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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello All,

New Cayman owner and new the forum.

3 weeks ago I purchased this 06 Cayman off Ebay.

cayman1_zps4c499882.jpg cayman4_zps27148482.jpg cayman11_zps2a843120 (1).jpg cayman35_zps43b6d66b.jpg cayman29_zps10d493be.jpg

The adventure started about a year a when I decided it was about time I bought a sports car. I wanted a nice car that I would be nice to drive around town and on occasion tear up the track on track days. I've never been a big Porsche fan but as whittled cars off the list of possibility's the Cayman was the one left over. I found this one on Ebay about a month ago and knew it was the one. I was little nervous buying a car off Ebay but it seems like all turned out well and it has definitely converted me into a Porsche Fan. This car is perfectly tame while driving around town but as soon as you mash on the stupid pedal it goes like a stabbed rat.

The car does have 3 issues at present.

1) It does has all the rattles and clunks that these cars are famous for, annoying but not a major issue as I bought the car for performance more than comfort however I will fix the ones that I can as I get time.

2) It seems to be down on power from TPC's advertised HP numbers. For now I am attributing it to higher altitude 4k', 91 octane gas and tune, and the boost controller does not seem to be set up rite. Before I mess with anything I am going to have the car dyno'ed on Friday. I want to get a base line the way bought it.

3) I hate the front bumper on the caymans so it will get a GT3 front bumper hopefully sooner than later.

One resolved issue is getting it to pass smog. The previous owner installed a new battery resetting all the monitors prior to the sale. It was a big issue because as I did not know if it was the battery replacement or the turbo kit causing it to be rejected. After trying the STUPID driving cycle for this car several times and and a few not at all helpful calls to TPC I took it to the dealership and they where able to force the monitors and get it to pass smog.
 

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I saw this on Ebay. The seller must have wanted it gone as didn't he sell this with no reserve, the end price was pretty low considering.

As far as all the "clunks and noises" what exactly, I have had a Cayman for 6 years and on this board and don't recall it being an issue at all as I never would have stood for it. The battery is causing a fail on smog? again a new one for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yeah stupid smog. They plug into the OBD2 port and just make sure everything is working correctly however some of the things the ECU monitors requires the car to go through specific driving cycles before they start working. When you unplug the battery it resets all that. The big problem is the Porsche driving cycles are next to impossible to complete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I went ahead and did the trunk clunk fix today that made a big difference. Still a lot of rattles and squeaks to chase down but that was the biggie. I basically did the weather strip method and added some dayamat for good measure.
20150101_093845.jpg 20150101_100651.jpg

While I had the hatch apart I replaced the light bulb with a white LED, that looked so good I spent the rest of the day running all over town to find enough LED's to do the rest of the interior and it was worth it. getting rid of the dingy yellow stock incandescent bulbs for the white LED's made the car look 5 years younger. I highly recommend upgrading to LEDS! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just got back from the dyno. Max WHP 373 max torque 347, that puts engine hp around 425ish. Almost exactly what I had guessed it to be. You can see in the cart a significant drop in HP and torque at 4200 RPM when it hits about 4.5 Pounds of boost, I could feel this drop in HP while driving under load. My guess is it is due to a little knock and the ECU correcting for it.

20150102_121313.jpg

1/2/15
elev 4400'
temp 37f
91 octane fuel
91 octane tune
4.5 psi boost

Greddy boost controller settings

set.........12
gain........23
set gain...23
warning...60
limiter.....8

After the dyno I went to the only gas station in town that sells 93 just to find out they no longer sell 93 so filled up with shell 91 and a bottle of NOS octane booster that should have me sitting around 94. I loaded the 93 octane tune and after a quick drive I'm guessing I picked up 30 - 40 hp and the dip seems to gone. I'm going to play with the boost controller a bit and take it back for another dyno run next week.
 

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Congratulations on your purchase, and thank you for sharing your info, mods, fixes .. That's the soul of spots like this, love to see the numbers and solutions that work out.
Apologies if I've overlooked it but are you sporting an ECU tune from TPC or another source?
Does your car have a LSD or TBD?
Also .. Would a reduction in wheel size alter (improve) what performance you do have in being transmitted?
Asking because I really don't know, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A little history behind the car. The original owner bought it new in January of 07. He lost the car in a bankruptcy or repossession this year. The second owner bought it at an auction to flip it. He owned it for about a month before selling it to me. Because of all that I have very little of the cars history. It has been fun figuring all this out but it has been a little frustrating at the same time. The up shot is the car seems to have been very well cared for.

The tune is TPC and other than a small oil leak that seems to be coming from the turbo (will look into that more soon) and the issues I had with their customer service department it seems to be a good kit and a good tune. The issues I've been having seem to be just fuel and settings.

It seems to have a stock open diff. An LSD or TBD is on the wish list but a little pricey so it's a little far down the list.

As far as smaller tires goes they would not increase power of the car but they would lower the final drive ratio, i.e. slightly better acceleration but lower top speed. I do want to get a second set of tires and rims for track use so I don't beat beat up my nice rims and am looking at probably will go smaller, 18's or 19's
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So the rattles and squeaks are starting to drive me nuts! After doing the trunk clunk fix and a few other small things I moved to the front trunk area. I found the plastic trim along the fenders and the bumper is just held on with Velcro ( looks like from the factory). The sticky tape on the Velcro stopped sticking long ago so all those pieces where loose and rattling around. They are just for aesthetics and basically dead weight so for now I'm going to leave them off along with the battery cover and the two side pieces. It doesn't look bad and gives better access to the battery area for maintenance and cleaning. It looks like no one has cleaned inside that area in years. If I ever show or sell the car I'll get some new Velcro and put all that stuff back in. The other thing I found is the floor of the storage area basically a big drum. Thump that with your finger and its pretty loud and resonates through half the car so I pulled out the carpet and covered the floor board with dynamat. All that along with the trunk clunk fix has made a huge difference. Now instead of a whole car clunk when going over cracks and seams in the road its more of just tire noise that you would expect, still kinda loud but with low profile high performance tires but that's just the nature of the beast. The problems is now I can hear the rattles and squeaks that where masked by the whole car clunk and I think that's worse than the whole car clunk. One seems to be coming from the drivers door, one from the passenger A pillar, and one from the back of the car that I haven't been able to locate yet but I'll work them as I get a chance.

The good news is I've had a few days driving around on the 93 octane tune and its whole new car. I have the boost controller low setting at 4.5 psi and the high setting at 6 psi. Going in for another dyno run this afternoon and I guessing I'll get around 390 whp with the low setting and 410 whp with the high setting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just got back from the dyno with the 93 tune and 91 octane + booster and the numbers where slightly lower than I expected but it was 20 degrees warmer that may have cost me a few hp. The dyno boost-o-meter was reading about a half pound less that the Greddy. At 4.5 psi(red) it put out 381 whp and at 5.5 psi(blue) it put out 402. The disappointing part was the dip in hp at full boost was sill there and almost identical on all 3 pulls, must be the tune.
20150105_150515.jpg
 

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This is very interesting, thanks for sharing! :cheers:

The "dip" you refer to is really a plateau on the HP; can you really feel it when actually driving the car? I would think you pass through that short RPM region so quickly it would hardly be noticeable.

I think you might be seeing the result of the turbo hitting its boost ceiling at about the same time the torque on the motor is hitting its plateau. It might take breathing changes (intake and exhaust) to change that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I could feel it with 91 tune, at least I knew something was going on around 4k, there seemed to be a small pause or slow down in the increasing acceleration so I wasn't surprised when I saw the first chart for the first pull. It seemed to go away when I loaded the 93 tune, it felt like the increasing acceleration was more consistent so I was really surprised to see it still there. its not a big deal, I just wanted the line to look prettier :crazy:
 

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... I just wanted the line to look prettier
TPC "flat lined" my torque curve when they updated my programming. :) The HP graph also got prettier, and linear.

I'm running less boost than you and (by choice) no Greddy, but it's on a 380 crank HP 3.8X51.

Good programming should be able to smooth your output.
 

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Congrats on the car. Looks and sounds quite beastly, but how does it compare to the beast behind it in the garage? Best of luck sorting it out.
 

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Not sure if you replaced the frunk light incandescent light bulb to LED, but be careful to double check it because I read on the forum that Suncoast even warned 987 owners to not replace the frunk light with a LED as it doesn't shut entirely off and drains the battery (due to lack of resistor?). At first I didn't have a problem with the LED replacement; I put my iphone in there with the video recording on to check that the light would turn off. But later on, I checked again and it didn't but I didn't find out until too late and it drained the battery.

Not sure, but you might also consider getting a DAS SCHILD for the underside of the Frunk hood might help with noise wile protecting it from the cargo too.

I went ahead and did the trunk clunk fix today that made a big difference. Still a lot of rattles and squeaks to chase down but that was the biggie. I basically did the weather strip method and added some dayamat for good measure.
View attachment 54578 View attachment 54579

While I had the hatch apart I replaced the light bulb with a white LED, that looked so good I spent the rest of the day running all over town to find enough LED's to do the rest of the interior and it was worth it. getting rid of the dingy yellow stock incandescent bulbs for the white LED's made the car look 5 years younger. I highly recommend upgrading to LEDS! ;)
 

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I highly recommend you ship the car to TPC or Protomotive (they're familiar with TPC and they work together too as per my understanding). TPC is a bit far from you but Protomotive is just across your state border. They can diagnose the car and tune it for you.

You can start by giving them a call.

I wouldn't let anybody touch the car including the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the great info and suggestions guys :cheers:

Congrats on the car. Looks and sounds quite beastly, but how does it compare to the beast behind it in the garage? Best of luck sorting it out.
The beast behind it is the previous owners.:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I highly recommend you ship the car to TPC or Protomotive (they're familiar with TPC and they work together too as per my understanding). TPC is a bit far from you but Protomotive is just across your state border. They can diagnose the car and tune it for you.
I'll definitely look into Protomotive. I have a few track days planned near there anyway.
 
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