@RSchwerer - GREAT find! The software is an annual subscription? That's the only downside I see. The other question is - can our Chinese head units connect to it so Torque can run on them?
Yes, I did see a homelink activation setting in there somewhere. I believe its choice was Installed or Not Installed, or something like that.I may try clicking around since my HomeLink buttons are dead, and I have heard they sometimes need to be reactivated
Their marketing is kinda aggressive and they have some bizzare point scheme - I guess to earn credits to be applied on renewal. It doesn't make much sense to a casual user. It probably is to attract pro independents. I haven't tried to make sense of of it. The way I understand it - with the purchase of the scanner you get 2 manufacturer licenses included. There are several renewal packages such as $40 per year per manufacturer. I found out that some people just buy a new scanner each year. I also think they occasionally have sales at a discount or special bundles. Currently, they have a two year deal with access to all the manufacturer packages for $199. That's aimed at pros. The $90 purchase price I used was Amazon, you can probably find it cheaper if you look around. I actually only wanted this to do some coding activations on my Mercedes. So $90 was less than paying the dealer. Any other use I get out of it is gravy. Trying it on the Porsche was just an afterthought and I was pleasantly surprised.GREAT find! The software is an annual subscription?
This won't work with Torque. These guys make their money on the licenses. BTW, Torque came pre-installed on my ATOTO A6PF and they sell a BT OBD2 device. I got it free from them for posting a review on Amazon. So I've got it set to load my gauges on startup. The OBD2 plug looked like all the cheap ELM327 mini clones. Amazon has a similar one for about $13can our Chinese head units connect to it so Torque can run on
Too bad it won't. I guess it doesn't support the basic functions that Torque uses? I have one of the Amazon $13 OBD2 dongles - works fine with Torque on my phone, Torque on the Chinese headunit - no dice, can't connect to it with Torque. I can however connect to it with another generic OBD-II Android reader app, so it's not the hardware.This won't work with Torque. These guys make their money on the licenses. BTW, Torque came pre-installed on my ATOTO A6PF and they sell a BT OBD2 device. I got it free from them for posting a review on Amazon. So I've got it set to load my gauges on startup. The OBD2 plug looked like all the cheap ELM327 mini clones. Amazon has a similar one for about $13
Maybe I'll have time to play with it later tonight (or tomorrow..) I spent today reorganizing my 6,400 music tracks to try to eliminate duplicates.Amazon Question said:I got it to show up in available devices. It paired with my phone with code "1234". But, it would not let me connect to it after pairing. I opened Torque on my phone and it would not connect. I tried a number of times, rebooting phone, unpairing, pairing, etc.... Finally, I looked at the directions and find that you have to actually choose that adapter in Torque. Just open the "Choose Bluetooth Device" section and your OBDII device should be listed if you paired it. Then close Torque, reopen it and it should connect to the OBDII dongle just fine.
That worked. Torque can talk to the OBD-II dongle I had. Tricks were - turn off Bluetooth on my phone. Go to the "Bluetooth" app - which is actually the phone app. Click on the "link" icon, and tell it to look. It found the OBD-II dongle, didn't need any password/code to connect - it just connected. Downloaded Torque again, setup a Boxster profile, it defaulted to the OBD-II connection (it announced it would), and things were off and running.Maybe I'll have time to play with it later tonight (or tomorrow..) I spent today reorganizing my 6,400 music tracks to try to eliminate duplicates.
I'm noexpert on these devices but I wonder....is it possible you ran the scan with just the key in the ignition but not in the Acc position? The scanner would have power but not all systems would be activated. That 000603 isn't a DTC code, it is some error caused by an unexpected condition.I have a battery drain issue on my 981 Boxster S. It came up with one code - 000603 Load switch-off but I've no idea how to troubleshoot that, whatever it is. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears.
Sorry, I mispoke. I meant to say in the Run position. Better yet to have the engine running. But then you won't be testing for a phantom drain. Really a scanner doesn't seem like a good tool for this problem. Someone more familiar with a 981 could suggest a better way to test for drain. It could also be a bad battery.Thanks, I'll try again tomorrow and let you know.
Don't mean to hijack the thread, but the best way to troubleshoot a battery drain issue is to pull the negative battery cable off, put an ammeter between the battery and terminal. Close the frunk and wait for the lights to go out then remove fuses one-by-one until you find the offending circuit. You might want to keep a log of how much current each circuit is using by measuring what the value is before pulling the fuse and subtracting the value after. Note: The negative battery terminal is safer, but you might get a little better reading with the positive terminal. If you can do it with the doors closed, you'll get better results, but it's not particularly easy to reach the fuse box.Sorry I can't help with anything mentioned here, but, I did just recently purchase the Thinkdiag2, which is the latest upgraded version costing $129, which is a bargain IMO. It seems to have all these capabilities and more. Reason for my purchase originally was for lowering the suspension on my 2015 Macan S, but now I have a battery drain issue on my 981 Boxster S. It came up with one code - 000603 Load switch-off but I've no idea how to troubleshoot that, whatever it is. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears.
Tested again with ignition on and got the same result. Appreciate your help, though.Sorry, I mispoke. I meant to say in the Run position. Better yet to have the engine running. But then you won't be testing for a phantom drain. Really a scanner doesn't seem like a good tool for this problem. Someone more familiar with a 981 could suggest a better way to test for drain. It could also be a bad battery.
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Thanks. I watched a video with a person using this method, and it seems tedious, but it looks like I'm going to have to try it.Don't mean to hijack the thread, but the best way to troubleshoot a battery drain issue is to pull the negative battery cable off, put an ammeter between the battery and terminal. Close the frunk and wait for the lights to go out then remove fuses one-by-one until you find the offending circuit. You might want to keep a log of how much current each circuit is using by measuring what the value is before pulling the fuse and subtracting the value after. Note: The negative battery terminal is safer, but you might get a little better reading with the positive terminal. If you can do it with the doors closed, you'll get better results, but it's not particularly easy to reach the fuse box.
Can you tell me where the 5 blink setting is?So I deleted the error code and it hasn't come back. Going to monitor the situation. Using the ThinkDiag+2 I was able to program the windows opening with the keyfob, and the directional signal blinking 5 times instead of 3. I found a coding for "comfort" raising and lowering the top, but it didn't work for me. Would love to have one touch up and down without buying the $250 -$400 Smarttop solution found on the web.
Sadly, no. And I just did this today. I was just exploring and it popped up. Can be programmed to any number of blinks. Changed the code to 5 and immediately tested it and it worked. But after backing out of this section I forgot where I found it. If I see it again, I'll update this.Can you tell me where the 5 blink setting is?