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First of all why are you checking or resetting codes with the engine running. You check codes with the ignition on but engine off and do the same to reset codes. That being said I would check the voltage back to the battery while running. It should be high 13's to 14's voltage wise. Many issues can arise from a bad alternator not supplying enough voltage. Then I would check the coils and plugs. I don't really think that you "damaged" anything by doing what you did. I'd say it is purely coincidental, but is is weird.

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Cleaned the Maf, no change . I can keep it running with the gas pedal pressed. But when I let go it slowly dies. Rpm s get slower and slower. Is that a fuel delivery issue? Or more of a too lean situation? Strong fuel smell for sure.
A strong fuel smell usually doesn't mean lean...just the opposite. Running fat or too rich.

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Okay, finally heard from the mechanic. He says that one of the vacuum actuators is broken inside the intake and that is the reason for not running. Says there is a big vacuum leak from that and he can see pieces of the actuator broken laying on top of the motor?(if i understood him correctly) im going to google it now but does that make sense?
prices below: (he also recommended the AOS since there looks to be a leak.)
View attachment 281741
Also it seems to me that when he does the one job the other may have reduced labor because some of the labor may cross over.

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View attachment 281746


The part in the yellow box ("B" in your photo) above is the balance pipe to help balance out the two intake manifolds. It may also do some tuning of the manifolds by opening/closing a vacuum controlled valve. The blue/green box is where the vacuum actuator lives, on the side of the balance pipe. There is likely a flap type valve inside the balance pipe - and it sounds as if that and/or the vacuum actuator is broken.

it sounds as if he's removing the entire intake manifold since he lists 6 intake manifold gaskets (1 for each cylinder), this might be needed if he suspects any broken bits have gotten into the intake manifold itself. Then it sounds as if he's just going to replace the vacuum actuator.
It seems like the AOS should be easy to change at that point since it is also in the same general area. So he shouldn't be charging regular labor rate for the full job when most, if not almost all of it, will be right there.

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Visited the mechanic today, He showed me where the vacuum leak was: started the car and used a bar to keep the pedal down to keep it running. then sprayed brake cleaner (or some sort of solvent) right in between the balance tubes and the car accelerated. Then showed me the vacuum actuator that was missing the arm and thats where he believes the leak is at. I asked him why he wanted to remove the entire intake to repair that and he said because he was worried about breaking the balance tubes when he took them off. So i dont think hes worried about pieces broken off inside the intake, he just wanted to play it safe and remove the whole intake (which seems a bit excessive) he also said he would replace any vacuum lines too. I paid him and thanked him for his diagnosis. Car has been towed back to my home and I ordered a new AOS, two vacuum actuators and the six intake manifold gaskets thru pelican ( i had called the local porsche dealer and they were a few weeks out since some of the parts were not in stock, he kept saying they were in germany :) ) Anyhow at this point im planning on taking the upper balance tube out tomorrow and inspect where the leak is happening and replacing the actuators and AOS and crossing my fingers thats the issue. What do you guys think. was he over doing it by wanting to remove the entire air intake manifold?
Here's what I would recommend. Take lots of pictures during disassembly especially if you will be waiting weeks for your parts to arrive. I'd search YouTube for videos that may help you. I'd watch a few before starting disassembly.

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