Planet-9 Porsche Forum banner

07 Cayman S TPC Turbo Kit - Engine beeped and blinked for about 10 secs. No codes though.

1051 Views 39 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  itsjappo
The car had multiple misfire codes so I went ahead and installed new spark plugs. NGK #2667 BKR7EIX gapped them at .028”. Cleared codes and went for a spirited drive. The car ran fine and on the way home, I heard a beep and the CEL light blinked for about 10 secs then went away. Drove her carefully home close by and scanned for codes. Showed no codes. I had the dash read the oil level meter and it showed about half full! I just ordered an oil change kit as well as an air old separator to be safe.

Do you guys know what that CEL meant? I hope I didn't damage anything with the low oil level =( I also have new set of BERU coil packs to install. Any ideas or inputs are greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
1 - 10 of 40 Posts
Turbo on a non-turbo motor 🤦‍♂️

did you install this yourself? Buy it that way? So no codes? Possibly a misfire, or knock sensor.. are the ecu’s reflashed for that brand of kit? Your probably running 5psi max, if it’s more your really a$king for problems and I’m no joking here…. So explain some details. I’ve turbocharged many cars in my life so I know and understand…. If it were my car…. You know what I’m going to say 🚘

oil: does TPC say how much more oil you’ll need to add to be on the happy full mark?
I can’t believe how many of these kits I’m seeing lately… where is TPC in this equation!?!? They should be better at CS here
I wish you best of luck… doesn’t change the fact that I don’t like turbos on these higher compression flat six motors… just be careful
  • Like
Reactions: 1
IMO, they really aren't good any any motors without commensurate changes to everything else in the lower and perhaps even conrods, pistons and more.
Agree… the motors have to first be built with lower compression.. if the turbo route is your quest, just go buy a 996/997/991 motor. In the long run it’ll be cheaper…. That’s just me tho
I’m curious on what intake temps are. Mid engine cars have a harder time with ventilation vs rear motors
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Unfortunately, yes. I took a chance since it was priced fairly decent. So hope it turns out ok fingers crossed
If you get things sorted out and the motor is happy, I’d really consider making it happier and take all that off..
You wrote: "I had the dash read the oil level meter and it showed about half full! I just ordered an oil change kit as well as an air old separator to be safe"..
It is ok to have the oil level at the middle.. I would leave it right there because when you fill it up to the Max mark you are risking to flood the AOS
It needs or should be on the level… don’t mess with that one… so I’m asking how much more oil does the motor hold since adding the turbo? You have lines, a turbo.. and maybe an oil cooler?? You can’t do an oil change at oem specification and expect the level to be at the top…
Ok. Just installed oem plugs and beru oem coils. Seems a bit better but still hiccups at idle warm up. Haven’t driven car yet. I will tomorrow but still showing misfire cyl 1 and 6. 🤬
Hiccup, so it hesitates? Have you ever check those injectors? How about the fuel pump? MAP sensor?
big question, how much boost? Probably need to stick
An A/F ratio guage…. I’m really guessing here without knowing your A/F. Be careful if you drive that right now… no kidding
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Not driving it at all. Just trying to troubleshoot the car. Yeah, it hiccups at idle. As soon as I drive it out of the garage, I get a CEL misfire codes and currently its cyl 1 and 6. I haven't looked into other components yet. The car is running at around 5psi when I drove it last week. That was the only time I have driven this car since it was delivered. Should I just drop it off at a shop? I don't want to be playing guessing games here. Just want it running right so I can start to enjoy it....
That would be the best idea however determining if this is a TPC issue or a bad component issue could take some time. You have a trusty tuner/dyno shop near you? It’s probably “hiccupping” because of the misfire (unburned fuel)… so that require to hooking it up to live data… this could take some time so be patient… if it was me and wanted to keep the turbo, I’d take it all off and go back to stock…
See how it runs stock…
Then circle back around… ton of work tho…
That oil gauge might never be accurate because of the turbo and all the additional oil lines… again, you better watch that one and try to get a base line…. It’ll never be accurate until it sits over night and mine has even changed after 2 days…

I would have those injectors looked at. Also those pintal caps get gunked up and you could also be sucking air past those rubber injector grommets which would definitely cause a misfire… this is all process of elimination, something I’ve done 1000 times… 700hp rotary and MR2…. It was always something man… the reason I don’t mess with maintenance items anymore, I’m just tired of it
Yeah. I'm leaning towards injectors. I also have been working on many tuner cars since mid 2000s. I have had many cars from japanese turbo cars to european turbo cars. I haven't had a car since 2018 because I was tired of working on cars. But now I got the itch again hence the current car. I am quickly reminded the pain of working on the cars because of things like these. You never get to enjoy the car but just spend so much time and money fixing never ends =/

I'm going to get the car looked at a local shop near me. I really just want to start enjoying the car so hopefully they can pinpoint it and just fix it. I'll keep you guys update.
That’s why I don’t work on them much anymore.. it’s not worth my time.. I haven’t had an import for 15yrs… well guess I had my V6 MR2 5yrs ago. I’ve always had two hobby cars… usually a Porsche and the hobby hobby car…
Anyway, injectors, good place to start… fuel pump too…
Good thing you bring up imports tho… because you could probably buy 10-15 used motors for the price of a Porsche rebuild… food for thought
1 - 10 of 40 Posts