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I figured I'd throw this in a new thread... hoping it gets more attention that way. :)

Re: Base Stereo Upgrade - Thanks! Hi - you mention the cayman is not prewired for the additional speakers in the back and does not have the "baskets" to hold the rear speakers. I am assuming this applies to my Cayman as well. I have a '07 Cayman - base model.

Given the above is true, how does one add rear speakers? I recently had a AVIC-X920BT installed. It sounds great, but I would like to balance the sound stage by adding rear speakers. Having a shop run wires to the rear shouldn't be a problem (I hope!), but what about mounting the speakers?

It looks like the rear takes 4" (100mm) speakers. Any recommedations on what type of speaker to supplement the stock speakers (more low-range woofers, mid-range woofers, etc.)? Or is this personal preference?

Why do you say "you will need to replace the front door speakers..." ?

Thanks for any help anyone can offer!!!

Josh


Originally Posted by RichP
Search around here, another member was researching the same thing. Unfortuntately, your cayman is not prewired for the additional speakers in the back. It also does not have the "baskets" to hold the rear speakers.

So, basically, you will need to replace the front door speakers, and run wires to the rear for the rear speakers. Honestly, not THAT big a deal, just more panels to remove and a little more work. Especially if you are going with the Pioneer Headunit, which should put out enough power to run the speakers adequately.
 

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Re: "Unfortuntately, your cayman is not prewired for the additional speakers in the back. It also does not have the "baskets" to hold the rear speakers."

For my 08 Cayman with base stereo system, the part about wiring is true but you do not need "baskets" to mount standard 4" rear speakers. I had one (incompetent) installer tell me that he would have to make brackets, but that is soooo untrue. If you think about it, how could it be true when Porsche includes rear speakers in the higher packages, yet there is no part number for a "basket." If you remove the carpeted engine cover, you can verify this by feeling the mounting pegs under the speaker grills. The mounting pegs are already drilled to receive screws and standard 4" speakers mount to them without modification. And that is what my installer told me when he put in my 4" Boston Acoustics.
 

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Nobody touched the front or dash speakers or their wiring. All we had to do was plug in the wiring harness from Euromotorspeed. If you contact Euromotorspeed, they will send you copies of their instructions and that will help you understand the process.

Believe me, changing the head unit sounds so scary but in reality it is very easy for an experienced installer. Seems like most of the people on this site are upgrading their Bose, and that seems a lot harder. I'm telling you, six hours after bringing the car to the shop, it was all done and working and the installer was all smiles. And that time included prewiring it for a rear sub and an amp in the frunk. And that was a guy who had never worked on a Porsche (but he had 15 years' experience with other cars).

My install cost $605 to the shop for labor, wiring, and the 4" Boston Acoustics rear speakers, plus $250 to Euromotorspeed for the bezel and wiring harness, plus the cost of the head unit. The labor was money well spent, as I would make myself crazy trying to keep the wires straight and the installer didn't even break a sweat. And it all works just great!!!
 

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Looking to install new speakers in the rear of my Cayman.

Can't work out how to prise them on.

From soem exploratory photos it would look like they are riveted in place!!!

Sorry for the clarity but this is max zoom out and obviously I am taking them in very confiend spaces unable to see what I am actually shooting.

IF anyone recognises these as something different please let me know... I think I could end up prising off and breaking them... :(







 

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Seems like you are making this more difficult than you have to. Your pictures show the underside of the speaker grilles. Removing the rivets would only remove the speaker grilles and there is no need to do that. There is nothing for you to remove. Simply screw the new speakers to the existing mounting pegs -- one of the pegs is shown clearly in each photo and there is a mate on the other side just out of view of the photo. The pegs already have holes in them to receive the screws. Remember, the speakers face upward underneat the preexisting grilles, and therefore you will be screwing them into place from below the grilles. You don't need to take off the grilles to do this. In fact, I would think that taking off the grilles would necessitate a lot of hard work. The hardest part of the install is getting off the trim panels to access the mounting pegs so you have enough room to screw in the speakers from below the panels.
 

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The hardest part of the install is getting off the trim panels to access the mounting pegs so you have enough room to screw in the speakers from below the panels.
Ah ha. I had assume the grill popped off and you dropped it in, but I understand that you not fix from the undersides. So what's the trick for getting the trim off then? I undid one obvious screw, but the trim panel is still trapped by the metal strip along the rear engine bay bulk head and probably something else.

I think I read somewhere that K-Man S may have been writing this removal up in an article.

Thanks for your guidance.
 

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About removing the trim - I don't know how, but you could try to contact the guy that installed my speakers. He is Al Stone at car audio/car stereo/remote start/car video dvd/car alarm::Kansas City | National Auto Sound & Security in Independence, MO. You could try contacting him by phone or e-mail, I'm sure he'll remember my car! I don't think he had any particular problems but he did mention that (a) it took a lot of disassembly, and (b) you must use plastic pry bars to avoid damaging the interior paint. He did a great job for me, no damage at all, and he did the entire install (including the AVIC and the rear speakers and also prewiring for amp and sub) in about 6-7 hours.
 

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Ah ha. I had assume the grill popped off and you dropped it in, but I understand that you not fix from the undersides. So what's the trick for getting the trim off then? I undid one obvious screw, but the trim panel is still trapped by the metal strip along the rear engine bay bulk head and probably something else.

I think I read somewhere that K-Man S may have been writing this removal up in an article.

Thanks for your guidance.
It's a bloody nuisance, but if you're game you can follow the procedure depicted in the following articles:
Rear Hatch Painted Interior Pieces PART 1 - Articles
Cayman Harness/Rollbar - Articles

The problem is the screw shown in the pic below which, even with the exposure shown, is impossible to get any kind of driver on - some people have taken a short-cut and just cut through the retaining tab on that piece, so that you can remove the speaker portion without removing all the other trim to get to it.

 

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It's a bloody nuisance, but if you're game you can follow the procedure depicted in the following articles:
Rear Hatch Painted Interior Pieces PART 1 - Articles
Is removing all of the trim as detailed in that article the only way I am going to be able to install my 4" speakers into the grills in the back of the car? I think I'd seriously consider just sticking with the speakers up front if thats the case, looks like a nightmare of a job! Any easier ways?
 

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Well with Santa dropping me off a pair of Boston Acoustics 4" (S45s) I got around to doing this mod.

I took the tactical option of cutting the tab as suggested and this saved much time.

I had to hacksaw off 2 of the 4 mounting plates on each speaker surround but they fitted neatly and a couple of self tappers put them in place. I may need to get some 4" speaker surrounds as the fixing pegs are about 5mm proud and mean the speaker hangs from the two pegs without sealing the void. Ran a couple of cables up to my Kenwood DNX7240BT (UK) HU and adjusted the controls accordingly.

I am very pleased with the ambient sound level circulating the cabin rather than the front only approach of the original poverty spec.

I am now awaiting the delivery of this KSC-SW01 underseat subwoofer to complete my ICE overhaul.
 

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Underseat subwoofer a big success.

Connected to the head unit (Kenwood DNX7240BT) with 2m RCA component cable as recommended.

Had to cut the carpet behind the pax seat to ensure I got a nice secure mounting but didn't need to take out the seat. With hindsight I may have been able to mount it onto a plastic plate that sits over a load of cabling directly beneath the seat, but clearance then may have been much more marginal and it may not have resonated so well.

So I may not have BOSE (as I did in my 997) but the sound quality is getting as close as I care to mod and for less than £200 I am very pleased.

Just need to fix the squeaky luggage compartment so it does not intrude into those "quiet" moments.
 

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Hi - Just curious how the subwoofer affects the seat height and whether the seat muffles the sound from it.

I previously tried a similar powered sub (Blaupunkt ThB-200) under the passenger's seat and wasn't happy with it. It was the smallest sub I could find at the time, but it would only fit when the seat was raised all the way up. Since my driver's seat is all the way down due to my height, it made the cockpit look weird, so I skipped the idea at the time.

The Blaupunkt was 3-3/8" tall (8.6 cm) whereas your Kenwood is 2.8" (7 cm). Any idea how much more height you save by cutting the carpet?
 

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Yes... longest response on a thread. Actually moved on to a Lotus since being a regular modder on here. Revisiting as a friend has bought a Cayman and is going through the HU upgrade connundrum. I sold the car with mods intact.

I suppose the carpet is about an inch thick but represents a permanent change. if you are careful you can take it out in one piece (rubber backed) and possibly restore it on resale.

Hi - Just curious how the subwoofer affects the seat height and whether the seat muffles the sound from it.

I previously tried a similar powered sub (Blaupunkt ThB-200) under the passenger's seat and wasn't happy with it. It was the smallest sub I could find at the time, but it would only fit when the seat was raised all the way up. Since my driver's seat is all the way down due to my height, it made the cockpit look weird, so I skipped the idea at the time.

The Blaupunkt was 3-3/8" tall (8.6 cm) whereas your Kenwood is 2.8" (7 cm). Any idea how much more height you save by cutting the carpet?
 
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