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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
latest code read (these didnt show up until i disconnected the MAF and started it)

Vehicle VIN: WP0AB29877U781573
Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown
Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present

Current Fault Log
------------------
P1090: [BMW] Pre-Catalyst Fuel Trim Too Lean Bank 1


Pending Fault Log
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ECU reports no pending faults

Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
U0401: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web

End of report.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Cleaned the Maf, no change . I can keep it running with the gas pedal pressed. But when I let go it slowly dies. Rpm s get slower and slower. Is that a fuel delivery issue? Or more of a too lean situation? Strong fuel smell for sure.
 

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Cleaned the Maf, no change . I can keep it running with the gas pedal pressed. But when I let go it slowly dies. Rpm s get slower and slower. Is that a fuel delivery issue? Or more of a too lean situation? Strong fuel smell for sure.
A strong fuel smell usually doesn't mean lean...just the opposite. Running fat or too rich.

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Oh my. And oh my.

The first "Oh my" is your first video with the awful idle. The engine is obviously missing, what's a mystery is why the ECU isn't turning off the injectors for the cylinders that are miss firing. It's supposed to in order to avoid flooding. The strong fuel smell is a clue there.

Oh my #2 - that's about as bad-looking an engine compartment as I've ever seen. The air filter is no longer filtering air. The rips in it indicate it's had a rough life, and I bet the pleats are full of whatever the sandlike dust that's covering everything in the engine compartment is. You put 14,000 miles after purchasing it - and I'm guessing with no service besides oil services? At 120k miles a major service was due, and given the condition of the engine compartment, I can promise that was never done. There may also be a leak in a hose in your 4th picture in your gallery, where the hose is up against a sharp edge of what I assume is the AOS.

You need a new air filter. You should clean the engine compartment BEFORE installing the new air filter. Your MAF undoubtedly is dirty (CRC makes a specific electrical cleaner for the MAF - big box auto parts stores carry it). The AOS may have failed (it certainly wouldn't be a surprise given how the rest of the engine looks, it has obviously been ignored for a long long time..) You really should do the entire 120k mile service, but you can skip things like the serpentine belt until you have the engine running correctly again, the belt isn't causing this.

I question using Torque to read the codes. Does it have a separate Porsche module (I own it, but can't recall one), if not - Torque is only reading the OBD-II codes. In that case, there may be lots more codes stored away in the ECU that Torque simply can't read. There are also faults that the Torque probably can't reset. Since it's a 987, the tool I'd recommend is the Foxwell NT530 with Porsche module. It offers good coverage of the 987 series cars.

If it wasn't for the strong smell of fuel I'd be questioning the fuel pressure. The strong smell of fuel also brings up the possibility that an injector has failed and is leaking fuel into a cylinder.
 

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latest code read (these didnt show up until i disconnected the MAF and started it)

Vehicle VIN: WP0AB29877U781573
Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown
Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present
If this was a Porsche-specific tool, to me, this would point to a cooked ECU. Since it's a Cayman not a Boxster I wouldn't expect to hear of water flooding of the ECU unless at some time the vehicle had been involved in a flood that never got to CarFax (assuming you have a Carfax on the car.)

You haven't mentioned (that I remember) where you're located - if you did perhaps some member nearby might have a Porsche diagnostics tool and could come to do a house visit on your Cayenne.

Did you happen to keep the old plugs? And number them as you removed them? Perhaps take some closeup photos for us.

BTW - please don't use off-site albums to post photos. If your off-site album goes away for any reason your photos here will disappear making the thread useless for other people in the future who might read it (and need to learn from it.) Please DO upload your photos here. Resize them before posting so they are a maximum width of 1024, which makes it easier on people without gigabit connections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Deluge of images to follow, did not resize so apologies for those with slow connections:

thanks for the thoughtful response.

Trying to answer in the order you asked:
1.) air filter - yes, filter is horrible. The rips were from me trying to just pull the pleats apart and it was so dry rotted it just ripped.
2.) oil/filter changes done when i first took possession. Nothing else engine related, now it has new plugs/coils, cleaned MAF, brakes/rotors/fluid change.
3.) The hose was rubbing against the edge of the AOS, but is not leaking yet.
4.) Im located in So California (inland empire) i have access to a iCarsoft POR II device.
5.) I kept the old plugs but did not label them. You can see them in the photos below. not sure if its detailed enough to judge.
6.) ECU fried? thats been one of my worries after i cleared the codes and its been acting haywire since. Ive seen used ones on ebay and other places for 150$. is it simply a swap? probably needs some form of programming?
7.) as far as i know Torque doesnt have a specific Porsche mode.
8.) pulled the MAF out and cleaned it with specific maf cleaner. (photo of that below)
9.) coolant was pink and looked fine.
10.) i do have some service records and the transmission was replaced at 110K i believe. so not that long ago.

quick recap:
started as a CEL light that was a misfire but the light turned off right away and seemed fine.
Code:
Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
later that week i got a CEL for : (still seemed to be running fine)

Code:
Current Fault Log
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P2187: System Too Lean at Idle bank1
P2189: System Too Lean at Idle bank2

Pending Fault Log
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P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0507: Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
I think this when i cleared the codes while running (engine did what its doing now... so that was the first moment that it started running rough):

Code:
Current Fault Log
------------------
P0507: Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
P2187: System Too Lean at Idle bank1
P2189: System Too Lean at Idle bank2

Pending Fault Log
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P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
Changed the plugs and coils:

Code:
Current Fault Log
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ECU reports no current faults

Pending Fault Log
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P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302: Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0306: Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
disconnected MAF and started:

Code:
Current Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no current faults

Pending Fault Log
------------------
P1090: [BMW] Pre-Catalyst Fuel Trim Too Lean Bank 1

Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
U0401: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web
car was towed into a mechanic this afternoon.


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Thanks for bringing the photos on-line so to speak.

Your plugs are telling me a story of sorts. It looks like two of them have been working harder or longer than the others. From the photos, it appears the last 2 in the photo (most to the right) have significantly shorter metal center electrodes. On these 4 prong plugs - that's the part that erodes away as the plug is fired. I wonder if someone was lazy changing plugs last time and didn't do the two harder-to-reach ones? It would be better seeing them in person, but we're 3,000 miles apart so that's not happening, but the fuel mixture and temperature range on them appear OK. It looks like there are light tan deposits very thin deposits on the center ceramic of the plug. That's what is considered desirable. I can't see a big difference in the color of any one of the plugs - which would indicate a cylinder misfiring or a mixture imbalance.

If it were me - at this point I'd replace the MAF. If you don't want to pay the Porsche tax on the part - you can do a search on Bosch F 00C 262 063, or F 00C 2G2 063 - I think that might be productive. The older MAF's had an exposed sensor that could be fairly easily cleaned with the spray. The newer ones they've enclosed the sensor - and it's not as easy to clean, or on some not even possible.

Hopefully the mechanic has a Porsche diagnostics tool and can give further insight into what's really going on with your engine. Please keep us up to date.. that's what makes the forum a valuable source for learning from the misery of others.. :cautious:
 

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I might also suggest checking the battery voltage level, and/or just replacing the battery if it's more than about 4 years old or if it has ever been "dead". Voltage issues cause all kinds of errors and tail-chasing on these cars...

Also, Torque is a great little app, but really only does OBD2 stuff. Anything beyond that (which Porsche does a lot of) is not really clear on Torque, unfortunately. Believe me, I tried doing that myself... and now I have a Foxwell...
 

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U0401: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web
From your big ol post above could be a useful clue. Dr. Google says this is could be related to knock sensor or cam position sensor, which honestly kinda tracks with it missing like that and having trouble running, though I'm just a shade-tree. Certainly worth plugging a scan tool that has a Porsche-specific code database into it to verify.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Okay, finally heard from the mechanic. He says that one of the vacuum actuators is broken inside the intake and that is the reason for not running. Says there is a big vacuum leak from that and he can see pieces of the actuator broken laying on top of the motor?(if i understood him correctly) im going to google it now but does that make sense?
prices below: (he also recommended the AOS since there looks to be a leak.)
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·

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Okay, finally heard from the mechanic. He says that one of the vacuum actuators is broken inside the intake and that is the reason for not running. Says there is a big vacuum leak from that and he can see pieces of the actuator broken laying on top of the motor?(if i understood him correctly) im going to google it now but does that make sense?
prices below: (he also recommended the AOS since there looks to be a leak.)
View attachment 281741
Also it seems to me that when he does the one job the other may have reduced labor because some of the labor may cross over.

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The part in the yellow box ("B" in your photo) above is the balance pipe to help balance out the two intake manifolds. It may also do some tuning of the manifolds by opening/closing a vacuum controlled valve. The blue/green box is where the vacuum actuator lives, on the side of the balance pipe. There is likely a flap type valve inside the balance pipe - and it sounds as if that and/or the vacuum actuator is broken.

it sounds as if he's removing the entire intake manifold since he lists 6 intake manifold gaskets (1 for each cylinder), this might be needed if he suspects any broken bits have gotten into the intake manifold itself. Then it sounds as if he's just going to replace the vacuum actuator.
 
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