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I just installed this in my Merc GLA "Winter car" and cannot believe how much better/fun it is! Sooooo... Now I'm considering for my Boxster S PDK. Does anyone have any instructions? I read the posts above, but the instructions referenced have disappeared. Also be interested in how this compares with Sports + on the S? I
 

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Just remember to set it back to "standard" (no boost) when you visit the dealer.
Early versions of this product like mine did not have adjustable setting. They were plugged in and that was it. No buttons and no options. The only way to undo it was to crawl back in and remove it completely. They sold an auto trans version and a more sensitive manual version. That was it. I'm sure the newer version with option buttons are much nicer.
 

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Early versions of this product like mine did not have adjustable setting. They were plugged in and that was it. No buttons and no options. The only way to undo it was to crawl back in and remove it completely. They sold an auto trans version and a more sensitive manual version. That was it. I'm sure the newer version with option buttons are much nicer.
Yeah, the newer ones are nice but it doesnt really matter as there is no reason to change anything back just to carry it to a dealer, especially a lowly sprint booster mod that has been around since the 80s. Its just a throttle remapping that has zero to do with the engine performance in any way. Mine has been back many times with it installed and stuck right to the front of the dash and they could care less. I dont even bother with removing my Cobb custom tunes and simply tell them not to do anything with updating the DME unless they talk to me first because there is a custom tune installed. The response is always the same......."we have no reason to update or do anything with the ECU so you will be fine"
 

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2016 Porsche Cayman
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Some commented that you just need to stab the gas pedal fast and deep to get the same action as SB. I came across a YouTube video that demonstrated the throttle valve opening much faster when SB is engaged vs stock even when you rapidly stab the gas pedal. It's like the old school cable linkage direct control. I think, it's on my list to do next as I find that even on Sports+ on my 981, I still want more aggressive response during spirited driving.
 

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2016 Porsche Cayman
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If anyone will have hard time disconnecting the wire cable from the accelerator assembly like the OP's experience, I used channel lock plier (found this technique in the P-9 forum) to press the grey lock tab and made it easy to disconnect the cable. See first photo.
My initial experience with the SB V3 (SBPO0013S) is very positive and worked as advertised. You cannot replicate the response by just stabbing the stock accelerator pedal fast.
I started with S7 but I am liking the R3 setting pending evaluation on wet weather conditions.
This is a keeper!
 

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Thanks for the tip (though too late for me ). I too agree that this device makes a marked improvement in throttle response and drivability of the car especially at lower speeds and off the line. I need to work up to the Red range and give it a try —currently at S7).


Shawn in VA (USA)
 

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Yeah, the newer ones are nice but it doesnt really matter as there is no reason to change anything back just to carry it to a dealer, especially a lowly sprint booster mod that has been around since the 80s. Its just a throttle remapping that has zero to do with the engine performance in any way. Mine has been back many times with it installed and stuck right to the front of the dash and they could care less. I dont even bother with removing my Cobb custom tunes and simply tell them not to do anything with updating the DME unless they talk to me first because there is a custom tune installed. The response is always the same......."we have no reason to update or do anything with the ECU so you will be fine"
@ICNU o know this is an old thread, but what’s your experience with the Sprint Booster combined with the Cobb? I have both the engine and transmission tune for reference.
 

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I have the Cobb ECU and PDK tune as well. Tunes and the Sprint Booster are two separate things with two completely different purposes, but work well in combinations with each other. My headers and Cobb protune unlocked the available power, and the SB is just there to resolve the terrible throttle lag delay these cars have. Tunes dont do anything to resolve the throttle lag. I use race 3 on my setup, but others might find that setting a bit too sensitive, especially when being used in conjunction with the Sport modes.

I bought the PDK tune in hopes it would cure the dead stop PDK takeoff hesitation, but it did nothing to cure that so in retrospect I would not have purchased the PDK tune knowing what I know now. Its still installed since I own it, but I have never driven this car in full auto mode so the increased auto shift points mean nothing, and I already have Sport Chrono and the launch feature, so the PDK tune does pretty much nothing for me that I didn't already have to begin with. It can however do PDK calibrations, so not totally worthless to me

The SB is a really great mod for cheap for those that maybe dont want to spend big money on headers/tunes and start with a simple mod. One is not a replacement for the other at all, but the SB definitely makes the car more fun to drive, getting rid of that built in throttle delay whether you have an additional tune installed or not.

Here is a nice video showing the throttle lag, and how simply pressing the pedal faster/harder for the same result as many claim is nonsense.

 

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^ great information and I was considering a tune but went SB instead (first?). It did help a lot with that dead spot and throttle response overall.

I don’t have headers and am not sure how much is to be gained with a tune on a stock 2.7L 981. Thoughts?


Shawn in VA (USA)
 

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Yeah, I'm not personally that familiar with the results from tuning the 2.7. I'm sure you would notice it, but I guess the question becomes is it worth the cost of entry? One advantage that the Cobb device has is they can be unmarried from the car and are typically sold used for decent money since they are much more than a simple installation device and quite useful outside of the tune.

I paid about $1,100 if I recall years ago when they first became available for the 981 and I see them going in the $900 range used. More if there is a PDK or other optional tune installed on it, so at least its not all out the window like most auto mods are

New headers with a Cobb device and pro tune cost is easily in the $4-5K range. The dollar per HP is quite expensive on these cars, but buying used can cut that pain down a good bit. Softronic claims 20HP/TQ gain on the 2.7 on its own for about $1,200, so $60 per HP even without the big ticket cost of headers being added in. The included Cobb OTS tunes are weak and require a pro tune to maximize the benefit, so you are right back up in the near 2K range for the tune alone since the Cobb device is now $1,400 new

This makes the $300 Sprint Booster one of the best bangs for the buck around for these cars considering the smiles you get for so cheap!
 

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Yeah, I'm not personally that familiar with the results from tuning the 2.7. I'm sure you would notice it, but I guess the question becomes is it worth the cost of entry? One advantage that the Cobb device has is they can be unmarried from the car and are typically sold used for decent money since they are much more than a simple installation device and quite useful outside of the tune.
I found the engine tune “subtle”. The PDK tune made more of a difference, but I usually drive in automatic. I had to uninstall the tune to pass my first smog in 7 years. InterestingLy, the car passed smog emissions with the tune, but but the Cal EO number didn’t cover the model year so I failed. Once I put the tune back on it has to relearn my driving habits, and I’m driving more sedately than I used to. Sprint Booster is on the way and should be shipped today.
 

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Here is a nice video showing the throttle lag, and how simply pressing the pedal faster/harder for the same result as many claim is nonsense.
I'm still skeptical of a demonstration at a trade show meant to sell you a sprint booster. The pedal's function is to send a signal to the DME indicating its position, and then the DME interprets that as a request for torque and adjusts the position of the throttle blade, igntion and camshaft advance, etc. to provide the requested acceleration. What sorcery could one possibly do to that signal that would convince the DME that the throttle blade needs to move more quickly with only throttle position? I can't think of anything. Let's see this video recreated on someone's car. It shouldn't be too hard to open the hatch on a Cayman, remove the engine cover and intake pipe so that you can see the throttle blade, and then stomp on the pedal a few times with and without a sprint booster installed.

These things do function to alter the mapping of the pedal position, which will indeed make the engine feel more powerful at lower positions. We used to swap the throttle camshaft from automatic Dodge Neons onto the manuals because they would open the throttle more quickly in the lower part of the cable throw. That was a hell of a lot cheaper than $300 though.
 

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2016 Porsche Cayman
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I have watched more than 20 YoutTube videos, scoured the car forums from different manufacturers with electronic throttle pedal (MB, BMW, Audi, Lexus, Toyota, Hyundai, Mini, Dodge, Ford, VW, Porsche, Lambo) and also asked feedback from our helpful forum member Shawn (ELCID86) who has the SB, and their experiences are all 99% positive. I have the SB V3 for a week now and couldn't be happier with my decision. For $300 and mere 5 minutes to install/uninstall try it, if you don't like it there is 30 days return full refund.
1. Big improvement on throttle response ("on command")
2. Downshifts quicker & more potent
3. Car feels more playful
4. Benefits the lower torque of the 2.7L
5. Way cheaper than OTS tune
:)
 

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I'm still skeptical of a demonstration at a trade show meant to sell you a sprint booster. The pedal's function is to send a signal to the DME indicating its position, and then the DME interprets that as a request for torque and adjusts the position of the throttle blade, igntion and camshaft advance, etc. to provide the requested acceleration. What sorcery could one possibly do to that signal that would convince the DME that the throttle blade needs to move more quickly with only throttle position? I can't think of anything. Let's see this video recreated on someone's car. It shouldn't be too hard to open the hatch on a Cayman, remove the engine cover and intake pipe so that you can see the throttle blade, and then stomp on the pedal a few times with and without a sprint booster installed.

These things do function to alter the mapping of the pedal position, which will indeed make the engine feel more powerful at lower positions. We used to swap the throttle camshaft from automatic Dodge Neons onto the manuals because they would open the throttle more quickly in the lower part of the cable throw. That was a hell of a lot cheaper than $300 though.
There are devices like the Sprint Booster and Pedal Commander that actually do what they say despite what others "think" are happening, and then there are cheap, China Ebay boosters that do what you are describing. I have personal experience with both.

The cheap copies simply compress the throttle signal into a smaller curve which makes the non-linear pedal to TB opening even worse, but in the opposite direction. In other words, it might take only half pedal to have the TB open 100%. I could initiate the electronic kickdown on my PDK with barely half pedal if set aggressively and the car was a bear to drive, lurching off the line. In this case yes, you are correct that is simply compressing the throttle into a narrow band no differently than stomping the pedal at every takeoff.

The SB does not operate this way and works exactly like you see in the video. There is always 100% linear connection no matter how aggressive you set it. The signal is not being compressed. It's simply matching the pedal position more 1:1 with the TB exactly like the video shows, and all you are adjusting is that non linear delay. Zero pedal is still zero and full pedal is still 100% no matter the setting.

The cheap versions compressing the signal will also screw up the launch control on a PDK equipped with Sport Chrono. You floor the pedal to activate launch, but what the ECU expects to see is not where it should be so the LC will stutter then shut down.

Both launch control and the kickdown works exactly as stock with the SB, and the results are real and the more linear TB/pedal connection is noticed instantly. This company has been around for many years with many thousands of happy customers over many different auto models. I dont think they need to make a fake "scam" setup at a tradeshow to sell these and possibly ruin their reputation. Believing so would also require believing that the many thousands of happy users all of these years are all being tricked and just imagining the benefit they are getting.
 

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I received my SB and installed it yesterday. Makes a big difference in throttle response. I will have to play with the settings. In race mode my manual tranny shifting is all off. But I'm sure that will be useful at autoX or the track.

A couple useful installation tips. I had a really hard time disconnecting the wiring from the pedal. I found this short video useful for removing the gas pedal assembly. And I ended up using a pick tool to disconnect the wiring connector. I've used pick tools of various types in the past for removal of these connectors - useful in the engine compartment.

Gas Pedal Removal


Liquid Fluid Wood Tints and shades Varnish
 

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I installed mine a couple of days ago and really like it. I haven't had a chance to really test it out, but at Street 7 it perks the car up. While "in theory" it's a 5-minute install, it's really a 1/2 to 1 hour. I think PorscheGreg's video would have helped me and thanks for posting it. Cayman Ed's photos really helped since there is no way finger pressure would release the grey tab-a pliers is needed and I would have hesitated without Cayman Ed's pathfinding. Once I got it installed, I then had to remove it to figure out how to zip tie the slack from the wall to the Sprint Booster to the pedal and then route the controller up to the dash. Not hard, just awkward.

Also, if your CC address and shipping address are different, you need to use PayPal. MiniMania sent me an email a couple of days after I ordered it and then I called. They say they've been burned too many times shipping to a different address than the CC. That delayed the receipt a bit but I don't blame them if they've had troubles,
 

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I put mine beside the console using double sided tape. I can still see the light while driving. I am set at S8 (Green) and R3 (Red). Still loving it...
I think I'll try it there- I like it better than up near the nacelle-It's not like I'm going to change it much once I get the settings dialed in.

Thanks!
 

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I hid mine completely out of the way, but in a location that I can reach down and access it and make changes while sitting at a red light if needed.

There is a little opening and small shelf like structure that your hand can fit through under the steering column. I placed a little piece of fuzzy Velcro on that shelf and have the excess cable bundled up but enough cable length left that I can reach down between my knees and pull the device loose from the Velcro and easily access it for changes if needed, then stick it back into the hole.

It’s easy enough to do by feel without even looking down for it, but completely invisible to anyone else that didn’t know it was there
 
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