Might come in handy as I am looking to swap my seat belts out to match the exterior of the car. Break up the monotonous black interior a bit.
This is the accessory drive belt, not seat belt.Might come in handy as I am looking to swap my seat belts out to match the exterior of the car. Break up the monotonous black interior a bit.
Yeah I think I won the vote for the stupidest post ever. Thanks for pointing that out. Should teach me to NOT forum right before going to bed.This is the accessory drive belt, not seat belt.
I’ll admit I’ve done it lol.Yeah I think I won the vote for the stupidest post ever. Thanks for pointing that out. Should teach me to NOT forum right before going to bed.
I did not replace it, the tensioner was in good shape. Plenty of pressure to hold belt tight and smooth motion. I don't know if dealer always replaces as part of belt service.Thanks for your step-by-step write up. I will need to do this soon.
Did you replace the hydraulic tensioner as well?
According to your write-up, it looks like you didn't.
I'm not sure if it is necessary or not...
Does anyone know if the dealer replaces it if the dealer does the belt change?
It needs to be replaced at 60K miles. I did the procedure but I wouldn't say it was easy. If you're not confident in your mechanic ability I'd buy the belt yourself and have an independent shop do the job. The 60k service I believe is around $700 on average...DIY cost me about $100 (2 cabin filters, belt, oil change, clean my K&N air filters).I completely ignorant in terms of mechanics, do you know this should be done by someone with some experience? or need just to have the right tools and jump into doing it? I don't want to pay stealer money for the new belt, also can you please tell me how do you know when your belt needs to be replaced?
Thank you amazing right up definitely I take my hat off for people who take their time to help others. Thanks!
You're most welcome. It's very rewarding when other P9 members get the confidence to do their own work when you've written up tips for the job. I always include the difficult bits and mistakes I make so people know exactly what they are getting into with the job.I just performed this procedure today and wouldn't have taken it on without this write-up....thanks a bunch! Removing the spacer from the engine mount was definitely unnerving, and it was pretty difficult to get the old belt out with such tight clearance, but the new one went one really easily. I couldn't use a socket on the tensioner since it stuck out to far, but a big crescent worked perfectly. I also used an AC Delco belt from Rock Auto for $18...much better paying $50 for an OE part...works perfect! Thanks so much!
All the videos and what not I have found are all for the 986/7 and not 981 specific. So I thought I'd post up my tips from having done this recently. If you do not drop anything this is maybe an hour job. I dropped, first the spacer then the bolt and the job to almost 3 hours. Where does the spacer and the bolt go when dropped, there is a cavity that is forward of the firewall at the bottom of the car, and you have to take the bottom engine cover off to get to it or even see it. Yes, took me nearly 2 hours to find the bolt and spacer.
Tools
10MM Wrench or socket
16MM combo wrench with box and open end.
30MM wrench or socket, I used vice grips.
Punch to tap spacer out.
magnet or some other way not to lose spacer
18" slim piece of wood or plastic, I used 18" ruler
Bent needle nose pliers
Steps
1. Remove carpet from back wall of cabin. Tip Speaker covers clips are towards the center so start there, lift up until clips come out and then slide towards center of car.
2. Remove the access cover 10MM bolts and 2 10MM nuts, pretty straight forward.
3. Remove the bolt that hold for the engine mount that runs through the spacer. You have to start with box end of wrench then switch to open end.
4. Fish out old belt. Rotate tensioner towards the center of the car to get the slack you need. This is where the 18" ruler came in handy. There is not much room under the main pulley so belt has to be pushed down to clear the lip then rotated vertical to be pulled up.
5. Replace belt. The ruler helped here as well, start with the main pulley at the bottom and work your way out and up around the edges to the "middle". The idler pulley at the top is where you finish installing belt, it has no lip so you don't have to have much slack to get it on.
6. Reinstall spacer and bolt. This is where a magnet and needle nose pliers or other means not to drop the spacer and bolt come in handy. Also, the worst thing to do here is to tap the spacer to low to start with, there is no good way to get it back up. So you have to remove and start over. You can see to get it lined up side to side and then leave it a little high get the bolt in there and tap it down until bolt goes through.
7. Reinstall engine cover.
8. Reinstall carpet and speaker covers.
The bolt you are trying to remove is on the other side of the firewall from the red arrow.
View attachment 194025
View attachment 194065
Here is a better view of bolt.
View attachment 194041
View attachment 194049
This is the tensioner 30MM
View attachment 194057
View attachment 194033
[/QUO
All the videos and what not I have found are all for the 986/7 and not 981 specific. So I thought I'd post up my tips from having done this recently. If you do not drop anything this is maybe an hour job. I dropped, first the spacer then the bolt and the job to almost 3 hours. Where does the spacer and the bolt go when dropped, there is a cavity that is forward of the firewall at the bottom of the car, and you have to take the bottom engine cover off to get to it or even see it. Yes, took me nearly 2 hours to find the bolt and spacer.
Tools
10MM Wrench or socket
16MM combo wrench with box and open end.
30MM wrench or socket, I used vice grips.
Punch to tap spacer out.
magnet or some other way not to lose spacer
18" slim piece of wood or plastic, I used 18" ruler
Bent needle nose pliers
Steps
1. Remove carpet from back wall of cabin. Tip Speaker covers clips are towards the center so start there, lift up until clips come out and then slide towards center of car.
2. Remove the access cover 10MM bolts and 2 10MM nuts, pretty straight forward.
3. Remove the bolt that hold for the engine mount that runs through the spacer. You have to start with box end of wrench then switch to open end.
4. Fish out old belt. Rotate tensioner towards the center of the car to get the slack you need. This is where the 18" ruler came in handy. There is not much room under the main pulley so belt has to be pushed down to clear the lip then rotated vertical to be pulled up.
5. Replace belt. The ruler helped here as well, start with the main pulley at the bottom and work your way out and up around the edges to the "middle". The idler pulley at the top is where you finish installing belt, it has no lip so you don't have to have much slack to get it on.
6. Reinstall spacer and bolt. This is where a magnet and needle nose pliers or other means not to drop the spacer and bolt come in handy. Also, the worst thing to do here is to tap the spacer to low to start with, there is no good way to get it back up. So you have to remove and start over. You can see to get it lined up side to side and then leave it a little high get the bolt in there and tap it down until bolt goes through.
7. Reinstall engine cover.
8. Reinstall carpet and speaker covers.
The bolt you are trying to remove is on the other side of the firewall from the red arrow.
View attachment 194025
View attachment 194065
Here is a better view of bolt.
View attachment 194041
View attachment 194049
This is the tensioner 30MM
View attachment 194057
View attachment 194033Thanks to you and everyone who contribute. Did this myself in a short amount of time without a problem. Zip ties really helped.All the videos and what not I have found are all for the 986/7 and not 981 specific. So I thought I'd post up my tips from having done this recently. If you do not drop anything this is maybe an hour job. I dropped, first the spacer then the bolt and the job to almost 3 hours. Where does the spacer and the bolt go when dropped, there is a cavity that is forward of the firewall at the bottom of the car, and you have to take the bottom engine cover off to get to it or even see it. Yes, took me nearly 2 hours to find the bolt and spacer.
Tools
10MM Wrench or socket
16MM combo wrench with box and open end.
30MM wrench or socket, I used vice grips.
Punch to tap spacer out.
magnet or some other way not to lose spacer
18" slim piece of wood or plastic, I used 18" ruler
Bent needle nose pliers
Steps
1. Remove carpet from back wall of cabin. Tip Speaker covers clips are towards the center so start there, lift up until clips come out and then slide towards center of car.
2. Remove the access cover 10MM bolts and 2 10MM nuts, pretty straight forward.
3. Remove the bolt that hold for the engine mount that runs through the spacer. You have to start with box end of wrench then switch to open end.
4. Fish out old belt. Rotate tensioner towards the center of the car to get the slack you need. This is where the 18" ruler came in handy. There is not much room under the main pulley so belt has to be pushed down to clear the lip then rotated vertical to be pulled up.
5. Replace belt. The ruler helped here as well, start with the main pulley at the bottom and work your way out and up around the edges to the "middle". The idler pulley at the top is where you finish installing belt, it has no lip so you don't have to have much slack to get it on.
6. Reinstall spacer and bolt. This is where a magnet and needle nose pliers or other means not to drop the spacer and bolt come in handy. Also, the worst thing to do here is to tap the spacer to low to start with, there is no good way to get it back up. So you have to remove and start over. You can see to get it lined up side to side and then leave it a little high get the bolt in there and tap it down until bolt goes through.
7. Reinstall engine cover.
8. Reinstall carpet and speaker covers.
The bolt you are trying to remove is on the other side of the firewall from the red arrow.
View attachment 194025
View attachment 194065
Here is a better view of bolt.
View attachment 194041
View attachment 194049
This is the tensioner 30MM
View attachment 194057
View attachment 194033
TE]
thanks To you and everyone who