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Just bought Mobil 5w50 from NAPA online for about $6.00 a quart including tax and shipping
 

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Decent price; why going to 5w50 instead of 0w40 ??
 

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There's first hand testimony of members (incl myself) in seeing less startup smoke and less oil consumption after switching from 0w40 to 5w50.
 

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Charles Navarro at LN suggests a little thicker oil to increase film strength when really hot. #6 rod bearing is fead by oil passage that goes to the last main bearing (clutch bearing) first, then to the rod bearing, so on long internal engine runs, the oil is extremely hot. As far as I can determine, most blowup M97 engines from rod bearings, no oil pressure or oil temperature gauges are available. So, heavy weight oil in the summer is a good idea, then back to 0W-40 in the winter months. Charles suggests using Driven XP-9 10W-40 weight oil, which is a racing oil, along with a 60 micron screw on filter to boost the oil pressure.
 

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I been using Joe Gibbs 0W40 when in NY. Maybe I'll go for a 10W50 here in FL.
My Corvette calls for 0W40 also but I did fuse 2 rods 5+6 so that may have been a factor.
Since I have 3 cases of 0W40 does anyone know of an additive to would help thicken me up ?
I use to use GM EOS back in the 60-70's when I was drag racing as it came with a new short block and Baldwin Chevy/Motion Perf. used it in oil changes. I think it's still around.
 

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Oil Extreme concentrate additive will help those 0W40 cases to continue to be effective when they are heated well above 300 degrees. This product also helps keep the cylinder walls smooth as in 9A1 engines that have super tight piston to wall tolerances. You can read about its effects in the RAT/540 web site. Prolong is slightly cheaper and is rated at the top of RAT's wear protection list when used with Pennzoil Ultra 5W-30, but does contain chlorine. Oil Extreme is calcium carbonate technology and more expensive.

My intension here is for a very specific issue with M97 engines, where the heat of the oil causes thermo breakdown of the oil film structure on the #6 rod bearing causing scarring. I agree that for a race day oil, Driven XP-9 is the ticket, but it is not for street use (range of 600 miles). So, for those track guys that also are running their 987.1 M97 cars on the street, you can up the PSI rating of your motor oil my adding 16 oz of oil extreme to your deep sump and leave it there until its time to change oil.

I ordered some oil extreme for my next change to Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 oil, which RAT/540 rates #7 of 200 or so oils in his wear protection ranking list, but I think its a little thin for my application, so the oil extreme will help the viscosity and film layer protection of the #6 rod bearing for 3000 miles.
267610
267612
 

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Sorry but that looks like snake oil at $40 a 16oz. bottle.
 

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being in a tropical cliamate - I find that 5-50 reduces/smoothens the clatter slightly from the engine during idle and is better suited to the driving and hot weather.

you guys are lucky.... your engine oil is cheap compared to us here. It costs approx. 20 bucks a litre.
 

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Yes
Checked with club Pres who went to Mobil presentations. The newest version of Mobil 1 the EST is specially formulated to add racing insurance while not requiring going to a heavier weight. I'll use my Driven 0W40 without additive and dealer uses Mobil1 EST.
 

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I have found I do not have the smoke at start up when car sets a few days, I also notice a little quieter and less loss at track events.
 

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being in a tropical cliamate - I find that 5-50 reduces/smoothens the clatter slightly from the engine during idle and is better suited to the driving and hot weather.

you guys are lucky.... your engine oil is cheap compared to us here. It costs approx. 20 bucks a litre.
It is not available at all in Canada. Need to stock up whenever I’m in the US or have it shipped at great expense.
 

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Smuggler you
What about Driven DT40
 
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