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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Got my H&R spacers on today. Went with 7mm front and 15mm rear. Thanks again to the forum for all the input.
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Its not overly pronounced especially the fronts but nice I think. On the drive back, the steering does feel a tad heavier, something which I like as it gives me more assurance.

One last thing now for the refresh.. the duck tail.
 

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Those H&R spacers and bolts are very nice; good quality and product.
 

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You could have gone with 12mm f and 18mm r without tire or fender lip damage. I do not know your wheel offsets, so just a guess from looking at your pictures. I used my OEM wheels with ECS spacers and bolts. Although, I am using a bit more camber -1.6 f and -2.1 r in this picture. This was before I installed Tarett Cup LCA's allowing much more camber in the front. The camber allows the outside tire shoulder to tuck under the fender lip on compression.

I also noticed that the Tarett Cup LCA's also prevented my 255/35/18 f tires hitting the front interior liner on turn in (race wheels were 9 wide in f offset 47). The front spacers push out the wheel/tire combo so on turnin with OEM LCA's can hit the front inner liner as shown. Wider race wheels without spacers but a different offset also had the same results until I switched to the Tarett Cup LCA's with the solid red thrust puck preventing forward/rear wheel motion in both front and rear.
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Like your look better; combo of wheel ET and aligmnet
 

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Discussion Starter #28
You could have gone with 12mm f and 18mm r without tire or fender lip damage. I do not know your wheel offsets, so just a guess from looking at your pictures. I used my OEM wheels with ECS spacers and bolts. Although, I am using a bit more camber -1.6 f and -2.1 r in this picture. This was before I installed Tarett Cup LCA's allowing much more camber in the front. The camber allows the tire shoulder to tuck under the fender lip on bump.

I also noticed that the Tarett Cup LCA's also prevented my 255/35/18 f tires hitting the front interior liner on turn in (race wheels were 9 in f offset 47). The front spacers push out the wheel/tire combo so on turnin with OEM LCA's can hit the front inner liner as shown. Wider race wheels without spacers but a different offset also had the same results until I switched to the Tarett Cup LCA's with the solid red thrust puck preventing forward/rear wheel motion in both front and rear.
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Hi,

Yes.. on hindsight, perhaps a 10mm front. I'm really happy with the rear though and 15mm is perhaps as much as I would like. About the rubbing, that was one of my concerns given what I read and since 7 or 8mm seemed tried and tested, I went the safety route. Perhaps if I get bored later, I may switch to 10mm fronts. I've still no clue what my alignment numbers mean lol.

FYI. Yours was one of the reference cars I took to decide on spacers so thank you.
 

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Hi,

Yes.. on hindsight, perhaps a 10mm front. I'm really happy with the rear though and 15mm is perhaps as much as I would like. About the rubbing, that was one of my concerns given what I read and since 7 or 8mm seemed tried and tested, I went the safety route. Perhaps if I get bored later, I may switch to 10mm fronts. I've still no clue what my alignment numbers mean lol.

FYI. Yours was one of the reference cars I took to decide on spacers so thank you.
You could ask that your alignment shop convert their sheet to mm instead of degrees.
 

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If you can see a 0.10", 1/10 or 3mm you have very good eyes.
Going to 12mm you could probably see clearly 0.20"
 

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glad to see you're progress on your mods and you enjoying them....wonder how you kept it stock for so long :)

I'm also running H&R spacers and they seem to be pretty good so far. and yes they can make the rear feel more "planted" hence the 'feel' of slightly heavier steering.
 

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Can someone educate me what these numbers mean and what effect its supposed to have pls. OK, As other have suggested your front camber is almost nil, in other words the wheel is almost straight up and down. What that means is in sharp corners, your tire tread will roll inwards on the outside tire causing the tire shoulder to wear extensively. Camber in the negative will prevent that from occurring. Your OEM front camber number could be -1.4 f and -2.1 r without much inside wear.
 
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Discussion Starter #33
Can someone educate me what these numbers mean and what effect its supposed to have pls. OK, As other have suggested your front camber is almost nil, in other words the wheel is almost straight up and down. What that means is in sharp corners, your tire tread will roll inwards on the outside tire causing the tire shoulder to wear extensively. Camber in the negative will prevent that from occurring. Your OEM front camber number could be -1.4 f and -2.1 r without much inside wear.
Thanks for this Apex. Understand about the wear behavior with near 0 camber. That happens though only on sharp cornering. For normal street driving though, a near zero camber as opposed to a more aggressive camber is probably better I think? Maybe I was given this setup as my mech has an understanding of my driving needs 90% of the time. But yeah, I may still consider this for that 2 or 3 times B-road runs a year. I can see how the more aggressive camber will help much more under those driving conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
glad to see you're progress on your mods and you enjoying them....wonder how you kept it stock for so long :)

I'm also running H&R spacers and they seem to be pretty good so far. and yes they can make the rear feel more "planted" hence the 'feel' of slightly heavier steering.
It's strongly linked to my deciding to keep the car and wantng to give her a new look to keep her fresh. And also stumbling onto this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Duck Tail came in yesterday and I installed it today before the sky opened up. Really simple job which would have been faster if I had an L shaped wrench. In any case, my allen key set served the purpose.

Looking at this duck tail, its nothing like the 911 ducktail so I don't reckon any reduction in lift will be significant if any at all. Cosmetic wise, I like the cf twirl.

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This about wraps up my Cayman refresh program.. I guess the only mod still really lingering in my mind is the Carnewal 200 cell cat. Year end will see some kind of dry air filter play.. and then maybe some CF front lips to match the duck tail, side vents, wing mirror and dive planes.
 

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Can you post a wider shot; I'm not sure about this and would like a better look.
 

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Lookin' good! Picts prove that it really happened. Please add some 3/4 rear photos also.
I had installed a similar part on my '07 Cayman 2.7, and it made a noticable difference in reducing "lightness" or "floatiness" at high speeds when I used to track that car. At street legal speeds, you likely won't notice any difference. But it sure looks nice!

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
Lookin' good! Picts prove that it really happened. Please add some 3/4 rear photos also.
I had installed a similar part on my '07 Cayman 2.7, and it made a noticable difference in reducing "lightness" or "floatiness" at high speeds when I used to track that car. At street legal speeds, you likely won't notice any difference. But it sure looks nice!

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
Good to hear about the effect in reducing floatiness. I'm hoping with the dive planes, my next spirited run up north will be more assured.
 

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All else being equal, forces (lift/downforce and drag) generated by aerodynamic devices increase in direct proportion to the device's area, and with the square of the vehicle's velocity. In other words, at slow (street legal) speeds you'd need really large areas for these to be effective, but you'd pay a large drag penalty at high speeds. So these attributes are a trade-off, and these devices should be viewed primarily as aesthetic mods for most street driving applications.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 
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