Definetly bring this up with the adjuster at Travelers and to your Agent.
Rarely do I post negative reviews, but I feel it's appropriate to hopefully prevent someone from going through what I'm going through:
A large rock bounced off the road, onto my hood and windshield, requiring replacement of the windshield, and repair/repaint of the hood.
I have Travelers Insurance, and was referred to their office which is part of Caliber Collision off of Cedar Springs near Love Field airport. The process went smooth, and although I do not have rental coverage, Caliber provides a rental car for use free of charge. This is a nice perk and part of the reason I decided to have the work performed at Caliber.
A few days later the work was complete. I noticed the windshield molding (OEM replacement) wasn't lined up as perfect as before, but I figured it would still be fine. The body shop manager mentioned the hood was painted on the car. I could see a little difference at the edges (seen through the driver's seat), but it looked OK, and I assumed it was done properly. I drove it to my work, and then inspected closer (should have done at the shop). The back corner of the hood was bare metal. There were uneven spot and scratches on the edge easily felt by running my finger along the edge of the hood.
I brought the car back right away, and also noticed wind noise entering the cabin. I took the shop manager for a ride, and I pretty much had to convince him the noise was not from the AC, not from my side mirrors. They took the hood off the car this time, installed a new windshield, and I picked up the car a couple days later. The windshield looked perfect, as did the hood. He mentioned not to wax the car for 30 days. This was March 23.
I didn't say this to the manager, but I'd think the majority of higher-end vehicle owners tend to be a bit more picky than lower-end vehicles. Although I would not repair any vehicle different, I'd make sure the quality check was very detailed, maybe even moreso on a higher-end vehicle.
Today I decided to spend some time washing the car, and waxing everything but the hood. I noticed what I thought was pine pitch on the roof and rear hatch, and tried to figure out where it came from. When I dried the car, it was obvious. There was black paint overspray on the roof, rear window, rear hatch, rear wing, and the ENTIRE right side of the car after the mirror. It's to the point where if you looked at your reflection, you'd see dots all over it. I waited until the shop opened and spoke with someone else who mentioned they might not have someone in the shop to buff the areas today, and that the shop manager would be back in Monday. I'm bringing the car back Monday.
This post is to bring attention to a shop who will now have my vehicle for the third time for what should have been a painless repair with very little risk to the shop and me. Because they cut corners and didn't bother to cover the entire vehicle, or even better paint the hood off the car, I'm now in this mess.
A question I have for you guys is what should they do to bring my car back to where it should be? Can they buff without damaging or reducing the life of the original paint? Should they buff the left side as well? I will certainly inspect the ENTIRE car in bright light when it's done, but how do you guys recommend I proceed?
Very unhappy to be dealing with this.
Definetly bring this up with the adjuster at Travelers and to your Agent.
I had a dealer repaint my quarter panel after they dinged it. When I got it back I noticed overspray on my trunk. I just took some detailing clay and it took it right off. There really isn't an excuse for performing a half *** job.
They should be able to get it right. It's just a PIA for you and definately report it to the Insurance Co.
hopefully it will be easy to repair, but they need to go over the entire roof, rear hatch, rear wing, and pretty much all of the right side, including the intake/vent....
...I also just tried claying, with no change. The overspray has definately bonded with the original.
Last edited by Owen Birch; 04-09-2011 at 12:39 PM.
so can anyone tell me what "Buffing" does to remove the excess paint? It's really all over the place, including on the doorknob.
If they buff one side, should they also do the other side to make the appearance the same? I'm clueless regarding this kind of stuff, appreciate the insight.
They're going to try to buff the overspray off. Basically they will use some sort of compound with a fine grit in it to sand that excess paint off your car. I'm oversimplifying it, but that is what it boils down to. If done correctly, it shouldn't be a big deal. Unfortunately, they have already proved they're not big on attention to detail. If they aren't careful while they're buffing, they could burn through your clear coat and cause a whole other set of problems. Like you said, trying to fix half-effort work just gets more and more difficult. I'd be tentative to let them continue.
I have heard/read that the claybar technique was originally developed to remove overspary...if you have clay bar, give it a try before returning the bodyshop.
I tried a clay bar, with no success. It really feels like it's a part of the paint job, almost like the black paint was mixed with clearcoat. What a mess...
Wonder how they'll buff the door handle and wing...
Owen; there are various types of clay. Some are more agressive than others.
All clay needs to be used with a lube of some type. To ramp up the cleaning ability, use a continuous stream of water from the hose as the "lube". The plain water makes the clay grab more.
Compounding involves using a series of cleaners/compounds/bonnets/pads from the most agressive (wet sanding or 'rocks in a can' w/ wool pad on a rotary buffer) to the finest (very fine jeweling polish and soft foam pad with a orbital buffer). You cut the paint and progessively make the 'cut's' smaller and smaller until you bring back the gloss.
My guess is, do to the ham-handedness of this shop, they will take the 'rocks' and wool bonnet with a rotary method and proceed to grind off their mistake, leaving you with ground in buffer trails.
This will unfortunately, take some of your clear coat with it and may leave you with some marginal clear thickness.
There are smaller polishing tools available for areas like the door handles and wing, but my guess is that they will have 'never heard' of anything like that.
I know it's their bad, but you should really think twice about letting them do what is almost certain another slip-shod job. If someone doesn't have the professionalism to do it right the first time-don't give them a second chance. It's not you being fussy!!
Take it to a detailer who you can verify does high-end cars and paint "corrections". Note this is most likely not someone in the back of a car wash that advertises "Simonize $29.95", or somebody's hunch back brother who like to 'wax cars'. If the guy of your choice dosen't know what a "full correction" is, you haven't found the right guy yet.
If you re-try the clay and still have a no-go. PM me and I can give you an idea of the type of compound you can try by hand to see how easy it's gong to be to remove.
I've had to have body work done on my Cayman twice in the past 2 years of ownership - it's almost like it's a magnet for idiots to hit it in the front.
Needless to say, I've had good luck at Stuarts in N Dallas. They only seem to do high end cars. The last time I had work done (new hood, bumper, & RF fender) I spent about 30 minutes going over the car after it was done to make sure it was right. The advisor was very eagar to make sure everything was to my satisfaction.
Probably doesn't help you much now but for the future..
Also, PM me if you want to know the number for my detail guy that also does paint corrections - he may be able to get the overspray off..
1989 Saab 900T
1990 Saab 900TC
Thanks guys for the advice.
I brought it back yesterday afternoon and talked with the insurance rep and the shop manager. I made sure the expectation was set that when the car's complete, we're going to view the car inside under the lights, and since it's the third time, I will be that "Porsche Douche" anal guy inspecting every inch of the car, and expect to only see normal wear and tear that existed before I brought my car there. I also mentioned I'd like documentation that they needed to detail the entire car due to the overspray incase down the road I see paint issues. The shop manager (who's owned 3 P-Cars) said it wasn't overspray, but was paint, and it did appear to be the exact same paint.
They both knew I was very frustrated, the insurance rep was very apologetic, and the shop manager listened more than being defensive (guy could learn a little more about customer service). Hopefully this will encourage additional quality control going forward.
Right when the car's done, I'll go view it (not returning the free rental until I'm certain it's fine). They did have a few other higher-end cars there. We'll see. Hoping this works out...
I received the car back last night. It looks great, even better than it should have the first time, since they buffed the entire car. They were apologetic and the car now looks quite stunning. I still can't recommend them, but they did finally get it right, on the third try...
Glad you got this fixed. I know I would be very frustrated if it happened to me.
2006 Porsche Cayman S, Lapis Blue, Tiptronics, Bose, 997TT-style wheels, Sprint Booster, HIP clear engine cover, Schild trunk liner, Milltek catback exhaust, CF aerodynamics, BumperPlugs painted interior trims.
2011 Audi S4 - Prem+, Brilliant Red, DSG, Sport Diff, B&O, Nav, Nappa leather, Eurocode Alu Kreuz, Stvbek CF Aero Front Lip, DEVAL CF Rear Valence.