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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
MY PROBLEM SOLVED - I have a 2013 Boxster S 77K miles with a manual transmission. The car was always hard to shift especially into 2nd gear. The other day after a week of not driving, the car wouldn't shift at all. It was frozen in neutral. Yikes! I called the local $tealership and they wanted it towed in for service. They speculated about transmission problems, etc. All I could envision was an invoice made out in Roman Numerals. I searched the forums and You Tube... but nothing. I decided for a DIY exploratory fix. A couple of hours later, I found the problem. There is a black cast wheel that is attached to the drivers side of the transmission. This wheel is a pivot point for the shift linkage. There is a 4" plastic linkage arm attached to the wheel and the shift linkage. The wheel has a copper type bearing in the center and there is a 30mm bolt that attaches it to the side of the transmission. The wheel is supposed to spin freely. Mine was rusted solid and could barely be turned even with a wrench on it. I popped off the plastic linkage arm. Using a 30mm wrench, I unbolted the wheel from the side of the transmission. I put the wheel in a vice and pressed out the bolt. Rusted solid. No lubrication at all. I wire wheeled the bolt, washer, and cleaned out the bearing surface as much as possible. I reassembled the entire unit with anti-seize on all moving parts. I torqued the bolt to 40 lb.ft. but that torque setting was a guess on my part. Couldn't find that spec anywhere so I just picked a reasonable number and rolled with it. Hooked up the plastic linkage piece. Now it's shifting like we the people and the little hitch I had going into second gear is gone too. Smooth and easy. Problem Solved. I hope this information can help someone who has shifting problems with their manual transmission 981. An easy check is to crawl under the car, pop off the plastic linkage arm and see if you can spin that black wheel freely. If not, take it apart, clean it, and lube the hell out of it. See pics.
 

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Holy crap. I have a hell of a time on track days downshifting from third to second. It seems as though when I am braking hard and turning I get locked out of second gear. I searched and searched but never found anyone that had an issue with second gear. I usually have to shift back into third or into first before I can get it back into second again. I’ll have to check this out, do you have pics of when you pulled it off?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mr. Moose on Rennlist told me that black cast wheel is an inertia wheel to help with adding some heft to your shifting. He disconnected his wheel but didn't notice any real difference in the shifting. I would think that the wheel provides weighted resistance to the shift linkage to keep the car in gear when you hit a hard bump at speed. Not sure. But with mine, I couldn't shift at all. It was frozen solid and the bolt was really corroded. The previous owner used the car as a daily driver where they use a lot of salt on the roads in winter. There is a lot of corrosion and rust on all the unprotected steel. Looks like crap. Also, I don't have pics of when I pulled the wheel off, but it's very straight forward with no surprises except a washer that may need to be cleaned up too. I would check your car by disconnecting the plastic linkage first and seeing how the wheel spins. It should spin like a roulette wheel free and easy.
 

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I don't have a manual BS but if I ever need troubleshooting help, what are your rates? :hilarious:
Seriously, GREAT JOB!!!
 

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Great post!
 

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Thanks for this! I've been having increasing difficulty shifting into 2nd and now beginning to have some resistance with 3rd as well. In my case it's a sporadic problem, but have always thought it's something with the linkage. This is very likely the problem and since I'm due for my 5 year service (oil change) I'll show the dealer your post when I take it in so they can check this out.

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Cayman7 - Your Cayman is the same color as my car. In any event, I can't imagine what the $tealer would charge you, but they need to take it apart to lube it properly. I tried spraying it with PB Blaster (see pics). It didn't penetrate. Once apart, it's just a bolt, washer, and wheel. Anti-seize everything and put it back together. It should spin like a roulette wheel.
 
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