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987.1 Cayman Track Build Journey

48K views 114 replies 20 participants last post by  joshua@arcflash 
#1 ·
Hello everyone,

I recently bought 987.1 Cayman S, 6 spd manual, strictly for track use and eventually competitive racing. I thought this would be a good medium to document the build and track day information to share with others. I bought the car with 48,000 miles from a previous owner who only used it to get some groceries so it is fairly new for a 10 year old car. I did some research as to the challenges of tracking the first gen cayman and have taken some steps to band aid these issues.

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Before my first track day:
- Hawk DTC 70 F and Hawk DTC 60 R brake pads
- Stainless Steel brake lines
- Motul RBF600
- GT3 ducts
- TuneRS 3 quart Accusump system with remote oil filter
- Oil cooler
- Mantis 2L oil sump
- 996 oil-air seperators in sump
- Custom trans cooler with Tilton pump
- Custom exhaust and punched-out cats
- Motorsport AOS (996, removed secondary air pump)
- Enlarged the front bumper inlets and modified the radiator ducts to size
- Added 3rd radiator
- New OEM spark plugs
- New BMC air filter
- Wheel stud conversion

So it took me a while to get all these items installed in the car. Considering how absolutely frustrating it is to work near the engine in this car I feel like I did a pretty good job not setting it on fire. The accusump was mounted in the trunk along with the filter to have easy access to it. I made some custom lines to include a Setrab 25-row oil cooler in the rear bumper along with transmission cooler. I chose this location since there is plenty of space and an opening in the bumper relieve the air that flows through the coolers. Some obstacles with this includes the fact that the exhaust is sitting inches in front of them. Another issue I came across with finding the proper fittings to rig the custom trans cooler. There the ports used to drain and fill are used to pull and return oil. Installing the AOS was most likely the most painful part of this whole process. I opted to completely removed the air pump. This came with a check engine light and an idle that makes it sound like a 70's cammed camaro lol. However, once it warmed up it subsided. I used aluminum sheet metal and rivets to cut and enlarge the OEM ducts to feed more air to the OEM radiators.
 
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#42 ·
Vision Motorsports - I worked with Dwaine for my engine replacement and he is a great guy. He's got a track package that will take care of most all the weaknesses of the M94 engine. Pick your displacement, your options, and you'll have a new engine pretty quick.

You can also go with Raby though he has a big backlog and it may take some time before he can schedule you in.

I think BRG in Florida also does M97 track engines???
 
#43 ·
Vision Motorsports - I worked with Dwaine for my engine replacement and he is a great guy. He's got a track package that will take care of most all the weaknesses of the M94 engine. Pick your displacement, your options, and you'll have a new engine pretty quick.
+1

I did the same. Motor is on its 3rd year of racing, and I beat this thing like a drum. Did the oil analysis just recently and got an extremely clean bill of health.
 
#45 · (Edited)
*EDIT* I misread the question. Thought you asked about a dry sump, not a deep sump. To clarify - I didn't add a dry sump but DID add a deep sump.

I've considered adding a dry sump when the motor comes out for a refresh, but I'm not aware of a gen 1 motor built by Vision having oiling issues. His motors don't need an accusump as he addresses the issues with the heads directly. Besides the accusump is a band-aid, and isn't foolproof.
 
#48 ·
Does Vision include the TTP third oil salvage pump in the head or maybe a fourth?
 
#50 · (Edited)
Bilt/LN has released a new 3rd oil scavenge pump for bank 4-5. I guess this will be the final item to my track prep for my M97 before I go for the seats, 6 point harness and roll bar. The issue is the cost of this single item. Then the install as well as an oil pressure sender unit for a set of VDO analog gauges. The Porsche Motorsports AOS is also a requirement for this scavenge pump as the vacuum of the AOS helps take out the head foam and small oil droplets in the head air. Let me know if you think this would help. I have the complete LN lower end 2 qt deep sump with skid plate and a 987.1 motorsports AOS.

I would recommend that those of us who are track racing with R rated tires, please review a past thread on P9 from 2017 regrading the use of a TTP oil scavenge pump by MidEngine4Life. This thread is much more indepth than others I have read related to the oil starvation problem with the 987.1 M97 engine. Engine oil foam retained in the heads. No oil gauge in the dash board to see the fluxuation in oil pressure.

LN highly suggests not to use Hoosier R-7's rather limit your track experience to a higher tire coefficient - Sorry that's the story. A-7's ok for autocross though.

mgarcia048-I have to say that your blowup got our attention. Maybe this one item is the missing link at was discussed a couple of years ago to prolong the 987.1's M97 track longevity.
 
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#51 ·
Bilt/LN has released a new 3rd oil pressure pump for bank 4-5. I guess this will be the final item to my track prep for my M97 before I go for the seats, 6 point harness and roll bar. The issue is the cost of this single item. Then the install as well as an oil pressure sender unit for a set of VDO analog gauges. Let me know if you think this would help. I have the complete LN lower end 2 qt deep sump with skid plate.

I would recommend that those of us who are track racing with R rated tires, please review a past thread on P9 from 2017 regrading the use of a TTP oil scavenge pump by MidEngine4Life. This thread is much more indepth than others I have read related to the oil starvation problem with the 987.1 M97 engine. Engine oil foam retained in the heads. No oil gauge in the dash board to see the fluxuation in oil pressure.

mgarcia048-I have to say that your blowup got our attention. Maybe this one item is the missing link at was discussed a couple of years ago to prolong the 987.1's M97 track longevity.

Hey Apex,

I have seen these oil pressure pumps, I think for a car that is not a dedicated track car it is best solution you can offer alongside an accusump. I have spoken to several race shops that build these motors. The issue that was a recuurent theme with their explanations of what happens when an engine blows up is due to the oil pump and its passages on the way back to the sump. From what i understand the oil pump has high volume and so pulls alot of oil from the sump. Much of this oil remains in the heads due there being only return pump per head. So, the oil is stagnant in other places in the motor and not returning to sump effectively. A third pump would definitely help returning the oil and even a 4th one on the other head be better. That was the solution in the 9A1 motors. I strongly believe that the foaming of the oil is not as serious as an issue of the amount of oil in the sump/ cavitation.

Unfortunately, I think the only real way we will be able get rid of the issues with M97 motors is a true dry sump. Something else that is unfortunate is the lack of experiemention by members of this community. I have never seen dry sumped cayman/boxster in person and only a handful of threads exisit about this. I know for a fact that I am going to build a dry sump using minimal custom parts and I will docuement everything. I want others in this community to be able to replicate what I am doing for a price that is not astronimical. Hopefully it'll cost at most, 3.5K when it is all said and done. I will posting more updates about how I will plumb the system, what parts I will use, what will need to be custom etc...
 
#52 · (Edited)
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This picture is of a M97 and its oil passages. For my plans to for the dry I intend to take two scavenge points to the sump and block off the stock oil pump and remove the gears that produce pressure. I also plan to scavenge each head to ensure oil isnt being uneccesarily pooled. I will be most likely mounting the pump on top of the block where the AC compressor once was. The plan is to use a 3 gallon tank which will provide more than enough oil to the motor even it uses 10 quarts at a time. The filter and cooler for the oil will be inline from the out pressure line. PLease let me know what you guys think. If you have any questions let me know!

List of parts I will use:

ARE 3 gallon tank
5-Stage Oil pump (havent decided which one)
RSS Harmoically Balanced pulley for running the pump
Brown and Miller Hoses
ARE Breather tank
Peterson Large Remote Primer Mount
Spintric Air/Oil Seperator
ARE 3 Bolt on Drive Mandrels
ARE HTD pulleys


I use exact part numbers when they are ordered and finalized.
 
#53 ·
OKay some exciting news this week. I think I am closing in on an overall design for the dry sump. I also found a thread of Boxster GT racer with the very same idea I had. The motor is going to be pulled next week and I will begin to order dry sump parts.

Here are some pictures of that Boxster:

Link:3.6L Boxster GT Racer - Page 5 - 986 Forum - for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

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The location of the pump will be similar, it might be where the PS pump is or AC depending on space and lines etc.

Mounting the tank was also something that concerned me. The GT3 has this nifty custom tank that comes strapped on to it's back near the transmission.


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The problem is that this tank is about 1500 euros which is about the cost of the whole dry sump kit I am going to piece together so that is out of the question. Luckily, dry sumps are very versitile. Since the tank can be mounted anywhere, I will be mounting in the front trunk like the 914 vintage racers.

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#54 · (Edited)
Charles Navarro, President of LN confirmed this morning to Colin Cantrell that the Tandem dual oil pump is no longer available and he is taking it off the web page. Navarro's solution is his deep sump with windage tray, Porsche 987.1 AOS and Driven XP-9 oil, no Accusump. I am not happy about this solution. This puts the onus of the engine starvation issue clearly back on the driver, thus a need for an accurate oil pressure guage, oil temperature and a 3rd 997 center radiator.

Or, a dry sump like you are doing with plenty of oil in the tank.
 
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#56 ·
Charles Navarro, President of LN confirmed this morning to Colin Cantrell that the Tandem dual oil pump is no longer available and he is taking it off the web page. Navarro's solution is his deep sump with windage tray, Porsche 987.1 AOS and Driven XP-9 oil, no Accusump. I am not happy about this solution. This puts the onus of the engine starvation issue clearly back on the driver, thus a deffinate need for accurate oil pressure guage, oil temperature and a 3rd 997 center radiator.

Or, a dry sump like you are doing with plenty of oil in the tank.
Yeah, the dry sump is extreme but its pennies in comparsion to what a rebuilt motor is worth. There is a scavenge-only dry sump method if you're interested in trying. I have no experience with this just read a ton of forums on other racecars using this method.
 
#55 · (Edited)
Now that the big stuff is taken care of, I am looking at the details. I am considering either modiying the stock oil pan to something like this 928 dry sump or keeping my mantis motorsport pan and adding two peterson oil pickups with some custom baffling.

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I'll talk to some race shops with experience on what the best way to go. If there is space, I would like to mount the pump on to the pan itself like many LS motors do but I doubt there will room for such activities lol.

The other two pickup points will mimick the GT3 oil pathway.

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The scavenge point will be on opposite sides of the OEM cylinder head scavenging points on the bottom side where the oil sits. Now there will be scavenging points all over the underside of the motor and, in theory, there will be little chance of oil pooling on one head for two long. Obviously getting rid of oil starvation but also oil injestion. There would no need to run an 996 AOS or 987 Motorsport AOS. The more I search on the topic of dry sumps, I am surprised that more race shops don't offer a standard kit. It solves all oil issues for the M97 except the IMS bearing issue.

As far as rebuilding the engine, I will be going to EvoSpec for this. The list of parts is as follows:

ENGINE INTERNAL:GENERIC PARTS
EvoSpec 3.8L conversion for M96/M97 engine. Includes billet
liners, Forged pistons, rings, pins, and locks. Includes
machining.

ENGINE INTERNAL:ENGCRS-997TT
Carrillo H-Beam Connecting Rod for Porsche M96/M97 OEM
Crank. WMC Bolt.

ENGHSK-10
EvoSpec, Porsche M96/M97..10MM H-11 Head Stud Kit. 24
Piece Kit...With nuts and washers

ENGINE INTERNAL:GENERIC PARTS
OEM Bearing set for mains and rods. Full set

ENGINE INTERNAL:GENERIC PARTS
EvoSpec stage 1 heads for M96/M97 engines. Ported intake
and Exhaust. OEM valve train. Includes comp valve job,
guides, seals, and mill flat.

ENGINE INTERNAL:GENERIC PARTS
EvoSpec regrind camshaft set for M96/M97 engine. OEM
cam adjuster.

ENGINE INTERNAL:GENERIC PARTS
LN Engineering upgraded INT shaft bearing set for race
engines. Oil feed.
Billet pump hex drive.

ENGINE INTERNAL:GENERIC PARTS
OEM Chain rail set. Includes oil pump rail

ENGINE INTERNAL:ENGGK997
OEM 987 Long Block Gasket and Hardware kit. Complete
with OEM Parts. Includes INT Shaft Bearings

ENGINE INTERNAL:4.0LASSEM
EvoSpec 3.8L Long Block Assembly Procedure. Includes tear
down, inspection, prep, sizing, and assembly with custom
timing if applicable. Includes leak down and coolant system
check.

Along with a IPD plenum and custom intake, I will be revving the motor to a conservative 7.5K hopefully and making some good power. With this oil pump I should be able to control oil pressures to my liking so there will be some research and development to fine tune this.


I also have ideas for a scavenge only dry sump which would retain the OEM oil pump lower the cost significantly. If anyone is interested in hearing it just let me know. However, I will only be docuementing this kit that is mentioned above.

Any and all questions/critism welcomed.
 
#58 ·
I've thought about rolling my own dry sump and reached out to Dailey engineering about it. They referred me to Chris Cervilli who has a very clever system available for Cayman & Boxter. He developed it for his track Boxter. This is a track only solution or a very hard core street / track car as you will lose your AC compressor and some trunk space for the oil tank.

He uses the main oil pump to scavenge the pan, routes the oil out the filter port to the storage tank. The 15 qt. tank has an integrated filter, air / oil separator, dip stick and even an optional heater. The tank feeds the pressure stage of the external oil pump. The external oil pump has 3 scavenging sections and an air/oil separator. Suction points are the back of each head and the IMS cover.

Not a cheap solution since the engine needs to come out of the car but if you are replacing a blown engine it's out anyway. This looks to be as good as it gets for an M96 or 97

"CHRIS CERVELLI" CHRISCERVELLI@msn.com 303 809 6173
 
#60 ·
Hey man, I’ve seen your build! It’s quite incredible !

Anyways, by no means am I an expert on dry sumps or any kind of mechanic but I’d rather go my own route with the kit since the motor will be rebuilt. I’m not a fan of the stock oil pump scavenging the sump but that’s just me. Maybe it’s not even justifiable lol. But I’d rather mimick the GT3 oil passaging and have two points of suction with a custom pan at the bottom and remove the stock oil pump. I really do like the big tank that’s very important for keep oil temps down. For a cayman though I’d rather see the tank in the front. If the car ever manages to cartwheel down the track I’d rather not have an oil tank in the cabin. Another factor is the price. The fact that there’s not even a custom oil pan or anything I can’t rationalize that price for the kit. I mean a 4-5 stage dry sump kit for an LS is near 4-5K. With custom CNC mounts, pan, ATI damper etc. I’d rather go my own route. I really appreciate the input tho! Please let me know if you have any other suggestions I really appreciate any and all criticism:)
 
#59 · (Edited)
A year or so ago on another forum there was a post I believe by the owner of Flat 6 Innovations about the oiling issues on these motors. The author indicated one of the main issues was the oil feed design, that is the rod bearing closest to the rear of the car (#6?) being fed the oil that comes from the rear main bearing. The author indicated that the rear main gets the oil very hot due to loading from the clutch/flywheel at high RPM and then the oil goes to #6. During heavy track driving normal oils are too hot and break down. This is where the solution for professional grade $20 quart oil came from - it does not break down.

Since then I have wondered if you were getting a full rebuild as shown above - could this oil issue be addressed? Changing the oil feed location seems like it would require some major machine work but I think they do things like this on domestic V8 hot rod builds?

Would an oil cooler solve this? I wonder if the "track" rebuild that Flat 6 does addresses this "design issue". I dont think they will share their secrets on this.

M Garcia would you discuss with your builder and share here the details? If this is ann issue I am sure Cervelli addresses this on his endurance race cars somehow.
 
#61 ·
A year or so ago on another forum there was a post I believe by the owner of Flat 6 Innovations about the oiling issues on these motors. The author indicated one of the main issues was the oil feed design, that is the rod bearing closest to the rear of the car (#6?) being fed the oil that comes from the rear main bearing. The author indicated that the rear main gets the oil very hot due to loading from the clutch/flywheel at high RPM and then the oil goes to #6. During heavy track driving normal oils are too hot and break down. This is where the solution for professional grade $20 quart oil came from - it does not break down.

So I had the same concern so I used redline racing oil with ZDDP and it still blew. I don’t think the type of oil is the issue it’s most likely pump cavitation and aeration

Since then I have wondered if you were getting a full rebuild as shown above - could this oil issue be addressed?

As far the rebuild goes evospec doesn’t resolve any issues regarding the actual problem sense that can’t really redesign how the oil moves through the motor

Changing the oil feed location seems like it would require some major machine work but I think they do things like this on domestic V8 hot rod builds?

Interesting concept, however for the pump to have two separate pressure section it requires a big *** pump with like 4-5 sections of scavenging. I think it’s overkill.
As long as the oil is deaerated and pressure is continuously strong it’ll be fine. If the oil temps are low and high pressure it’ll make it to the back of the crank just fine. The problem becomes when there’s a loss of pressure, the oil that reaches the back is poor and causes those bearing issues

Would an oil cooler solve this? I wonder if the "track" rebuild that Flat 6 does addresses this "design issue". I dont think they will share their secrets on this.

I have a 25 row setrab oil cooler with a fan and temps were just fine.

M Garcia would you discuss with your builder and share here the details? If this is ann issue I am sure Cervelli addresses this on his endurance race cars somehow.
I wrote comments in the quote but did not highlight them lol sorry I’m updating through a phone

The dry sump is how Chris Addresses these issues which is why I am going the dry sump way. I will definitely share details of the build, oil pressures with the dry sump, final details, temperature, data etc.. I really want to help the M97/96 community that goes to HPDEs/ amateur racing with this issue
 
#62 ·
For now my build is staying with the wet sump, a properly clearanced engine with good rods and a deep baffled oil pan. One key reason is that I'll never be turning this engine past 6,800 rpm. My engine builder (Vision motorsports) is convinced that holding the RPM down in a properly built engine is key to the oiling issue. If I do go to a dry sump it will be a roll my own but I do like the idea of using the existing OP to scavenge the pan. If the heads are properly scavenged there's no need for multiple pick up points in the pan. I have four existing scavenge pump stages on the heads, 2 are used for the heads and two for the turbos. I would add a three section external pump with two scavenge pumps for the back of the heads and one pressure stage. The only place left for the tank will be the right seat area in an enclosure because my car is being converted to a single center radiator in the frunk area for aero reasons.

I told Vision if this engine blows from oil starvation I'm going to drop a TT Chevy small block in it. It will bolt right up to my Albins gear box and be cheaper than another Porsche engine. Make 1000 HP too ! LOL

I'll be very interested in seeing what you come up with.
 
#63 ·
Thanks Diver, I’ve actually read your thread multiple times. I would love to see the single mount radiator in the front ! And yeah I would agree with vision, the stock oil pump is a big issue. Keeping the RPMs lower make sense to avoid cavitation. My goal is to ensure that no cavitation occurs even if I over rev to 8K. I think I would cry if a 20K rebuilt motor goes to **** under 100 hours of use haha. I’ve contemplated LS swaps as well since it’s insanely cheap to replace a motor. What series do you currently race in? Which would you run with the LS ?
 
#67 ·
I don't want to hijack this thread but as APEX1 has pointed out it has been done by several guys posting here. It would be easier for me to do it for the race car since we have already moved the firewall, the Motec ECU will run the Chevy engine and the Albin's gear box will bolt right up. My Porsche engine is making over 700 HP so if it lives that's more than enough for me!
 
#66 · (Edited)
Joshuaj/ARCflash on this web site has exactly that Chev motor in his 987.1. If you go back into his history on P9 you can see how he did it. He is listed in the vendor section, which is almost at the bottom
of the forums.

 
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#68 · (Edited)
mgarcia048, After going down a rabbit hole chasing a 3rd dual oil/vacuum oil pump for the head,(still available through TTP in Germany), I have devised another idea to protect the #6 rod bearing. The oil comes through the rear main bearing and is heated up more than the oil temp gauge says by about 50 degrees, so lets say 280 degrees before oiling the #6 rod bearing. I want to reduce this by the pictures below using CSF radiators and a GT3 oil/water exchanger. I can then run Mobil 1 FS 0W-40, which will allow my Porsche MotorSports AOS to pull out of the heads via the two pumps and the vacuum lines enough foam and oil to keep the main oil pump from caveatition during high G force long turns or threshold braking and rt or left turns. I can see the results with three mechanical analog gauges on my dash board hopefully in sports chrono warts glued into the top of the dash. Let me know what you think as you are going to try the GT3 route of a dry sump.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carmichael
So I've been reading up on some of the oiling issues on the M96/97 motors, and found that most guys who track their cars regularly see oil temperatures upwards of 250 degrees Fahrenheit.

Obviously, the most popular modification to combat high oil temps is the addition of the third/center radiator, and some vendors have come up with pretty good solutions like BRS's water/oil cooler to air/air oil cooler adapter. Some digging on the Planet9 forums turned up this thread.

Does anyone have any experience with the Vision Motorsports GT3 oil/water cooler adapter on our 997.1s? By my calculations, the GT3 cooler has 65% more capacity than the coolers on our M96/97-engined 997.1s. This should definitely make a difference in keeping temperatures down.

Seems to me like a GT3 cooler, along with a center radiator, deep sump pan and windage tray would pretty much solve all the oil-related problems for us M96/97 guys.



Carmichael,
Not sure if you are still active on this web site, but I am in the final phase of getting my 987.1 ready for the track this summer. Shortly I will have the car serviced by Cantrell for 3 CSF larger radiators in front and a GT3 oil/water exchanger. I also am having three mechanical analog 2 5/8 inch Autometer oil pressure, oil temp and water temp installed in my dash. These modifications, along with a LN deep sump/windage plate and a Porsche MotorSports AOS should be sufficient to prevent #6 rod bearing scarring. Below are a couple of pictures relating to my build out. The large mechanical gauges should be able to tell me if I am getting foam/air/oil cavitation at the oil pump head, allowing a quick reduction in RPM/G forces. My target is to keep the oil temperature below 230 degrees while on the gas and the oil pressure above 50-60 psi on long high G force left hand corners and threshold braking to rt or left corners. I may resort to using the LN bullit oil filter for race days with their Driven XP-9 oil to keep the pressure high. That filter has 80 micron filtering (much less back pressure) vs 19 for their recommended Napa screw on canister.

I am thinking about placement of the gauges so I can see them at a glance without interfering with track activities. Maybe I can order three Sport Chrono bumps or a 3 hole WRX gauge holder for my gauges and have Cantrell glue them onto the top of the dash? Not a fan of the gauges along the B pillar.

 
#69 ·
I know about oiling issues on the M97 ! When I bought a used cayman in 2011 it had already bigger AOS and deep sump with X51 baffles.
Long story, short result: On my first track drive (Imola) after a long left turn a rod bearing went bad.

Since then I installed a ttp scavenge pump to scavenge the right side front of the cylinder head. Never had a problem again.
If you don't want to spend so much: An easy solution is to use an electric pump to scavenge the right side cyl head front.
For you guys in the US there an address of very knowlegeable but absolutely mad piston heads: https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm

Good luck
Andreas
 
#70 · (Edited)
Andreas, Thank you for your update on the TTP scavenge pump. Any idea where I could get one? LN and other install shops have said the supplier has quit making these pumps? While this season is pretty much locked into the current modifications of keeping the oil cool to the rod bearing, I would consider this for next year. rbracing have these or have an idea of how to hook up the electric pump for track use? Thanks,
Ken
 
#72 · (Edited)
Andreas, Looks like TTP has the scavenge pump and hose listed on their web site. I will order one for install later this year.
Thanks,
Ken
 
#74 ·
Quick update: Titan Motorsports in Orlando has taken hold of the car and dropped the motor out. I just received a message from John Bray at EvoSpec that they have the motor and the teardown will happen next week. Some exciting pictures are coming for sure. Also Titan and Evospec are going to be working together on the dry sump which is also pretty great. Hopefully, Titan can bring this dry sump to market in the future.

Vehicle Motor vehicle Automobile repair shop Tire Automotive tire

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#75 ·
All very cool stuff! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with. I took another step towards dry sump do to another issue. I'm really feeling snake bit as a rock flew up hit the engine pully and popped off my drive belt for the water pump. It was during qualifying and by the time I pulled into the pit I had done some damage to the valve guides! I was lucky that the lower end is OK but since the engine is out of the car I had Vision add drain ports to the rear of both heads and the bottom of the IMS. I already have dual pumps on each head for the front and the turbos. So I'm ready to go to dry sump in the near future adding a 4 stage pump that will scavenge the new locations along with the existing pumps and will also use the existing pressure pump to scavenge the pan. So a pump for each corner of the heads and two pumps for the sump.
 
#76 ·
Update:

John tore down the motor and found rod bearing #2 failed and caused all sorts of havoc. Luckily the crankshaft is fine and so is the block. I will posting pcitures as soon as I receive them


Quick question: Are there any mods I should do while the motor is out? i.e. lightweight flywheel, clutch kit, IPD plenum, wevo motor/trans mounts?

I've been told that the plenum can wait and money can be better spent on the car (I agree). Also LFW I am skeptical about considering that some cars have vibrational issues related to the crankshaft, is this true for the cayman? motor mounts are not really solid so do they make a drastic difference? Clutch kit, will the OEM clutch hold the 3.8L power? is not that much more, EvoSpec estimated 60 more hp/tq.

Any and all comments appreciated!
 
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