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Thread: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

  1. #281
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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    I dropped the car off to the indy shop today. Before leaving, I checked the coolant level for the first time in six weeks. Previously, I would loose a few ounces a week. Surprisingly, the bobber was up to max and I haven't smelled coolant in a while. Perhaps the air is finally all out.

    Besides the list of work above, I added the installation of the 'S' rear brake air cooling ducts (Base models have no ducts). So the car will be fully up to 'S' specs (actually better with GT3 MC and slotted discs). I supplied six new plug coils with instructions to replace any cracked or coil packs with corroded electrical contacts since the car was under water at one time.

    I ordered sandpaper and DupliColor adhesion promoter and Clear Coat acrylic lacquer for an attempted repair of the crazing on the left headlight.

    V6
    Last edited by Voyager6; 05-18-2019 at 10:16 AM.

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  3. #282
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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Voyager6 View Post
    I dropped the car off to the indy shop today. Before leaving, I checked the coolant level for the first time in six weeks. Previously, I would loose a few ounces a week. Surprisingly, the bobber was up to max and I haven't smelled coolant in a while. Perhaps the air is out.

    Besides the list of work above, I added the installation of the 'S' rear brake air cooling ducts (Base models have no ducts). So the car will be fully up to 'S' specs (actually better with GT3 MC and slotted discs).

    I ordered sandpaper and DupliColor adhesion promoter and Clear Coat acrylic lacquer for an attempted repair of the crazing on the left headlight.

    V6
    I like the idea of installing black headlight surrounds to mask the crazing, if the repair doesn't work to your satisfaction.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Best regards,
    Croc'ed
    Metro NY PCA Deputy Chief DE Instructor

  4. #283
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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Croc'ed View Post
    I like the idea of installing black headlight surrounds to mask the crazing, if the repair doesn't work to your satisfaction.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    I don't expect the edge near the trunk to cleanup. It appears to be fractured deep into the plastic in that area. both the surround wrap and the clear coat will be required. Inspection of the worst area shows that the surround trim may cover all but one fracture, which would stick out 1/4 inch. I am hoping the clear coat fills that in.

    My big question is what color surround wrap to order... Gloss black or Matte Black (versus black paint). I will wait until I see how the clear coat looks before ordering the trim.

    After I got back from Alaska, I ordered two of the plastic littronics brackets that attaches the vertical headlight aiming sensor arm to the LCA. The car's headlights were always too low and when I changed the brakes, I found the bracket had broken off the LCA and was jammed in the up position, which lowered the headlights all the way down. I zip tied the bracket to the LCA and now the headlights are too high. The adjustment is easy, but I will wait until the parts come in before I do the adjustment. The factory service manual says to use a 6 inch long 5mm allen wrench with a ball end. You adjust when the ignition and lights are on. Adjust. Turn off lights, then ignition, then back on to verify the settings took. There are two holes inside the frunk, one behind the tool kit and the other behind the tire repair kit. There are actually three holes on each side - two with blue plug/covers and a black one. The hole with the upper blue cover is the vertical adjustment hole. The lower blue cover hole is the horizontal adjustment and, of course, the lower black cover is for the headlight removal tool. Parts are supposed to be in Tuesday, but the car will still be in the shop, likely all week.

    V6
    Last edited by Voyager6; 05-18-2019 at 02:34 PM.

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  6. #284
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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Voyager6 View Post
    I dropped the car off to the indy shop today. Before leaving, I checked the coolant level for the first time in six weeks. Previously, I would loose a few ounces a week. Surprisingly, the bobber was up to max and I haven't smelled coolant in a while. Perhaps the air is finally all out.

    Besides the list of work above, I added the installation of the 'S' rear brake air cooling ducts (Base models have no ducts). So the car will be fully up to 'S' specs (actually better with GT3 MC and slotted discs). I supplied six new plug coils with instructions to replace any cracked or coil packs with corroded electrical contacts since the car was under water at one time.

    I ordered sandpaper and DupliColor adhesion promoter and Clear Coat acrylic lacquer for an attempted repair of the crazing on the left headlight.

    V6
    This will be interesting, looking forward to the results and before and after pictures!
    2016 BGTS since Sept 8th, 2015! Previous rides:
    2013 Boxster 981-S
    2006 Boxster Base
    2003 Boxster Base "First convertible"
    1990 RX-7 "Rotary Rocket"/ 1988 Z51 Corvette/ 1975 280Z

  7. #285
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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    I found this video to restore headlights via Rennlist, but it looks good.



    V6

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Voyager6 View Post

    I ordered sandpaper and DupliColor adhesion promoter and Clear Coat acrylic lacquer for an attempted repair of the crazing on the left headlight.

    V6
    V6,

    I bought my new to me 2014 two years ago with 37,000 miles on it and it had about fifty small paint chips on the hood and chips on the windshield and headlights. I got the dealer to replace the windshield and with a price reduction I decided I could fix the paint chips in the hood. I got the Porsche touch up paint, a Rust-Oleum detail sander kit (#40-002) with a foam sanding block with precut Velcro backed sand paper in 400, 1000 and 1500 grit.

    I became proficient with the paint chip repairs with wet sanding with the 1500 sand paper then using my 6” random orbital buffer with Meguiar’s Scratch X2.0 compound. This gave me the idea to repair the headlights that had stone chips in addition to the coating that was peeling off in small areas. The factory applied coating appears to be a “hard coat” that I had little success wet sanding and out of frustration I even tried dry sanding with the 1000 and even the 400 paper. I even tried to buff it off. The best I could do was feather in the edges where it was pealing.

    I then purchased precut Lamin-X film to cover up the partially removed and blended in factory coating. This was my first attempt at installing film and in hind sight I should have ordered 12”x 24” sheets instead of the precut kit. The precut film has to go on with perfect placement because when I tried to pull it back to reposition it, even wet, it pulled off some of the factory coating. I was more careful on the second headlight and it turned out well. The film covered over the repairs and I was pleased with the second headlight.

    The first headlight turned out “fair” but after seeing the small areas that had the loose coating areas I decided to order one 12”x24”non precut film to redo the first light. This time after removing the Laminate-X film I spent more time trying to sand off the factory sprayed on film and still could not sand it off. I then took some of the Lamin-X film that I removed and pressed it back on to small areas and pulled it off quickly like removing a band aid. I was still not able to get it all off, but I re-sanded and re-buffed and got it in good enough shape to install the new Lamin-X film. I am now pleased with the way both headlights turned out and they are now protected from future chips. Lamin-X also sell an applied liquid that protects the film from uv. I think I saw that the factory clear coating was a hard coat and also to block the uv to protect the plastic below.

    I am not saying the method I used is the best repair and would have saved a lot of work if I would have sanded and buffed and prepped the lights and taken them to a professional film installer but I have less than $100 in the repair.

    From your pictures it looks like your existing coating is a lot more loose than mine was and you will have better results sanding off the film. If not you you may try pulling it off with an adhesive film or maybe duct tape. Good luck with your repair and keep me informed on how it goes.

    Jim
    2014 Cayman S : Agate Grey, PDK, PASM, SportDesign wheel, Bi-Xenon W/PDLS, ParkAssist F/R, 18-way Sport Seats /heated/vented, crests on HR, Premium Package, Bose W/Navi.
    Mods (all DIY): Cobb tuning w/PDK flash, aFe headers, aFe dry filters, FF1 engine mounts, DIY grilles front&sides, clear corners, Dynaudio tweeters, extended height console, PSE w/Soul-X, CSF alum center radiator, Maxspeed B/U camera.

  9. #287
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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Got the car back today. Drives much straighter. Alignment changed the way the tires heat up. Now rears heat first, then left front. Right front stays 2 psi lower then the rest. Before alignment, Left rear ran 2 to 3 psi higher and the rest were equal. Maybe one MPG more on a 73 mile highway trip.

    They detailed the inside and outside of the car and fixed a few scratches with touchup paint that I provided. The car had the factory outdoor car cover blown off (except for the mirror pockets) in a 60 MPH windstorm, and the cover must have flapped hard and put scratches on the rear fenders and trunk. The shop's detailers did a miracle with the touchup paint as the scratches are now invisible.

    I changed from Moble 1 fs euro formula to Driven DT40 (I had a case in the garage, DI40 will be future oil) and noticed in non-Sport mode that the oil temperature, once steady state, was 4F lower, 207F vs 211F for Mobile 1. The Mobile 1 only had 4500 miles on it, so it should not have been worn out. Ambient was warmer with the DT40, so outside temperature was not a factor.

    Brakes are better, but still borderline so-so. The shop said they had to do an ABS flush/bleed to get the pedal better, but had issues with the front bleed.

    I also had the plugs changed and the shop put the new coil packs in (just in case). Car seemed peppier than before.

    If weather permits, I am going to work on the headlight crazing this weekend.

    V6
    Last edited by Voyager6; 05-24-2019 at 07:57 AM.

  10. #288
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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Today, I hopefully repaired the litronic bracket on the driver's side lower control arm. I purchased two new brackets. They have a claw that goes through the LCA and a push pin forces the claw wider, securing the bracket to the LCA. Well, the push pin is a very tight interference fit with the hole in the bracket. I had the first new bracket in place and had just tapped the push pin and it broke off! I tested with the second bracket and it broke! Since the claws were good, I took a proper diameter machine screw and drove it through the bracket and it tightened the claw to the LCA like a champ.

    My worry is that the old bracket, which I had zip tied to the LCA had come loose, making me feel there is something causing stress on the bracket.

    While I was in the area, I decided to start adding the GT4 side air scoops and Zunsport side grills. I got as far as removing the rocker panels and will drill them and add the scoops and grills tonight and put them back on the Boxster tomorrow (it is supposed to be nice early).

    I found some Scotch double sided transparent tape that will make transferring the drill hole locations from the scoop to the rocker panel easier and more accurate than the painter's tape method I described in my rocker panel/air scoop article posted here.

    V6
    Last edited by Voyager6; 06-03-2019 at 02:57 PM.

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Voyager6 View Post
    noticed in non-Sport mode that the oil temperature, once steady state, was 4F lower, 207F vs 211F for Mobile 1
    I was on a long drive this weekend and played with Sport/non-Sport to see what the effect was on oil temps. I'm in a Boxster S, running M1 0W40FS, 3rd radiator, Cobb Stage 1 Tune. No other mods. It was 92degF ambient. I was driving on the freeway constant at about 90mph (I-45 between Dallas and Houston has a speed limit of 75, and you get passed if you're not doing at least 95).

    Steady state in non-Sport, 230F constant. In Sport, it seemed to hover mostly around 207F, but would range from 203F to 211F. I'm not exactly sure why the range. I was in undisturbed airflow, flat terrain, constant engine speed, 7th gear. Maybe due to A/C drag?

    On a side note, PCM stated gas mileage was 31.7mpg avg, actual measured was 26.6mpg (filled up before and after the trip). Real mpg is always lower than PCM by about 15%.
    2014 Boxster S - Racing Yellow, Sport Chrono, PASM, PTV, PDK, 3rd radiator, Cobb Stage 1 tune (Pagid RSL29's & Nitto NT-01's on the track)

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by ledbette View Post
    I was on a long drive this weekend and played with Sport/non-Sport to see what the effect was on oil temps. I'm in a Boxster S, running M1 0W40FS, 3rd radiator, Cobb Stage 1 Tune. No other mods. It was 92degF ambient. I was driving on the freeway constant at about 90mph (I-45 between Dallas and Houston has a speed limit of 75, and you get passed if you're not doing at least 95).

    Steady state in non-Sport, 230F constant. In Sport, it seemed to hover mostly around 207F, but would range from 203F to 211F. I'm not exactly sure why the range. I was in undisturbed airflow, flat terrain, constant engine speed, 7th gear. Maybe due to A/C drag?

    On a side note, PCM stated gas mileage was 31.7mpg avg, actual measured was 26.6mpg (filled up before and after the trip). Real mpg is always lower than PCM by about 15%.
    I have seen the effect you described as well. Sport/Sport+, the adjustable thermostat tries to regulate water at 90C. In economy mode, it is 105C. Heat Exchangers can transfer heat both ways. When the oil is hotter, the heat goes into the water. When the oil is cooler than the water, the water heats the oil. Given there are several heat sources, like the oil to water heat exchanger and the one or two transmission heat exchangers and even the radiator fans and engine bay cooling fans (indirectly) can alter the water temperature and thus affect oil temperatures. A/C and alternator being on provide more load on the engine and the advanced timing when they are on may generate more heat.

    It is a complex system.

    V6
    Last edited by Voyager6; 06-04-2019 at 09:46 AM.

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    The side air scoops are genuine GT4 parts, not aftermarket. Note I bought the full kit in early 2016 before the prices doubled as I was always planning on a second 981. Anyway, the kit came with the vent rings with studs that help align the scoops to the rocker panel. Now that the Boxster is 5 years old, the plastic rocker panel is getting inflexible and it took a long time last night to get the old vent rings out and the new ones installed without breaking anything. I got the scoops taped with the drill transfer marks, but did not drill the holes as it got too late. I still should get done today if all goes well.

    [EDIT] Got the scoops on the rocker panels, but will have to wait to the next dry day to install them on the car. I spent 10 hours today trying to transfer the screw hole marks from the scoops to the rocker panels. Double backed tape was a fail. Tried two other methods-- failed. In desperation I went back to the wide frog tape that I used in my article. First rocker panel went well. Second, not so. Three of the holes were off a whole screw diameter. I augered two of the holes until they aligned. The last one was too far off.

    I put tape over the raised pads with holes, fit the scoop to the rocker panels and marked the position of the current hole on the tape and could judge how far off I was. I decided to do something drastic with the sixth screw. The raised pad on the rocker panel was over the, now large hole. I got a couple of drill bits and just drilled a new hole in the pad on the scoop. Last screw was done and none of the work is visible from inside or outside.

    It is supposed to rain the next two days and so it will likely be Friday before I can get the panels on the car. While I had the opportunity, I installed the Zunsport screen for the air vents.[/EDIT]


    V6
    Last edited by Voyager6; 06-04-2019 at 07:53 PM.

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    OK, it was dry mid-day so I was able to install the rocker panels. Here are the photos of the finished project:

    Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread-installed_drivers_side-jpg

    Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread-installed_pass_side-jpg

    Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread-installedds34-jpg

    V6
    Last edited by Voyager6; 06-05-2019 at 06:24 PM.

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Some in-progress photos:

    This is a puck that fits the hole at the lift point. It is hard plastic and it did not dent from the weight of the car. Bought from a guy on Rennlist.
    Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread-puck2-jpg

    Puck on jack. It makes centering the pad on jack much easier. Note the large lower side rocker retaining buttons next to jack point. Turn buttons 90 degrees and they drop out. When Installing, they lock in the position shown. The screw that holds the fender liner to the rocker panel has been removed.
    Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread-puck_lift-jpg


    Car with rocker removed. Note I washed the area revealed after taking this photo to remove any crud the original flood may have left. not as much as I expected.
    Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread-driver_side_rocker_remved-jpg

    Door frame with sill removed and four black pins removed
    Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread-door_rocker_removed-jpg

    Back of rocker panel after scoop was installed. This is the side with the mis-aligned holes. Note Zunsport grills installed while access was easier. i bent the retaining pins inwards to avoid scratching the ring and, from the back side, bent the pins back and hooked them into place.
    Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread-backside-rocker-jpg


    Same panel, other side.
    Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread-scoop_on_rocker_uninstalled-jpg

    V6
    Last edited by Voyager6; 06-05-2019 at 06:22 PM.

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    One last point/tip. There is a black tape that acts like a gasket between the rocker panel and the scoop. Getting it in place without sticking in the wrong place is difficult due to the two alignment studs on the GT4 vent ring. I cleaned both the scoop mounting surface and the rocker panel with paint prep. After drying, I applied tape to the scoop and removed the backing on the tape that faces the rocker panel. To my surprise, a light coating of paint prep on the surface of the rocker panel reduced the tape's affinity to stick and allowed me to slide the scoop onto the alignment studs easily. When the paint prep dried, the tape stuck.

    V6

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    T'was a smart move to install the Zunsport grilles while you had access to the back sides of the rocker panels.
    Looking good! Thanks for sharing your restoration/modification adventures with us.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Best regards,
    Croc'ed
    Metro NY PCA Deputy Chief DE Instructor

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Croc'ed View Post
    T'was a smart move to install the Zunsport grilles while you had access to the back sides of the rocker panels.
    Looking good! Thanks for sharing your restoration/modification adventures with us.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    I bought the Zunsport grills a year ago. I have the front radiator grills, too, awaiting the center radiator upgrade. Of course I bought the scoops in 2016, before the Boxster was a gleam in my eye, but i knew then a second 981 was in the future. However, I am debating the installation of the center radiator on my 2.7L engine as I am afraid it will take too long to reach operating temperature.

    If I do the radiator, the exhaust upgrade (Sport Headers and twin tail pipes and wrapping the stock exhaust) will be the final mods to the car.

    V6

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Voyager6 View Post
    I bought the Zunsport grills a year ago. I have the front radiator grills, too, awaiting the center radiator upgrade. Of course I bought the scoops in 2016, before the Boxster was a gleam in my eye, but i knew then a second 981 was in the future. However, I am debating the installation of the center radiator on my 2.7L engine as I am afraid it will take too long to reach operating temperature.

    If I do the radiator, the exhaust upgrade (Sport Headers and twin tail pipes and wrapping the stock exhaust) will be the final mods to the car.

    V6
    Go ahead and install the third radiator kit. It won't take any longer for the engine to get to operating temperature; the thermostat performs that function. The extra radiator simply increases cooling capacity, which is especially important during hot summer months when driving aggressively. I have installed a third radiator kit on my 987.1 Cayman 2.7, and also on my current 987.1 Boxster S LE, so I speak from experience.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Best regards,
    Croc'ed
    Metro NY PCA Deputy Chief DE Instructor

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    One more little win today. I fixed the convertible top!

    To recap history, this flood car was caught in the Houston hurricane with its top down. It was sold and reauctioned in Florida after cleanup with the top in the closed position. With the burned RBCM, the top did not work. I had to use the emergency top release procedure to get the seats out. After the wiring and electrical problems were fixed,the top moved somewhat, stopping with an error at about 2/3rds down. Releasing the switch and trying again finished the lowering procedure. It remained consistent until now. I had thought it was the dreaded switch/sensor array gone bad that requires the top to be removed.

    What I did was to adjust the motor/transmission lock bolt after lowering the top. You turn the 13mm bolt head until you hear an audible pop that indicates the transmission is released from the motor. I then tightened it back up. I repeated for the other side. The top went up awkwardly and bound about 1/4 up. I had tightened one of the bolts too much and it was dragging on the transmission. I lowered the top until it was even, about 6 to 8 inches up and repeated the procedure, making sure that I didn't tighten the bolt too far.

    Got in the car and now the top raises and lowers without error. Yea! No $1600 repair needed!

    This leaves the car with one flood-related electrical issue: The radio only plays on the right side set of speakers. I believe that problem is the PCM radio or the wiring between the radio and the amplifier (Sound System Plus). I replaced the amplifier and the driver side speakers previously (And the left side issue was there with the original amplifier). Tomorrow, I may pull the radio and inject sounds into the left side wiring. If I get sound, it is the radio. If not, it is a wiring issue.

    Both of these things have been tolerable, but I am just now having the time to look into them. One down, one to go. I got the car in Jan 2018 with 10700 miles. Next drive will take it over 15K miles.

    V6
    Last edited by Voyager6; 06-06-2019 at 01:28 PM.

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Croc'ed View Post
    Go ahead and install the third radiator kit. It won't take any longer for the engine to get to operating temperature; the thermostat performs that function. The extra radiator simply increases cooling capacity, which is especially important during hot summer months when driving aggressively. I have installed a third radiator kit on my 987.1 Cayman 2.7, and also on my current 987.1 Boxster S LE, so I speak from experience.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    My concern is that the highway fuel mileage, as from the instrument cluster, will not go over 30 MPG until the oil temperature reaches 200F. The radiator will slow the oil temperature rise and delay the DME leaning out for max economy. I can see a difference in driving time reaching 30 MPG based on ambient temperatures.

    I will probably install it and block it off if it affects things too much by attaching a black cover to the Zunsport grills that will be installed at the same time as the radiator.

    V6
    Last edited by Voyager6; 06-06-2019 at 01:21 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Voyager6 View Post
    OK, it was dry mid-day so I was able to install the rocker panels. Here are the photos of the finished project:

    Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread-installed_drivers_side-jpg

    Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread-installed_pass_side-jpg

    Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread-installedds34-jpg

    V6
    Good job, I always thought the side scoops looked great on the Boxster!
    2016 BGTS since Sept 8th, 2015! Previous rides:
    2013 Boxster 981-S
    2006 Boxster Base
    2003 Boxster Base "First convertible"
    1990 RX-7 "Rotary Rocket"/ 1988 Z51 Corvette/ 1975 280Z

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