Hi,You could have gone with 12mm f and 18mm r without tire or fender lip damage. I do not know your wheel offsets, so just a guess from looking at your pictures. I used my OEM wheels with ECS spacers and bolts. Although, I am using a bit more camber -1.6 f and -2.1 r in this picture. This was before I installed Tarett Cup LCA's allowing much more camber in the front. The camber allows the tire shoulder to tuck under the fender lip on bump.
I also noticed that the Tarett Cup LCA's also prevented my 255/35/18 f tires hitting the front interior liner on turn in (race wheels were 9 in f offset 47). The front spacers push out the wheel/tire combo so on turnin with OEM LCA's can hit the front inner liner as shown. Wider race wheels without spacers but a different offset also had the same results until I switched to the Tarett Cup LCA's with the solid red thrust puck preventing forward/rear wheel motion in both front and rear.
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You could ask that your alignment shop convert their sheet to mm instead of degrees.Hi,
Yes.. on hindsight, perhaps a 10mm front. I'm really happy with the rear though and 15mm is perhaps as much as I would like. About the rubbing, that was one of my concerns given what I read and since 7 or 8mm seemed tried and tested, I went the safety route. Perhaps if I get bored later, I may switch to 10mm fronts. I've still no clue what my alignment numbers mean lol.
FYI. Yours was one of the reference cars I took to decide on spacers so thank you.
Thanks for this Apex. Understand about the wear behavior with near 0 camber. That happens though only on sharp cornering. For normal street driving though, a near zero camber as opposed to a more aggressive camber is probably better I think? Maybe I was given this setup as my mech has an understanding of my driving needs 90% of the time. But yeah, I may still consider this for that 2 or 3 times B-road runs a year. I can see how the more aggressive camber will help much more under those driving conditions.Can someone educate me what these numbers mean and what effect its supposed to have pls. OK, As other have suggested your front camber is almost nil, in other words the wheel is almost straight up and down. What that means is in sharp corners, your tire tread will roll inwards on the outside tire causing the tire shoulder to wear extensively. Camber in the negative will prevent that from occurring. Your OEM front camber number could be -1.4 f and -2.1 r without much inside wear.
It's strongly linked to my deciding to keep the car and wantng to give her a new look to keep her fresh. And also stumbling onto this forum.glad to see you're progress on your mods and you enjoying them....wonder how you kept it stock for so long
I'm also running H&R spacers and they seem to be pretty good so far. and yes they can make the rear feel more "planted" hence the 'feel' of slightly heavier steering.
Good to hear about the effect in reducing floatiness. I'm hoping with the dive planes, my next spirited run up north will be more assured.Lookin' good! Picts prove that it really happened. Please add some 3/4 rear photos also.
I had installed a similar part on my '07 Cayman 2.7, and it made a noticable difference in reducing "lightness" or "floatiness" at high speeds when I used to track that car. At street legal speeds, you likely won't notice any difference. But it sure looks nice!
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