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Thread: 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods

  1. #41
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    Re: 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods

    Hello,
    As the company that has programmed the Interseries cars, Winning Daytona, World Challenge and others the suspension and adjustments are very crucial. This is also along with your training or track experience. One thing you could also consider is the tuning of the car. Your at 320BHP and Softronicicon was at 360BHP back in 2009 after the release in 2008 and use 93octane or better. The World Challenge cars are at 390BHP yet require 100 octane and are basically full race. We had been asked how could you get 360BHP out of the 3,4DFI back in 2009.... Its simple as Porsche tunes cars as they want to market their engines etc for years after. The 991 3.4 was at 350BHP so maybe now it makes more sense ,310BHP in the 3.4 BoxsterS to 345BHP as it was in the software. Yes there was air filter changes and intake routing yet this was not specific to the increase as in 2009 was sufficient to generate 480BHP in the 3.8X51 when transplanted and tuned correctly for racing.

    This opens up to another subject about bolt ons and simple engineering ......

    Best,
    Scott
    Last edited by Softronic; 07-17-2019 at 07:28 AM. Reason: BHP
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    I set my front toe as close as I could get it to 0 today so the car is now driveble. Based on Apex1's "street setting" recommendation of 12 clicks out I set off for my first test drive. I was honestly very surprised. The car genuinely feels more compliant and supple on the bumpier roads around here. A tad more bouncy but I'm very happy based on my first short drive. Can't wait to get a proper alignment done so I can really get into it.

    The exhaust with just the competition headers installed is quieter than I expected (probably a good thing). The stock mufflers do their job well. It is noticably louder and the tone is much improved, though. I'm pretty happy with them. A valved muffler system is definitely in the eventual future, though. Oh, and no check engine light! The relatively cheap "defoulers" I found are working so far.


    Quote Originally Posted by Softronicicon View Post
    This opens up to another subject about bolt ons and simple engineering ......

    Best,
    Scott
    Thanks for the info Scott. I plan to own this car for a while so I'm sure I'll come back around to tuning at some point. Suspension, brakes and such are taking priority for now.

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    I changed my transmission fluid yesterday evening, it's really a very easy DIY job. I went with 3 qts of Red Line 75w90ns. I had a bit of standard RL 75w90 from another vehicle that I used to supplement the final .2 qts.

    If you are interested in the cheapest and easiest way to get your new fluid into the transmission, run down to your local Walmart and pick up a 1-gallon sprayer for about $5. Remove the tip, fill it up with your fluid, pressurize, and go! I zip tied the trigger down and I was full in a couple minutes hands free. Easiest transmission fluid change I've ever done!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods-img_20190718_193637_1563542643369-jpg  

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    Re: 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods

    Great idea on the pressure fill hack. Thanks for sharing!

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Best regards,
    Croc'ed
    Metro NY PCA Deputy Chief DE Instructor

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    Re: 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods

    I had my suspension redone 6 months down the road, to include the Elephant toe links, slightly more front camber, and the alignment. In the rear, lowered Caymans do have an alignment issue with toe in adjustments. That is the reason for the adjustable toe link and a lock out plate for the OEM toe adjuster. Simply not enough twist to push out the OEM toe link for 12 to 14 minutes of toe in in the rear when sitting level at a lowered ride height. If you have a solid thrust puck with caster setting (8.5-9.0) and wheelbase adjuster in the rear, the solid puck helps control the toe in and out to a small degree, but it also helps control forward and aft motion of almost 3 inches at the rear wheels according to my installer.

    That camber alignment should do you well. You can then build your tire footprint around those camber adjustments to refine the f to r roll balance. I now use 255/35/18's f and 275/35/18 in the rear on all three sets of wheels and tires. Michelin PS4's, RE71R's and Hoosier A7's.
    Last edited by Apex1; 08-16-2019 at 09:33 AM.
    2007 SC, Bi Xenon, roof rack, red tail light kit, Ohlins R&T, Tarett Cup LCA's f&r, Tarett GT sway bars, down links, Elephant toe & bump steer links f&r, r toe locker plates, f frame camber slotted mounts, Pedro's TechnoBrace, Racing Dynamics f strut brace, Function First orange motor mount insert, Numeric short shifter&cables, GT3 throttle body & Agency Power Plenum, EVOMS V-flow Intake, Milltek Muffler & tips, GT2 brake ducts f&r, Signature SV104 forged monoblock Black Chrome Powder coated 18 race wheels, RE71R's tires, Forged monoblock Titan 7 TS-5/ Hoosier A7's, LN deep 2 Qt sump & skid plate, Porsche Motor Sports AOS.

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    Re: 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods

    Just completed the install of a 3rd radiator in my 987.2 just in time for Porsche Fest in 2 weeks at Summit Point. This thread prompted me to do it. It's not difficult as there are many you tube videos showing the install. I ordered the OEM radiator and suggest assembling it including the rubber air duct before attaching it to the car. CaymanRegister has a good write up by GreenFrog https://www.caymanregister.org/showthread.php?t=34871 and this is the video I followed https://youtu.be/whBfFRNwLmc

    I took the advice of GreenFrog and my mechanic to drain all coolant. Refilled it with Pentofrost E (8113106) and a UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit. I picked up six 1.5L bottles of coolant from NAPA and diluted 1:1 with distilled H2O. After burping I had about 800ml of the 1:1 mix left over. The kit from Suncoasticon (PK987C2RAD) had extra hardware (bolts and clips) and wasted time trying to sort it out. I should have listed to the YT video more closely as extra hardware is mentioned (faint audio in the video). The video shows the removal of the fixing plate (98750571900) by threading a screw into it and yanking it. I used a hook and pushed from the other side with my hand. Not difficult. The hardest part of the job was screwing in the screw behind the side markers. One last learning is to make sure that when reattaching the bumper that the rubber duct on the radiator mates properly with the center air intake duct in the bumper. To monitor temps get an OBDII scanner.

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    Re: 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods

    Hyrax- Just looked at my OEM wheels that I reinstalled today with 18 mm spacers in f and 23 mm spacers in the rear. Looks terrific and even fits without rubbing. The key here is using 35 sidewalls, not 40 or 45, which are harder to fit under the fender arches. So, that is the grouping I would suggest you order, rather than 10mm f and 18 mm r spacers from a previous post. Much more aggressive with OEM 57 offset 8 in f and 43 offset and 9 in r wheels.

    You can certainly change the Ohlin setting of 12 clicks from stiff, to your own liking. I just gave you a starting point. Try using 12 f and 14 r clicks from stiff on the Ohlins. The difference f to r is due to shorter springs with 400 lbs/in. You need a little more compression/rebound settings to keep them compliant yet have the full range of spring travel for your daily work. I used 3f and 8r in my last autocross event and found the rear sagging out of the corners with my Hoosier A7's. I should have used 5f and 7r to accomplish what I needed at that event.

    From a Rennlist autocross competition thread from Sturgus about setup of 987, he uses a calculation with the wt of the car over the f and r wheels, also the polar motion and the engine position to determine the correct spring rates should be 350 lbs/in f and 510 lbs/in r. This means that the Ohlins are slightly oversprung in f and undersprung in the rear thus the two different golden knob adjustments f to r by 2 clicks. So, back to your description of how the initial 12 click from stiff setting felt to you, a little bouncy. So just 2 clicks stiffer in front to 10 and leave the r's at 12 should give you a compliant ride without the bouncy motion.
    Last edited by Apex1; 08-16-2019 at 09:57 AM.
    2007 SC, Bi Xenon, roof rack, red tail light kit, Ohlins R&T, Tarett Cup LCA's f&r, Tarett GT sway bars, down links, Elephant toe & bump steer links f&r, r toe locker plates, f frame camber slotted mounts, Pedro's TechnoBrace, Racing Dynamics f strut brace, Function First orange motor mount insert, Numeric short shifter&cables, GT3 throttle body & Agency Power Plenum, EVOMS V-flow Intake, Milltek Muffler & tips, GT2 brake ducts f&r, Signature SV104 forged monoblock Black Chrome Powder coated 18 race wheels, RE71R's tires, Forged monoblock Titan 7 TS-5/ Hoosier A7's, LN deep 2 Qt sump & skid plate, Porsche Motor Sports AOS.

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    Re: 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods

    Quote Originally Posted by jdg View Post
    Just completed the install of a 3rd radiator in my 987.2 just in time for Porsche Fest in 2 weeks at Summit Point. This thread prompted me to do it. It's not difficult as there are many you tube videos showing the install. I ordered the OEM radiator and suggest assembling it including the rubber air duct before attaching it to the car. CaymanRegister has a good write up by GreenFrog https://www.caymanregister.org/showthread.php?t=34871 and this is the video I followed https://youtu.be/whBfFRNwLmc
    Thank you for all of the great information on the install. I will definitely be doing this mod in the future so I'll be referring back to it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Apex1 View Post
    I had my suspension redone 6 months down the road, to include the Elephant toe links, slightly more front camber, and the alignment. In the rear, lowered Caymans do have an alignment issue with toe in adjustments. That is the reason for the adjustable toe link and a lock out plate for the OEM toe adjuster. Simply not enough twist to push out the OEM toe link for 12 to 14 minutes of toe in in the rear when sitting level at a lowered ride height. If you have a solid thrust puck with caster and wheelbase adjuster in the rear, the solid puck helps control the toe in and out to a small degree, but it also helps control forward and aft motion of almost 3 inches at the rear wheels according to my installer.

    That camber alighment should do you well. You can then build your tire footprint around those camber adjustments to refine the f to r roll balance. I now use 255/35/18's f and 275/35/18 in the rear on all thee sets of wheels and tires. Michelin PS4's, RE71R's and Hoosier A7's.
    Thanks again for your endless help in this thread. I'll find out tomorrow to what extent we can perfect my alignment specs with my current setup. A neighbor of mine works at a local Mercedes dealership and offered to let me bring my car in and we'll do the alignment on their equipment.

    Quote Originally Posted by Apex1 View Post
    Hyrax- Just looked at my OEM wheels that I reinstalled today with 18 mm spacers in f and 23 mm spacers in the rear. Looks teriffic and even fits without rubbing. The key here is using 35 sidewalls, not 40 or 45, which are harder to fit under the fender arches. So, that is the grouping I would suggest you order, rather than 10mm f and 18 mm r spacers from a previous post. Much more aggessive with OEM 57 offset 8 in f and 43 offset and 9 in r wheels.

    You can certainly change the Ohlin setting of 12 clicks from stiff, to your own liking. I just gave you a starting point that I find works for my setup on the street.
    Good info about the spacers, I was thinking about them the other day actually. I definitely will start playing with the settings soon, I set it to 12 to see what comfort level that provided and I was very happy with it.


    I just went around and measured my car and I did a damn good job of setting my initial ride height, apparently! Here are some measurements and data in case it helps anyone in the future. All of these numbers are measured from the center of the wheel to the fender lip. I just used a tape measure for this part and it is not perfectly accurate, but close enough.


    Initial measurements (stock suspension non-PASM):
    FL - 14 12/16 in
    FR -14 12/16 in
    RL - 15 6/16 in
    RR - 15 6/16 in

    Current measurements (Ohlins, taken after ~90mi of driving):
    FL - 13 10/16 in
    FR - 13 10/16 in
    RL - 14 5/16 in
    RR - 14 5/16 in

    I set the Ohlins up to their exact recommended specifications in the instructions. 2mm of preload, 59mm of space between the lock ring and height ring in the front, 105mm of space in the rear. I used a Bosch laser measure to set these. In hindsight, I also should have used this to measure the height of the car initially.

    According to Ohlins, this should have lowered the car ~20mm all around compared to the original suspension. I ended up with ~28.5mm drop in the front, and ~27mm drop in the rear. I am very glad, at least, that my side to side numbers are even. I am also pretty close to the 30mm drop you recommended, Apex1.

    Do you happen to know the difference in height F to R you have for rake? I think that, going forward, I am going to adjust height by using my laser measure from level ground to the highest point in each fender well. I should be able to get it pretty even that way and adjust rake. Eventually I will take it somewhere to get corner balanced.

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    Re: 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods

    More data and I standardized how I am measuring ride height from the ground using my laser measure. I center my laser measure with the center of the wheel and set it on the ground. I take the fender measurement from directly above that location using a straight edge with a level on top. I realize because of wheel/tire differences, pressure, and wear this is really not an accurate figure for others to compare against but is useful for my own approximate adjustments. Here is how it came out:

    FL - .651m
    FR - .654m
    RL - .678m
    RR - .678m

    Pretty consistent and this measurement should be more accurate compared to eyeballing with a tape measure.

    Below are my rake measurements (these are based on the center wheel to fender measurements of the post above).

    Percentage of height
    Stock: 14.75/15.375 = .959
    Current 13.625/14.3125 = .952

    Actual rake F to R
    Stock: 15.875mm
    Current: 17.4625mm

    Apex1, I found a post of yours from 09/26/17 while reading up on this subject. At the time you measured F340mm R355mm from center of hub to fender, a 15mm difference.

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    Re: 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods

    I find that with a little less rake, I have more bit out of the corners. My setup now is 325mm f and 340mm r. Still 15mm difference, so the spring sag was equal front and rear. I will have the car re aligned in a couple of months to include -3.0 camber f and -2.5 r. I will also have them check the corner balance again to make sure each corner sag was about the same and reduce the rake/ride height 5 mm in the rear for a 10 mm difference. Attached is a picture of 18mm and 23mm spacers with OEM wheels and Michelin MP4S 255/35/18 f and 275/35/18 r.

    This is another role for the Cayman, which it does very well. Pic's 3&4 show track wheels and Hoosier A-7's. Pic's 5&6 show Signature SV-104 with RE71R's. Both Hoosiers A7's and RE71R's are 255/35/18 f and 275/35/18 R.

    987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods-dsc_0010-jpg 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods-dsc_0007-jpg 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods-dsc_0016-jpg 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods-dsc_0012-jpg 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods-dsc_0057-jpg 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods-fullsizeoutput_2df8-jpg
    Last edited by Apex1; 08-16-2019 at 10:01 AM.
    2007 SC, Bi Xenon, roof rack, red tail light kit, Ohlins R&T, Tarett Cup LCA's f&r, Tarett GT sway bars, down links, Elephant toe & bump steer links f&r, r toe locker plates, f frame camber slotted mounts, Pedro's TechnoBrace, Racing Dynamics f strut brace, Function First orange motor mount insert, Numeric short shifter&cables, GT3 throttle body & Agency Power Plenum, EVOMS V-flow Intake, Milltek Muffler & tips, GT2 brake ducts f&r, Signature SV104 forged monoblock Black Chrome Powder coated 18 race wheels, RE71R's tires, Forged monoblock Titan 7 TS-5/ Hoosier A7's, LN deep 2 Qt sump & skid plate, Porsche Motor Sports AOS.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Apex1 View Post
    I find that with a little less rake, I have more bit out of the corners. My setup now is 325mm f and 340mm r. Still 15mm difference, so the spring sag was equal front and rear. I will have the car re aligned in a couple of months to include -3.0 camber f and -2.6 r. I will also have them check the corner balance again to make sure each corner sag was about the same and reduce the rake/ride height 5 mm in the rear for a 10 mm difference. Attached is a picture of 18mm and 23mm spacers with OEM wheels and Michelin MP4S 255/35/18 f and 275/35/18 r.

    This is another role for the Cayman, which it does very well.
    Looks beautiful!

    I got my initial alignment done today. Not perfect but enough to not destroy my tires haha.

    I discovered not enough shims came with my kit to get me anywhere near -2.7. I got to -2.25 in the front and -2.2 in the rear so I am pretty even all around for now. -12 toe in the rear, 0 out front.

    Those caster pucks are a pain in the *** to adjust. I also apparently overtorqued one side so I am going to have to order a new bolt and nut and redo it. If anyone has recommendations on the easiest way to adjust those I'm all ears...

    How do you go about measuring your ride height out of curiosity? Like what tools and method.

    I am going to do some driving and let things settle. I'll adjust ride height and get it where I want it. Then I'll order and add more shims and get the alignment set nicely for my first track day in the Cayman (hopefully next month).

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hyrax View Post
    I changed my transmission fluid yesterday evening, it's really a very easy DIY job. I went with 3 qts of Red Line 75w90ns. I had a bit of standard RL 75w90 from another vehicle that I used to supplement the final .2 qts
    I'm about to do the same job on my 987.2 boxster S and have not been able to fine good directions to go by, would you mind providing a few details about the manual transmission fluid change you did?

    It looks like the suspension brace removal for the 987.2 should be the same as the 987.1 so I assume you need to have the rear wheels at full droop to not affect your alignment?

    Are the drain and fill holes in the same place as 987.1s have pictured or are they in different locations?

    What torx head or Allen key size did you use?

    Did you fill up to the fill hole, or 3mm below the fill hole?

    Any torque specs different for the plugs on a 987.2?

    Did you replace the washers on the plugs or reuse them?

    Thank you for any help you can offer.

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    Re: 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods

    Quote Originally Posted by Kirinichiban View Post
    I'm about to do the same job on my 987.2 boxster S and have not been able to fine good directions to go by, would you mind providing a few details about the manual transmission fluid change you did?

    It looks like the suspension brace removal for the 987.2 should be the same as the 987.1 so I assume you need to have the rear wheels at full droop to not affect your alignment?

    Are the drain and fill holes in the same place as 987.1s have pictured or are they in different locations?

    What torx head or Allen key size did you use?

    Did you fill up to the fill hole, or 3mm below the fill hole?

    Any torque specs different for the plugs on a 987.2?

    Did you replace the washers on the plugs or reuse them?

    Thank you for any help you can offer.
    I'm happy to help as much as I can. I'll run through your questions in order.

    Yes, those need to be dropped in order to remove the support plate. I honestly don't know if this affects your alignment. Maybe someone else can chime in. I was getting an alignment shortly after the fluid change and I didn't think about that being an issue.

    The drain plug is right on the bottom, the fill plug is on the driver's side on the left side of the axle. They are both allen keys (10mm? iirc).

    I filled up to the hole.

    I used the standard gutentight torque... Not sure what the spec is but I'm sure not much.

    Resused everything that was there with a quick wipe of a cloth.

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    Thanks so much! Yeah everything I find is for either the 987.1 or PDK, so it was great to find your thread here as I'm also prepping my car for HPDEs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirinichiban View Post
    Thanks so much! Yeah everything I find is for either the 987.1 or PDK, so it was great to find your thread here as I'm also prepping my car for HPDEs.
    It's very easy to do and generally the same as the directions I read online. I think the difference was the earlier cars had the fill plug on the other side. Good luck!

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    Re: 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods

    Quote Originally Posted by Apex1 View Post
    Hyrax- Just looked at my OEM wheels that I reinstalled today with 18 mm spacers in f and 23 mm spacers in the rear. Looks teriffic and even fits without rubbing. The key here is using 35 sidewalls, not 40 or 45, which are harder to fit under the fender arches. So, that is the grouping I would suggest you order, rather than 10mm f and 18 mm r spacers from a previous post. Much more aggessive with OEM 57 offset 8 in f and 43 offset and 9 in r wheels.
    Apex, did you go with extended wheel bolts, and from where? They seem to be pretty expensive, seems like studs should be a lot cheaper.

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    Re: 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods

    ECS sells the spacers and correct length bolts as a kit. I like the clean look of bolts rather than bare threaded studs sticking out.
    Last edited by Apex1; 08-16-2019 at 10:03 AM.
    2007 SC, Bi Xenon, roof rack, red tail light kit, Ohlins R&T, Tarett Cup LCA's f&r, Tarett GT sway bars, down links, Elephant toe & bump steer links f&r, r toe locker plates, f frame camber slotted mounts, Pedro's TechnoBrace, Racing Dynamics f strut brace, Function First orange motor mount insert, Numeric short shifter&cables, GT3 throttle body & Agency Power Plenum, EVOMS V-flow Intake, Milltek Muffler & tips, GT2 brake ducts f&r, Signature SV104 forged monoblock Black Chrome Powder coated 18 race wheels, RE71R's tires, Forged monoblock Titan 7 TS-5/ Hoosier A7's, LN deep 2 Qt sump & skid plate, Porsche Motor Sports AOS.

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    Re: 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods

    I like studs for ease of wheel swaps...

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    Re: 987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods

    I just installed a front tower brace. I certainly can feel the positive effects, as my car is more planted in downhill corners, turnin and braking in front. Racing Dynamics, $165.00 plus shipping.

    Hyrax- you can think of this front brace as the counter to the Pedro's TechnoBrace to help control the rear frame rails. I think the Schnell brace ups control factor here by having two support brackets attached to the frame rails rather than a single bolt of the Pedro's brace. Both of these braces f and r help remove torque/twist associated with road compression/rebound transmitted through the suspension parts. I found that as I increased the lateral grip by using wider wheels and stickier tires, I needed more control of the suspension attachment points shock towers/frame rails to counter the increased side torque being produced.
    Last edited by Apex1; 08-16-2019 at 10:25 AM.
    2007 SC, Bi Xenon, roof rack, red tail light kit, Ohlins R&T, Tarett Cup LCA's f&r, Tarett GT sway bars, down links, Elephant toe & bump steer links f&r, r toe locker plates, f frame camber slotted mounts, Pedro's TechnoBrace, Racing Dynamics f strut brace, Function First orange motor mount insert, Numeric short shifter&cables, GT3 throttle body & Agency Power Plenum, EVOMS V-flow Intake, Milltek Muffler & tips, GT2 brake ducts f&r, Signature SV104 forged monoblock Black Chrome Powder coated 18 race wheels, RE71R's tires, Forged monoblock Titan 7 TS-5/ Hoosier A7's, LN deep 2 Qt sump & skid plate, Porsche Motor Sports AOS.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Apex1 View Post
    ECS sells the spacers and correct length bolts as a kit. I like the clean look of bolts rather than bare threaded studs sticking out.
    Quote Originally Posted by joshuaj View Post
    I like studs for ease of wheel swaps...
    Studs are definitely easier I think haha. We'll see I'm going to look back into it later. I spent my spacer budget on a new center radiator...

    Quote Originally Posted by Apex1 View Post
    I just installed a front tower brace. I certainly can feel the positive effects, as my car is more planted in downhill corners, turnin and braking in front. Racing Dynamics, $165.00 plus shipping.

    Hyrax- you can think of this front brace as the counter to the Pedro's TechnoBrace to help control the rear frame rails. I think the Schnell brace ups control factor here by having two support brackets attached to the frame rails rather than a single bolt of the Pedro's brace. Both of these braces f and r help remove torque/twist associated with road compression/rebound transmitted through the suspension parts. I found that as I increased the lateral grip by using wider wheels and stickier tires, I needed more control of the suspension attachment points shock towers/frame rails to counter the increased side torque being produced.
    Looks like a great mod certainly! Braces are one of the mods I'll be doing later on.

    The other day I installed fresh rotors on front and rear, and Ferodo DS 1.11 pads. These things are definitely not quiet but should perform great. They have a hell of a bite and not bad when cold. Went with standard rotors for now to see how they hold up, maybe I'll upgrade to Girodiscs or something like that in the future.

    I also replaced one of my Numeric cables as I was getting binding in second gear. This new cable resolved my issues and the shift is super crisp now.

    I'll be out at Thunderhill West this coming Sunday. Still a lot to do before that day and it is supposed to be quite hot (100+).

    In preparation for that heat I decided to take a shot on Pelican's center radiator kit. I couldn't find any confirmation that it'll fit the 987.2 but for the price I figured I'd try and fit it even if it requires a little modification. My only concern is the hoses being the wrong size. If it doesn't work I'll just take the opportunity to clean out my other radiators haha.

    I also have some Castrol CSF to flush out my brake fluid with, I need to install the extra spacers for my front LCAs and do another alignment, and I need to get my ride height set correctly. Super excited to get our there, Thunderhill West, while short, looks fairly technical and fun.

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