_mod_1.jpg[/img] Once the field mod is completed then the new mount's threaded rod is tightened using some blue thread locker. Insert the new mount into the triangle bracket and use the E24 wrench or socket and blue thread locker to attach it to the triangle bracket. The torque value is 63 ft/lbs. The finished assembly is shown here. The new mount can be turned after tightening the E24 nut to finally align with the holes in the chassis. The E24 nut has to be tightened in the vise as there isn't room in the car to do it. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/lhs_bracket_with_torque_mount.jpg[/img] The installation is in reverse order from the removal. Install the two bolts through the new mount and tighten them with 13 mm box wrench and socket/extension. The tighteneing torque for these bolts are 24 ft/lbs. You will be happy to find out the forward bolt heads can now be accessed from the rear because the Torque Solution mount is much lower than the stock mount. Hand start the bolts into the trans axle so there are no cross threading tragedies. The torque value for the triangle bracket to trans axle bolts are 48 ft/lb. Here is a shot of the new LHS mount installed. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/lhs_installed.jpg[/img] The RHS is similar and a bit easier to install. Here is a shot of the RHS installed. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/rhs_installed.jpg[/img] Thanks to ApexL8 for digging up the torque values. It took me about four hours to do this project including writing an email to Torque Solution about their dimensional oops. Also I would like to remind folks of something Wayne Dempsey pointed out. If you want to replace your stock mounts with new ones buy the mounts for a 911 as they are sold separately with out the triangle bracket at half the cost. The 911 P/N is 993 375 049 07. If you want to replace the 13 mm nuts on the mount atttachment points they are P/N 999 084 447 01.

981-Boxster/Cayman 991-911 Door Airbag removal

Sun, 28 Apr 2013 19:03:12 -0500

by: Ken B

Description: To remove the Airbag in the doors you need to first need to disconnect the battery negative terminal and then remove the interior door panel. You want to disconnect the battery and let all the cars capacitors drain their charge for about 30 minutes. Probably the amount of time it takes to remove the door panel if you haven't done it before. Any left over electrical charges can cause your airbag system to fire and it makes for a bad day. Tools required: 10mm deep socket or wrench and a large jewelers screwdriver or equivalent. This is really pretty simple, the toughest part is figuring out how to disconnect the plug. 1. Slide the orange connector lock back with your jewelers screwdriver. [ATTACH]30468[/ATTACH] 2. Once the lock is back all the way ground yourself to a earth ground then pull the plug back. Grounding yourself removes static electricity from your body. [ATTACH]30469[/ATTACH] 3. Remove 3 bolts and 1 nut [ATTACH]30470[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]30471[/ATTACH]

981 Boxster grill strake removal/replacement

Sun, 28 Apr 2013 07:31:09 -0500

by: Ken B

Description: The Forum topic I posted tells how to remove and replace the grill strakes.

981 & 991 Door panel removal

Sun, 28 Apr 2013 07:23:29 -0500

by: Ken B

Description: This is how to remove the Inner door panel on the 981 Boxster and Cayman. It also appears to be similar on the 991 911 Interior Door panel removal Tools required: #30 TORX screwdriver or equivalent, plastic panel tool set. (soft plastic pry bar) All these tools are available from the local AutoZone and Pepboys. I have seen them in Harbor Freight as well. ALWAYS Safe the vehicle and disconnect the Negative on the battery before starting work on a job like this. One stray static charge canset off your airbag system and ruin your day. [attach]30353[/attach] 1. Remove the plastic cover that says AIRBAG (this is just a cover not the airbag [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30354[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]2. Start gently prying on it from the door edgewhere you see my hand and work your way around. [/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30355[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]3. Once it�s off there are these rubber tophatshaped grommets. [/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30356[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [SIZE=3][FONT=Arial]4. [/FONT][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Calibri][FONT=Arial]Make sure you have them both for reinstallation[/FONT] [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30357[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Door handle cover[/COLOR] [/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30358[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]Pry on the inside edge[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30359[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]Lift out[/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30360[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]Triangle Cover[/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/SIZE][/FONT] [/COLOR][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30361[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Pry up on the bottom edge wiggling it gently[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30362[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/SIZE][/FONT][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3]Once it�s up tilt it forward [/SIZE][/FONT][/COLOR] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30363[/attach] [attach]30364[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Note that there is a hook its pretty flexible plastic butyou have to work it out of the hole.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [attach]30365[/attach] Remove the end panel cover, Pry gently on the outer edge [attach]30367[/attach][attach]30368[/attach] [attach]30366[/attach] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30374[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Using a Number 30 TORX screwdriver or bit remove 4 bolts[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR] [/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30375[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]One bolt behind the aft cover[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR] [/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30376[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Behind the door handle cover[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR] [/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30379[/attach][attach]30377[/attach][attach]30378[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Two bolts behind the AIRBAG cover[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30380[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Lift Door panel straight up about 1 to 2 inches. It needs toclear the hooks on the inside[/COLOR] [/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30381[/attach][attach]30382[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Unclip the white part of the door handle cable. Then slide the white part aft and then out[/COLOR] [/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30383[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Now rotate the cable till the round end comes out[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30386[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Press blue tab on wire harness connector[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30387[/attach][attach]30388[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Rotate pink clip [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR] [/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][attach]30389[/attach][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Arial][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Slide harness out of receptacle[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT] [attach]30390[/attach] [attach]30391[/attach][attach]30392[/attach] Now that the Door cover is off inspect all these rubber grommets to ensure you didn't loosen one while lifting the door panel off [attach]30394[/attach] You can see the airbag assembly at the top of the inner panel [attach]30395[/attach] The silver tube at the top is the airbag CO2 cartridge and firing mechanism [attach]30396[/attach] Sorry picture is turned but you can see the control unit that is in the door and the woofer of the Bose stereo.

100013ST

Thu, 25 Apr 2013 12:54:15 -0500

by: Rob VN

Description: This article describes the installation of a CAE Ultra Shifter, Model number 10013ST into my 2007 Cayman 2.7L with 5 speed. This is a hard core shifter that does not retain the stock shifter look like the Numeric short shifter and others. The reverse lockout feature is inoperable with the 5 speed but works with the 6 speed trans axle. A link to the manufacturer product website is here http://www.shop.cae-racing.de/index.php?a=25&lang=eng The CAE unit is made in Germany and was obtained from Hard Motorsport ( no affiliation ) in the USA. This unit has a longer handle than typical short shifters raising the shift knob more level with the steering wheel. The shift patttern is restricted to approximately 65 X 65 mm. This shifter is used by Phil Ganderton and is shown here http://philipganderton.com/personal-pages/porsche-cayman-s/cae-ultra-shifter/. Phil answered a bunch of my questions and fabricated his own cover to hide a small amount of the mechanism. This model allows the center console to be reinstalled but not the shift boot. CAE makes a model for cars without the center console installed. Two of the trim pieces have to be altered as well. The stock shift cables will need to be swapped from their stock position requiring the parking brake assembly to be removed briefly. I followed this procedure http://billswebspace.com/Porsche987ShortShiftDIY for console removal because it leaves the knee pads in place. Thank you Bill. Of course I wasn't able to remove the stock shift knob but managed to pass the trim pieces and center console over the stock shift lever. A further impediment to console removal is my wiring for gauges/Accusump. This meant the cubby could not be removed easily. To get to the console center screw under the cubby a 5/16" hole was drilled over the center screw. A loose T-20 torx bit was dropped through the new hole and turned with a wrench. Here is a blurry shot of the bit in use. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/bit.jpg[/img] With the center console removed the shift cables can be swapped. Before starting this cable swap use a marking pen on the shift cables to show the neutral position. I also labelled the shift cable on the drivers ( lefthand ) side to ensure the swap took place. Here is the stock set up before the mod. Somewhere along here the stock shifter is removed via the four 10 mm nuts. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/stock_cables.jpg[/img] The hand brake assembly is held by four 13 mm nuts. The right hand side can be removed with a ratchet, extension and socket. On the left hand ( drivers ) side things are more convoluted. The LH forward nut can be removed with a 13mm box wrench and then a 13 mm gear wrench. The LH aft nut requires the use of a 13 mm universal socket. When you have the hand brake assembly loose then you can swap the shift cables. Here is a shot of the cables swapped. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/swapped_cables.jpg[/img] Don't put the hand brake assembly back until the cables are snapped into the CAE Ultra shifter frame. I can affirm this is the correct sequence of operation. Here are few shots of the CAE Ultra shifter. It is a solid piece of work. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/as_delivered_rhs.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/rhs_close_up.jpg[/img] Next the CAE cable ends are installed onto the shift cables. The longer cable end fitting goes on the right hand shift cable. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/piece_parts.jpg[/img] The CAE cable ends are pushed all the way onto the shifter cable ends with the ball sockets facing up. There are two hex head set screws on each cable end. Use blue thread fastening compound on the set screws and put white lithium grease into the ball ends. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/cable_ends_on.jpg[/img] Next install the shifter cables into the Ultra shifter frame. This is a tight fit because the end plate of the Ultra shifter is angled and the cable attachment pieces rub together. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/cables_in_cae_frame.jpg[/img] Once the shifter cables are snapped into the frame the hand brake assembly can be re-installed and tightened using blue thread locker. I used a level and a protractor to set the shift lever angle 10 degrees to the right. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/angle_measuring.jpg[/img] The adjustment is the 5 mm hex head bolt at the front of the Ultra shifter. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/front_5mm_screw.jpg[/img] It is probably easier to do this before mounting the into the car. The right hand shifter cable can then be attached to the right hand ball. Put the clip onto the ball end to lock it in place. Once you have the right cable ball end attached adjust the heim joint link on the right side of the Ultra shifter so that the neutral mark on the right hand cable is in position. The heim link is shown here. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/heim_joint.jpg[/img] 10 and 11 mm open end wrenches are used with blue thread locker. Next attach the left hand shifter cable to the left hand ball linkage. For those with 5 speeds the shifter installation is basically done. The operation of gears 1/2, 3/4, 5th and reverse should be checked. I plugged in the console and went for a test drive. ( so the air bag light doesn't go on requiring a trip to the dealer or a Durametric equipped buddy ) This a very solid shifter with increased effort as expected. Internal springs hold the shift lever along the 3/4 side of the universe. To select 1/2 you have to pull the shift lever to the driver's side. Similarly to get fifth you have to overcome spring tension to the upper right of the shift pattern. Reverse requires overcoming spring tension to the right and down to the lower corner of the shift pattern. On the 5 speed the reverse lock out ring is not operable, just there for decoration. CAE confirmed this and is altering their website. Of course I was apparently the first person to install this shifter in a 5 speed car. For use with the 6 speed transmission there are three set screws X, Y & Z to be adjusted. Set screw X is for gears 5/6 and is the single set screw on the drivers side. Set screw Y is used for reverse and is the forward set screw on the passenger's side. Finally set screw Z is used for gears 1/2. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/set_screws_rhs.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/set_screw_x.jpg[/img] CAE recommends that once you are happy with 3/4 gear engagement ( set by the heim joint on right hand shifter cable ) then determine that reverse can be engaged and if needed adjust set screw Y to make a clean engagement. Lastly check gear engagement of 5/6 and if needed adjust set screw Z to make a clean engagement. Again you should go for a test drive with the console temporarily plugged in ( so the air bag light doesn't go on requiring a trip to the dealer or a Durametric equipped buddy ) To get the console back in requires the driver's side ( left ) shift cable to be disconnected from the ball so that you can move the shift lever forward as you reinstall the console over the shift lever. With the console over the shift lever but not all the way home then the driver's side shift cable can be reconnected and the locking clip attached. Lastly some trim work will be required for the center console and the two cover frames to clear the shifter mechanism. Installing the console involves re-installing mounting hardware. The pesky center console screw is not used on the re-install as there is nothing to screw into on the CAE Ultra shifter. The trim pieces to be modified are shown here. Using a method of your choice the trim pieces need to be opened up to accommodate the new shifter where the "x" are shown. The plastic is not too strong so exercise caution trimming. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/trim_pieces.jpg[/img] The trimmed pieces are shown here after surgery. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/trimmed_piece_2.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/timmed_piece_1.jpg[/img] The center console edge near the shifter has to be trimmed as shown here. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/trimmed_ctr_console.jpg[/img] Finally here is the installed CAE Ultrashifter. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/final_install_717311.jpg[/img]

Water Methanol injection kit

Sun, 21 Apr 2013 10:45:53 -0500

by: Giantkiller

Description: Water methanol injection (kit $465, solenoid $70, extra hose $15, extra wire $15 = $565 total cost) So first I had to get a certain kind of water/meth injection system because I have a DFI car. Link to the kit I used: http://www.snowperformance.net/stage-2-maf-boost-cooler.html . The non DFI cars will have more options. Here is the explanation I got from Snow performance "With the engine being N/A and DI, our only option is the Stage 2 kit (#20011) as long as the MAF sensor is voltage based. Other customers I have talked to running kits on Porches have said that their MAFs are voltage based. The reason for this is that our Stage 3 controller can reference either pressure or EFI pulse width. It is not yet compatible with DI engines." Sooo, that is why I got the kit that I did. The kit comes with 10 feet of red hose, you need a minimum of 16 feet and I just ordered a 20 foot roll to be safe. You will have to call in to amend your order. I also needed to install the nozzle after the throttle body so I needed the Solenoid Upgrade (#40060) to prevent fluid from being sucked in under vacuum. I also don't want massive amounts of mist drenching the MAF sensor, and I don't want to have to modify or replace the factory hose in between the MAF and throttlebody. http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=20 So first I removed the plastic paneling in the frunk. Very easy to do. The pump is fairly heavy at around 10 lbs so pick a spot low to the ground and below your reservoir. You can use your factory one but it was just easier for me to install mine the way I did. A great article is here for those that want a stealthier look: http://www.impconcepts.com/porscheturbowaterinstallation.htm . I bolted the injection controller where I could easily access it and keep it out of sight. I got the power directly from the battery. However, I was advised to use a keyed source so I would recommend K-man S article on the Dension install for a better power source under the hood. "decided to tap into the power and the ground in the same location where the Navigation drive gets its power or where the CD changer would get its power if I had one, the Porsche factory wires to the left of the charcoal canister [flat black object to the left of the NAV drive - shown in my Nav install article in more detail]The wires we want to tap into are the Green/Red combo wire (Positive power) and the Brown (Ground) wire." ). I grounded the controller to the battery and routed it through a rubber seal behind a bracket holding a black container that I am not sure of its function, but it is on the same shelf. I grounded the pump, solenoid, and green indicator light to the chassis behind the carpet where the pump and reservoir is installed. I drilled a 3/8th inch hole in the corner of the frunk tub but take care when you do this because the coolant hoses are right there on the other side. It was just big enough to fit the red hose and signal wire through. I routed the signal wire and hose together in the upper tire well then underneath the paneling with no issues. As you can see from one of the pics there is even room in the runner to fit the aftermarket hose too. I wired the signal wire to the Blue/white wire on the MAF sensor. It is best practice to not cut the wire. Simply remove some of the MAF wire plastic covering exposing the metal then wrap and solder the signal wire in place and wrap with good quality electrical tape. Next I drilled and tapped the tube following the throttlebody. I used 3/8 drill followed by 1/8 -27 tap. Pipe is plastic so use caution. (they offer a bung for plastic but I did not need it). If I had to do this again I would have put the nozzle a little lower on the tubing so there would be no contact with the engine cover insulation. There is surprisingly little clearance. Next I have the indicator light powered by the controller power supply to the pump. This way it lights up when the pump is activated. I could not bring myself to put it in the interior so I have it visible from under the hood while I am driving. I routed it thought the same rubber seal as the controller ground wire then up through the hood hinge and fastened to the plastic paneling. You cannot see it unless you are sitting in the car and intentionally looking for it. Make sure all your hoses are in place then purge and test your system before you actually install the nozzle. Directions for this are straight forward and included in the kit. Hope you all enjoy your race quality fuel!!!!!!!! My initial settings are for the flow to kick on at 3.25 volts going to full spray at 5 volts. I used the 175ml nozzle because I am just a NA car. Turbo vehicles should probably go with the bigger nozzle included with the kit.

Side intake

Tue, 16 Apr 2013 06:45:41 -0500

by: Ken B

Description: Carbon Side Intake replacement

2013 Boxster 981 base

Wed, 10 Apr 2013 03:15:14 -0500

by: Mike R.

Description: AutoGuide Review of the Base Boxster: http://www.autoguide.com/manufacturer/porsche/2013-porsche-boxster-review-video-2538.html It looks like they cannot count to 3 or 5: [QUOTE]Some of the biggest changes include a new five-pot gauge cluster that replaces the old three-pot unit, [/QUOTE] And think that the sport design steering wheel is part of the Sportschrono option. I kind of also have to agree with one of the commenters: [QUOTE]No buttons on the steering wheel and poor cup holders. Who were the ladies who wrote this article? [/QUOTE] Although I would not have used the term ladies given that I know a few ladies that could drive circles around me in their Boxsters! Overall though still a positive and appropriate review if you filter out the cupholder whining and the mistakes above. The video review is actually much better: [YT]23mRgTboENc[/YT] I agree with his conclusion: After buy it, I have zero regrets (not even the cupholders).

Porsche Cayman 2013 Road Test

Tue, 09 Apr 2013 01:01:14 -0500

by: Mike R.

Description: http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/road-tests/porsche/porsche-cayman-2013-road-test/ Great pictures of the best color too ;). [QUOTE]Porsche has kept all the elements that made the original Cayman so good and added to them with a touch more refinement, improved quality and even better handling - a real feat given how impressive the previous model was. No other sports car at this price comes even close to the Cayman. It's pretty much faultless. We think it's a bit bloody good.[/QUOTE] Well, I personally think that the Boxster is even ;).

981 Cayman S

Wed, 03 Apr 2013 22:36:08 -0500

by: FedBot

Description: The all-new Porsche Cayman�s are finally hitting dealer showrooms after a long wait. Porsche�s mid-engined sports car has been a favorite of enthusiasts given the phenomenal handling and moderate price point. 9 Magazine had the opportunity to spend the day with the next-generation Cayman S and put together this report for our readers. For 2014, the Cayman features many of the same styling tweaks that were first displayed on the coupe�s convertible cousin, the Boxster. If you recall the Boxster is an all-new generation as well and Porsche has essentially added a hard top to the new two-seat design. The new Cayman features mechanical changes, more power, less weight and better efficiency. Engineers stretched the new Cayman wheelbase by nearly 2.4 inches and widened the front track by 1.6 inches, and the result is a car with all four wheels pushed well to each corner. Thanks to shorter overhangs both front and rear, the total vehicle length has grown by 1.3 inches from front to back.

2013 Porsche Boxster 981 Nirvana

Wed, 03 Apr 2013 04:12:57 -0500

by: Mike R.

Description: http://www.examiner.com/article/the-2013-porsche-boxster-automotive-nirvana He captures the experience well ;) [QUOTE]I recently got to spend a week with a new Boxster, and I have to say it was one of the happiest of my life; something I would wish upon anyone who likes to simply drive. It was like spending a week with a willing Mila Kunis in a five star all inclusive resort and never leaving the room. The moment I slipped behind the wheel I realized that up until that time my life on the road had been meaningless. I was in automotive nirvana; I had found my ultimate happy place.[/QUOTE] [QUOTE]Being in the driver�s seat is like wearing a favorite shirt that fits just right. But the real ecstasy comes on the road. The engine sound is like a chorus of automotive angels singing from on high, the response from the PDK transmission makes it seem like its reading your thoughts. Aggressive cornering is something you�ll look forward to. You�ll find traffic to be frustrating, other cars always seem to be in the way; after all it�s your road now, you just let them drive on it.[/QUOTE]

2013 Boxster 981

Wed, 03 Apr 2013 03:55:19 -0500

by: Mike R.

Description: http://www.nydailynews.com/autos/review-2013-boxster-shows-bold-new-upgrades-article-1.1296101 Now if they only could spell Pors(c)he ;)

NanoTech Paint Sealant Kit

Tue, 02 Apr 2013 12:46:01 -0500

by: K-Man S

Description: I'd like to thank Roger at Detailbest.com for sending me the new Raceglaze NanoTech paint sealant kit to try out on my new SUV. When I spoke to Roger I asked him if he had any long term wax, something that would last more than a few car washes and which would be good for an every day driver car. I've tried assorted waxes, polishers, cleaners, etc. over the years and have documented my experiences with them in other articles on this site. In this instance I wasn't looking for the highest gloss shine for my Porsche but rather something "tough" that would hold up to daily use for my 2013 Hyundai SantaFe SUV. This vehicle is used to haul the kids and sees all kinds of weather conditions, sun, salt, sand, rain, snow, you name it. I don't have hours to spend cleaning up the daily driver and I'm certainly not going to go to the lengths I go to in maintaining my Porsche. I didn't want my SUV to look like crap either. So for me, I wanted something that would last and something that would go on easily. This is why Roger recommended th NanoTech paint sealant from Raceglaze. To begin with, a paint sealant is not a wax, not a cleaner, not a polish. If your paint looks like hell to start with, a sealant isn't going to make it look like new, you need to clay bar, polish, buff, etc. to get the paint in a clean smooth condition before applying a sealant. In my case we are talking about a new car, only 6 months old, which I washed and used some other products to remove any tar, road grime, etc. before beginning. Obviously, my job was a little easier because I was starting with clean paint. I don't want to mislead anyone that this NanoTech product does everything because it doesn't, it isn't a polish or cleaner, you need something else for that. Here is a picture of what you get in the kit: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6784.jpg[/img] For $59.95 currently at Detailbest.com you get the kit that consists of 2 - 100ml bottles, one of the Primer and one of the Gloss Top Coat Sealant, two applicator round sponges, two nice blue microfiber towels and instructions. Here is a picture close up of the paint before I got started: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6783.jpg[/img] I carefully read the instructions and noted that you are not supposed to apply the product in direct sunlight or to warm surfaces. I got out my truster laser infrared thermometer and took measurements of the car's body. The temperature was 54.5F-55.0F degrees. The directions don't say if there is a perfect temperature but I'd have to say given my results that this temperature was a good one to work with. I used the first applicator and primer to wipe down the section I decided to work on (Passenger door and mirror). The instructions say to leave the primer on for 1-2 minutes and then wipe off with a microfiber towel. The primer went on easily and it took just a few minutes to do the entire door and mirror so basically I was ready to start wiping off almost immediately after I finished wiping on. I worked the door from top to bottom. Here is a picture of the door with the primer applied: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6785.jpg[/img] Just as the primer had gone on easily, so too it came off just as easily with a microfiber towel. I really hate having to buff hard to get dried wax off or some waxes/sealants smear as you buff them off and you have to keep buffing to get it all off. I'm happy to say that this Raceglaze Nano stuff wiped on and off quite easily. Here is a picture of the section after I wiped off the primer: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6786.jpg[/img] The gloss sealant went on the same way with the other sponge and again required only a 1-2 minute cure time. Here is the section with the gloss sealant applied: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6787.jpg[/img] Just like the primer, the sealant was ready to be wiped off about the time I finished wiping it on the section. The gloss sealant also came off easily and I should note that it did not stain some black plastic that I accidentally got it onto below the door but rather wiped off the plastic easily. Here is a picture of the section wiped off with the second microfiber towel: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6788.jpg[/img] and a close-up of the mirror housing: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6793.jpg[/img] I included a link below to more pictures in various lighting conditions. At this point it took me 5-10 minutes to do a section of the car while taking photos and I suspect I could get the whole car done in an hour, possibly less which is quite fast. I ran into no issues with using either the primer or the topcoat sealant, both went on and came off easily leaving a good shine and smooth to the touch surface. Since my other requirement is that the product needs to last a long time and hold up to every day driving, I plan to do 1/2 of the car with this Raceglaze NanoTech sealant and the other 1/2 with a traditional wax and then monitor over time to see how each holds up. So far the Raceglaze has lived up to the hype and expectations of being a great way to quickly protect your car's paint. Please check back in the future to see my long-term report on this product which I will add below.

Rennline Adjustable Gas Pedal Rev 4

Sun, 31 Mar 2013 15:16:27 -0500

by: Rob VN

Description: This article describes the installation of the Rennline adjustable gas pedal Revision 4 into my 2007 Cayman 2.7L. I don't know what revisions 1 - 3 were about. This unit raises the gas pedal with respect to the brake pedal to allow better heel and toe action. The unit consists of a base plate, pedal extensions, a pedal housing ( under the pedal extensions ) and a hinge bracket shown in the following photos. The parts are nicely machined from aluminum. Here are the machined parts you get with the unit. Fasteners are not shown. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/base_plate_and_lifter_pads.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/parts.jpg[/img] The installation took about an hour. You first remove the stock gas pedal assembly shown here. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/stock_pedal_in_place.jpg[/img] It is held in by a phillips head screw in the upper left corner of the assembly. With the screw out you slide the assembly upward out of the body. There is an electrical connector that needs to be disconnected as well. Here is the stock pedal out of the car. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/stock_pedal_removed.jpg[/img] You have to pop off the pedal where it attaches to the plunger and then slide it off. A small cover has to be removed too. This shot shows the removed pedal and cover. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/discarded_gas_pedal_and_cover.jpg[/img] Here are few shots of the pedal temporarily assembled outside the car. The pedal gets built up in the car however. You'll need a 1/4 inch drill and non-Metric Allen keys to carry out the installation. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/trial_fit_rhs.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/trial_fit_pedal_housing.jpg[/img] To start the installation you place the Rennline base plate in the car and mark the counter sunk hole onto the body with a felt tip pen. Then drill a 1/4 inch hole which will accept a supplied nut clip. The base plate is then installed in the car using the flat head screw into the nut clip. The existing screw in the upper left gets installed later when the original pedal goes back in. Base plate installed in the car is shown here. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/base_plate_installed.jpg[/img] You next install the original pedal that is mounted to the new base plate by sliding the pedal down until the upper left screw hole aligns. I used an awl to line up the hole. Then the Rennline hinge bracket is installed along the right side of the base plate using three 1/4-28 hex head cap screws. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/hinge_bracket_installed.jpg[/img] The next item to go in is the Rennline pedal housing which has to be slid on to the hinge shaft as well as the plunger from the stock pedal assembly. I found it easier to first install the right hand pedal housing bushing onto the hinge bracket in order to get the plunger to line up. Here is a photo after this step was completed. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/pedal_minus_covers.jpg[/img] The final step is to install the upper and lower pedal covers & extensions on that result in the final installation shown below. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/installed_pedal_509126.jpg[/img] There is adjustment via the lifter pads to get the pedal pads higher if you like. The pedal kit gives about 1/4 inch additional height due to the thickness of the Rennline base plate if you do nothing else to adjust pad height. The lifter pads can provide an additional 1/2 inch of pedal pad height. I will need some practice but blipping the throttle prior to down shift is much easier with this Rennline adjustable pedal

The National reviews the 981 Cayman S

Fri, 22 Mar 2013 08:21:23 -0500

by: kellera6

Description: Excerpt of The National article by Kevin Hackett: "Bam! Bam! Bam! Bam!" Last night, outside a Portuguese restaurant, Markus Baumann was doing his best impression of Porsche's flat-six engine, his right hand quickly moving back and forth as he uttered those sounds. He was talking, rather excitedly, about the manual gearbox in the new Cayman, and his enthusiasm was both contagious and entirely understandable. Earlier that day, after a tortuous series of flights from the UAE to Portugal, where this car is being launched for the international media, I got to drive a Cayman S from a Porsche dealership to our hotel on the coast. I'd almost forgotten what it was like to pilot a pure sports car along truly mind blowing mountain roads. Within five minutes I knew, without a single nagging doubt, that this is the very best driver's car available today. And I don't say this sort of thing lightly. Baumann is the man in charge of engine development, and the manual transmission now benefits, in Sport Plus mode at least, from an automatic blip when performing downshifts. It's an unnecessary feature but it's fun. And that, more than anything, is what the new Cayman is about: the one f-word we love to say, but rarely get to, when describing the driving experience on offer from a new car. t's improved in every possible way over the outgoing model. It looks stunning, like a diminutive Carrera GT with a roof. The wheelbase is 60mm longer and its track is wider, for improved handling. The engines (2.7L for the normal one and 3.4L for the S model) are more powerful, lighter and drink less fuel. And yet they sound utterly intoxicating, especially when you hit Sport Plus and the trick exhaust kicks in. It's pure race car and, when you lift off the throttle, the pops and bangs and gurgles that pour forth are sonic heaven. I'm struggling to think of any aspect about this car that doesn't delight me. So I have accepted what I already knew deep down. This is the perfect car - something I was close to saying about the new Boxster last year after driving one for a few days. But the Cayman is stiffer, more focused on delivering a better hit, better able to unleash that enthusiastic driver you know you are - if only you had the right wheels and the right roads at your disposal. I don't often take the opportunity to talk cars with the people I meet at launches who are responsible for developing them, but last night I couldn't help myself. I just had shake their hands and congratulate them on doing the very best possible job. But today is the real test. As blindingly brilliant as a car can be on public roads, it's the racetrack that sifts the wheat from the chaff. Today, the weather is just right - cool, free of wind and the sun is shining. And the track, one I had assumed would be little more than a glorified karting circuit, is nothing of the sort. The Autodromo Internacional do Algarve is one of the best I have ever had the privilege of experiencing: extremely long, with a flawless surface for plenty of grip and loads of blind crests to be taken flat-out- if you're brave enough. I climb into an S model with Porsche's excellent PDK dual-clutch transmission (tellingly, not a single car here is blighted by the infernal toggle switches that normally ruin the experience - they're all either manual or fitted with proper, beautifully engineered alloy paddle shifters) and adjust my seat. As I wait for the lead car to give us the nod to head on to the track, I take a moment to look around the cabin, and it's as though the previous model never existed. Everything is intuitive, tactile and lovely to look at. The seats (sport bucket items yesterday, regulars today) are wonderfully comfortable, supportive and easy to position for just the right posture. It's time to go and the lead instructor doesn't hang about. He's in a new 911 Carrera S and immediately guns it out of the pit lane - even on the first, familiarisation lap it's scarily quick. I have my car in Sport Plus mode for increased punch and a stiffer chassis set-up, and it doesn't disappoint. For five glorious laps, this car provides the most incredible adrenaline rush, exhibiting perfect poise and balance and more than enough power to keep on the tail of that wailing Carrera up front. The grip from the Cayman's front tyres is sensational, allowing the tightest corners to be taken at speeds that would have most other cars struggling to maintain the chosen line. It's staggeringly quick, eminently chuckable through the bends and inspires huge levels of confidence in the driver, rewarding them with the drive of their lives, time after time. In fact, as I write these words, my legs are still shaking - it's that exhilarating. Jaguar, your F-Type has a new benchmark - the Cayman S has just set the bar higher than it ever was. And, if you're in the market for a new Porsche, take off those 911-shaped blinkers, because this is the thinking person's Carrera. The Cayman will hit showrooms in the UAE at the end of next month.

2013 Boxster S Review

Sat, 09 Mar 2013 11:25:53 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt from Autos.CA review, click link below for the full article: Review and photos by Mike Schlee Photo Gallery: 2013 Porsche Boxster Porsche has pedigree. There are no ifs, ands or buts. There is no room for debate. Even if you are not a fan of the marque, or just don�t get expensive sports cars in general, there is no denying that Porsche has had one of the most storied and successful sports car legacies, well, of all time. Still not convinced? Well, neither was I. I grew up an anti-fan of Porsches and thought they were overrated. My only unfounded reasoning was that everyone else liked them so I, by default, could not like them. I�d never driven them or rode in them, but to me they couldn�t possibly live up to the hype; there are so many better sports cars out there. Right? Right? Wrong! I was so very, very wrong. Ever since my first ride in a 911 over a decade ago, I realized the errors of my �hater� ways. Anyone who has driven a proper Porsche sports car (Cayennes and Panameras need not apply) and still does not appreciate them, well, I can�t help you. Porsche has built a legacy on producing vehicles that are as at home on the racetrack as they are on a country road taking a sunny Sunday afternoon cruise. They blend prestige, sport and luxury in a way many other manufactures could wish for. And for 2013, there is an all-new one; the Porsche Boxster. I�ll admit we at Autos.ca are a bit late to the 2013 Boxster party; many have already reviewed this roadster over the past few months. However, we have a twist for our coverage of the Boxster: a full-blown winter test. But before we get to that, here is a quick refresher on the all-new 2013 Boxster.

2014 Cayman S First Drive

Sat, 09 Mar 2013 11:14:41 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt of Edmunds article by Andreas Stahl, click link below for full article: Lighter, Faster and That Much Closer to the 911 Published: 02/08/2013 - by Andreas Stahl, Contributor Some cars � namely the really good ones � have it all together right from the start: the moment you fire the engine, select 1st gear and set off down the road. The new, second-generation 2014 Porsche Cayman S is one of those cars. But you don't have to wait until you've unlocked the driver's door, slid your backside across the heavily contoured seat and turned the key to discover just what a compelling car it is. Even before we had drawn the frameless door open and climbed in, we already had an inkling that the new two-seat coupe had what it would take to build on the haughty reputation of its predecessor, still one of the finest driver's cars going some 6.5 years after it was added to the Porsche lineup. This Porsche Cayman Looks the Part Up close in the metal, the 2014 Porsche Cayman S is stunning. The overall design is significantly more mature than on the first-generation Cayman, with superbly executed elements such as the crease line running through the door and the automatically deploying rear spoiler � all set to be mirrored on the upcoming 918 Spyder due out in September. Its confident and self-assured stance make this Cayman look exactly like a sports car should. As with the latest Boxster, the new Porsche Cayman receives slightly altered proportions that serve to give it a more cab-forward silhouette. Length is up by 1.4 inches to 172.4 inches, width remains the same at 70.9 inches and height drops by 0.4 inch to 51 inches. The new Porsche also rides on a chassis boasting a 1.2-inch-longer wheelbase at 97.4 inches and the tracks have been pushed out by 1.6 inches to 50.1 inches at the front and 0.7 inch to 60.6 inches at the rear to provide it with a significantly larger footprint. The wheelhouses are also bigger to swallow the standard 19-inch wheels with 235/40 tires in front and 265/40 tires in back. Porsche has also revised the construction of the Cayman in a bid aimed at offsetting the increase in dimensions with a reduction in weight. As with the new Boxster, the body is no longer made exclusively out of steel. Instead, it uses a combination of aluminum, magnesium and steel, which drops the overall weight of the car to 2,976 pounds, a 55-pound reduction versus the previous Cayman S. The Flat-6s Remain As with the first-generation Porsche Cayman, buyers have an initial choice of two naturally aspirated horizontally opposed water-cooled six-cylinder engines. The $52,600 Cayman base model receives a newly developed 2.7-liter unit complete with direct fuel injection that boosts power output to 275 horsepower at 7,400 rpm, a 10 hp bump up from the previous 2.9-liter base engine. Torque, however, drops by 7 pound-feet for a total of 214 lb-ft at 4,500 rpm. The model driven here is the $63,800 Cayman S, which gets a revised 3.4-liter version of Porsche's classic boxer engine. Various tweaks to the induction system result in output numbers of 325 hp and 272 lb-ft of torque at 4,500 rpm. Both engines come standard with a six-speed manual gearbox, although Porsche expects the optional seven-speed dual-clutch gearbox with steering-wheel-mounted paddle shifters will prove the more popular choice over time: and with good reason. The latest software update has improved the quality and speed of its shifts to a point where it is now one of the best units of its type in any car. Purists will still hanker for the manual, if only out of habit, but the dual-clutch gearbox is now clearly the better choice, both in everyday and track-oriented driving. A Livelier Feel The 3.4-liter engine really does deliver the best of both worlds, providing for docile part-throttle traits in an everyday city driving environment and captivating liveliness when the conditions allow, particularly above 4,000 rpm where the camshaft profile is noticeably altered and it really begins to deliver. Significantly, the points at where peak power and torque are delivered have risen by 700 rpm and 1,300 rpm respectively, endowing the revised engine with a slightly peakier delivery than in the old Cayman S. Its character hasn't changed in any great way, but there is now even more reason to explore the upper end. The best attribute, the one that sticks in your memory well after you've climbed out, remains the sound it makes at wide-open throttle. Changes to the induction and exhaust system have enhanced what was already a stirring soundtrack, providing the Cayman S with the aural attributes to back up its exceptional dynamic characteristics. It is not supercar quick in a straight line, but the performance you get for the money with the 2014 Porsche Cayman S is rather compelling. Porsche claims zero to 62 mph in 4.7 seconds in combination with the dual-clutch gearbox and Sport Chrono package, which brings a launch control feature. This is 0.4 second faster than the old model and just 0.1 second shy of a similarly specified 911 Carrera, which runs the same engine but in a slightly higher state of tune. Top speed extends to 175 mph, achieved at the 7,600 rpm redline in 6th gear owing to the widely overdriven 0.62:1 ratio used in the seven-speed dual-clutch gearbox. A More Modern Chassis With its engine mounted low down wholly within the wheelbase and the majority of its weight concentrated over the rear wheels, the Cayman has never lacked for traction. However, Porsche has seen ways to improve it. The new model receives a revised version of its predecessor's stability control function and, for the first time, an optional torque-vectoring system. It's capable of juggling the amount of drive being sent to each of the rear wheels as part of a rear locking differential that offers 27 percent lockup under load and 22 percent lockup under deceleration. As with much of the new Cayman save for its driveline, the chassis has been heavily updated. It continues to use a suspension with struts both front and rear, although they have been redesigned, making them more compact, stiffer and better able to maintain a constant camber for more precise handling. The subframes to which the suspension is attached are also new, offering greater dispersion of shock throughout the body structure, which is claimed to boast an impressive 40 percent increase in overall rigidity. Other changes include an improved optional active suspension management system. With four vertical sensors, it provides faster and more intuitive changes in damping control. The driver can choose between Normal and Sport, which provide moderate and higher damping forces, respectively. A bigger change is the adoption of electromechanical steering in place of the wonderfully communicative hydraulic-mechanical setup used on the old Cayman

First Drive 2014 Cayman S

Sat, 09 Mar 2013 10:51:32 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt from Automobile Magazine article by George Kacher, click below for entire article. Eleven miles up, eleven miles down. No police, no black ice, no farm traffic. Simply eleven miles of the most gorgeous road: corners of all radii, dips and crests, climbs and descents, some blind stuff and some wide open, the black tarmac covered with a light-gray dusting of winter salt. When you hit the Sport Plus button, and pull the gear lever to the left into M, you can feel it straight away: the limits are quite low, the car feels rather nervous, the electronic helpers enter the game much earlier than expected. How come? Because it's 7 degrees outside, the road salt is acting like fine sand, and the fly yellow Cayman S is shod with Michelin Pilot Alpine M&S tires. They are at their best in a relatively narrow temperature window. When cold, the grip slackens suddenly, like a broken fishing line. When really hot, the footwear indulges in ridiculous slip angles, but as long as you keep them in their comfort zone, they will encourage you to put the new Porsche to the real test. We have always liked the Cayman S for its poise and precision, balanced handling, and accessible performance. The new, second-generation Cayman has those same characteristics, but it has lost 65 pounds and gained 5 hp. Torsional rigidity improves by 40 percent, the wheelbase increases by 2.4 inches, and the standard tire size has gone up from 18 to 19 inches. The result is a nimbler and even more determined sports car that really shines on this deserted Bavarian road. The normally aspirated flat six obeys throttle orders as if it were governed by a telemetric mastermind, the seven-speed PDK dual-clutch gearbox hammers through the ratios like a rapid-fire weapon, stability control works reliably in minimum interference mode, the steering does its best not to let the driver feel its electro-mechanical origins, and the brakes snarl at their ABSolute limit whenever optimism challenges the law of physics. Normally, SportPlus is only for racetrack use, but when you're lucky enough to have a public road all to yourself, it doesn't hurt to push the chips to overload. That's overload as in full punch all the way to the cutout speed, accelerating hard in third gear at 100-plus mph, relishing each and every whiplash upshift, and changing down so early that your head keeps snapping forward in a sequence of wordless nods. You can either dictate the rhythm and the pace by using the paddleshifters or you can slip the lever in D and let the black box mastermind the very rapid progress by itself. The harder you go, the more conscientious the input should be. It is surprisingly easy to overdrive the Cayman S by being a touch too slow at the wheel, not determined enough on the brakes, and too impatient with the throttle. Mistreated like this, the car will squirm and wiggle, fighting both tarmac and driver, relying on its computerized cleverness to stay on the road. The worst thing one can do in this situation is switch off PSM stability control and pretend to be on top of the game. Read more: http://www.automobilemag.com/reviews/driven/1302_2014_porsche_cayman_s/#ixzz2N3uJVUoL

Review of 2013 Cayman S

Fri, 08 Mar 2013 15:03:13 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Exceprt from the Car magazine article, click link below for full article: Porsche Cayman S (2013) CAR review By Georg Kacher First Drives 12 February 2013 12:30 The new �981-generation� Porsche Cayman S is 30kg lighter than the outgoing model, 5bhp more powerful, and boasts same the classy interior as its soft-top Boxster sibling. Is it still the �40-50k sports car benchmark? Porsche Cayman S: the spec The new Cayman is bigger than before: its wheelbase is 60mm longer, and it now rides on 19-inch rims as standard. Porsche claims the body structure is 40% stiffer than the old car's too. The Cayman S uses a 3.4-litre flat-six engine, developing 321bhp. It�s essentially a detuned version of the motor found in the back of a 991 Carrera, pushing 1385kg of mid-engined Cayman down the road. As with all new Porsches since the 991, the power steering is now assisted by an electric motor, rather than hydraulics. You can upgrade the standard six-speed manual gearbox to a seven speed dual-clutch PDK auto, and there�s the usual mind-boggling array of pricey options. In the optimum spec, the Cayman S will hit 62mph in 4.6sec, top out at 176mph, and return around 35mpg. What�s the new Cayman like to drive? First off, it's fast: quicker than a Cayman R and even a manual 991 Carrera to 62mph. Get brutal with the power and you'll easily overcome the chassis's benign balance and provoke big slides from the tail. The Cayman feels nimble, and though its natural reaction to ham-fistedness is a dollop of understeer, being precise with your throttle inputs yields real balance and delicacy. However, although the mid-engined chassis handles beautifully, the electric power steering feels more mute than the the outgoing hydraulic rack's, and it can make slight, self-correcting inputs on bumpy roads that are an unwelcome intervention. The six-speed �box has a crisp manual gearchange action, though the more economical and whip-crack fast PDK box is well worth the extra �1922. Standard steel brakes offer peerless strength and feel: would you ever long for �4977 of carbon-ceramic stoppers? We think not.

2013 Boxster Review

Fri, 08 Mar 2013 14:52:09 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Exceprt from Winding Road article by Tom Martin, click link below for full article. Update: 2013 Porsche BoxsterBy Tom Martin February 04, 2013 . For more information about the Porsche Boxster, including news, reviews, photos, and videos, please visit its master landing page. In our initial review of the Porsche Boxster, the press car we tested had the base 2.7-liter engine, and yet was loaded with both performance and comfort options. Porsche offers one of the richest arrays of options among all manufacturers, so Porsche PR had plenty to choose from in decking out our $49,500 base Boxster with $28,625 in options. Fans of this system, among which you can count your humble servants, point out that Porsche allows you to get your car configured pretty much exactly the way you want. And if you�ve ever said something like, �Gee, I wish you could get the Mark Levinson sound system and heated rear seats with the diesel engine,� you�ll understand the benefits of the Porsche system. It is impressively flexible. It isn�t perfect, in part because it can be costly, and also because it can be confusing. The most impressive but potentially confusing part of the Porsche option system, circa 2013, is the variety of performance options on offer. With the sports cars, generally there are choices of: . Two engines . Base, adjustable (PASM) and sport suspensions . Sport Chrono, which offers drivetrain mass damping and launch control (on PDK) . Torque vectoring . Two transmissions: traditional manual and PDK dual-clutch paddle-shift . Two exhaust systems . Two steering assist levels . Two steering wheels with different shift mechanisms for PDK . Two or three wheel diameters, sometimes with different tire widths . On some 911s you can also get active roll control and either AWD or RWD You can�t exactly choose each item separately, but the arrangement is pretty close to a la carte. Realistically there are double-digit numbers of configurations here, at least. That wouldn�t matter to prospective buyers if a) Porsche buyers didn�t care about driving subtleties, and b) if all these choices were gimmickery. But Porsche buyers do care and Porsche is a real engineering company, so the technology does things that are readily perceivable. Because of all the permutations, it is also unlikely that your dealer has the various permutations available so that you can do the testing. We aren�t going to solve this problem, because Porsche PR doesn�t have all the permutations either. But we did opine, while testing the Boxster with PDK, PASM, Torque Vectoring and Sport Chrono on 20-inch wheels, that the base car might be preferable. Not just �better for the money,� but outright more fun to drive.

2013 Porsche Cayman Review

Fri, 08 Mar 2013 14:45:19 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt from What Car? Review, click link below for full article: 2013 Porsche Cayman review 13 February 2013 New Porsche Cayman driven Offered with 271bhp and 320bhp engines On sale now, priced from �39,694 Latest News Porsche Boxster and Porsche 911 are two of the finest sports cars available, but this all-new, second-generation Porsche Cayman has the potential to be even better. It's lower, wider and lighter than its predecessor, which should help it grip harder and feel more agile. What's more, its fixed metal roof gives it a stiffer body than the Boxster, while its mid-engined configuration makes the Cayman inherently better balanced than the rear-engined 911. As before, there are two models: the regular Cayman and the more powerful Cayman S. The lesser car has a 2.7-litre flat-six engine, while the S uses a slightly detuned version of the 3.4 in the 911 Carrera. Both versions send power to the rear wheels through a six-speed manual gearbox, although Porsche's seven-speed twin-clutch PDK semi-auto 'box is available as an option. What's the 2013 Porsche Cayman like to drive? Our test car was the S model fitted with the PDK gearbox, and in this form the Cayman lives up to its promise. It's a relatively light car at 1350kg (or 1320kg with the manual gearbox), but you'd swear that figure was even lower because the Cayman changes direction so effortlessly and remains incredibly flat during cornering. The steering only serves to increase your faith in the car, feeling precise and beautifully weighted, while the standard brakes are powerful and easy to modulate.

First Drive: The New Porsche Cayman

Fri, 08 Mar 2013 14:37:25 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt from Top Gear article, click link below for full article. Right, no dilly-dallying about, just how good is it? What, can't I tell you about the longer wheelbase, the 30kg weight reduction, the stiffer chassis, the extra power and torque of both the 2.7 and 3.4-litre engines, the attention to detail, the engineering? You know, give you a bit of preamble? No, you may not. Now spit it out. It's terrific. Exceptional. I've spent the afternoon driving both the 3.4-litre S (pictured) and the regular 2.7 and both handle and drive with such control and dexterity. The ride on huge 20-inch wheels is close to sublime and the damping, well, both cars were equipped with Porsche's optional PASM system and felt wonderfully fluent. Peel into a fast corner and it's rock solid, play with the throttle mid-corner and you can feel the car moving the balance around. With a couple of exceptions (more on which anon), the new Cayman has moved the game on in every area. In a way this comes as a surprise. How so? OK, not a massive surprise, but with the Cayman now firmly established in the model line-up Porsche would have been justified in taking its foot off the gas a little. The first Cayman was a difficult sell, dismissed in some quarters as a Porsche for those that couldn't afford a 911 and in all quarters by those puzzled that a coupe, traditionally the cheaper variant, was more costly than the convertible Boxster. I'm assuming they've kept the pressure on? Of course. This is Porsche we're talking about after all. So, there's a feeling this is a more purpose-designed and built Cayman than the first generation. That was based on a Boxster and bound to be a little compromised as a result. This time round both have been developed in parallel. And as a result improvements have been made: torsional stiffness is up a massive 40 per cent, for instance. And it's so much better looking. Isn't it? Bigger, heavier shoulders, so much more muscular and there's something about the angle of the hatchback rear and the shape of the haunches that's so right when viewed from the rear three-quarters. The front is fine, but plainer by comparison, but those deep, sucking flanks improve the stance so much, and overall the surfacing gives the Cayman a deeper, richer, more desirable twist. That's boosted by great detailing, especially the way the rear spoiler integrates with the lights. It's self-assured, boasts a far better sense of proportion than before and, provided you go for a good colour (not dark brown...), little short of captivating in the metal. And what goes on underneath? A choice of two engines and many, many options, most of which you don't need (a Cayman shouldn't be available with radar cruise or a keyless system in my opinion). Most people will spec the PDK gearbox because the 0-62mph times are faster, but the manual now has a similar rev-blip feature to the Nissan 370Z. It's foolproof and fun and mated to a honey of a six-speed manual. The 2.7-litre engine produces more power (271bhp) and torque (214lb ft from 4,500-6,500rpm) than the outgoing 2.9 and in so doing becomes the first Cayman to produce more than 100bhp per litre. It has notably less zing than the (321bhp and 273lb ft) 3.4-litre at low revs, but although it picks up well from 4,000rpm and has a claimed 0-62mph of 5.7 seconds, you get the feeling you'd have a hard time fending off Focus ST's in this naturally aspirated coupe. Does make a divine noise though, and as the flat six doesn't whip through the revs, you get to listen to it for a good long time. Spec the optional sport exhaust and listen to the sounds of the distant Crimean War rumble and pop behind you. The 2.7 is noisier and more tuneful than it has any right to be and sounds just as fruity as the 3.4. So should you upgrade to the S? Tricky one. The upgrade costs �9,089 (from �39,694 to 48,783) and if you'd never driven the 3.4 I think you'd be perfectly content with the 2.7. However, you'd always be keeping a watchful eye out for determined hot hatches in the 2.7, while in the S, which uses a detuned version of the entry-level 911's 3.4-litre flat six, you'd know you had them covered. It's quick (0-62mph in 5.0 seconds), notably more energetic and punchier across the rev range. And it too sounds glorious, a real rich rasp, full of intent and intoxication. Good. Now what about those causes for concern you mentioned earlier? It's chiefly the steering. In any other car I wouldn't bother to mention it, but because the Cayman is so exceptional in other areas, the new electro-hydraulic steering sticks in the craw slightly. It's perfectly weighted, beautifully accurate, but there's this bit in the press pack where it says, �negative or unnecessary noise is filtered out' and I have a feeling that some of what's been filtered out would have been better left in. It's the same with the new 911: the steering is consistent and you know exactly where you are with it, but the electro-mechanical set-up lacks the last little bit of tingle and fizz that a hydraulic power steering system offers. The old Cayman's wheel used to jiggle and writhe a bit on bumpy roads, let you know about the surface, the camber and everything. This one doesn't do that as effectively. You feel it through the chassis as much as you do the steering. It's a small point, but one worth making. True. But is this one better to live with? Undoubtedly. There's a faint impression that the Cayman is now aimed at a broader, less specialist customer base, and the Cayman, even as a manual, is blissfully easy to drive. There's no challenge here, it's a perfectly refined and quiet cruiser that would handle long range weekends away with aplomb, (even the S manages 32.1mpg, giving a 452-mile range) and the twin boot set-up (150 litres in the nose, a maximum of 275 in the tail) gives it decent practicality. As long as you don't need to pack a pushchair or something. But then junior won't be accompanying you and your good lady in a Cayman anyway.

981 Driver Report

Fri, 08 Mar 2013 14:32:02 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt of Classic Driver article by Jan Baedeker Portuguese back roads. Mountain passes and corkscrewing curves. A rainy racetrack alongside Walter R�hrl. Full throttle in the new Cayman: I�m in love. Why write long features if a simple staccato list tells the story? It might interest Google�s crawlers and bots, but too much fact-laden text is sometimes unnecessary. Perhaps a couple of times a year, I sit in a new car and think, �That�s it, it�s man-machine love at first sight.� This is one of them. After two days of mountain roads and the roller-coaster track of the Aut�dromo Internacional do Algarve at Portim�o, my endorphin levels have reached an all-time high. This is, so far, the most exciting sports car of the year. I now have a baseline for light, compact GTs without too many frills or fuss. As a mid-engined Porsche, and with its powerplant mounted lower than the 911�s, the Cayman has a clear engineering advantage over the famous 50-year-old car. Where the first-generation Cayman always looked like a �Boxster with a roof�, the new car has much better-balanced styling. It�s more masculine, has cleaner, sharper edges, a longer wheelbase and a wider track. With its flatter roof and shorter overhangs, the 2013 Cayman appears far more aggressive and purposeful than before. But looks are only important in the showroom and outside a restaurant. On the streaming wet track, following in the tyre tracks of race and rally legend Walter R�hrl, looks - aerodynamic demands aside - don�t matter a lot. To appreciate the on-paper advantages of the lighter and more rigid body, the new Cayman S�s optimal weight distribution and its 325bhp flat-six, you really need to get behind the wheel. It is absolutely stable over hills and through corners. Engaging Sport-Plus heightens the experience, but even in relaxed all-automatic mode the PDK transmission will propel the car from zero to 62mph in 4.7 seconds. But for those who really want to experience the new Cayman, we suggest selecting �manual�: the way the 'box matches engine rpm to road speed, double de-clutching and revving when changing down, is a delight.

981 Cayman Driver Review

Fri, 08 Mar 2013 14:22:24 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt of AutoExpress article by James Disdale, see link below for full article: We try out the stunning new Porsche Cayman ahead of first customer deliveries later this year Verdict5...Porsche could have a real problem on its hands with the brilliant new Cayman S. Not only is it as fantastic to drive and as quick as the firm�s flagship 911 Carrera, it undercuts its legendary brother by nearly �24,000. When you look at it like this, the Cayman is actually one of the performance car bargains of the year..Business is booming at Porsche. In January alone, the firm�s global sales were up a massive 25 percent over last year. So now is as good time as any to launch a new Cayman. Promising to be faster, even better to drive and more efficient than its predecessor, the sleek mid-engined coupe is aiming to go straight to the top of the sportscar class. There�s no denying the newcomer looks the part. In profile the Cayman is remarkably similar to the outgoing model, but it�s now lower and wider, giving it a more aggressive stance. Our range-topping Cayman S also benefitted from an eye-catching twin exit exhaust and large 19-inch alloys. Yet it�s under the car�s skin that you�ll find the biggest changes. The extensive use of aluminium and high strength steel has helped reduce weight by around 30kg, while a longer wheelbase and wider track promise even greater composure in the corners. There�s also an all-new engine line-up, with the entry-level �39,694 Cayman getting a 271bhp 2.7-litre flat-six and the racier �48,873 S benefitting from a muscular 321bhp 3.4-litre unit. On the move, the new Porsche is quite simply sensational, particularly on twisting back roads. Thanks to its motorsport-inspired mid-engined layout, the Porsche always feels beautifully balanced, while the dizzying levels of grip allow you to attack corners with confidence. Better still, the new electrically assisted steering is beautifully weighted and full of feedback. Powerful and progressive brakes, rock solid body control and a precise six-speed gearbox complete the dynamic masterclass. Buyers can also opt for the firm�s �971 PASM adaptive dampers and the �1,084 Sport Chrono package, which includes a Sports Plus mode that delivers razor sharp settings for the throttle and suspension. There�s even a neat function that automatically blips the throttle on downshifts. As you�d expect, the Cayman S is an explosive performer. The six-speed manual car will blast from 0-62mph in only 5.0 seconds, while models equipped with the �1,922 seven-speed PDK twin clutch gearbox require only 4.7 seconds. Whatever transmission you choose, you get the same spine-tingling howl from the engine. There�s also the option of a �1,473 Sports exhaust, which adds to the dramatic soundtrack with plenty of pops and bangs on the overrun. Yet there�s more to this Porsche than undiluted driving thrills. Read more: http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/porsche/cayman/62722/new-porsche-cayman#ixzz2Myuu0Hgb

981 Cayman Review Feature

Fri, 08 Mar 2013 14:10:00 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt of article by Richard Meaden from EVO, click link below for full article. 2013 Porsche Cayman S review and pictures Rating: The second-generation Porsche Cayman could be good enough to dethrone the 911. We drive the 321bhp Cayman S By Richard MeadenFebruary 2013 What is it? The all-new, second-generation Porsche Cayman. We�ve all seen the pre-launch press images, but until you stand next to one and appreciate the stance, proportion, detailing and all-round rightness of the design it�s hard to credit just how desirable it really is. The most powerful model (for now), the Cayman S, costs �48,783. Technical highlights? Extensive use of aluminium in the Cayman�s body structure means a 40 per cent increase in torsional rigidity and a decrease in kerbweight of up to 30kg, the Cayman S down to 1310kg. Engine outputs are increased, but not dramatically (up 10bhp to 271bhp in the downsized 2.7-litre Cayman and 5bhp to 321bhp in the 3.4-litre Cayman S) although both motors have more generous power curves, so they produce more power than the old engines across the rev range. Of course being a modern high performance car these increases come despite a reduction in fuel consumption and emissions of up to 15 per cent. The Cayman S equipped with a PDK twin-clutch gearbox enjoys a CO2 rating of just 188g/km. Not bad for a 174mph sports car. What�s it like to drive? It�s extremely comfortable and easy to drive, with great visibility, short overhangs and a compact footprint. If you�re much over 6ft tall you�ll also be pleased to hear the new generation platform�s 60mm increase in wheelbase creates a more spacious interior than the outgoing model. As we wind our way up into the hills the true brilliance of this car starts to shine. Both front and rear track are wider (40mm and 12mm respectively) but the overall width remains the same. Together with the longer wheelbase it ensures the Cayman feels planted to the road, thanks to brilliant lateral and longitudinal stability and an agility enhancing 46:54 weight distribution front-to-rear. Like the Boxster it has electric power-assisted steering. Both cars have a more natural feel than the 991, but I�d venture the Cayman is the best of the three. On dry roads you know exactly where you are in terms of available grip, and that confidence remains even when the road is slick with rain. You can carry extraordinary speed across the ground, slicing through transient curves without fear of any short-tempered mid-engined twitchiness. When fully committed to a fast corner outright grip is huge, but what�s really special is that through medium and slow speed corners there�s still plenty of grip and stability to lean on, yet you can slide the car if you wish, using the Porsche Torque Vectoring and mechanical limited-slip differential to enjoyable effect. Rare is the car that has such poise and natural balance, yet allows you to adjust its attitude so readily and accessibly. The engine and six-speed manual gearbox are sensational, the former revving its heart out while the latter�s half a dozen perfectly spaced ratios always feel ideally matched to the power and broad torque delivery of the 3.4-litre flat-six. It might be unfashionable to say so, but I�d willingly sacrifice a few tenths of a second of 0-60mph performance (5.0sec plays 4.7 for the PDK, Sport Chrono-equipped car) to have this greater sense of satisfaction. Ultimately, and perhaps for the first time in a Porsche, the choice is now made purely on personal choice, not because one is markedly better than the other. Long may that choice continue to be available. How does it compare? The Cayman�s price tag (this test car wound past �60,000 thanks to options) can buy everything from a BMW M3 or Lotus Evora to a lightly used Nissan GT-R, with the new Jaguar F-type and Alfa Romeo 4C set to join the sports car market in 2013 too. That this Cayman feels good enough to challenge Porsche�s more expensive 911 tells you how sensational it is.

Cayman Review Aus

Fri, 08 Mar 2013 14:02:32 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt from Car Advice Australia review, click link below for full article. A second-generation Porsche Cayman means it�s time to revisit an intriguing question: how much is an iconic sports car badge worth? At $115,500, the entry-level Porsche Cayman is half the price of the cheapest 911 ($229,400). Buyers, of course, will typically be split into two camps: those who want a 911 �the bigger and faster sports car (with the bonus of kiddie seats) � and those who are after a more realistically attainable Porsche coupe. CarAdvice has been invited to Faro in southern Portugal to test the new Porsche Cayman ahead of its local release in April. The old model was one of the great driver�s cars, and combined with our experience last year of the Cayman�s convertible twin, the Boxster, with which it shares many commonalities, expectations are elevated. Step into the new Porsche Cayman and you�re greeted with the perfect driving position that is the epitome of the car�s stand-out ergonomics � low set, keeping the driver�s eyes level with the prominent front guards, without compromising all-round vision. Notably different, though, is the newly enriched interior that sees the Cayman as the last of the Porsche line-up to adopt the rising-bridge console design and perceived lift in materials quality. Practicality is always a relative term when it comes to sports cars, but the Cayman offers some useful solutions, not least its front and rear luggage compartments that now offer an extra 50 litres of capacity, up to 425 litres in total if you�re happy to fill the rear section to the roof line and two lidded storage bins either side of the mid-mounted engine. Cupholders again flip out of the dash and there�s a decent glovebox, while there are two � albeit narrow � door pockets, one with a pull-down flap, plus a thin tray embedded into the doorsill. Most Cayman buyers, however, are more concerned about how the car loads up in corners. The mid-engine, rear-drive concept comes quickly to the fore again, though the car�s longer wheelbase and wider tracks (the width between the axles) give the new Cayman an even greater sense of stability both on the road and the racetrack. If the Macquarie dictionary were to have an entry for �Balanced sports car�, its definition would simply need to say: Porsche Cayman.

Cayman First Drive Australia

Fri, 08 Mar 2013 13:52:34 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt from WAToday.com First drive article, click link below for full article. Third-generation coupe is not just faster and more efficient than before, it's one of the world's best driver's cars. First Drive: Porsche Cayman S Porsche Cayman S There was always a feeling Porsche held back the Cayman a little to protect its iconic big brother, the 911. Not anymore. Well, at least not by as much as it has been, because the all-new 981-series Cayman is more brilliant than its ever been. And that means it inches ever closer to be the 911�s equal when it comes to blending mind-bending dynamics with Teutonic levels of luxury and quality. It doesn�t take long to come to that conclusion following our first taste of the new Cayman on the challenging Portimao Circuit in southern Portugal, where we test drove the car for the first time. In fully-loaded Cayman S specification, fitted with the optional PDK transmission and Sport Chrono package, it�s hard to pick a more accessible, fluid, fast and yet supremely comfortable sportscar on the planet ... the 911 included. More:Porsche says Cayman no threat to 911 The Cayman�s mid-engined layout might rob it of two rear seats (which are near useless and hardly used in most 2+2 coupes anyway), but it does provide it with a higher degree of precision and a sweeter overall balance than the 911. The larger footprint from its longer wheelbase and wider tracks not only makes the Cayman feel more stable at high speeds, it also feels sharper under high-load cornering and more progressive when reaching the limits of adhesion. The adoption of electric power steering was a contentious issue when first introduced on the 911, but it�s not with the Cayman. It certainly doesn�t detract from the cars� ability to pin point its position on the road with razor-sharp accuracy and fluidly change direction with an almost telepathic poise and balance. While it�s extraordinary on the race track, even if you never take to a circuit its handling strengths are still easily accessible on the road, as, unlike most sportscars, its delicately balanced chassis is evident even at pedestrian speeds. What makes it even better though is the Cayman doesn�t have a bone-jarring ride to achieve its level of handling. It�s almost the opposite, particularly when fitted with the multi-stage adaptive dampers. In its standard setting, the suspension sublimely soaks up any road imperfections and while the Sport mode adds a degree of sharpness in the way bumps are handled it doesn�t crash through the body at all. While the Cayman�s dynamics are its trump card, the 3.4-litre engine is an absolute pearler and perfectly matched to the car. Although its peak power outputs are achieved at sky-high engine speeds, it pulls smoothly from the depths of the rev range all the way to its 7800rpm ceiling. With the engine perched just behind your ears, there�s a throaty induction growl as it picks up speed which then transforms into a beautiful - and addictive - free-spinning wail from 6000rpm onwards. It�s even better when fitted with the optional sports exhaust that heightens the induction note, but then adds a glorious crackle when you lift off the accelerator. The six-speed manual is one of the best in the business with the kind of mechanical feedback that makes you feel like your hand is directly connected to the gears, and anyone will feel like a race driver with the automatic rev matching system that�s part of the Sports Chrono package. But there�s no denying the PDK is the faster and more user-friendly option that�s both silky smooth around town as a self-shifter and changes cogs with a rapid-fire action but one that doesn�t jolt you in the back.

First Drive 981 Porsche Cayman S

Thu, 07 Mar 2013 13:29:03 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt from Car Enthusiast article, click link below for the full article. Overall rating: If you're choosing between a highly specified Cayman or a pretty standard Porsche Cayman S, we'd urge you go for the latter. It's astoundingly good and significantly quicker - without losing the delicate balance and engagement of the chassis. Are there are rivals? Truly? Key Facts Model tested: Porsche Cayman S Pricing: starts at �48,783 Engine: 3.4-litre flat-six petrol engine Transmission: rear-wheel drive, six-speed manual Body style: two-door coup� Rivals: Audi TT RS, BMW Z4 sDrive35is, Mercedes-Benz SLK 350 AMG Sport CO2 emissions: 206g/km Combined economy: 32.1mpg (8.8 litres/100km) Top speed: 176mph 0-62mph: 5.0 seconds Power: 325hp at 7,400rpm Torque: 370Nm at 4,500- to 5,800rpm In the Metal: Differentiating the Porsche Cayman S from its non-S sibling are two round exhaust pipes (as opposed to an oval), bi-Xenon headlights and 19-inch alloy wheels as standard (as opposed to 18-inch items). It's tempting to go for the 20-inch rims as they enhance the car's stance, but they do detract from its refinement and comfort. The body of the car is all new and though it's lighter than before Porsche has managed to increase torsional stiffness by a considerable 40 per cent. That means it's more than double that of the new Boxster (which, Porsche is quick to stress, is already quite stiff). Improvements of the same level are quoted for the efficiency of the pop-up rear spoiler. It generates more downforce than before, yet creates less drag. Technical stuff aside, we love how the Cayman S looks inside and out. Driving it: As you'll read in our first drive of the entry-level Porsche Cayman, you don't need to splash out on the S model for thrills or serious driving enjoyment. However, if your budget allows, it's worth doing, as the Cayman S is appreciably faster at all times. It has 50hp more, but it's the 90Nm of extra torque that makes the difference on the road and this car is rapid even if you don't chase the redline. Saying that, the howl from the exhaust does encourage you to use a lower gear than is strictly necessary a lot of the time... In Sport Plus mode the throttle is automatically blipped to match engine and road speed. Now, as someone who enjoys trying to perfect heel and toe in different cars, I dislike the fact that this system cannot be turned off (other than not using Sport Plus), but at the same time it's difficult not to be impressed by it. Like the 911 Carrera 4 it was introduced on, the timing and amount of throttle is perfect every time you change down, though it still feels a little odd in conjunction with a manual gearbox. Speaking of which, the PDK automatic versus manual gearbox debate rages on. The former is brilliant technically and doesn't detract from the experience, but the manual option is so much more satisfying. It helps that the shift has a pleasing mechanical action through the gate. The other controls are direct and well-weighted as you'd expect. A firm brake pedal doesn't drop after hard use and the steering is quick and offers up useful feedback without anything resembling kickback on poor surfaces. On the track the Cayman S is beautifully balanced and grip from the front particularly impressive. You learn to really lean on the tyres into and through a turn, helped of course by the inherent traction of a mid-engined layout.

Porsche Cayman Review 2013 Onward

Thu, 07 Mar 2013 11:42:54 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt of MSN UK Article, click link below for full article: Major move upmarket in style, interior quality and technology. And the Cayman remains a great drive too. What - Porsche Cayman Date - February 2013 Where - Faro, Portugal Price - �39,694 - �48,783 Available - March 2013 Key rivals - Audi TT, BMW Z4, Mercedes SLK, Nissan 370Z We like - Thoroughly enticing driving experience, classy and well designed interior, relatively practical day-to-day. We don't like - New electric power steering doesn't have the feedback o the old Cayman, the PDK automatic version blurs the involvement.

2014 Cayman First Drive

Thu, 07 Mar 2013 11:34:35 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt from Autoblog article by Zach Bowman, click link below for the full article. I need you to understand what it's like to drive this car. I'm not talking about your ability to comprehend the words on this page or process the figures that surround the 2014 Porsche Cayman S, but rather what it feels like to take control of a car conceived, designed, engineered and manufactured to set your prefrontal cortex alight with all the glee a Zippo typically reserves for pine needles marinated in jet fuel. From the instant you put your tail in the driver's seat, the Cayman sets about impregnating your veins with a full and varied spectrum of ludicrous emotion. It's not like taking the family pickup to market, I can tell you that much. For 2014, the next-generation Cayman features many of the same styling tweaks first displayed on the coupe's drop-top cousin, the Boxster, though a spate of mechanical changes, more power, less weight and better efficiency join the party to further differentiate this model from its predecessor. And while additions like rev-matched downshifts and electronic power steering help push the Cayman into a new era, one fact remains unchanged: This is one of the best driving cars on the market. Period. Bear with me and I'll try to explain exactly why that is. Engineers stretched the Cayman wheelbase by nearly 2.4 inches and widened the front track by 1.6 inches, and the result is a car with all four wheels pushed well to each corner. Thanks to shorter overhangs front and rear, total vehicle length has grown by a manageable 1.3 inches from stem to stern. That means it will take a keen eye to spot the machine's swell. Instead, onlookers are likely to first take note of the dramatic upkick from rocker panel to air inlet. Porsche calls the feature a "dynamic recess," and the contrasting black inlets really do shuttle air to the flat six mounted mid-ship.

2014 Cayman Test Drive

Thu, 07 Mar 2013 11:17:33 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt from Popular Mechanics article by Andrew English, click link below for the full article: On-Sale Date: April 27, 2013 Base Price: $53,550 to $64,750 Competitors: Jaguar F-Type, Mercedes-Benz SLK, Aston Martin V8 Vantage, BMW 1-Series M Coupe, BMW Z4, Chevrolet Corvette Powertrains: 2.7-liter H-6, 275 hp, 213 lb-ft; 3.4-liter H-6, 325 hp, 272 lb-ft; 6-speed manual, 7-speed dual-clutch automatic, RWD EPA Fuel Economy (city/hwy): 21�22/30�32 (Cayman), 20�21/28�30 (Cayman S) What's New: It's hard to believe that the Cayman is just 8 years old, having been sold in the U.S. since 2006. This new version brings the midengine hardtop in line with the new lightweight architecture and electrical systems introduced on last year's 911 and Boxster models. It means the new Cayman has electronically assisted steering and a wide range of options including adaptive cruise control (which maintains the distance from the vehicle in front), a Bose or Burmester sound system, and a factory-installed keyless entry system. The third generation of Porsche's baby coupe will be built at the VW Karmann plant in Osnabr�ck, Germany, following Volkswagen's purchase of Porsche. It gets an all-new chassis, which has grown to 172.4 inches in length, an increase of 1.3 inches over the outgoing model with a corresponding 2.4-inch wheelbase stretch. A wider front track�1.4 inches for the Cayman and 1.6 inches for the S�along with small increases to the rear track reinforces the Cayman's wheel-at-each-corner impression. The roof is lower and the aluminum-and-steel construction gives a 14 percent weight reduction, trimming about 66 pounds, depending on configuration. Read more: 2014 Porsche Cayman Test Drive - Popular Mechanics

2014 Cayman Review - Hot Damn It is Good!

Thu, 07 Mar 2013 00:07:03 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt of Car and Driver review by Eric Tingwall, see link below for full article: The Germans are at it again. From the same country that brought us the �four-door coupe� and engine soundtracks played through the speakers of the audio system comes another wishful fantasy: that the 2014 Porsche Cayman is not a Boxster coupe. The Germans have declared the Cayman to be a stand-alone car, one distanced from the roadster that shares its engines, transmissions, and architecture by virtue of being stiffer, more powerful, and sportier. Never mind that these attributes go part and parcel with adding a steel roof and three grand to the price. But of course the Cayman is a Boxster coupe. Frankly, we couldn�t come up with higher praise. Whether the roof folds or not, Porsche�s mid-engined, smaller sports car is a perennial favorite and a mainstay on our annual 10Best list. Riotous flat-six engines, balanced handling, and vivid steering punch your ticket to driving nirvana. With this third-generation car, Porsche promises a higher plane of enlightenment by way of lower weight, more power, and new chassis technologies. My, What Haunches You Have Plus, just look at it. All grown-up and filled out in all the right places, the Cayman finally appears ready to step out from the 911�s shadow. This latest croc has a wider track with a longer wheelbase and stretched greenhouse, and it possesses a newfound presence, thanks to details such as larger air ducts behind the doors, brawnier rear haunches, and an elegant spoiler that tapers into the taillights. It might be a bosom-est buddy with the Boxster, but the new Cayman again shares a large amount of its architecture with the new 911, too, which pays off in its intensive use of aluminum. The lightweight alloy makes up 44 percent of the Cayman�s body-in-white, specifically, the front and rear body, the floorpan, the doors, and the front and rear trunklids. Porsche says this more than offsets the added mass of new equipment and larger wheels and that the net weight loss for a Cayman S is a claimed 66 pounds. The base Cayman�s flat-six has slimmed down from 2.9 liters to 2.7, and output climbs by 10 horsepower to 275. Despite more muscle and less fat, the Cayman is still a car with more chassis than guts, like a quicker and stickier version of the Mazda Miata MX-5 or Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ. It�s a formula that rewards fluid drivers who maintain momentum and minimize the amount of time they spend off-throttle.

Why Want More? The Boxster S

Wed, 06 Mar 2013 23:58:20 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt of article by Dino Dalle Carbonare, see link below for full article. I�ll admit it. I�m guilty of having ignored the Porsche Boxster. I�m not one to usually to do this sort of thing, but I let the somewhat questionable image the car had developed get the better of me. I was always aware of the fact it was a revered driver�s car, but its somewhat unmasculine associations, to be kind to it (I promise I won�t mention �hairdresser� anywhere in this story), kind of led me to never really develop any particular interest to it. The car came in that period where Porsche seemed to have lost focus design-wide, going for those horrible new style of headlight on the 996, a shape that sort of trickled down to the first-gen Boxster. But then, sometime last year, something really cool happened� �Porsche decided to reinvent the Boxster and came up with the car you see here. Now this is more like it! There�s no denying this is a superbly styled car, it�s extremely modern, functional and undeniably very Porsche-like. No matter what angle you observe it from, it just works so well and begs you to jump in and have a go. So, that is precisely what I did. I picked up the car from the Porsche HQ in Tokyo and ever since engaging first gear on the manual transmission �it� began. It�s an extremely rare occurrence, but the moment I released the clutch the Boxster just captivated me. It�s not every day that you sit in a foreign car and you instantly feel at home. In a matter of minutes I was acclimatized to its driving position, the pedal layout, the perfect location of the shifter and the way each of these things worked so well together as I smoothly shifted through the six gears. I knew this was going to be an exciting few days.

2014 Porsche Cayman moves to the pole: Motoramic Drives

Wed, 06 Mar 2013 23:50:35 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt of Yahoo Autos Article by Lawrence Ulrich, see link to full article below: Plopping an engine smack in the middle of a car has a magical effect on handling � even if it means sacrificing a back seat. So while Porsche is most famed for a rear-engine, two-plus-two sports car, its signature 911, it has managed great things with a pure mid-engine coupe with just two seats: The Cayman. The magic continues with an all-new, third-generation Cayman. Snobs may consider the crocodile-named coupe a junior member of the Porsche family. But with this redesigned version, they�ll be forced to admit that the Cayman handles as well as the far-pricier 911, and in some situations better. Add a strikingly reworked body and cabin, and the full gamut of Porsche performance technology, and the Cayman has evolved into one of the world�s greatest sports cars, regardless of price. That status shone with million-watt clarity on the Aut�dromo Internacional do Algarve in southern Portugal, the devilish high-speed circuit where Formula 1 teams have tested their machines. First off, the Cayman is lovelier than ever, reshaped to play up its classic silhouette and alluring, deep-cleavage rear fenders. There�s no confusing this two-seater with the more-demure 911. Like a supermodel�s cheekbones, the Cayman�s aluminum-skinned doors have been dramatically hollowed. Those dynamic recesses draw more than your eye: They direct intake air through chunky door scoops and into the flat-six engine tucked behind the driver and passenger. The rear hatch glass is wider, highlighting the Cayman�s broadened, road-sticking stance, including the S model�s 1.6-inch wider front track � the distance between the front wheels � and a nearly half-inch stretch at the rear. The wheelbase grows by 0.6 inches, another boon to high-speed stability. The Cayman�s roof is subtly lowered and stretches farther to the rear, where it meets a finely drawn aluminum lip that forms the pop-up rear spoiler. That spoiler has 40 percent more effective area than before. That helps pin the Cayman to the asphalt at speeds that peak at 165 mph for the base model, and a lusty 175 mph for the Cayman S. The Cayman�s sense of visual lightness is no David Copperfield illusion. An aluminum diet for the body trims about 66 pounds, putting the base Cayman at 2,882 pounds. Its main rivals, the Mercedes SLK, BMW Z4 and Chevy Corvette, are porkers in comparison, weighing 300 to 400 pounds more. At the same time, the Cayman�s redesigned aluminum chassis is 40 percent stiffer, allowing the suspension, wheels and tires to perform without wasted motion and energy. Hans J�rgen-W�hler, Porsche�s director of the Cayman and Boxster lines, says the Cayman, remarkably, is more than twice as stiff as the new Boxster convertible, and far less twist-prone than the 911 as well.

Porsche improves on Boxster�s perfection for 2013

Wed, 06 Mar 2013 23:44:14 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt of Inside Auto article by Mike Covello, click link below for full article. Some folks claim the only obstacle to the Porsche Boxster becoming a supercar is the Porsche 911. It�s hard to remember back to 1994, when Porsche first showed us the Boxster concept. It seemed to be a retro version of their �50s 550 racing model and many derisive comments about the Porsche 914 were resurrected from the dawn of the �70s. Once folks got a chance to drive the mid-engine, two-seat roadster, however, the adulations started to flow. The first complete revision has produced a new torrent of praise from the buff books, including Automobile Magazine naming it their design of the year for 2013. In order to understand the Boxster, you must come to terms with a basic contradiction. The 911 is the model on which Porsche has been built and the main model with which it continues to be identified. The management tried to kill it off with the advent of the front-engine V8 928 model for 1978, but the legions of fans of the 911�s rear-engine layout wouldn�t be denied. Today there are a dozen versions of the 911 from which to choose; there�s no longer any 928. The engineers are to be congratulated on overcoming the inherent difficulty in hanging the largest mass way out behind the rear axle and providing a great handling car. The Boxster continues to be the �entry� level Porsche sportscar. The basic Cayenne SUV starts at $48,500, so we can�t call the 2.7-liter 265 horsepower Boxster the least expensive Porsche. Based on my tester�s soaring $90,535 price tag, inexpensive Porsche is rapidly becoming an oxymoron. Stepping up from the Boxster to the $60,900 Boxster S brings far more than an extra script of chrome �S� on the newly fashioned tail. The most obvious difference is the upgrade to a 3.4-liter horizontally opposed six-cylinder engine that makes 315 hp. and 266 lb-ft of torque. While a six-speed manual transmission is standard fare, my car came equipped with a $3,200 �Porsche Doppelkupplung� or PDK for short. The seven-speed automated manual transmission has two clutches to insure a smooth flow of power when its cogs are changed. You can also manually shift the PDK gears using the shift lever on the console or the paddles mounted on the steering wheel. Upshifts tend to be a bit harsh when SPORT mode is selected. Downshifts are enhanced with an aural treat. The engine gives off a quick �BRAP, BRAP� that makes you feel even more at one with the car.

Porsche Cayman Review

Wed, 06 Mar 2013 23:35:32 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Excerpt of Auto Express Article by James Disdale, full article at the link below. The entry-level version of the all-new Porsche Cayman is just as beguiling as the faster Cayman S Verdict 5 . .. The new Cayman continues the Porsche success story. It�s fantastic to drive, is truly beautifully built and is remarkably comfortable for daily use. It�s not as fast as the S, but at �39,964 it undercuts that car by nearly �10,000. And for most drivers, most of the time, this is all the sports car they will ever need.. Less really is more with the new entry-level Porsche Cayman. Despite being fitted with a smaller engine than its predecessor, the two-seater coupe is actually faster and more efficient than ever. The on-paper figures certainly look impressive: the new 2.7-litre flat-six engine produces 271bhp, which is 10bhp more than the old 2.9-litre car, while around 30kg has been slashed from the latest model�s kerbweight. As a result, the Cayman will cover 0-62mph in only 5.7 seconds, yet return a claimed 34.4mpg at the pumps. Alternatively, you can go for the excellent PDK automatic gearbox, which cuts the sprint time by a tenth of a second and improves fuel economy to 36.7mpg. From behind the wheel, the car doesn�t feel as muscular at low speeds as the range-topping S model we drove earlier this month. But once the revs climb above 4,000rpm, it accelerates strongly to the 7,400rpm red line. Our test car was also fitted with the �1,473 optional twin-exit sports exhaust. This enhances the engine�s trademark flat-six bark when you press the button on the centre console, plus delivers a series of enjoyable pops and bangs when you lift off the throttle. Read more: http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/porsche/cayman/62877/new-porsche-cayman#ixzz2MpTMbtvj

Porsche Cayman Gets Boost For Drivers

Wed, 06 Mar 2013 23:27:20 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: Except of Article by Jason Harper for Bloomberg: Unlike, say, a 911 Turbo S, a Porsche Cayman S is not a vanity purchase. Tell somebody you�re considering buying one, and they might ask, �Oh, the SUV?� No, that would be the similar sounding Cayenne. The Cayman is the two-seat, mid-engine sports car first released in 2005 as a fixed-roof brother to the convertible Boxster. This year brings the release of the third generation, which might have occasioned the Cayman to change, to grow up even. After all, it has never captured the prestige of the venerable 911, the practicality of the Cayenne or the obvious joys of the topless Boxster. In other words, the Cayman is Porsche�s odd duck. Its devotees are not particularly interested in fancy options or looking suave about town. Instead Cayman owners will drive 300 miles out of their way to find 10 miles of genuinely challenging road. Place a true-believer in a brand-new S model and let him fire it down the winding route. He will return a happy man. The most common complaint about the Cayman is that it�s underpowered. This version is a bit zestier. The base model gains 10 more horsepower and the S model five. The braking systems are improved, wheels larger and the wheelbase longer. The base price starts at $53,550, though at that price it will have oceans of plastic in the interior and the lesser, 2.7- liter, flat-six engine with 275 horsepower. Open your wallet for the S model, which starts at $64,750, and you get the motor with 3.4 liters and 325 hp. Sports Options The test model was loaded with all of the performance upgrades, special paint and full leather, coming to a rather incredible $95,000. Many options are unnecessary, others key to getting the most out of the driving experience. The Sports Chrono package ($1,850) makes the car faster, and the sports exhaust ($2,825) a lot more fun. Fire up the engine and hit the sports exhaust button, which opens up a flap in the silencing system, allowing more sound to escape. Suddenly, the 3.4-liter flat-six sounds like no other car on the market. Hustle down the road, momentarily take your foot off the gas and the exhaust overrun indulgently rat-a-tats behind you, a Little Drummer Boy suddenly banging away like Led Zeppelin�s John Bonham. This engine is so vocal, it�s positively loquacious. The exterior has been modestly reworked. The cant of the windshield and shape of roof line are bolder, making the Cayman more Porsche-like. The rear end gets a prominent horizontal line which cuts across the tail lamps, an oddity. Boxster Beauty It�s a bit of a letdown compared to the Boxster, which got a nose-to-tail remodeling last year and is an absolute beauty. I wish they�d made the Cayman�s redesign more radical. But if you love to drive, you can live with the just-okay looks. This isn�t a car to impress the Joneses. It�s a car to escape them -- and the rest of your workaday troubles. Find a lonesome, winding road, and get the car into third gear, its sweet spot. (Best of luck choosing between the six- speed manual, which is involving and glorious, or the seven- speed automatic, which always knows which gear you want and is also glorious. The PDK automatic costs $3,200 more.) The steering is spot on, the car is light and ideally balanced, and that engine just keeps on making great sounds. With the automatic version, you can keep your left foot poised over the brake, tapping it when you need to get a little weight on the front end to help it carve corners. (Rest of Article at Link Below)

OEM Water Pump

Sun, 06 Jan 2013 22:08:48 -0600

by: Pssk=1.0

Description: [B]Water Pump Replacement on 2006 Cayman S (Gen 1)[/B] [B]Intro:[/B] If you're a forum member and regular reader, you've probably seen multiple posts related to the water pump failing in Cayman, Cayman S, Boxster, and Boxster S Porsche sports cars with some frequency. It usually seems to happen between 30K and 50K miles, with 45K seeming to be the most frequent. Some have issues with relatively low mileage cars, and some have gone over 100K with no issues what so ever. Although I have seen reference to the composite impeller fracturing, I think the most common issue by far, and certainly most common for all auto engine water pumps is the impeller shaft bearing or bearing seal giving up. This causes the shaft to wobble slightly, causes binding during rotation, and non-centric spinning, all which ultimately leads to coolant leaking out the shaft housing and dripping down to the lowest point on the water pump housing which happens to be the 10 mm bolt on the bottom of the pump at the main coolant intake hose. [B]Note:[/B] This leaking will often be slowly at first, but gets worse over time. A worn shaft bearing will not necessarily make any noise (squealing or clattering) when it first starts to go (mine didn't make a sound) so it's a good idea to periodically check under the car or look at your garage floor after you've pulled the car out to check for leaks. If you don't know already, Porsche factory coolant is pink, and when fresh and mixed properly is transparent (like strawberry Kool-aid�). Light cloudiness can occur if you've mixed in another brand of coolant (say Prestone�) to top it off occasionally. I personally recommend using the Porsche OEM coolant only, so it's a good idea to keep some handy in your garage. If when draining coolant, you see any type of sludge, semi solid, or foamy material, this likely means oil has mixed with your coolant, and indicates a head gasket leak or water jacket breach. Time for a trip to your authorized Porsche Dealer or Certified Porsche independent mechanic. Get your wallet ready! [B]Difficulty:[/B] If you change brake pads, do your own oil changes, replace spark plugs and coil packs, or otherwise are comfortable with interior or exterior modifications, or have reasonably good experience working on cars, then this is a medium (if you need to work under jack stands) to medium low (if you have a lift) difficulty job. It's fiddly as they say because of the cramped working space, and because you need to have the right tools. However, doing it yourself will save you anywhere from ~ $800 (certified independent) to ~$1200-$1400 (Porsche Dealer), and you will have both the satisfaction of bonding with you Cayman/Boxster, and knowing the jobs been done correctly (I'm not confident every dealership is investing in their younger mechanics these days) [B]Note:[/B] Some recommend removing the passenger seat to make access a little easier. I just put both seats as far forward as they can go. Removing one or the other might make it marginally easier. [B]Time:[/B] About 5 hours from beginning of dis-assembly (engine cover and front engine compartment cover) to reassembly, fill, bleed, drive, re-bleed. [B]Parts you will need:[/B] Porsche OEM Water Pump (997 106 011 02) with Gasket (997 106 340 00) sold as a kit from Suncoast for ~ $250 Porsche Antifreeze/Coolant (000-043-301-49) $34/Gal Distilled Water 1 Gallon Optional but recommended: polyrib accessory serpentine drive belt (996 102 151 66) ~ $38 from Suncoast [B]Note:[/B] Porsche Coolant is unmixed, and should be mixed 50:50 with Distilled water (60:40 if you live in very cold climate and drive in Winter). If you follow my procedure, you will need about 6 to 7 liters of mixed coolant (about one gallon unmixed coolant and one gallon distilled water). If you drain the entire cooling system, you'll need 23 to 25 liters (6.1 to 6.5 gallons mixed) depending on if your car is MT or Auto, or if you've added a third center radiator for additional cooling. If you completely drain the system, I strongly recommend a vacuum bleeder (Airlift 550000 or equivalent) to refill, as the cooling hose layout to the front radiators are convoluted enough to cause a significant amount of air to become entrapped. [B]Tools you will need:[/B] Standard 10 mm socket, quarter inch drive Deep-well 10 mm socket, quarter inch drive 10 mm socket, 3/8 inch drive 10 mm open end / box end wrench Universal (or swivel adapter) for the 3/8 inch drive Adjustable wide opening pliers (pipe grip) or hose clamp removal tool. #T20 Torx bit and Driver Clean Funnel for adding coolant Tray or Pan bucket for catching coolant Shop light plus flashlight Shop Rags Disposable Rubber gloves Std 50 mm socket with 1/2 inch drive Micro-Torque wrench (capable of 7 Ft-lbs (84 inch lbs) or 9.5 N m) 3 ton or greater hydraulic jack 4 jack stands or 2 jack stands and two rhino ramps [B]1.[/B] Move Driver's and passenger's seats all the way forward. Open the Frunk and the Rear Compartment hatch. Disconnect the battery. [B]Note:[/B] Two reasons to disconnect the battery. First, it's good common shop practice not to work on the engine with the battery connected, and second, when the remaining coolant in the engine block drains when you disconnect the main coolant hose, it will trip the low coolant sensor in the ECU if the battery is connected, and you may need a Durametric to reset this warning after the job is complete. It has also been reported to mess up the temperature gauge. If you disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected until you've added coolant back in and are ready to start the engine, you can avoid these issues. [B]Do not completely shut the Frunk or the hatch until you are ready to reconnect the battery to start the engine once the job is near complete because the Frunk and hatch releases are electronic and you will not be able to open them again with the battery disconnected![/B] I won't cover the engine cover removal or the front engine compartment cover removal, as those procedures are more than adequately covered in other articles in this forum. [B]2[/B]. With the car still on the ground, remove the polyrib accessory drive belt by using the 50 mm socket and 1/2 inch drive. First take note how the belt is threaded on the (1) crank, (2) tensioner pulley, (3) lower take up pulley, (4) water pump, (5) alternator, (6) upper take up pulley, (7) power steering pump pulley, and (8) air conditioner pulley if you have a/c. See Figure A. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/1/5/2/5/1/figure_a._serpentine_belt.jpg[/img] Place the socket on the 50 mm nut on the tensioner pulley and rotate clockwise. This will loosen the belt enough to slip it off the lower take up pulley next to the tensioner, and then just work the belt off. [B]Note:[/B] Examine the belt for abrasions, cracks, worn areas, etc. and replace with a new one if you see any of the above evidence of wear, or if more than 30K miles regardless of condition. it's a relatively cheap price for peace of mind. [B]3.[/B] Now look at your new water pump to see where the seven 10 mm bolts are located on the pump. The pump is located with the main hose in-take at the 6 o'clock position when installed. Once familiar, look at the pump on the engine. In [B]Figure B[/B], I've photographed the top nut at 12 o'clock and the next two to the right facing toward the engine (facing the rear of the car). The reason is this: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/1/5/2/5/1/figure_b.jpg[/img] The two bolts with the Red Arrows labeled X and Y can only be loosened with the 10 mm deep well socket on the quarter inch drive because a standard 10 mm will have the head of the drive wrench body interfering with the water pump pulley, or in the case of the bolt labeled Y, a standard 10 mm with a short extension is too long because there is a metal guard stantion across the front of the engine compartment. For the bolt marked X, you can use a 10 mm open end or box end wrench, but for the one marked Y, the box end won't fit because of the crank case metal in that area, and the open end doesn't give you enough clearance to turn it even a 16th of a turn, which would make the job of loosening and then tightening upon reassembly very tedious. [B]Note:[/B] All the water pump bolts are only torqued to 7 ft-lbs, so they loosen relatively easily and once loosened, they can be un-threaded by hand. Loosen all four bolts (the three in the photo plus one to the left of the 12 o'clock bolt which is easily reached), but do not remove them yet. [B]4.[/B] Jack up the front of the vehicle and place jack stands under the two forward jacking support points. [B]See the article on how to safely get your vehicle on jack stands in this forum.[/B] Set the jack stand height to insure you can get under the vehicle. I used Rhino Ramps� under my front wheels. Jack up each side of the rear of the vehicle and place jack stands on the rear jack support points. Set the jack stand heights to match the front jack heights. [B]See the article on how to safely get your vehicle on jack stands in this forum.[/B] [B]Check to insure the car is secure and does not move or wobble - better to have the car slip off a stand and fall onto the garage floor now, instead of while you are underneath it! If done correctly, the car will not budge off the stands.[/B] [B]5.[/B] You will now need to remove the aero-dynamic under body panel from the front part of the engine compartment. It is held on with one T20 torx fastener and one 10 mm nut on each side of the car, plus one 10 mm nut in a recessed well dead center of the panel. ([B]See Figure C[/B] for location). [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/1/5/2/5/1/figure_c_aero_panel.jpg[/img] The panel is slip and snap fitted into the panel under the floor pan of the passenger compartment, so pay attention into how it is fit together before you pull it apart so you can get it back together properly. I didn't take any pictures of this, but it's pretty straight forward. The panel comes apart with some medium pulling and flexing. [B]6.[/B] With the panel removed, you can see the underside of the water pump. In my case, I could see coolant dripping from the bottom bolt on the lower side of the main coolant in-flow hose housing on the water pump housing. (See Figure D at the top of the article - for some reason, I couldn't upload it to the gallery to embed in the article) The bolt and gasket surrounding the bolt hole wasn't leaking, it's just the lowest point on the water pump housing and the leak around the shaft bearing seal just trickles down to this point. There is another bolt 180 degrees opposite the bottom hose fitting bolt, but it is easy to get to with the standard 10 mm socket on the 3/8 inch drive with a swivel head adapter. There is also the final bolt only accessible from the underside of the car on the water pump housing up and to the left side of the water pump when you are facing towards the rear of the car. Loosen to break the torque on these three remaining bolts, but do not remove them yet. [B]7.[/B] Squeeze the hose clamp with either a hose clamp tool or a large pair of adjustable grips, as denoted by the red arrow in [B]figure D[/B] to loosen it, and then slide it down the hose until it is well off the metal hose fitting of the water pump. [B]Note:[/B] you can see the coolant stains ([B]See Figure D[/B]) that have also dripped on the hose and dried, however, in my situation this was just cosmetic and easily cleaned off. Squeeze your hose and the other coolant lines in the area. They need to be soft and flexible. If they are hard or brittle feeling, you need to replace these, as they are close to being shot of their useful life. Check for any obvious leaks or other signs of wear. [B]8.[/B] With the hose clamp off, get your container to catch coolant ready and position it under the water pump. Pry off the hose with firm slight twisting and pulling. It will take a bit of force to break the seal and get it moving, but once it does, it will slide off fairly easily. [B]Note:[/B] Coolant will naturally gush from the pump housing and the hose side. You want to prevent the coolant from the hose side as much as possible when you pull the hose off the pump fitting as it will drain the entire system, which you should try to avoid unless you are going to flush and refill it completely (you will need containers capable of holding about 6 gallons of coolant if you do). To do this, simply bend the hose up sharply once it is disconnected. This will put a crease in the hose and stop the coolant flow. [B]See Figure E.[/B] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/1/5/2/5/1/figure_e.jpg[/img] With the hose bent up it can be bent behind a fitting (bar) and will stay in place until you are ready to reattach it. If your hoses are too worn, this would be the point where you'll put a tear in the hose, and you'll know it needs to be replaced. [B]9[/B]. Now remove the bottom three bolts on the water pump housing you already loosened. A few turns of the wrench, and you should be able to loosen all the way by hand. Be careful not to bung up the threads; take your time. Once removed, carefully reach into the car and finish removing the top four bolts you already loosened. Save the bolt at 12 o'clock for last. Remove it when you can have one hand on the water pump, because once you do, the pump will want to drop, but it comes out through the forward compartment door, not the bottom. You will need to carefully work it up and out, but she'll come with a little maneuvering. [B]Note:[/B] You will see that the original pump gasket will be loose, but there are two threaded insert ([B]See Figure F[/B]) that hold the gasket in place, so it will come out with the pump. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/1/5/2/5/1/figure_f.jpg[/img] No need to take care of it, it is a onetime use metal compression gasket and must be replaced. Your new water pump should have come with a gasket if you bought it from Suncoast. Pelican Parts sells the replacement pump without the gasket, so you need to order one separate, unless you buy the water pump + thermostat kit from Pelican. [B]10.[/B] [B]Figure F[/B] shows my old water pump. [B]Note the gap shown by the arrows.[/B] There should be no gap as shown in the picture of the replacement pump, [B]Figure G.[/B] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/1/5/2/5/1/figure_g.jpg[/img] The pulley and impeller on my old pump could be wobbled back and forth, and the pulley was hard to turn indicating it was binding on one side. Classic shaft bearing wear! Coolant leaks in the gap along the pulley shaft and leaks out the front of the housing. If this gets worse and you don't notice it, the shaft can eventually snap causing major coolant leaking (if you are lucky and shut down immediately) or depending on what engine rpms are at the time of failure, shattering of the impeller as well, which can send debris into the cooling system and result in potential catastrophic engine failure if the water jacket ports get blocked! [B]11.[/B] [B] Figure H.[/B] Shows the new water pump gasket. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/1/5/2/5/1/figure_h.jpg[/img] This is a metallic gasket with a channel pressed all the way around it on one side and a resultant bump on the other side. Don't worry, the gasket only can go on one way, which will put the bump on the water pump housing side. When you tighten the water pump bolts back to 7 ft-lbs, this compresses the bump and insures a positive leak proof seal. Once the water pump has been removed, the bump has already been flattened, hence this is a onetime use gasket. The gasket will fit very tightly around the two threaded inserts shown in [B]Figure F[/B]. It requires some force to get the gasket to seat on these inserts, so once seated, it won't easily pull away, thereby keeping it in the correct place during install of the new water pump. [B]12.[/B] Reinstall the new water pump by carefully sliding it down through the opening in the forward engine compartment. Have one of the bolts ready to thread into the 12 o'clock position hole to hold the pump in place. [B]Note:[/B] If you examine the 7 bolts you removed from the old water pump, you will notice that two of them are slightly longer than the other 5. These two go into the holes with the threaded inserts. The shorter ones go into the remaining 5 holes. I attached the bottom bolt of the pump housing next, then the bolt labeled Y in Figure B, because it's the most fiddly to deal with. Then the remaining bolts, all tightened by hand. Next, using a standard cross pattern, tighten all the bolts to 7 ft-lbs. To do this, tighten the top left and bottom bolt using a micro torque wrench set to 7 ft-lbs, and pay attention to how it feels when the torque wrench clicks to the torque value. You'll need to know how this feels, because you will not be able to use the torque wrench on all the bolts because of clearance (interference). But, 7 ft lbs is firmly snug, and doesn't take major strength (I think the anglo-German term is gutten tight). Do not over torque! You are just trying to compress the metal washer evenly and firmly. [B]13.[/B] Once the pump is in place and you are sure all the bolts have been firmly tightened, reattach the main coolant hose, and fasten with the hose clamp. Coolant will flow down into the water pump, so you can check for any obvious leaks. [B]See Figure I[/B] for a picture of the new pump installed. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/1/5/2/5/1/figure_i.jpg[/img] [B]Note:[/B] At this point, give the water pump pulley a few turns by hand to make sure it spins easily, and also to circulate the bit of coolant that drained down the main coolant line a chance to find any leaks. [B]14.[/B] Reattach the lower aerodynamic panel you removed in step 5. Don't worry, if there are any leaks, you'll see them with the panel in place. [B]15.[/B] Lower the vehicle back to the ground. [B]See the article on how to safely get your vehicle on jack stands in this forum.[/B] [B]16.[/B] Reattach the polyrib serpentine belt. It makes it easier if you have someone to help you from this point onward (my older son graciously volunteered!) as you'll need two hands to thread the belt while your friend rotates the tensioner pulley clockwise to add sufficient slack to get the belt back on all the pulleys correctly. [B]17.[/B] Reconnect the battery. Mix a gallon of coolant by adding half a jug of Porsche coolant and an equal amount of distilled water in a gallon container. [B]18.[/B] Remove the main coolant reservoir cap in the engine compartment See Figure J. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/1/5/2/5/1/figure_j.jpg[/img] Remove the coolant overflow tank cap in the rear hatch area where you add oil and coolant. Shine a light down the main coolant reservoir and you will notice a molded piece of plastic on the side ([B]See Figure K[/B]). When coolant just covers the plastic piece, it will also be between the minimum and maximum marks in the overflow tank tube you can see where you normally check the coolant level. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/1/5/2/5/1/figure_k.jpg[/img] [B]Note: [/B] The main coolant reservoir tank may be almost or completely empty at this point depending on how much coolant you lost from the system before you discovered you had a problem. Add coolant through the over flow tank using a funnel. Be careful not to splash coolant on your rear carpet. It would be good to have a few shop towels under the fluids access panel and also nearby. As you add coolant to the overflow tank, you will see it rise in the main coolant reservoir. Add until it covers the plastic piece in the tank. Now pull up on the wire handle in the small tank next to the coolant reservoir. This is the bleeder canister for the cooling system ([B]See Figure L[/B]). You will hear it gurgle and the coolant in the tank will flow down into the engine and cooling system. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/1/5/2/5/1/figure_l.jpg[/img] [B]Note[/B]:[B] Only let the coolant flow down until it is about a quarter inch from the bottom of the main reservoir tank, then release the bleeder handle to stop the flow. This will minimize any air from getting into the cooling system.[/B] Add more coolant and repeat the process until no more coolant flows down into the engine from the main coolant reservoir. [B]19.[/B] Start the engine, lower both windows, and set the heater controls to maximum and the fan on high. It will be loud with all the covers off, but most of us Porsche enthusiasts will find the music intoxicating!! Rev the engine to about 3000 rpm (very fast idle). Coolant will likely go down some. Add more to the over flow tank, and also burp the coolant system by pulling up on the bleeder handle. Repeat the process as long as coolant keeps flowing out of the main reservoir tank. Keep your eye on the temperature gauge. It will take a few minutes to react and then start climbing. It will also take several minutes for the heater to blow hot (not warm, hot!). Have your buddy keep an eye on the main coolant reservoir level and keep adding coolant if it goes down. Have him periodically repeat the bleeding (burping) by lifting up on the bleeder handle. Add a few revs up to 4500 rpm or so. This will cause the coolant to drop momentarily. Add more coolant and bleed. It will likely stop using coolant after about 10 minutes. The temp gauge will be at normal (175F), and the heater should be blowing hot. Once achieved, shut down. [B]20.[/B] Check under the car for leaks, shine your light on the hoses and the water pump fasteners and seam between the block and the pump housing to insure no coolant is leaking. If so, refasten the main coolant reservoir cap, then the overflow coolant reservoir cap. The coolant level at this point should be between the minimum and maximum reading in the overflow coolant reservoir neck. [B]21.[/B] Get in and go for a drive of about 5 miles, keeping an eye on the temp gauge, and with the heater still on maximum. It will be loud, but you will likely hear some very cool sounds that you don't normally hear, so enjoy! [B]22.[/B] Return and let the car cool down for at least 30 minutes. Carefully remove the coolant overflow reservoir cap. There most likely will be an escape of pressure, so be careful! If the coolant level is low, remove the main coolant reservoir cap and repeat the coolant filling process in [B]step 19[/B]. If everything has gone smooth to this point, she will likely only need a little bit more coolant. Check again for leaks. Then button her up and go for a longer drive, again keeping your eye on the temperature gauge. You don't need the heater on at this point. Incur either some high revs in a lower gear, or hill climbs if there are some in your neighborhood. This should be plenty of time for your engine's thermostat to open and allow coolant to flow through the front radiator cooling system. This will insure any air pockets are expelled to the bleed tank. Return and let cool completely. Open the coolant overflow reservoir cap and check the level. If she's between min and maximum, you are good to go. If it's dropped a bit again, [B]repeat step 22[/B], until coolant remains at between the min and max level in the coolant overflow reservoir tank neck. Your done!

Disable/Enable TPMS with Durametric Pro

Wed, 19 Dec 2012 11:47:13 -0600

by: lithium1330

Description: [B]DIY: Disable/Enable TPMS warning on the instrument cluster � FOR OFF-ROAD USE ONLY. [/B] You can download the PDF version of this here w/ better formatting for printing & readability: https://www.box.com/s/u4mion8ri4rw3w7phksm The basic steps to accomplish this task involve the use of Durametric Pro. So, I can�t take credit for originality, but I�m merely adding pictures and commentary to the original instructions. It�s been said this works on 997.1, 997.2, 987.1. The Professional cable is pretty powerful as it offers the owner ability to re-code (i.e., change Porsche factory configurations & settings that may do harm to you and your car.). Hence, this disclaimer: The car owner is solely responsible for their own car. The car owner assumes all responsibility, risks, issues and cost resulting from any modification they do on their own. The car owner is responsible to make sure their car remains compliant with their local/state/federal laws. If/when you decide to convert the car back for On-Road Use, you will need to follow the procedure to re-activate/turn-back-on TPMS controller. [B]Tools: [/B] [LIST] [*]Durametric Professional cable with software version 6.3.1.7 on a computer. The cable is manufactured by [url]www.Durametric.com[/url]. I purchased my cable from [url]www.Softronic.us[/url], but there are resellers/distributors everywhere. If you are able to borrow the cable from someone else, offer to buy the guy/gal a beer or lunch or something�b/c the Prof cable is a rather expensive tool. ☺ [*]T15 torx key/screw driver [*]11mm socket [/LIST] [B]1. Disconnect the TPMS control unit (997 618 103 06) located to the right of the brake booster.[/B] [LIST] [*]Open front trunk and dislodge the weather stripping that seals the front trunk. No need to remove the entire seal loop from the trunk. You will only need to dislodge the upper portion � so, the top and half way down each of the sides (see yellow lines annotated in picture on next page. [*][IMG]http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l628/lithium_1330/IMG_2382_zpsd4784c04.jpg[/IMG] [*]Remove the big plastic cover housing that protects your DVD/CDC/Brake booster. Remove 7 screws with a T15 torx screw driver � circled in red. Also removed the light and also a plastic carpet hold-down (red arrows). The plastic cover will come off as one unit and set that aside. [*][IMG]http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l628/lithium_1330/IMG_2383_zps80faa022.jpg[/IMG] [*]The TPMS control unit is the white/grey color box (red box) located next to the brake booster. Use the 11mm socket to remove the plastic nut (red arrow). [*][IMG]http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l628/lithium_1330/IMG_2375_zps63bff853.jpg[/IMG] [*]The connector has a swing arm connection (pretty cool design, btw). You simply need to (1) press down on the small catch tab (red circle), then (2) lift the pink swing arm (see insert). [*][IMG]http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l628/lithium_1330/IMG_2379_zps12647e6b.jpg[/IMG] [*]With TPMS control unit disconnected, you can put the control unit back on the car & tuck away the cable. That way, you can reconnect these at later time. I am paranoid, so wrapped the (now disconnected) connector cable in a small plastic bag. But that entire compartment is sealed from the element by the weather seal strip you removed earlier. [*]Put everything back together in the frunk is the reverse order. [*]Recoding with Durametric is next. [/LIST] [B]2. Recoding with Durametric Professional Cable. [COLOR="Red"]MAKE SURE YOU BACK-UP THE MODULES BEFORE MAKING ANY CODING CHANGES.[/COLOR][/B] [LIST] [*]Make sure you have comm between the Durametric software to your car by following the initiation procedure from the Durametric. For me (may or may not work for you), it was turn ignition to on position (not start the car), turn on hazard signal (supposedly to keep the CAN bus from going to sleep), plug in Durametric to ODBII, connect USB, start Duramtric software. [*]Go to Instrument Cluster node � Coding � remember to Back-up before making changes. [*]a) Coding � change Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) to Not Installed, and Nominal pressure display (TPM) to Not Active. [*][IMG]http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l628/lithium_1330/instcluster_zps8a0e56f5.jpg[/IMG] [*]b) Reset the Instrument Cluster node � Command � Send Reset. On my car, this caused the oil gauge to come on to say reading will be done in 60 min (counting down) [*] [IMG]http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l628/lithium_1330/command_zps30b58043.jpg[/IMG] [*]Go Gateway node � Coding � remember to Back-up before making changes. [*]a) Coding � Tire pressure monitor � Not Installed [*] [IMG]http://i1127.photobucket.com/albums/l628/lithium_1330/gateway_zpsb0d62621.jpg[/IMG] [*]b) I exited Durametric and went back later to do a short test to make sure everything is correct. [/LIST]

Race Glaze System

Sun, 18 Nov 2012 18:17:31 -0600

by: K-Man S

Description: I would like to thank Roger Chartier at DetailBest.com for sending me the products to be tested in this review. You can find these products and more at Roger's site (link at end of article) and I encourage you to check out their entire lineup. Let's start with an image of what I received: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6475.jpg[/img] There were 2 large blue microfiber cloths with different piles on each side of the cloth, a catalog of Race Glaze products, instructions on how to apply the products, AutoWash, Pre-Wax Cleaner, 4x4 Wax, a foam pad and a microfiber pad. I read the instructions that came with the products as well as the bottles to familiarize myself with the products and the process. The first step, of course, was to wash the car. I simply mixed up some of the AutoWash with warm water in my wash bucket. The wash soap was very slippery, foamed up well and had no problem removing dirt from the car. Here's a shot of washing the car: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6476.jpg[/img] I could have dried the car with the microfiber towels but since I hadn't waxed the car yet there was really no point so I used my standard terry towels to dry the car off. I know I probably should get some sort of professional chamois or something, although sometimes I do use one of those water blades to remove most of the beaded water first. After drying the car I pulled it into the garage to begin the next stage. The product you use next is the pre-wax cleaner, it is a non-abrasive paint cleaner. I should note that if your car has tar spots, or stuck on grime or dirt embedded into the paint you'll probably want to clay your car first, then follow with the pre wax cleaner. Cars with really bad scratches may even need some form of orbital polishing first before the pre wax cleaner stage. Given that it is non abrasive the cleaner isn't going to remove those types of problems, it is best as cleaning the paint, removing old wax, etc. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6480.jpg[/img] I applied the pre wax cleaner using the supplied foam pad and did so in a linear motion. I decided I was going to concentrate on doing the front fenders, hood and front bumper for this article as my time was limited and doing the entire car wasn't feasible in the timeframe I had. I should note, however, that both products I used (pre wax cleaner and wax) both went on very easily and came off very easily, in essence not taking a long time for such products. Here is the car with the pre wax cleaner applied: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6484.jpg[/img] (Side note, during the cleaning process I did find a couple of areas on my clear bra that were going to require polishing due to some bug staining and light scratches so I briefly used another product I already had to handle that type of work, then used the pre wax cleaner over it after done) You can see from the above photo that I used the pre wax cleaner on both the painted surfaces and the clear bra. After the pre wax cleaner hazed up I used one of the blue micro fiber towels to remove it. Here is a picture after the pre wax cleaner had been removed: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6485.jpg[/img] The next stage was to apply the Race Glaze 4x4 wax. At first I thought it was odd that Roger sent me the 4x4 wax, wasn't that for off-road vehicles? Actually it is their wax with the longest durability, but also a very high shine. I suggest reading their product catalog to choose whatever wax best meets your needs as they have a variety. The other thing that struck me as odd was the size of the container, it was smaller than most other wax containers I've purchased in the store. I wondered if I would have enough. I opened the container and was greated with a very pleasant smell, in fact it was making me hungry, although waxing the car was standing in the way between me and dinner. The instructions said that the wax could be applied with a foam applicator or with your bare hand. I decided to experiment and apply half of the car with my bare hand and the other half with the foam applicator just to see if there was any difference. Here is a picture of the first half which was done by hand: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6489.jpg[/img] This was followed by doing the other half with the foam pad: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6492.jpg[/img] It was actually fun to do the side by hand although my fingers started to hurt towards the end. Your body heat helps to soften the wax and let it glide on the surface so that you can put on a really thin but effective layer. After doing the first half I barely noticed any gone from the container, my worries about not having enough were put to rest. I should also say that doing the side with the foam applicator pad was much faster and given that I didn't see a different in the end results, go with the foam pad unless you have the time to get up close and personal with your car or just want to try the by-hand method. I let the wax glaze, which I discovered is hard to see with a yellow wax on a yellow car. I probably could have wiped it off sooner but wait for awhile just to be certain then removed the wax with the other blue micro fiber towel. I was pleased with how easily the wax went on, and just as pleased with how easily it came off, no hard rubbing, no streaking, etc. Although the directions warn against getting it on rubber, I didn't have a problem wiping it off where I had gotten some on the rubber around the headlights. How did it perform? Here is a picture that I think makes a good comparison. On the left hand side of the seam is the front fender which was cleaned and waxed. On the right hand side is the driver's door which was simply washed and dried. As you can see in the photo there is a haze or noticeable small micro scratches in the surface around the reflection of the light in the door, but the waxed side is smooth and doesn't show these imperfections. This is exactly what a good wax is supposed to do, hide the small stuff and give a good shine. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6495.jpg[/img] In the next picture you can see I have wiped off the wax on the driver's side half of the car but it is still waxed on the passenger side. It gives a chance to look at some reflections across the whole hood. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6499.jpg[/img] Next is a close up of the hood showing the reflections of the lights on my ceiling. You can really see the depth and shine in the paint. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6501.jpg[/img] Here is a frontal shot, pay attention to the light reflecting off the clear bra. There was a noticeable improvement in the gloss of the clear bra after the wax was removed. The wax did not stain the clear bra and appeared to do a good job on the clear bra surface. (some waxes either stain or don't do a good job). I should also point out that the wax did not build up along the seam of the clear bra either since it applies in a thin layer. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6503.jpg[/img] How about a complete hood and fender shine shot! [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6504.jpg[/img] Time to put the car away for the night. Total time spent was just over 2 hours which was about all I had. I estimate I could finish the rest of the car in another 2, maybe less since the washing is already done. I'm pretty meticulous when I clean and wax so I may also go slower than others would go. All in all I was very pleased with the products, they worked as advertised and I'll have to come back in a few months to report on how long the wax holds up for. As with some similar products you can continue to apply more coats of the Race Glaze wax should you desire more protection or a deeper shine. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6507.jpg[/img]

Rolling Jack Arm Extensions

Tue, 09 Oct 2012 21:20:30 -0500

by: K-Man S

Description: Some of you may recall my earlier article about the installation of the Quality Lift in my garage. I've been able to put the lift to good use with my father's Jaguar but haven't used it much with the Cayman because I haven't had to do any significant work on it. Awhile back someone from Quality called me and asked if I had used the rolling jack with my car. I told them I had to take a wheel off one time, but had only lifted one side of the car. Evidently, if you try to lift both sides of the car you can barely reach the edge of the jacking points with the rolling jack arms fully extended and Quality didn't think that was safe enough and set about designing a solution to allow the jack arms to be extended even further out. Quality sent me a set of new arms for my rolling jack (not all rolling jacks will need new arms, just the early production ones like what I have) and a set of extensions for the arms to allow the arms to attach to wider spaced jack spots on our cars. Here is the default arm with no pad on the end of it: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6007.jpg[/img] Here is the arm extended as far as it will go with the pad installed. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6008.jpg[/img] The first thing I had to do was take out the two screws that hold the retaining block that keeps the arm from pulling all the way out. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6009.jpg[/img] Here are the two arms side by side, my original one on top, the new one on the bottom. Note the difference is basically that the arm is notched for the extension sleeve to fit over it. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6010.jpg[/img] Here I have installed the new black arm and have slide the sleeve over the end of the arm. I have not yet put the yellow retaining pin down through the sleeve and arm to lock them in place. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6011.jpg[/img] Now I have put the pad into the end of the sleeve and pushed the yellow pin down through the sleeve and through the black arm. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6012.jpg[/img] For arguments sake I didn't want to park perfectly centered on the lift, but rather park one side centered which then places the other side closer to the outer edge of the lift. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6016.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6017.jpg[/img] To show what this would look like WITHOUT the extension sleeves I took the following photos. The first one shows the left side of the car where I centered the wheel on the lift. As you can see the rubber pad on the end of the arm is centered under the jack point with the black arm fully extended. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6018.jpg[/img] Unfortunately, over on the passenger / right side of the car the jack point is outside of the rubber pad on the end of the arm with the arm fully extended. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6019.jpg[/img] Of course if I would have centered the car on the lift I could have caught both jack points with the ends of the rubber pads, but again Quality didn't think that was ideal or safe enough and wanted to provide a better solution for Porsche owners. I also find it hard to perfectly center the car on the lift by myself, so no need to make this operation any harder than it has to be, by supplying the extensions the problem is solved. Here is the extension on the drivers side: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6020.jpg[/img] Here is the extension on the passenger side: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6021.jpg[/img] As you can see it is now possible to center the pads underneath the jacking points, even when the car is parked off-center on the lift. Time to jack up the car! Here is the car after it has been jacked up (not to full height, just to first locking point on the rolling jack): [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6022.jpg[/img] Here is a shot from the rear that shows the car lifted in the rear with one arm more extended than the other to account for my sloppy parking job. Looks like I need to polish up those stainless mufflers! [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6023.jpg[/img] I'd like to thank Quality Lifts for supplying me with these arm extensions and for taking the time to develop a solution for Porsche owners. The parts are well made and easy to use and I highly recommend that you get a set of these arm extensions if you are planning to work on your Porsche and need to raise it up using the rolling jack.

Side Intake Scoops

Sun, 07 Oct 2012 20:57:46 -0500

by: K-Man S

Description: As some of you may recall, I installed the MotorLux carbon fiber side scoops a few years ago and they've remained on my car ever since. The side scoops lasted longer than MotorLux did (they are no longer in business). Truth be told, I was never overly fond of the way the driver's side scoop attached with must some wire bending to try and make it hold tight against the body of the car. It was a pain to reach around inside of the scoop and bend the wires so that everything would sort of stay in place. Enter Fluid987 and their updated rendition of the same style carbon fiber side scoop. Fluid987 worked closely with former member John Copeland before he passed away in an attempt to make a better side scoop. Let's start by comparing the old MotorLux to the new Fluid987. Here's a picture of the backside of both: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5968.jpg[/img] As you can see with the MotorLux one on the right the wires used for crimping the part on have turned a lovely shade of rust in the intervening years. They were still plenty strong, but would it have hurt them to use stainless wires? You can also see the weave pattern is different, I went with the 1x1 pattern for the new scoops although I believe that they are available in other patterns from Fluid987. You may also note that Peter uses a lot of silicone adhesive to hold the wire mesh in place, while this is fine, it did actually cause me an issue on the passenger side when I wanted to try an alternative method of installation, but more on that later. Here is a frontal shot of both scoops: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5969.jpg[/img] See the Article Gallery for a close up of the MotorLux piece which had started to lose some gloss to its surface, the finish on the Fluid987 piece was far superior in gloss, thickness and perceived durability. Another close up of the Fluid987 piece: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5971.jpg[/img] Now that I had removed the MotorLux piece from the driver's side (US vehicle reference for sides) you can see that I still had a mesh piece installed over the plastic pins on the retainer ring inside the vent housing. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5973.jpg[/img] Here is the vent piece removed from the car, it simply pulls out with some tugging. That's important to note because if you attached something to this vent or these posts it could simply pull the piece out. This is why in Fluid987 included instructions they want you to drill through the plastic and install sheet metal screws to hold the ring to the body of the car. While that approach certainly will work and many installs have been done that way, I decided I didn't want to do that if I could avoid it and came up with an alternative method. Let's look at the hardware included with the drivers side install in the kit from Fluid987. It consists of 2 springs with wires attached to stretch them (although I took these off and used either a needle nose pliers or a T-spring puller tool - but mostly pliers once I settled on springs), a small steel plate with nut, screw and washers, and 4 sheet metal screws. (which I didn't use) [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5976.jpg[/img] I took some photos of the factory driver's side plastic and how the plastic pins fit in the black plastic housing for the factory side pieces for those who wanted some close ups of what those look like and how they come apart. Check the articles gallery link for those photos. I went to the local hardware store and bought a piece of aluminum to make brackets out of, here is the piece with the specs on the label: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5981.jpg[/img] I then inserted the piece into the side vent housing opening to determine how long of a piece I would need to cut. It turns out that about 3-1/2 inches works for both sides, although the right (rearward side) could be a little longer if you want. I then drilled a hold using a 3/16 drill bit for the hardware to attach to the car body and a smaller hole for the spring to attach to. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5982.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5983.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5984.jpg[/img] At this point I tried to install one of my brackets with the springs included from Fluid987. This next picture shows that I cut down one of the brackets trying to be able to use the short spring included with the kit but I found the short spring much too hard to stretch into place. It was so hard in fact that I bent my bracket and bent the steel tab that is part of the car body at one point. I ended up sourcing 2 new springs from my local Nuts&Bolts store (spring #86 in their assortment boxes). The new, longer and easier to stretch spring is on the right: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5986.jpg[/img] I then proceeded to test fit the attachment point at the upper right of the driver's side scoop, the next photo shows that I've stretched the spring and attached it to the wire loop on the scoop. This picture was hard to take since I had to hold the scoop back against the spring tension and the camera at the same time! [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5987.jpg[/img] Here is the bracket and spring I made for the upper left attachment point on the driver's side. I made this aluminum piece long enough to go under the metal tab on the body and all the way to the back where the mesh screen is. The bolt and nut were 8/32 and I used a standard washer on the front side and a lock washer on the back. I sourced these nuts, bolts and washers at my local Nuts&Bolts hardware store. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5989.jpg[/img] and a shot of the upper right bracket and spring [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5991.jpg[/img] Next I installed the lower steel bracket with the hardware provided in the kit and placed a dab of silicone on the bracket. In the Fluid987 instructions they want you to put a big ball of it on the bracket and then press the scoop into the silicone and let it sit for 24 hours to solidify an hold it in place. I wasn't fond of "gluing" something to my car, my thought being "what if I want to remove these scoops at some point?" so I decided to use the blob simply mark the back side of the scoop where it would touch the bracket. You can see in the next picture by my thumb some of the silicone that came off on the back of the scoop after allowing it to mount up and touch the metal bracket. (Yes I had to install then remove then reinstall the upper springs for this operation) [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5994.jpg[/img] Instead I decided to install 1/2" magnets (available at hardware or arts and crafts stores) to hold the lower part of the scoop to the steel bracket behind it. I used some Gorilla Glue to attach the magnet to the back of the scoop and let it dry a couple of hours before fitting up to the car. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5995.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5997.jpg[/img] [b]Passenger Side[/b] While I waited for the glue to dry for the magnet on the back of the driver's side scoop I decided to take apart the passenger side. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5998.jpg[/img] Here is the backside of the MotorLux scoop that I took off. If there was one thing I thought MotorLux did well it was to purchase the interior plastic housing for the passenger side and adapt their scoop to make use of that housing. You can see that they had 2 bolts that were epoxy'd to the back of the scoop then those bolts went through holes in the factory plastic piece and had washers and nuts to hold them in place. This created a single unit that installed exactly the same way as the factory piece using the plastic pins that would catch in the black plastic backing piece. I really wish that Fluid987 would take the same approach here. The primary reason is that with the black backing piece in place the interior of the vent opening is sealed against the elements. With the Fluid987 installation method there is a gap where water could get back inside. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5999.jpg[/img] I attempted to mate up the factory piece with the Fluid987 outer scoop but due to too much silicone and the way the mesh was installed I could not make it work. If I could get a scoop without the mesh in place yet I think I could get these parts together (with springs no less) and then have a complete unit to simply clip into place. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6001.jpg[/img] Since I couldn't do that without possibly ruining the outer scoop from Fluid987 I decided to follow their installation method instead. The next step is to drill holes in the inner plastic to put cotter pins with springs attached through the holes. Here is the upper left hole which I drilled using the provided drill bit. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6002.jpg[/img] The right side is trickier to do. First you need to feel where the plastic ends and the rubber attached to it begins. You do NOT want to drill just through the rubber or that will weaken and rip over time. Instead you need to drill through the plastic just beyond the rubber. In the next picture I am holding the rubber back to the right so you can see the plastic and see the hole I drilled through it. I used a short drill that I had as the small drill bit with tape on it to use by hand just didn't work well for me. Therefore, I'd recommed getting your hands on a small drill to make this job a lot easier. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6003.jpg[/img] Here's that same spring after I've used my needle nose pliers to pull it outward and attach it to the loop on the side scoop. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6004.jpg[/img] I repeated the same process with installing the steel piece at the bottom, applying silicone to mark the backside of the scoop, then installing a magnet with gorilla glue. As luck would have it I needed to leave for a few hours and do something else so when I got back I installed the scoops on both sides using springs at the top and the magnet at the bottom. Although the scoops feel pretty solid, if the magnets don't work out well I can always glue them in place with silicone adhesive, or use bigger magnets or more steel plates on the side with another magnet, etc. but so far things are holding up nicely. Here's a shot of both sides installed: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6005.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_6006.jpg[/img] I should note that at the very bottom tip of the passenger side scoop there is a tiny gap between the black rubber that outlines the scoops and the housing opening itself but it is pretty small and I don't see it as being an issue. Overall the parts were very nice and the installation, while a bit tedious at times while trying to stretch springs, wasn't overly difficult. I'm confident members could install these using the directions and methods provided by Fluid987, or using an alternative method like the one I chose for the driver's side scoop. If you have any questions please ask me in the forum or via email and I'll do my best to answer them. [b]OPTIONAL PASSENGER SIDE INSTALL METHOD DISCUSSED HERE:[/b] http://www.planet-9.com/cayman-boxster-modifications/56580-cf-motor-lux-styled-side-vents-interest-list-57.html#post667271 Gallery of Additional Article Images is Here: http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/browseimages.php?perpage=64&c=689

Single Fan Pack

Sun, 16 Sep 2012 20:39:20 -0500

by: Rob VN

Description: This article describes the installation of an external air to oil cooler on my 2007 Cayman 2.7L. The cooler is mounted on the left side of the trans axle with air from under the car fed to the cooler. I want to keep my engine oil temperature as close to 200 degrees as possible during hard driving on the track in sunny FL and gain some additional oil pressure promised by the deletion of the stock oil cooler. The major elements of this install are a Setrab single fan pack & mounting kit, 180 degree fan thermostat, LN oil cooler bypass plate, Earl's 180 degree oil thermostat, four AN-12 hoses, air duct & air hose and aluminum bracketry to mount the cooler and oil thermostat. As usual I chose to buy prefabricated hoses for this project rather make a mistake and create a low or no oil pressure situation. If your car is dedicated to the track the oil thermostat and two hoses could be left out of the installation. Warning: You must perform the assembly of the plumbing with absolute attention to cleanliness because any garbage you introduce will go straight to your bearings. This system operates after the oil filter. Piping and hose routing diagrams are shown below. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/external_oil_cooler_sht_1.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/external_oil_cooler_sht_3.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/external_oil_cooler_sht_2.jpg[/img] Here are the four AN-12 hoses. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/individual_hoses.jpg[/img] The hoses that connect to the oil cooler bypass plate are shown here. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/bypass_plate_oil_hoses.jpg[/img] The two hoses that connect the fan pack and the oil thermostat are shown below. Installation update: I had to swap these two hoses to get them to fit. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/hose_3_final.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/final_hose_2.jpg[/img] The general area for oil hose routing to engine. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/hoses_to_engine_1.jpg[/img] LN Engineering oil cooler bypass plate top view is shown below. You'll have to get four new longer socket head cap screws M6-1.00 X 25 and washers to attach the plate to the block as the mounting ears are much thicker than the stock cooler. Thanks to Paradigm we know what the ports do. AN-12 ports are provided with the bypass plate. The bypass plate has a nice 3/8 NPT pipe plug that cries out to be replaced by a 300 degree F sending unit so actual unfiltered coolant temperature readings can be seen in the cockpit. A VDO 300 F sender P/N 323-059 will fit and is compatible with my existing temperature gauge. I am able to display engine oil, trans axle oil and coolant temperatures, one at a time in the cockpit. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/top_view_of_bypass_plate_750890.jpg[/img] The bottom side is shown here: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/bottom_of_cooler_872083.jpg[/img] This is a poor photo of where the oil cooler/bypass plate lives on the left rear side of the engine. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/oil_cooler_ports_on_block.jpg[/img] Here is a photo of the water temp sender, longer cooler mounting bolts and metric ball tip allen drivers to help with the installation. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/sender_bolts_allen_wrenches.jpg[/img] This is the underside of my 996 oil cooler that was removed in this escapade. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/underside_of_oil_cooler.jpg[/img] Here is the oil cooler bypass plate installed for fit check with hoses #1 & #4 that connect to the oil thermostat. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/bypass_plate_fit_check.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/temp_sender_installed.jpg[/img] The SETRAB single fan pack is shown below. Project uses AN-12 plumbing. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/assembled_fan_pack_top_mount.jpg[/img] The fan pack will require two adapters to AN-12 male fittings, SETRAB 22-MA12. You will need a 33MM counterhold when you tighten the adapters onto the fan pack. The photo below shows the AN-12 SETRAB 180 degree F fan switch. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/fan_switch.jpg[/img] Here is the the fan pack mounting plate made from 1/8 aluminum. The mounting plate has a bolt on angle bracket at the top to connect via a short aluminum strut to the nut on the bottom of the LHS trans axle mount. http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/fan_pack_mounting_plate.jpg Here is the mounting plate installed to the fan pack. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/assembled_fan_pack_and_mount_front.jpg[/img] The mounting plate attaches to the LHS trans axle mount with the top angle bracket shown here. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/top_mount.jpg[/img] Here is a rear view of the assembled fan pack showing the two lower angle braces. The larger angle bracket runs under the fan pack while the second angle brace provides additional rigidity to the lower part of the assembly. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/fan_pack_installed_4.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/assembled_fan_pack_rear_view.jpg[/img] Here are a series of photos showing the cooler installed. The top fan pack brace that attaches to the LHS trans axle nut, the shim washers to separate the cooler from the mounting plate and parts of the SETRAB mount. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/fan_pack_installed_1.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/fan_pack_installed_2.jpg[/img] The fan motor comfortably clears the angle brace as not shown here. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/fan_pack_installed_3.jpg[/img] The air duct attaches to the fan pack mounting plate with two bolts, lock nuts and large washers. This allows the duct to be installed first followed by the fan pack. The inner duct bolt/washer combo nearest the trans axle is installed and left loose. The outer duct bolt/washer can then be installed and both sides tightened down. My theories with tie wraps didn't work out since the duct did not extend far enough on either side. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/duct_tie_down.jpg[/img] The oil thermostat from Earl's is shown in the following photos. A bonus feature of this oil thermostat is that is has three 1/8 NPT gauge ports if you haven't already made arrangements to measure oil temperature and pressure. I like the Earl's unit because it appears to be repairable. Hopefully I won't get to find out about that. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/img_2301.jpg[/img] You will need to buy two pairs of AN-12 port fittings for the oil thermostat. Below is a close up of the oil thermostat with the connections to the engine oil system on the left side and the connections to the cooler on the right. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/earls_oil_thermostat_close_up.jpg[/img] Here is the third gauge port on the oil thermostat and maintenance access to the internals. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/img_2307.jpg[/img] Here is where the oil thermostat mounts on LHS of trans axle. The middle mounting bolt needs a washer between the mounting plate and the trans axle since it is inset relative to the other threaded holes. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/tstat_fit_check.jpg[/img] The oil thermostat mounts with two 1/4-20 bolts and needs to be spaced away from the mounting plate one washer thickness so the AN-12 fittings can be tightened. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/tstat_mounting_plate.jpg[/img] Three metric bolts M10-1.50 X 25 attach the plate to the trans axle. Blue thread locker was used on the threads. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/tstat_mounting_bolts.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/tsat_mounted_to_plate.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/rear_view_tsat_plate.jpg[/img] The mounting plate is 1/8 " aluminum from the aerospace scrap bin. Additional photos from the installation are shown below. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/hoses_to_engine_1.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/img_2303.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/img_2305.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/sender_bolts_allen_wrenches.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/lhs_trans_axle_nut.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/hose_3_final.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/hoses_1_and_4_in_place.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/hose_2_and_3_at_fan_pack.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/final_hose_2.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/bypass_plate_installed.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/an12_wrench.jpg[/img] The tasks to be performed for this modification in rough order are given below. Feel free to improvise. -If you have an Accusump make sure it has stored pressure for use later to pre-lube the cooler. If no Accusump not to worry, there is a backup plan -Remove the top engine cover -Loosen the lug nuts/bolts on left rear wheel -Raise the rear of the car safely -Remove the left rear tire -Remove the aft under car tray for pulling a coolant hose -Drain and capture some coolant by a method of your choice (I pulled a hose on the X hose) -Remove the oil filter to allow some of the oil to drain out of the stock oil cooler -Remove the existing water to oil cooler -Folks with stock intake plenum may have to remove the throttle assembly to remove the stock oil cooler, YMMV. Those with SRP are good but tight. -Remove the four T40 torx bolts that attach the oil cooler to the block. I used my grabber to recover the bolts. Slip a plastic bag under the cooler to to try catch some of the oil & water when removing the oil cooler. -Cleanup the block after your unsuccessful attempt to capture the oil & water trapped in the cooler -Build up the oil cooler bypass plate by installing the AN-12 male fittings, barbed hose fitting and 3/8 NPT temperature sender if so inclined. -If you installed a coolant temperature sender, run the sender wire and a ground wire clamped to the body of the sender towards your wiring harness now. Once the oil cooler bypass plate is installed you won't be able get to the sender without pulling the LHS intake manifold or pulling the oil cooler bypass plate -Install the oil cooler bypass plate with new O rings: two each of P/N 999 707 389 40 and 999 707 409 40. My dealer had to order these so buy them ahead of time. You will have to raise the wiring loom at the forward edge of the oil cooler bypass plate so the plate will fit with the temp sender installed -Apply blue thread locking compound and torque the new longer oil cooler bypass plate M6-1.00 X 25 socket head cap screws with flat washers to 84 inch/lbs The cap screws gave me an excuse to buy a set of 'long' ball head metric allen drivers. The cap screws I bought locally required a 5 mm allen wrench. -Install the two AN-12 oil hoses loosely onto the oil cooler bypass plate and route them down and back towards the oil thermostat, above the axle -Build up the oil thermostat by installing four AN-12 adapters and three 1/8 NPT pipe plugs if you aren't going to use the sender ports -Attach the oil thermostat to the mounting plate using two 2" long 1/4" stainless carriage bolts and two fender washers as spacers to get the thermostat away from the mounting plate (so the AN-12 fittings will clear the mounting plate when tightened) -Install the assembled oil thermostat and plate to the LHS of the trans axle. Use a 3/8" washer on the middle bolt under the plate as a shim to allow the plate to lie flat against the trans axle. Use three M10 X 1.5 X 25 mm bolts and 3/8" washers with blue thread locking compound to attach the plate to the trans axle. Folks with 6 speed trans axles will need a different oil thermostat plate design -Attach the oil lines hand tight onto the thermostat cooler ports. The aft oil cooler bypass plate hose (output) goes to the engine input (bottom LHS of oil thermostat). Similarly the forward oil cooler bypass plate hose goes to the engine output of the oil thermostat (top LHS of oil thermostat) -If you had to remove the intake plenum, re-install it -Tighten the oil lines from the bypass plate at the oil thermostat. I bought an AN-12 aluminum wrench (trimmed it) to tighten the fittings. -Pre-assemble the fan pack to the mounting plate along with the an AN-12 90 fitting and fan thermostat and an AN-12 45 fitting. Use blue thread locker on the Setrab button head mounting bolts so they stay put. Drill two holes on either side of the cooler and install 1/2" fender washer and 1/4 inch stainless hardware to capture the air duct -Install the air duct and a one foot piece of three inch air hose into the car before the cooler goes in. The fan pack is deep enough to not fit in with the air duct attached. Use silicon sealant on the hose to the air duct and tighten the three inch hose clamp. Tie wrap the air hose so it won't get into the path of the axle. -Loosen and remove the LHS outer trans axle mount nut -Place the fan pack assembly on the aluminum angle at the bottom of the cooler and match drill to the reinforcing plate under the transmission using 1/4 inch stainless hardware and lock nut -Match drill an additional aluminum angle at the bottom cooler aluminum angle and to the reinforcing plate under the transmission using 1/4 " stainless hardware -Fabricate and install a short strut of aluminum plate between the cooler mounting plate and the bottom nut of the LHS trans axle mount attachment bolt you removed earlier -Using blue thread locker reinstall the LHS outer trans axle mount nut with the strut in place. Torque to 24 ft/lbs. -Attach and tighten all the oil lines and fittings from the oil thermostat cooler ports to the fan pack -Run the fan thermostat electrical connections in series with the fan connections to a source of ignition switch controlled 12 VDC power -If you installed a coolant temperature sender, connect the sender wire and a ground wire clamped to the body of the sender to your temperature gauge setup -Pre-oil your engine to fill some of the plumbing. Those of us with an Accusump know what to do. Folks without an Accusump can pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine to get some oil pressure to fill the plumbing. -If you pulled the fuel pump fuse, re-installl it -Refill and bleed the cooling system using the method of your choice ( if you are starting the engine to bleed the cooling system be sure to do the pre-oil step above first ) -Start the engine and check for leaks -Install aft under car tray if there are no coolant leaks and it was removed -Reinstall the left rear wheel and torque the lug nuts/bolts to 96 ft/lbs -Lower the car, test drive and continue to check for leaks and operation -Check engine oil level and add as necessary after the oil has warmed up (about one quart may be needed plus some lost pulling the oil filter) -Install the engine top cover -The cooling fan will run when the oil temperature exceeds 180 deg F Parts List from various suppliers without affiliation: From Ventura Speed and Hose -Setrab single fan pack 50-119-7612 -Two Setrab AN-12 male adapters 22-M22A12 -Setrab mounting kit 23-6002 -Setrab TS180-12 180 degree fan thermostat -Three XRP AN-12 90 degree female swivel to male adapters From LN Engineering - oil cooler bypass plate P/N 106-22 From Amazon - Earl's 180 degree oil thermostat P/N 501ERL - XRP AN-12 45 degree female swivel to male adapter From Summit Racing - Two pairs of oil thermostat AN-12 male fittings P/N 585112ERL From Pegasus -four AN-12 hoses made from 910 Kevlar: Hose 1 19" 120 degree fixed female end ( bypass plate output port ) ; 45 degree swivel female end ( oil thermostat E in port ) Hose 2 10" 90 degree fixed female end ( oil thermostat cooler output ) ; 45 degree swivel female end ( fan pack outlet port ) Now used as Hose #3 Hose 3 9" 90 degree fixed female end ( oil thermostat cooler input ) ; straight fixed female end ( fan pack thermostat inlet ) Now used as hose #2 Hose 4 23" 90 degree fixed female end ( bypass plate inlet port ) ; 45 degree swivel female end ( oil thermostat E out port ) From RPW -SPA-D107 air duct -THE-NN300 three inch air hose From JEGGS -AN-12 open end fitting wrench -Qty 3 1/8 NPT pipe plugs for oil thermostat sender ports -VDO 323-059 300 F 3/8 NPT temperature sender From Lowes -Qty 4 M6-1.00 X 25 socket head cap screws -Qty 4 M6 flat washers -Ball head metric allen drivers with 3/8 drive Post installation comments: the AN-12 hoses are pretty stiff. Hoses 2 and 3 will need attention to routing and may need to be different length than shown here. These hoses also bear the motion of the engine and trans axle relative to the fan pack. Currently working an oil leak at Hose #2 and the oil thermostat. Hoses 1 & 4 worked as designed. On an 80 degree evening test drive the oil temperature observed was 180 degrees. Oil warm up time was about equal to stock warm up time. the fan was running, confirming the 180 degree oil temperature. Observed hot idling oil pressure was still 20 PSI with CASTROL Syntec 5W40. 9/16/12:Today it was 85 degrees so the oil temp got to 200 degrees driving on local roads. Water temp from the bypass plate sender match the instrument cluster temp gauge at 175 degrees. Tightened the fitting at that was oozing, so far so good. 9/20/12: Several 85 mph runs at 90 deg F air temperature I observed an oil temperature of 200 degrees F. Small oil leak from oil thermostat elbow persists. The fan on the cooler never shuts off once the engine is up to temperature. Conclusion 1: the single fanpack is not large enough for this application. As an engine oil cooler Setrab lists it capable as an EOC for 150 hp engine. At least a second fan pack would be needed although mounting it on the passenger side doesn't seem possible to me. TTP's external oil cooler kit places the oil cooler in front of the third radiator with a back up fan. Conclusion 2: the plumbing leaks could lead to problems especially at the track. Conclusion 3: the third radiator and 996 oil cooler seem to offer the simplest solution. I removed the external cooler and re-installed the 996 oil cooler.

Part # 84880 SKU: 9673221

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 11:51:31 -0500

by: Giantkiller

Description: This article is for people tired of replacing the clutch switch that allows the car to start. My clutch switch went out in my new 2012 Cayman R and I read many posts of this happening over and over again. So I completely bypassed the ignition/ start switch with a kill switch. The car will not start without it. Basically I unplugged the brown and black wire from the start/ignition switch and hooked it directly to the kill switch instead. I can either keep it on all the time for every day ops, or click it off so the car won't start. It is really nice not to have to push in the clutch to start or worry about getting stranded because the factory switch failed again. To bypass the switch with the PepBoys one follow these instructions: Unplug the brown and black wires from the bottom of the factory switch. It is not the bottom switch with the red plug, that is cruise control. The start switch is the metal and white switch that shares the same bracket and has a flip switch on top. Next take a razor and shave a little more space into the opening where you will put the pepboys switch, it only takes a few mm more to make it fit. You do not need to modify the factory wires at all. They plug right into the new switch and reach the mounting point. Then put the brown and black wires on the new switch and snap it into place under the dash, completly bypassing the factory switch all together. Job will take about 5 minutes and total costs are $10.

NEW iPhone 4 4G 3GS Car Mount CD Dash Holder Cradle Kit

Sat, 25 Aug 2012 10:08:33 -0500

by: jerry944s2

Description: I am a big fan of my Dension Gateway 500 with BTA but.............that user interface is challenging. I have a 32 gig thumb drive with music and locating the album I'm looking for can be a challenge. I recently upgraded to a new cell phone so I took my old iphone and am using it as an ipod in the Cayman, hooked up to the Gateway and using the iphone interface. Works great but needed a place to mount it. Scanning ebay I noticed this mount for $20. easy install; it just fits in the CD slot or any gap in the dash. Seems well made and several options for location. I finally decided to mount it on the passenger side, the cup holder clears and I can shift into 5th without hitting it. I think I'll leave the thumb drive in the car but the ipod will be my first choice for music. We'll see how it holds up. Lousy photos but they convey the idea.

50-113-7612

Sat, 18 Aug 2012 13:56:08 -0500

by: Rob VN

Description: This article describes the installation of a trans axle oil cooler onto my 2007 Cayman 5 speed. I was inspired by Al Norton's article on RENNTRACK.com where he added a water to transmission oil cooler to his 996 Turbo. It is reversible ( no drilling of the transaxle case ). The trans axle oil cooler is a longevity modification for track operation since our Cayman trans axles are bathed in heat from both the engine and exhaust system. The system consists of an air to oil cooler, oil pump, filter, fan, temp sensor and fan temperature switch and four AN-8 hoses. The trans axle cooler and most parts mount on the right side of the trans axle with due respect for the motion of the shift linkages, axles and suspension parts. I wanted to retain the trans axle cooling baffle and there wasn't room for NACA ducts and the trans axle cooling baffle so I allowed the 3" air duct to protrude slightly into the airstream. Again this installation is for a 5 speed. Cooler Installation on a 6 speed will have some differences. This installation is my approach, YMMV. A piping diagram of the system is shown here: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/piping_diagram.jpg[/img] A hose routing diagram is shown here: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/hose_routing.jpg[/img] Dimensions for cutting a trans axle drain access hole in the chassis reinforcement plate is shown here: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/5_spd_drain_access_hole.jpg[/img] The system consists of the following components: R B Racing 03-1040 small 12 volt oil pump with metal gears (the Tilton pump was too big) rated at 2 GPM and 20 PSI. A link to R B Racing is: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm Setrab also sells a twin brother to this pump, their number 17-311. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/pump_no_2.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/oil_pump_and_bracket.jpg[/img] Setrab 113 oil cooler with 180 degree fan thermostat and mount. Per SETRAB this cooler holds 0.15 quarts of fluid. A three inch hose is mounted next to the transaxle air scoop and feeds air into the cooler. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/setrab_oil_cooler_for_transaxle.jpg[/img] The performance specs are given here: http://www.setrabusa.com/pdf/Applica...ons_112610.pdf Weights and capacities are shown here: http://www.setrabusa.com/pdf/ProLine...ies_112610.pdf To tighten the AN-8 adapters onto the oil cooler to 29.5 ft/lbs you need a 33 mm open end wrench to act as a counterhold. The wrench fits onto the oil cooler ports. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/33_mm_wrench.jpg[/img] I bought a service wrench set from Harbor Freight shown here. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/service_wrench_set.jpg[/img] I used a SPAL VA32-A101-62A 12V puller fan shown here. It can pull 148 CFM at 0 static pressure. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/fan.jpg[/img] The fan is mounted to a plate the connects the top and bottom of the Setrab cooler mounting brackets which allow the cooler to be isolated from the mounting system. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/fan_mounting_plate.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/front_of_fan_plate_assembled.jpg[/img] Foam weather stripping is applied around the fan opening in the plate to seal the airflow between the cooler and fan. I wasn't able to get a mate to the fan connector. It is made by Summitomo. I used insulated push on connectors. The pictures below show the cooler and fan switch assembled. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/rear_view_assembled_cooler.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/lhs_cooler_assembly.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/assembled_cooler.jpg[/img] Moroso 23870 in line screen filter with internal magnets added [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/filter_close_up.jpg[/img] A female Y block with 1/2 NPT ports used as a gauge port to hold the 1/8-27 NPT VDO 300 degree temperature sender [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/filter_and_y_billet.jpg[/img] Five 90 degree AN8 male to female swivel adapters Adapters and fittings to convert the M24 X 1.5 drain and fill plugs into AN8 male fittings via banjo fittings. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/banjo_fittings.jpg[/img] The reducer bushing installed in the fill port will increase the distance of the "dipstick" needed to measure the 5 speed transaxle fluid level by + 5.7 mm for a total of 11 mm + 5.7 mm = 16.7 mm. A 27 mm or 1 1/8 socket is required to tighten the bushing into the transaxle. Folks doing this mod with the 6 speed transaxle would require a different calculation. (The bushing dimensions will be different and the 6 speed fill is done with oil just even with the bottom of the fill port). Photo of the dipstick made from coat hanger: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/dip_stick_drain_plug_bit.jpg[/img] Three prefabricated AN-8 2 foot hoses with female ends were used to plumb most parts. One 3 foot hose needs to run to the trans axle fill port ( now serving as the cooled oil return ), under the trans axle from the pump. The hoses were wrapped in protective 5/8 split heater hose. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/an8_hose.jpg[/img] This system draws hot trans axle oil from the drain port at the bottom of the trans axle, through a screen filter to a female billet Y block with 1/2 NPT ports and a 1/8 NPT gauge port where a 300 degree F VDO oil sender is mounted. One 1/2" port is is plugged on the billet Y block. This was done because of the length of the VDO temperature sensor ( ~7/8" ) was too long for an AN-8 gauge port. The trans axle oil temperature is displayed on an oil temperature instrument in the cockpit. An AN8 hose connects from the billet Y block to the oil cooler through a 180 degree F fan thermostatic switch. The cooled oil flows from the cooler to the inlet of the oil pump. This allows the pump to receive cooled oil. The oil coming out of the pump passes through a AN8 hose and is routed back to the transaxle fill port on the drivers side of the transaxle. The 5 speed transaxle uses M24 X 1.5 fill and drain ports (6 speed transaxles may have different threads, I suspect they are M22, YMMV). The cooler and associated plumbing will add approximately 0.43 quarts of fluid to the 5 speed transaxle fill of 2.4 quarts for a total fill with the coolers of about 2.83 quarts. The oil cooler is mounted on right rear edge of the sheet metal plate under the transaxle ( ahead of the muffler ). The top of the cooler is braced by a strut which picks up the aft motor mount bolts. The oil pump bracket is attached to the right hand diagonal suspension brace with 1/4-20 hardware. The other end of Hose #4 is attached to the trans axle fill port via banjo fittings show here: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/hose_1_and_banjo_fitting.jpg[/img] The installation was made easier by a previously drilled 1 3/4" hole under the trans axle drain plate. With this hole in place the chassis reinforcement plate doesn't need to be removed to get to the drain plug. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/drain_plug_access_hole.jpg[/img] Here is a shot of the banjo fitting installed with Hose #1 that runs to the filter [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/drain_plug_banjo.jpg[/img] More shots of the routing of Hose #1 under the trans axle: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/hosr_no_1_lhs.jpg[/img] A hole was cut in the air baffle LHS to get Hose #1 out from under the trans axle and on to the filter: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/lhs_access_hole.jpg[/img] Electrically the system is controlled by a cockpit mounted switch that supplies ignition switch controlled, fused +12V to the pump and 180 Degree F thermostatic switch on the oil cooler. The oil pump runs continuosly ( as long as the cockpit mounted switch is on ) while the fan runs when the transaxle oil temperature exceeds 180 Degrees F. To get a gauge reading the pump has to be running. ( the result of not tapping into the trans axle case ) This system needs to be turned on after the trans axle oil has had a chance to warm up. Filling the transaxle is made a little easier with the Mityvac filler shown here. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/2/0/0/7/6/mityvac_fluid_filler.jpg[/img] Detailed parts lists are given below. I have no affiliation with the suppliers listed. From AN Plumbing: Qty 4 of P/N M22AN8 Setrab adapter AN Thread: -8 Metric Thread: 22mm X 1.5 (converts Setrab oil cooler ports to AN-8) Qty 1 of P/N 113 Setrab oil cooler with M22 X 1.5 ports which you have to buy separately Qty 1 of P/N 23-1002 Setrab mounting bracket set for series 1 coolers Qty 1 of P/N 22-TS180-08 Setrab AN-8 in line 180 degree F thermostatic fan switch Qty 5 of P/N X920508 XRP 90 degree AN-8 male to female swivel ( for cooler ports, transaxle return, oil pump output and gauge port ) From Jeggs: Qty 1 of P/N 555-100323 AN-8 female to female swivel coupler Qty 3 of P/N 555-100622 AN-8 ready made 2' hose assembly with female ends Qty 1 of P/N 555-100623 AN-8 ready made 3' hose assembly with female ends Qty 1 of P/N 710-23870 Moroso inline oil filter with AN-8 male ends Qty 1 of P/N 918-323-057 VDO 300 degree F temperature sensor Qty 1 of P/N 555-15112 Billet Y block with 1/2 NPT female ports (for temperature sensor mounting) Qty 2 of P/N 555-100109 AN-8 male to 1/2 NPT male (for billet Y block) Qty 1 of P/N 555-100404 1/2 NPT pipe plug (closes off third billet Y block port) From B. A. T. Inc: Qty 2 of P/N BJ148M Banjo fitting M14 to AN-8 male (transmission oil pick up and return) Qty 2 of P/N BJBM14L Banjo bolts M14 X 1.5 Qty 2 of P/N 912-24-14 Reducer M24 X 1.5 to M14 X 1.5 (converts transaxle fill and drain ports for use with banjo fittings) actual supplier ATEC P/N 649.873 Qty 10 of P/N CW550 Copper crush washers for banjo fittings Qty 1 of SPAL 4 inch puller fan P/N VA32-A101-62A 12v From Amazon: Magna-guard oil filter magnet for the in line filter From R B Racing: Qty 1 small oil pump P/N 03-1040 (2 GPM 12 VDC) Qty 2 AN-8 male pump fittings P/N 03-1041 From RPW: Qty 1 small black air duct for oil cooler P/N SPA-D107 Qty 1 3" neoprene ducting, 10' length P/N THE-NN300 From home improvement stores or the scrap bin at work 1/8 aluminum angle, aluminum plate to mount fan, stainless 1/4-20 hardware The SPAL fan is also available from JayCorpTechnologies. Qty 1 gallon of Mobilube SHC Delvac 1 75W90 synthetic gear lubricant. I got the last gallon(s) from LN Engineering, they subsequently have dropped the Mobil product. The rough order of accomplishing this project was: - loosening the wheel lug nuts and raising the car on stands so it sits level ( for fill checking later ) - remove the rear wheels for better access to the transaxle area - the trans axle is drained thru the hole I drilled in the sheetmetal plate under the drain plug, clean around the drain plug. Both the drain and fill plugs are loosened with the special 16mm bit required only for the 5 speed trans axle - an oil sample was captured to send off for analysis - remove the fill plug and clean around the area - using sealer on the threads install both reducers M24 X 1.5 to M14 X 1.5 using 27 mm or 1 1/8 socket ( fill and drain ports ) - using a banjo fitting, 90 degree elbow, two copper crush washers and hollow bolt attach the 3 foot return line ( Hose # 4 ) to the fill port routing the AN-8 hose below the trans axle heading outward thru a hole in the trans axle air duct to the output of the pump ( forward fitting on pump ). Do not tighten until the trans axle has been filled with fluid and the level checked further on in this procedure. You can leave this line disconnected so that later with fluid in the trans axle and the pump running you can watch for operation of the pump - using the second banjo fitting previously tightened onto AN-8 hose ( Hose #1 ), two copper crush washers and hollow bolt attach the 2 foot AN-8 hose that is the supply line to the drain port at the bottom of the trans axle. It is a little tight with the sheet metal plate in place but the banjo bolt can be tightened thru the access hole below the drain port. Route the hose aft thru another hole in the rear of the trans axle air duct to the left hand port of the filter. - attach a piece of 3" duct hose to 3+ inch hose clamp to the air duct mounted on the front of the oil cooler ensuring it routes below the axle, allow the hose to protrude into the air flow under the car and tie wrap in place. I applied silicon sealer to keep the hose in place, it fell off with just the clamp - mount the filter to the two lower fan attachment screws using padded clamps , run a two foot outlet hose ( Hose #2 ) ( RHS) from the Y billet attached to the filter thru a 90 degree elbow to the oil cooler port with the thermostat. Tie this hose to non-moving parts using tie wraps - mount the oil pump to the diagonal suspension brace to an aluminum mounting plate pre-drilled with the pump mounting hole foot print. Use lock nuts and 1 1/2" 1/4-20 bolts. - connect another two foot AN-8 hose ( Hose #3 ) between the remaining oil cooler fitting and the pump inlet fitting - mount the oil cooler to the rear side of the sheetmetal plate under the transaxle - attach an aluminum angle brace between the upper part of the cooler to the aft transmission mount bolt - tighten all the AN-8 fittings - fill the 5 speed transaxle with 2.83 quarts of Mobil Delvac synthetic gear oil - wire up the pump, fan and thermostat to a fused, ignition switched +12 VDC source. I used my Accusump control panel. - run the oil temp sensor wire, return into the cockpit gauge/control panel area - apply power and check for leaks - remove Hose #4 at the trans axle fill port - using the modified dipstick measure the transaxle fluid level to be 16.7 mm below the hole in the transaxle fill port ( with the reducer installed ) - tie wrap the hoses so they remain clear of the muffler brackets, sway bar, etc This same approach can be used to mount an engine oil cooler fan pack on the left hand side of the trans axle. Stayed tuned for that saga. I got a new IR thermometer and took some data today. The gauge is working but the temperature reported is shockingly low. On the way to work, US-1 55mph in the dark: Air temp reported by car = 73F temp at Y billet = 125F On the way home from work, I-95 80MPH: Air temp reported by car = 91F temp at Y billet = 137F temp at trans axle oil filter = 147F temp at trans axle case LHS = 155F I got a new IR thermometer and took some data today. The gauge is working but the temperature reported is shockingly low. On the way to work, US-1 55mph in the dark: Air temp reported by car = 73F temp at Y billet = 125F On the way home from work, I-95 80MPH: Air temp reported by car = 91F temp at Y billet = 137F temp at trans axle oil filter = 147F temp at trans axle case LHS = 155F Baseline reading on the case without the pump running: On the way to work, I-95 60 MPH: Air temp reported by the car = 80F temp at trans axle case LHS = 153F On the way home from work, I-95 80MPH: Air temp reported by car = 91F temp at trans axle case LHS= 170F I'll post more data as available, looking for a 95+ F day. BTW Harbor Freight has the IR thermometer on sale for the month of August $29.95 with coupon. My previous unit was from Sears, went dead and case became gooey. After living with this set up for several months I reached the conclusion that it is not really necessary unless the car is dedicated to the track. Monitoring the temperatures and operation of the cooler showed oil temperatures not exceeding 140 degrees F even when outside air was 90 degrees F. The fan never came on ( 180 Thermostatic switch ). I did suffer through a series of small leaks, mostly on the pump output hose. For simplicity & reliability I've removed the cooler from the car, installing a magnetic drain plug on my way out. I plan on using the excess air hose to bring some extra air to the rear brakes.

(iPhone, Android)

Sun, 12 Aug 2012 23:14:07 -0500

by: aw1

Description: Like many of us, I like to listen to music, news, see maps, get directions, play with car specific apps such as dynolicious, and in general have access to many of the immensely useful things modern smartphones put into our pockets. However, it seems that all standard, off-the-shelf phone mounts seem to come with trade-offs (too wiggly; unsightly; intruding at the wrong places, too far from the line of sight, etc). So I�ve thought long and hard about all available options I could find. On occasion I�ve spent multiple evenings scouring the web for a solution that met my requirements (listed in the full length article). But none pleased me � until now. After multiple attempts, I�ve come up with a solution that I really like � and I�ve been driving with it for months now. It�s everything I hoped it would be, and so I figured it�s a solution worth writing up for those who have similar needs and who, like me, are searching for a good solution. The approach I�ve chosen is a bit more work than most alternatives such as simple windshield suction cups, but I think it�s been worth it! The attached pics show what it looks like when it's all finished! The PDF contains the whole installation process. Hope it helps someone out there! If it does, let me know! -AW1 Full article (PDF): http://www.planet-9.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=358

Adjustable Drop Links

Tue, 31 Jul 2012 12:07:14 -0500

by: K-Man S

Description: Almost two years ago I had the upgraded TPC suspension installed for our testing article at VIR. That suspension included TPC's adjustable drop links. One of the known issues about the TPC links is that they can be noisy. Mine were and despite pumping gobs of grease into the dust boots (which did quiet them some) I still had annoying clanks from the front suspension at times. I had almost grown used to it when a passenger in my car recently remarked "what's broken?". I must admit that during the winter I bought a set of Anze Suspension adjustable drop links that have sealed ends and intended to put them on my car but with sub zero temps in the garage I never got around to it. So now, with the temps in the triple digits I thought what the heck, let's get under the car and sweat and see if these new drop links make any difference. Here is a picture of the Anze drop links, they come sealed in a bag, disassembled, and with basic instructions. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5850.jpg[/img] I called Angelo at Anze and asked him if it made any difference whether or not I left the car on the lift or if I used my center jack to lift the front end off the front of the lift at let the wheels hang (and removed the tires for easier access to the suspension). He said it didn't really matter for the install but that for setting the drop links that the car should be on the ground, in fact if you want to simulate the car with a driver add your weight to the drivers seat. So I decided to simply drive the car up on the lift, raise the lift up, but leave the wheels and tires on the car and access everything from underneath. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5848.jpg[/img] The first order of business was to get the old TPC drop links off. To do this required a 17mm socket and wrench to loosen the bottom end of the drop link first and remove it from the sway bar. If installed properly there should be no tension on the drop link when the car is at rest and the bolt should slide out. In the next picture you can see the lower end of the drop link and the sway bar end, the rusty nut was fortunately mostly surface rust. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5853.jpg[/img] In the following picture I have now removed the nut and pulled the bolt back through the sway bar. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5855.jpg[/img] The next part of the removal operation is to remove the upper bolt that not only holds the drop link in place but also tightens the suspension collar around the strut tower. If you have the car up in the air with the suspension dangling then the strut tower will want to fall downward when you remove this bolt and loosen the collar by doing so. With the car parked flat you don't have that concern. So while space might be a little tighter, you aren't fighting suspension parts. I should note that TPC uses a large (Torx-T55 / hex equivalent) headed bolt that is a bit of a pain to get on with the proper tools and get loose but I managed to do it. Conversely the Anze pieces are simpler in that there is a collar that you'll hold with one wrench and then simply use a socket and ratchet on the other end to tighten. After removing the TPC units I placed one side by side with the new Anze unit shown here: [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5856.jpg[/img] You might notice the main bolt had more shoulder and less threads on the Anze unit, one of my TPC units looks like the threads were a little mashed so having more shoulder may be a good thing. At this point we simply need to reverse the process with a few minor changes. In the following picture I have attached the upper bolt and drop link head to the suspension tower. I found it best to check what size wrenches I needed for the collar and for the nut because they are different on each end and different from the combo needed to install the lower end of the drop link. I used both metric and US standard tools and chose what I believed to be the "best fit" for each bolt I was working with in the confined space I was working in. You definitely need 17mm, 3/4, 11/16 and 14mm. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5862.jpg[/img] The next step was that I threaded the arm into the top drop link head all the way. Then I spun the bottom drop link head on all the way. This way I had the maximum number of threads in each head. Of course at this point the overall length was too short to get the lower end to go through the hole in the sway bar. You do NOT want to just spin the lower head downward until it fits as that would mean you'd have fewer threads in the bottom. What you want to do is spin the threaded arm out of the upper head one or two turns as well as spin the lower head in the off direction from the arm one or two turns and then check to see if it fits. Continue to do this until the bolt in the lower head slides through the hole in the sway bar with no resistance. You may need to tweak up or down a little as you fish the bolt through the sway bar. By doing this in an even fashion you should end up with the maximum amount of bolt threads in both the upper and lower drop link heads. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5868.jpg[/img] Once you have the bolt in the lower head through the sway bar you can tighten the washer and nut on the other side to secure the lower drop link head to the sway bar. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5860.jpg[/img] Now if you spin the center threaded rod one direction or the other you should feel it getting tighter. One direction will be pushing the two drop link heads apart, the other pulling them together. I went in the direction of pushing them apart, but it really wasn't more than say a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn of the rod until there was resistance. [img]http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/files/3/img_5866.jpg[/img] Now it is time to tighten the lock nuts (in the above picture they are towards the center). You can spin them by hand until they reach their respective upper and lower heads and then use a 14mm wrench to tighten them snugly. It helps if you use a wrench or pliers to hold the center rod at the point where it has a flat section for doing exactly that. Once the two jam nuts are tight you are done other than checking torque values provided by Anze in their instructions. I usually re-check torque after a few days of driving just to make sure nothing is working loose. At this point I cleaned up my tools, lowered my lift and drove the car off. I took the car for a spin over roads that I normally drive, including some rather bumpy ones and the difference was like night and day. No more clunks, no more clanks, just a quiet suspension. I should have done this a LONG time ago, but am certainly glad that I finally got around to doing it! I highly recommend these drop links to anyone who is thinking of changing out their sway bar(s). Anze carries a full line of suspension products so be sure and contact them for any of your needs. In all I would say this process was a 3 out of 10 on the difficulty scale, certainly much easier if you have a lift, but the alternative is to jack up the front end of your car and put it on jack stands while you work on the suspension. Under no circumstances should you jack up only 1 side of the car as that puts force on the sway bar and you won't be able to get the drop links apart. Enjoy and Stay Tuned!