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Brake Fluid and Pad Change Tips
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Date product posted
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0
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17905
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Mon May 7, 2007
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Description:
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This article is primarily for those who’ve not done their own brake work before, and is thus intended to supplement the great articles already posted on the Cayman Club by K-Man S and FT regarding changing brake fluids and pads. Accordingly, I will focus on just a couple of additional details that have not specifically discussed.
Motive Power Bleeder
This product makes for a very fast and easy fluid change without requiring the help of another person. Shown here is the PowerBleeder already attached to the brake reservoir. I’ve already removed most of the existing brake fluid using a turkey baster (see K-man’s article), and then filled the reservoir with SuperBlue. Empty the rest of the new brake fluid into the PowerBleeder and make sure the reservoir cap and bottle cap are screwed on very tightly or you will not get the necessary seal.
DIY Brake fluid catcher
To capture the drained brake fluid I made this simple catcher.
Use ¼ inner diameter tubing (less than a $1 at ACE Hardware), and a empty plastic ice tea or similar beverage bottle with screwtop. Drill a 7/16” hole and push the tubing through.
Here’s another shot showing the new SuperBlue fluid having flushed through the line. When removing the tubing from the brake fitting, I used a shop towel to immediately catch the dripping. With the PowerBleeder it took about 20 minutes to change the fluids and bleed the system. Highly recommended.
Brake Pad Change Tips
After a lengthy discussion with the folks at Livermore Performance, and review of K-Man S and FT’s posting and articles, I decided to go with Porterfield R-4S
(see http://www.livermoreperformance.com/porterfield_1.html for details).
This decision was based on needing a pad that could do double duty as a high performance street pad and a better-than-stock track pad and autocross pad.
Comparison of Stock Cayman Pads (top) vs Porterfield R4S (bottom)
Comparison of Pad thickness: Stock Cayman Pads (left) vs Porterfield R4S (right)
The wear on the stock pads is after 6600 miles, 1 track day and 4 autocrosses. That explains all the brake dust!
Removing the Brake Sensors
This photo shows a closeup of the top of the caliper and pads.
There are two brake sensors as shown by the blue arrows.
To remove the sensors, use needle nose pliers and grip the backside of the sensor as shown by the yellow horsehows below. Pull straight up; they come out pretty easily.
Note as well the cotter pin indicated by the green arrow. Here, the cotter pin is facing away from the top of the brake.
To remove the pin, you can rotate the tensioner pin with a wrench so that loop is facing upwards. Here, I’ve rotated tensioner pin so that the cotter pin is easily accessible, and can be readily removed with needle nose pliers.
Removing the tensioner pin
If you don't have a punch handy, a 1/4" allen key with a long shaft works nicely. The "stubby hammer" from Pepboys was just the ticket for a close in solid whack.
Removing the Pads
I followed FT’s advice and used a towel to protect the caliper, and then levering the pad out far enough to get a wrench on it an pull it out easily.
Inserting the New Pad
You can push in the backpacking plate (see arrow) with a screwdriver so that there is plenty of clearance for the new pad. First lever in one side of the backing plate, as shown, and insert the pad. Then lever in the other side.
The pad pushes right in, without any need to hammer it in.
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Keywords:
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Porterfield R-4S, ATE Superblue, Motive Powerbleeder |
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Sponsor Website: (if applicable):
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http://www.rennstore.com/ (For Pagid Brake Pads)
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Porsche Activist
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Posts: 316
Registered: September 2006
Location: CA
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