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Thread: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Westcoaster View Post
    The connectors and the outer case of the motors don't look too bad?

    BTW, this information is great to have, thanks!
    +1 Great info!


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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Given any consideration to just using a manual 3rd party seat?


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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Remember the seat base was under water and some things are rusted and/or the motors may have corrosion.

    4 bolts in the rails holds the seat to the chassis (two per side, two front, two rear). The issue is that the seat has to be moved all the way forward and backward to get to the bolts. If the forward/backward motor is dead, then you get in my situation. In my case, the seats were back far enough to get the front bolts out. I was able to 'fix' the driver's seat via lube, pounding to unfreeze stuck pats, and luck, I guess. But the passenger's seat so far has not responded to the same persuasion.

    The seats have front and rear lift motors (tilt is a combination of differences in the two heights. On the passenger's seat, the front lift motor was stuck, but I got it working and raised enough to get the motor drive connector off the power seat control module. However, the rear lift motor is dead as is the fore/aft motor.

    There are four arms that raise each end, two per side) and each has a nut or screw that holds it in place to the rails. Mounted, you dont't have a hope of getting them out unless the seat base is raised to the max height. The front lift mechanism sttachment is via a nut and it may be removable with the perfect set of tools. In that case, the seat can tilt back and I can access the rear motor to change it (held by two screws and I have a spare seat base with parts). My goal is to replace the rear lift motor and raise the back of the seat. With the front loose, I should then have access to the front/back motor and the entire slider/track assembly. All I can do is lube the track, pound on it to loosen it up, lube the gear train for the motor and pour lots of contact cleaner into the non-sealed motor and try one last time. If that fails, it is angle grinder time to cut the rails off the seat and then remove the rail bolts. If I am careful, I can use the rails and motor off the extra seat base and repair the seat once it is out of the car.

    My local dealer told me that they have had to cut a seat out once.

    V6

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    The control module under the left side seat controls the door locks, windows maybe, seats, top, rear lights, and probably everything on the rear of the car. If you don't remove the carpets and let them dry there will probably be mold grown. It's bitch but if you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it again? I bought a 2006 Boxster flooded from Tennessee. It appeared the flood was from some ham fisted mechanic messed up the top mechanisms. Broken connectors to the two side gearboxes, only one drip pan in the vehicle and it was twisted up like a leather coat sleeve. I couldn't tell what it was. There's a couple rubber plugs under the chassis in the area of the rear bulk head that partially seal a compartment that also has plugs into the passenger compartment. It will hold water and thus will be seeping inside the car until you remove them on the bottom let that water drain out.

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Voyager6 View Post
    Remember the seat base was under water and some things are rusted and/or the motors may have corrosion.

    4 bolts in the rails holds the seat to the chassis (two per side, two front, two rear). The issue is that the seat has to be moved all the way forward and backward to get to the bolts. If the forward/backward motor is dead, then you get in my situation. In my case, the seats were back far enough to get the front bolts out. I was able to 'fix' the driver's seat via lube, pounding to unfreeze stuck pats, and luck, I guess. But the passenger's seat so far has not responded to the same persuasion.

    The seats have front and rear lift motors (tilt is a combination of differences in the two heights. On the passenger's seat, the front lift motor was stuck, but I got it working and raised enough to get the motor drive connector off the power seat control module. However, the rear lift motor is dead as is the fore/aft motor.

    There are four arms that raise each end, two per side) and each has a nut or screw that holds it in place to the rails. Mounted, you dont't have a hope of getting them out unless the seat base is raised to the max height. The front lift mechanism sttachment is via a nut and it may be removable with the perfect set of tools. In that case, the seat can tilt back and I can access the rear motor to change it (held by two screws and I have a spare seat base with parts). My goal is to replace the rear lift motor and raise the back of the seat. With the front loose, I should then have access to the front/back motor and the entire slider/track assembly. All I can do is lube the track, pound on it to loosen it up, lube the gear train for the motor and pour lots of contact cleaner into the non-sealed motor and try one last time. If that fails, it is angle grinder time to cut the rails off the seat and then remove the rail bolts. If I am careful, I can use the rails and motor off the extra seat base and repair the seat once it is out of the car.

    My local dealer told me that they have had to cut a seat out once.

    V6
    I was about to say that Porsche 'should' have made allowance for such a situation, no not floods but failed motors, which allowed some ease of seat removal, but I guess in the end, if you have to cut some piece of replaceable metal that in itself is an acceptable process as it won't happen that often...
    2016 BGTS since Sept 8th, 2015! Previous rides:
    2013 Boxster 981-S
    2006 Boxster Base
    2003 Boxster Base "First convertible"
    1990 RX-7 "Rotary Rocket"/ 1988 Z51 Corvette/ 1975 280Z

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Sapientoni View Post
    The control module under the left side seat controls the door locks, windows maybe, seats, top, rear lights, and probably everything on the rear of the car. If you don't remove the carpets and let them dry there will probably be mold grown. It's bitch but if you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it again? I bought a 2006 Boxster flooded from Tennessee. It appeared the flood was from some ham fisted mechanic messed up the top mechanisms. Broken connectors to the two side gearboxes, only one drip pan in the vehicle and it was twisted up like a leather coat sleeve. I couldn't tell what it was. There's a couple rubber plugs under the chassis in the area of the rear bulk head that partially seal a compartment that also has plugs into the passenger compartment. It will hold water and thus will be seeping inside the car until you remove them on the bottom let that water drain out.
    I have always worried about convertibles because of their soft top, in a downpour it wouldn't take long for water to enter and build up in a hurry! That is why I don't like the Boxster Spyder roof, and added the piece of mind of the SmartTop module to my BGTS, one touch close and remote operation as well.

    I did have to deal with phenomena once, but not in a Porsche but a Jeep YJ, you know the kind, all manual top, dozens of push snaps, before I could even retrieve the top material there was two inches of water on the floor and rising, fortunately unlike the Boxster there is no sensitive electronics and motors under the seats! It took days for the carpet the dry even when it was pulled from the vehicle and hung to dry...
    2016 BGTS since Sept 8th, 2015! Previous rides:
    2013 Boxster 981-S
    2006 Boxster Base
    2003 Boxster Base "First convertible"
    1990 RX-7 "Rotary Rocket"/ 1988 Z51 Corvette/ 1975 280Z

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    I haven't looked at my 987 seats that closely but the 928s had a slot or allen socket to manually move the seats in case of a failure. I will attest to the fact that the rust is largely accelerated by electrolysis when salt water is involved. I learned this after my idea for an l.e.d. blinking fishing lure for deep sea fishing wasn't well sealed. After only about 5 minutes with a 9 volt battery, I pulled up a ziplock full of rusty water and circuits. Unbelievable!

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Westcoaster View Post
    I have always worried about convertibles because of their soft top, in a downpour it wouldn't take long for water to enter and build up in a hurry! That is why I don't like the Boxster Spyder roof, and added the piece of mind of the SmartTop module to my BGTS, one touch close and remote operation as well.

    I did have to deal with phenomena once, but not in a Porsche but a Jeep YJ, you know the kind, all manual top, dozens of push snaps, before I could even retrieve the top material there was two inches of water on the floor and rising, fortunately unlike the Boxster there is no sensitive electronics and motors under the seats! It took days for the carpet the dry even when it was pulled from the vehicle and hung to dry...
    The photos from the first auction showed the car had the top down when it was flooded. The first owner/winner did a remarkable job cleaning things up. The power top controller was reported dead on the insturment cluster, and I have since replaced it. I am sure it has to be re-calibrated but will let the dealer do it as the rear BCM has a part of the top control.

    V6
    Last edited by Voyager6; 02-03-2018 at 01:03 PM.

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Sapientoni View Post
    The control module under the left side seat controls the door locks, windows maybe, seats, top, rear lights, and probably everything on the rear of the car. If you don't remove the carpets and let them dry there will probably be mold grown. It's bitch but if you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it again? I bought a 2006 Boxster flooded from Tennessee. It appeared the flood was from some ham fisted mechanic messed up the top mechanisms. Broken connectors to the two side gearboxes, only one drip pan in the vehicle and it was twisted up like a leather coat sleeve. I couldn't tell what it was. There's a couple rubber plugs under the chassis in the area of the rear bulk head that partially seal a compartment that also has plugs into the passenger compartment. It will hold water and thus will be seeping inside the car until you remove them on the bottom let that water drain out.
    The surface of the carpet felt dry, but after removing the driver's seat to get to the rear BCM, some dampness was felt on the BCM and under the carpet. On a recent warm day, I had both doors open to let a breeze flow through and the underside of the carpet now feels dry. I do have mold/mildew killer preventer that will be used before the seats go back in.

    Doors and windows are seperate modules on the 981s as they both work with the seat controllers removed. Power mirror position may be affected, however.

    V6
    Last edited by Voyager6; 02-03-2018 at 01:04 PM.

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Sapientoni View Post
    I haven't looked at my 987 seats that closely but the 928s had a slot or allen socket to manually move the seats in case of a failure. I will attest to the fact that the rust is largely accelerated by electrolysis when salt water is involved. I learned this after my idea for an l.e.d. blinking fishing lure for deep sea fishing wasn't well sealed. After only about 5 minutes with a 9 volt battery, I pulled up a ziplock full of rusty water and circuits. Unbelievable!
    I wish there was a slot or a screw head, but the screw ends have nuts on them that come off when turned. Since the seat position is a worm gear drive, you generally cannot turn the threaded shaft as the worm gear won't turn.

    One other way to do this is to cut the black tube that goes from the motor and pull the flexable drive shaft out and with a power drill, turn the worm gearbox, but alternating from side to side to prevent binding. This could take a long time. Then once out, replace the motor assembly.

    There are several ways to remove a stuck seat, but the time to do most of them is long (especially outdoors in freezing weather).

    Went to local dealer today and picked up new rear BCM. I can't do anything with it until the dealer gets the car on the 13th as the dealer has to program it and marry it to the anti-theft system.

    V6
    Last edited by Voyager6; 02-03-2018 at 01:23 PM.

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    As with everything on this seat, I spent 90 minutes to try to get the front lift bracket loose when it should have taken 15 minutes. Two nuts came off fine with a thin wrench with a ratchet embedded in the boxed end. One screw, the one closest to the center console, popped out easily. However, the screw on the door sill side will not pop out, nor move with vice grips. There is limited space to press the screw out and the rail and the seat base appear solid. I am going to get a chisel and try to pull the head of the screw out enough to get two screwdrivers underneath to wedge the screw out. Then I can change motors and go from there. Frustrating.

    V6

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Voyager6 View Post
    As with everything on this seat, I spent 90 minutes to try to get the front lift bracket loose when it should have taken 15 minutes. Two nuts came off fine with a thin wrench with a ratchet embedded in the boxed end. One screw, the one closest to the center console, popped out easily. However, the screw on the door sill side will not pop out, nor move with vice grips. There is limited space to press the screw out and the rail and the seat base appear solid. I am going to get a chisel and try to pull the head of the screw out enough to get two screwdrivers underneath to wedge the screw out. Then I can change motors and go from there. Frustrating.

    V6
    Wow, a lot of things to do, I am sure you knew that, but still when they are listed out they seem endless!

    Got to be tough working outside (?) too, a warm dry well lit shop is what would make your job a lot easier to handle, hang in there, we are there with you in spirit!
    2016 BGTS since Sept 8th, 2015! Previous rides:
    2013 Boxster 981-S
    2006 Boxster Base
    2003 Boxster Base "First convertible"
    1990 RX-7 "Rotary Rocket"/ 1988 Z51 Corvette/ 1975 280Z

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Westcoaster View Post
    Wow, a lot of things to do, I am sure you knew that, but still when they are listed out they seem endless!

    Got to be tough working outside (?) too, a warm dry well lit shop is what would make your job a lot easier to handle, hang in there, we are there with you in spirit!
    Thanks,

    I am not in any real hurry except that I made a Feb 13th date to go to the dealer. Looking at the 10 day forcast, I am going to be out in the cold a lot next week if I am going to minimize dealer labor. They quoted me a $1500 diagnostic fee if any of the data buses are flakey.

    Anyway, what I need to do in the next 10 days are:

    1) Fix fresh air fan issue (runs all the time, even with key off)
    2) Fix passenger seat
    3) Spray Mold/Midew spray throughout the carpet.
    4) Check Audio Amplifier (appears to be working, but want to dry up any water that may be there and to clean contacts)
    5) Check power output to any device powered by the BCM for too much current.

    I fear putting the new $400 rear BCM in the car if there is a short elsewhere that may blow the RBCM. Since it was under water, it was likely that water was the only cause, but I want to check anyway. I will be soldering a fuse onto a wire and putting it into the wiring harness at the RBCM connector pins and see if the fuse blows. If not, then that pin is good. Things like rear brakes, convertable top, etc.Signals into the RBCM shouldn't be a cause to damage the RBCM, regardless if the input signals are good or bad.

    With the rBCM installed and programmed, then my PIWIZ can run comprehensive diagnostics to find any remaining issues.

    At the dealer, I am going to limit them to installing and programming the RBCM, train the convertible top, changing engine oil and coolant, and PDK fluids and brake fluids. That will run me over $1K as it is.

    Incidentially the rear BCM part number ordered was 9A790727900 and came labeled 7PP907279CF. The burnt out RBCM in the car was 7PP907279BD. If you look on ebay and other sites hosting detailed images, the different suffixes appear to be the same unit, but often has different number of pins in the connectors, I assume Porsche programms pins differently based on moel and options. It looks like Porsche has settled on one or two versions that cover all applications universally as I am sure the parts savings to partially populate a unit is small.

    V6
    Last edited by Voyager6; 02-03-2018 at 07:53 PM.

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    There is a microswitch that tells the top when it's down or up. Maybe one, maybe both. The arms were bent and the plastic "safety" connectors broken when I acquired my "flood" car. The single drip pan that was in my car was twisted around the driver side actuating arm and looked like a leather jacketicon sleeve. The wires to the motor had also gotten caught up somehow in this mess and a wire to the left brake abs sensor was ripped out too. Took a bit of splicing but I got it all functioning correctly after rebuilding the side gear boxes. I don't think there is a "teach" to the top action. It's just a synch to the geared arms and both mounted correctly with the main drive motor cables which drive them. If no damage in those areas, you won't have to work there. If you let the dealer think it needs "teaching", you'll probably get a charge for it. Good Luck on your adventure.

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Looking at the top will be the last thing to do before the car goes to the dealer. The top was down when the car was first auctioned in October and it was delivered up. How it got up with the rear BCM blown is unknown. Now there is the emergency top raise process in the owner's manual, but I do not know if that was used as it requires seveal straps and wires to be disconnected. All I know is that the instrument cluster reported the top controller not accessible and I replaced the controller. However, I need to get the top down to help with removing the seats and allow me to get on my back to get under the dash to work on the blower motor.

    Woke up to a new 2" of snow this morning.

    V6

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    OK, I braved the 22F temperature today for 2.5 hours and had a little bit of success.

    First, I had bought a wood chisel and used that to pop out the stuck screw that held one of the front lifting arms to the rail. It took a dozen hammer hits to get it to come out but it finally came out. At first I was disappointed as the seat only raised up another inch. However, I realized the seat back was hitting the firewall and by unlatching the seat back and moving it forward, it allowed the seat base to raise nearly a foot off the floor! I have full access to everything under the seat, including full access to the fore/aft motor.

    I hooked up power directly to the motor and it was dead. I hit the motor and full rail length with PB Blaster and still no go. The neat thing was the four torx head screws that hold the motor assembly to the rails were accessible and I was able, with difficulty due to losing some dexterity in the fingers due to cold and the high torque of the screws, managed to get the four T40 screws out. I reviewed the motor from the extra seat base and felt there was enough flexibility in the shafts to pull it out. I then went to the passenger seat and just pulled up on the assembly, starting at the black tube side. It left the long spiral shaft in the seat, but pulled out of the black tube and the motor end came out easily. The last bit was to release a wiring clip on the bottom of the metal cross bracket and it was free. That is where I stopped for today, but I have hope next time will yield a seat that moves back and forth.

    I did remove one of the two screws in the rear lift motor. The front screw was easily removed, but the rear screw is blind (again a mirror would help) and I decided to wait until the seat is out of the car as it would be more accessible.

    After removing the fore/aft motor, I cleaned it with contact cleaner and tried to run it again and it was still dead. So it was not a jammed slider rail, the water killed the motor.

    I looked into taking the convertible top down, reading and thinking about using the reverse of the emergency top raise procedure in the owner's manual. It refered to a special tool stored with the tools in the front luggage compartment. The case was there that holds the tools, but every tool was missing (as well as the tire sealant). So I need a top tool. The locking pin at the firewall sides is a 13mm wrench, so that will not be a problem. If anyone has the tool and can tell me if it can be replaced by a socket or wrench and what size, please let me know.

    V6
    Last edited by Voyager6; 02-19-2018 at 07:38 AM. Reason: Changed T30 to T40

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Voyager6 View Post
    OK, I braved the 22F temperature today for 2.5 hours and had a little bit of success.

    First, I had bought a wood chisel and used that to pop out the stuck screw that held one of the front lifting arms to the rail. It took a dozen hammer hits to get it to come out but it finally came out. At first I was disappointed as the seat only raised up another inch. However, I realized the seat back was hitting the firewall and by unlatching the seat back and moving it forward, it allowed the seat base to raise nearly a foot off the floor! I have full access to everything under the seat, including full access to the fore/aft motor.

    I hooked up power directly to the motor and it was dead. I hit the motor and full rail length with PB Blaster and still no go. The neat thing was the four torx head screws that hold the motor assembly to the rails were accessible and I was able, with difficulty due to losing some dexterity in the fingers due to cold and the high torque of the screws, managed to get the four T30 screws out. I reviewed the motor from the extra seat base and felt there was enough flexibility in the shafts to pull it out. I then went to the passenger seat and just pulled up on the assembly, starting at the black tube side. It left the long spiral shaft in the seat, but pulled out of the black tube and the motor end came out easily. The last bit was to release a wiring clip on the bottom of the metal cross bracket and it was free. That is where I stopped for today, but I have hope next time will yield a seat that moves back and forth.

    I did remove one of the two screws in the rear lift motor. The front screw was easily removed, but the rear screw is blind (again a mirror would help) and I decided to wait until the seat is out of the car as it would be more accessible.

    After removing the fore/aft motor, I cleaned it with contact cleaner and tried to run it again and it was still dead. So it was not a jammed slider rail, the water killed the motor.

    I looked into taking the convertible top down, reading and thinking about using the reverse of the emergency top raise procedure in the owner's manual. It refered to a special tool stored with the tools in the front luggage compartment. The case was there that holds the tools, but every tool was missing (as well as the tire sealant). So I need a top tool. The locking pin at the firewall sides is a 13mm wrench, so that will not be a problem. If anyone has the tool and can tell me if it can be replaced by a socket or wrench and what size, please let me know.

    V6
    OK, just opened the kit for the first time It has a #2 Phillips/1/4" blade screwdriver, 10/13 open end wrench, 8mm headlight tool, and that special convertible top tool...

    The convertible top tool has three ends, 5mm hex, 6mm diameter semi-open sleeve and a special design tip for operating the motor. PN 991.561.413.00
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread-convertible-top-tool-1_20180205_151839-jpg   Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread-convertible-top-tool-2_20180205_151839-jpg   Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread-convertible-top-tool-3_20180205_151839-jpg  
    2016 BGTS since Sept 8th, 2015! Previous rides:
    2013 Boxster 981-S
    2006 Boxster Base
    2003 Boxster Base "First convertible"
    1990 RX-7 "Rotary Rocket"/ 1988 Z51 Corvette/ 1975 280Z

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Thanks for the photos,

    I found a complete kit on eb*y and paid for priority express shipping. Already been shipped (at least I have a tracking number). Should have it on Thursday or Friday at the latest. I am likely to move the dealer date two weeks to the end of the month to allow me time (especially if there is more bad weather) to get as much fixed locally before going to the dealer and save money. I may work on the car tomorrow and hope to get the seat out. At that point I will take the seat inside (warm) and change the base leather, replace the one bad motor, get the new seat controllers installed and then cleaned up and leather conditioner.

    In the future, the way to get the seats out when they won't move is to remove the front two lift arm screws/nuts. When the base is lifted up, everything but the rear seal mount bolts are accessible. All motors, wiring and the seat controllers and its mounting screws are fully accessible.

    V6

    V6

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Tool kit arrived today. Cleaned up 4" of new snow off car and driveway and should get some work done tomorrow and Friday. Moved my dealer appt from the 13th to 27th, to give me more time and potentially warmer weather to get all the preliminary work preformed.

    V6

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    Re: Voyager6's Boxster Mod Thread

    Got the passenger seat rear mounting bolts loose. Finally! I have to get the convertible top down to give me room to actually remove the seat from the car.

    OK, here is the way to get the 14 or 18 way power seat mounting bolts out if a seat does not move:

    1) Remove negative ground terminal from battery, wait two minutes to prevent airbag going off.
    2) With 10mm ratchet wrench, remove nut on front lift arm, both sides. If bolt stickes, it will pop out if you get a sharp knife or chisel underneath.
    3) Press backrest lever up and push backrest forward as far as it will go.
    4) Raise seat base just high enough to reach and remove wire connector from bottom motor (fore/aft that is mounted on the aluminum cross bracket). The wire is too short and will pull off the motor and may damage connector at the motor if you raise the seat base too high with the wires connected to the motor. The connector slides backward, towards the center of the seat.
    5) Now raise seat all the way up. You should have full access to motors and the controll unit and internal wiring connectors,etc.
    6) Remove two T40 bolts that hold the fore/aft motor assembly (motor mounted on aluminum plate to a side slider rail). Repeat on other slide rail.
    7) Carefully pull motor assembly out. Remove any flexible shaft still sticking in the slide rails (important)
    8) There will be a plastic cable holder attached to a hole in the bottom of the alumimum bracket. Use needle nose pliers, press the latch on the head, and pull the cable retainer out of the bracket. Put motor assembly and four mounting bolts out if the way so they won't get lost.
    9) The seat is wired to the chassis via a large yellow connector. On its side is a black sliding lock. Pull the black slider out and the connector will release.
    10) Make sure the slide rails are free from debris (dropped food or anything else.
    11) With seat base fully up, spray penetrating oil on the sliders, front to rear.
    12) Push the seat back to expose the front mounting screws. Remove with E12 socket. (Yes, it is that simple!) If seat catches, work it forward and backwards to loosen up.
    13) Push the seat forward to expose the rear mounting screws. Remove with E12 socket.
    14) Seat is ready for removal

    The magic tricks are getting the thin 10mm ratchet wrench to break the front lift arm mounting nuts loose (it is a tight space) and the knowledge that the four torx T40 bolts that hold the motor assembly in place also keep the worm gear transmission tied to the upper part of the slide rail. With the four motor bracket bolts loose, the gear box stays in place while the upper rail and seat moves. The normal attachment for the square flexible shafts is that it connects into a square hole exposed through a 0.5 inch hole in the upper slide rail. If the shaft is connected and the motor bracket bolts are removed, the hole in the slide rail will pinch and possibly cut off the end of the flexible shaft.

    When reassembling, the seat rails must be pushed so the threads for the transmission internal to the rails are exposed in the holes of the top slider rail and the square drive on the inner side of the rail should be close to centered. Once centered, put the motor bracket in place, ensure the two square holes are aligned and inserted and bolt the rails to the motor assembly. Because of the design, they need to be tight and/or blue thread sealant used as it turns out those four bolts are the majority of what holds the seat in place. More than what mount the seats to the chassis.

    V6
    Last edited by Voyager6; 02-19-2018 at 07:41 AM. Reason: Changed T30 to T40

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