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John, how did you do it? Did you go through the fender well? Did you take pictures? You may be the first so we want all the details. If you can...
958 PDCC Line Blown
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Hi John, why did you replace the pump? Did you manage to get pictures To be able to make a small DIY?
Sorry. I never thought to take pictures as it was the most intense operation I've undertaken on a car. Engine swaps on my Boxster are considerably easier.
The pump was leaking fluid as quickly as it could be added to the reservoir.
I did go through the fender. The alternatives are engine-out, or removing the front end. Even so, getting those 11-year-old Torx bolts on the pulley to release their hold required grinding heads off two of the three anyway.
Other pitfalls include the extremely tough access to the rear mounting bolt--and it's a Torx, too!
Getting the turbo pipe back on was challenging. It's hard to get leverage to push it back in place. Use plenty of silicon spray to help it. I also heated it a little.
Then an additional annoyance was the o-rings supplied with the pump for the return lines were just too big. And don't forget to get that new high-pressure o-ring for the bottom output. That little thing is $6, and trust me, you don't want to have to go back in there to replace it.
You will need to pull the radiator fan and housing. This improves access immeasurably. It isn't easy, but the hardest element is just getting it by the radiator hose. It's armored, though, so you won't hurt it squeezing it by.
Now, the kicker: I know why the pump failed. When I started the car, a puddle formed under the rear axle. It's leaking and draining the system.
One last tip is to replace the serpentine belt while at this. You don't want to do this again in your lifetime.
The pump was leaking fluid as quickly as it could be added to the reservoir.
I did go through the fender. The alternatives are engine-out, or removing the front end. Even so, getting those 11-year-old Torx bolts on the pulley to release their hold required grinding heads off two of the three anyway.
Other pitfalls include the extremely tough access to the rear mounting bolt--and it's a Torx, too!
Getting the turbo pipe back on was challenging. It's hard to get leverage to push it back in place. Use plenty of silicon spray to help it. I also heated it a little.
Then an additional annoyance was the o-rings supplied with the pump for the return lines were just too big. And don't forget to get that new high-pressure o-ring for the bottom output. That little thing is $6, and trust me, you don't want to have to go back in there to replace it.
You will need to pull the radiator fan and housing. This improves access immeasurably. It isn't easy, but the hardest element is just getting it by the radiator hose. It's armored, though, so you won't hurt it squeezing it by.
Now, the kicker: I know why the pump failed. When I started the car, a puddle formed under the rear axle. It's leaking and draining the system.
One last tip is to replace the serpentine belt while at this. You don't want to do this again in your lifetime.
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70 Posts
Ahh, moral of the story. Maintain those rear lines also.
Well, I put it back on the lift and discovered the lines are fine. There's definitely a blown seal from the looks of the leak. So that begs the question: can it be rebuilt? I see they are listed, at discount, for about $2400.
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130 Posts
John, do you still have the old pump? Can you take some detailed pics of it? The reason I ask is I want to see if it is a true two stage pump. Or if there is some kind of mechanical / electrical clutch mechanism between them. Are the two stages "locked" on the same shaft, rotating at the same speed? I am trying to figure out if the PDCC side of the pump is always turning with the power steering or just when the car demands it.
Here is the pump. I'm pretty confident disassembly will show there are two pumps on a common shaft. You can see the line where the PDCC is piggybacked to the PS segment of the pump. When I'm finished with the antirollbar and air bag, I'll do a dissection.
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Bumper Rim]()
![Bicycle part Wood Auto part Automotive wheel system Close-up]()
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130 Posts
Interesting... Definitely want to see a dissection.
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Ahhhh haaa. Just as I thought. Thank you tearing it down. Can you see where the point of failure is?
After replacing the rear lines and the pump, I get the PDCC failure warning. I took it to someone with the PIWIS and they had it go through the gyrations to recalibrate. But upon leaving their facility, the first corner I took resulted in the warning again.
They are new to using this tool, so is there anything I should tell them to help them make a permanent fix?
They are new to using this tool, so is there anything I should tell them to help them make a permanent fix?
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130 Posts
That's great news.
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