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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
07 Cayman S 136K miles

purchased at 122K miles one year ago.

last week I got a check engine light after a fast take off on a cold engine going uphill. The light illuminated and then went away quickly. I pulled over and no light and seemed to run fine. I checked the codes when i got home:
Current Fault Log
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ECU reports no current faults

Pending Fault Log
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P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

Historic Fault Log
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ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged

End of report.

I checked the oil and was at the bottom of the meter so i added a half quart. and then a few days later i got another check engine light:
Current Fault Log
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P2187: System Too Lean at Idle bank1
P2189: System Too Lean at Idle bank2

Pending Fault Log
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P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0507: Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected

Historic Fault Log
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ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged

End of report.


I thought it could be that I didn't tighten the oil cap right when i added oil so this morning I took the oil cap off and made sure it was on tight and started it up (seems to run fine, yesterday i did notice some mechanical tapping on a cold start) I wanted to clear the codes with my android reader and i did this while it was running. as soon as i cleared the codes the engine bogged down and sounded like it going to sputter out and die. I let the code reader finish and then shut it down. Turned the engine off and back and and same problem now, the rpms jump around and sound like its going to die. I drove it around my house and it seems to run okay while in motion but when coming to a stop or in neutral it does the sputtering rpm thing. any ideas where to start? Could clearing the codes while running have done something? (seems strange because ive cleared my other cars while running in Park with no issues.)

Current Fault Log
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P0507: Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
P2187: System Too Lean at Idle bank1
P2189: System Too Lean at Idle bank2

Pending Fault Log
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P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged

End of report.
 

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Coil packs are a common issue on these cars, and the vehicle will do crazy things when one goes out. You are getting misfires according to your error logs, which is what happens when coil packs go bad. The lack of the cylinder firing correctly can also cause downstream issues with the fuel mixture. In my case I was getting too rich errors until I replaced all 6 of mine myself, and then all problems were resolved.

Similar your original issue, my car could be forced into limp mode with all sorts of errors by driving it aggressively or with higher load. It would behave for longer intervals in between the issue if I drove it lightly, but still would ultimately crap out on me again after 30-50 miles of driving before I figured out the source of the issue
 

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2008 Cayman RS (my version) and non-RS 2010 GT3
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Coils are probably on the way out… ya gotta let the high idle to drop before you take off though… its the first short high idle. You “can” take off but you should not be WOT until it warms up properly… granted letting a car sit and get to operating temps isn’t good either.. the whole idea of high idle is getting the cats to start working… all that fuel is not what your cylinder walls need tho… so, the short 1-2 minute warm up and take it easy until she’s warm..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yup, normally i wait until high idle to drop. Still a little concerned about clearing the codes causing some sort of other issue. Seems strange to me that it would just start sputtering about right when they cleared. Any other ideas before i have to take the wheels off and mess with the coils? I will change the spark plugs too if have the coils off.
 

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Regarding the plugs, multiple extensions of differing lengths will keep your approach to a plug deep in the head more on square even with the universal joint on it. This will reduce the opportunities to snap one, my apology if you already knew but one member is dealing with a stuck third of a plug right now, better to repeat the info. Use penetrant if they have been in a while and use progressive force easy is better.
 

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thanks for the info. yes this will be the first time doing plugs on this porsche.
Buy a complete set of coil packs to install at the same time. There is no additional labor required and if they're the originals at 136k miles - they're done. Put new ones in (use OE, Bosch or Beru) and you know then what the condition of them is.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got home and started it again, started fine. (no cel since i cleared it) I let it come to temp and then revved it to 2K and let off and the idle was running high (just under 1K) tried shifting it into drive and reverse and noticed some jumps in rpm . Notably when in drive it sits at 600-700, when i shift to Park it revs and settles at 900. I dont remember it doing that before. Seems like its still running a little rough too. I think coils and sparks are not a bad thing to try since i think its due anyways. is this what im looking for:? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/ignition-coil-update-kit/99760210402kt1/
 

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Older revision coil packs for 987.1 are prone to cracking. That kit looks to have the new revision part (99760210402) which is what you want. just make sure where ever you get them that they are the newer revision if you're not going with that kit specifically.
 

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What tool are you reading the faults with? Some are better than others.. and some allow monitoring things like timing and mixture (which is where I suspect your problem is..) The lean mixture reports at idle might mean the fuel pressure at the injectors isn't correct. There is also the MAF - and a good tool should let you see what the readings from the MAF are doing (plus the actual O2 sensor outputs..)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm using torque on android. Currently no cel, since reset. But I also haven't driven it much because of the rough idle. I was planning on cleaning the maf tomorrow. I'll look into what sensors are available on torque.
 

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First of all why are you checking or resetting codes with the engine running. You check codes with the ignition on but engine off and do the same to reset codes. That being said I would check the voltage back to the battery while running. It should be high 13's to 14's voltage wise. Many issues can arise from a bad alternator not supplying enough voltage. Then I would check the coils and plugs. I don't really think that you "damaged" anything by doing what you did. I'd say it is purely coincidental, but is is weird.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Yes, that was my mistake to reset the CEL while running. I cant imagine that caused any damage either. So i cant even get the car to stay running today to check voltage while running. Plugs and coils are new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I didnt inspect the coil packs carefully since i had new ones to install. I have the torx bit coming today so ill clean the MAF once that arrives but its running so bad i cant imagine that would make much of a difference. Here is the cold start from this morning.
 
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