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987.1 oil pressure stability

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Guys, I am in the process of changing over my LN deep sump kit that has done its work for the past 5 years. My only concern is various racers have had rod bearing issues from lack of oil pressure on various courses. So a couple of weeks ago I bought a Hartech deep oil pan. I will have Cantrell Motor Sports take off the LN and replace it with this pan including 997 Swirl Pots. I will try to get Cantrell to take a couple of pictures before they put the LN skid plate back on.
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Following.
Attached is more info about the total build for a HPDE using a 987.1 S Cayman This is from Slakker Racing Development of the Hartech 987 pan. My current plan is to use my 996 heat exchanger, Hartech sump including swirl pots, LN spin on filter, Motul V-300 Competition 5W 40 then changing to 5W-50. Change oil after 3500 miles. My Hartech sump has not arrived at this point. I need to make an appointment with Cantrell Motor sports to install along with a couple of other mods on my list.

Slakker postedm My only adds to the current conversation is that the stock AOS (genuine, not aftermarket) seems to handle an extra quart of oil as well, without issue, but there is very limited data on it or the UAOS doing so at this time.

If I was only doing an occasional track day, here the minimum guidelines I would follow after all that we have learned:
1. Center radiator is a must! Oil temps over 250F require a 60W oil to maintain adequate film strength (12 centiStokes for track use). Water wetter helps as well.
2. Run a fresh 50w synthetic oil that is suitable for the track (less than 2000 calcium, no sodium, over 1200 combined moly and phosphate) and change it regularly. A rough guideline is that 1 hour on track equals about 500-750 street miles. Don't go more than 5,000 miles between changes
3. Maintain an oil level between max fill and 1/2 a quart overfilled

Temperature vs Oil Viscosity taken from the 2019 Driven Oils catalog:




The Hartech sump has sold out in the last day but there is another batch currently in manufacturing that can be backordered. Main difference between the 996/7 and 986/7 versions is how the oil is channeled. The sumps have been available primarily to Hartech engine customers previously but are now open to the broader market in the US through our relationship. However, like Hartech, we are focused on the engineering, developing, machining and rebuilding of Porsche water cooled engines. We are not a parts sales/marketing firm and never intend to be. While I do want to make our sumps available to those that are interested, especially now that I have seen the data as well, that has nothing to do with my involvement in this thread. I love what @zbomb has started here and that people like @golock911 continue to help propel forward, which is its own little myth busters of marketing hype using real data. And marketing hype is something Ive always detested.

This is exactly how I got my sump, I filled out their backorder form and sent it to Slakker Racing Development. Google this site to get the Hartech 987.1 sump form. I cannot explain how important this Hartech sump is to our 987.1 cars. I have been very careful not pushing my car in any long high G corners because of the oil instability problems that repeat every few months on P9. Slakker has done a great job of showing the graphs using his car with slicks to achieve G forces over 1.5, I will post these graphs in a couple of days or you can simply google oil instability in 996. Slakker started the testing around April 12 using the Hartech sump on Rennlist. You really need to know the whole story including the issue that Hartech has been banned from Rennlist. Seems he is a vendor.




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Thanks for the writeup. I think moving to a 50W oil will also be a good move. It's a shame that FCP doesn't carry 300V in 5w-50 yet, but once they do it will be a good source to pick up 300V from.

Is the centre radiator an oil cooler or just another rad for the coolant? I'm fairly certain that it is just coolant - does this have a big impact on oil temps?
A larger oil heat exchanger will pull more temperature out of the oil into the water circulation system. There is a model of 996 oil heat excnanger that is about 30% larger than the OEM Cayman. It does fit under the intake system. It also heats up the oil faster in the morning. That's what I am using. Motul 300V Competition 15W 50 is $287 for 10 2.2 liters cans on Amazon.
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From the Rennlist thread 996 engine oil instability post 1430. The comparison of an OEM 3.2 Boxster vs a Hartech sump. Please review this data yourself.
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A larger oil heat exchanger will pull more temperature out of the oil into the water circulation system. There is a model of 996 oil heat excnanger that is about 30% larger than the OEM Cayman. It does fit under the intake system. It also heats up the oil faster in the morning. That's what I am using. Motul 300V Competition 15W 50 is $287 for 10 2.2 liters cans on Amazon.
I'm going to start looking into this 996 oil heat exchanger system + centre radiator. Dinkyhatchback just did the install of the centre radiator on his 987 and it seemed to go smoothly.
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A picture of the lower tray of the Hartech 987.1 floor. I am curious about the oil flow under the windage plate.

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Wait, you have your pan in hand already? I thought they weren't going to ship till june.

Anxiously awaiting your feedback. I fully intend to purchase one of these for my car.

Also, why was Hartech banned from rennlist? Someone over there got irritated? lol
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My guess was LN, other deep sump manufactures and a couple of AOS suppliers that this pan suggested were not needed. Rennlist may have some vendor payments for entry on their site. Not sure about the background but a lot of negative talk from a couple of individuals about Hartech approach to our market. Sort of caught a few competitors off guard as Hartech in the UK had these pans available only to their engine rebuild customers.
No secret sauce to getting the pan. I just sent in the backorder form with my payment. I'm actually in no rush as I need to schedule shop time at Cantrell Motor Sports to install the sump and modify my shifter assembly on the outside of the transmission for my Numeric shifter cables. I usually have a list for them.
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I have asked Brandon Clark from Slakker Racing Development to supply more info about the sandwich spacer on the spin on oil filter to have two plugs for the oil pressure and oil temp at the oil filter. I also asked for his best recommendation regarding the cockpit gauges and oil pressure/temp logging that would line up to what Slakker is providing on Rennlist. I do not intend to post these results, only to keep my own record as I will not have head pressure sensors only the filter sensor.
This will certainly fit into my 5 year car usage plan. No blowup from oil starvation.
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I have asked Brandon Clark from Slakker Racing Development to supply more info about the sandwich spacer on the spin on oil filter to have two plugs for the oil pressure and oil temp at the oil filter. I also asked for his best recommendation regarding the cockpit gauges and oil pressure/temp logging that would line up to what Slakker is providing on Rennlist. I do not intend to post these results, only to keep my own record as I will not have head pressure sensors only the filter sensor.
This will certainly fit into my 5 year car usage plan. No blowup from oil starvation.

Found through one of the other threads. These parts, correct? 996 swirl pot, 997 down tubes:

996 swirl pots: Porsche Oil Separator Genuine Porsche 99610708054 996 107 080 54 996-107-080-54 996.107.080.54 | Pelican Parts
997 return tubes: Porsche Oil Return Tube Genuine Porsche 99710701600 997 107 016 00 997-107-016-00 997.107.016.00 | Pelican Parts

from threads:
I'm going with swirl pots rather than straight down tube to remove some air bubbles from the heads. Currently with my LN system, the idea was to quickly get the oil out of the heads with straight tubes as soon as possible and let the windage plate remove the air bubbles. Seems the Hartech system moves the oil around inside to get the air bubbles out while using swirl pots as well.
To bad that Porsche never put in the time/money onto research to get the correct oil pan on the M 97. They did correct the system on the next model though.
Hartech really changed the picture of price and use of the Cayman 987.1S. Once this oil pan gets through the install period and members have data to back up the investment of $1650, then we will start seeing the price of the Cayman/Boxster/911 (M 97 engine) go up substantially.
We still have rod bolts stretch and bore scoring to deal with though, so take it easy warming up the engine and no over revs for any reason.
I'm going to install an oil temperature and pressure gauge getting the info from a donut ring between the spin on filter and block along with the Hartach pan going forward.
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I had the rod bearing failure just 2 weeks after I bought my 2007 Cayman in 2011. Was driving on the track in Imola in Italy. The car had a custom made deep sump.
At that time I opted for the t-t-p solution using 2 additional oil pumps in the heads to bring oil back to the pan.
Many years later this concept was presented by LN engineering.
The Porsche x51 pan or it's derivatives did not look convincing years ago, so I am curious to see new devs in this area. The data looks good, and I also know Hartech and l do use there cylinder liners for my Cayman twin turbo.
I also dealt with LN years ago, bought Carillo rods.

It all comes down to how fast you turn in the corners, any tests done with slicks and measuring g-force as well?

Enjoy your day
Andreas​
Andreas Yes on Rennlist Stakker has data on his Boxster using square wheel/tire setup with slicks producing about 1.8 G's for some time. Believe he did 18 laps at this rate so the oil temps and heat soak was appearant. This test using an OEM pan and OAS which showed pressure dips compared to 1 qt overfill of the Hartech pan and a OEM AOS produced no dips in oil pressure, You can see this data by scrolling through the Rennlist thread 996 oil instability thread after April 13th. You can see part of this session on post #6 of this thread. But to get the real essence of the development you should read the whole discussion after Slakker introduced the Hartech pan using his Boxster. He did a comparison vs a session using an OEM sump setup and slicks.
You certainly remember all the blowup's that were occurring both to your M-97 engine and a lot of other M-97 motors. I modified my suspension and motor as best I could starting 5 years ago, but pulled back as the LN and other deep sumps simply did not protect from oil pressure drops in some high G corners by continuing owners blowup using these deep sumps.
Now, finally I may have the faith in Hartech pan to push the car into that gray oil pressure stability zone now. Not sure about the right head Scavenge pump though. I believe that is why the 1 extra qt of oil is necessary especially using the swirl pots on the oil return. I will send Brandon Clark/Slakker a message reguarding the extra right head oil pump and add that return message to this thread.
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The rennlist thread is too long to read through....
Just my personal comments: 1. Scavenge pump on the front right cyl head is important. Or use an electric one (easy) or use a second mechanical pierburg (original) with a different housing. The mechanical version is fail proof. The electric pump is cheaper and easier to install. Search for Schnitz turbo oil scavenge pump if you want to buy american (or Marco for Italian).
For the pan: I use the original one.
Doing 5-10 track days a year, running on Pirelli Trofeo R tyres, Cayman S 2007 with twin turbo , IC and Water injection.
since 2011 2 engines blown (one was piston melted due to lean mixture, another was rods bent and 1 broken (too high boost) , but in both occasions the crank shaft was good. So no oiling problems.

Good luck and enjoy your Caymans
Andreas
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Thanks for the writeup. I think moving to a 50W oil will also be a good move. It's a shame that FCP doesn't carry 300V in 5w-50 yet, but once they do it will be a good source to pick up 300V from.

Is the centre radiator an oil cooler or just another rad for the coolant? I'm fairly certain that it is just coolant - does this have a big impact on oil temps?
I don’t have data on cooling yet but on my 987.1BS, I run a center rad, water with water wetter, dominator 15W50 oil, low temp therm,and have removed the condensers, fans, radiator ducts and fender liners. My oil temp typically peaks around 217F. Figuring out how much impact each of these variables has will be a fun project this summer in the Texas sun.
Slakker-I received the box that included the Hartech pan, and a few other items. I do intend to have swirl pots installed to help reduce oil bubbles. I currently have a Porsche 987.1 MotorSports AOS which is working perfectly. I intend to have Cantrell Motor Sports remove the LN deep sump and replace it with the Hartech oil pan. I also had Cantrell install a 996 oil/water heat exchanger which is about 25% larger than the OEM Cayman S exchanger. the larger heat exchanger not only keeps the oil cooler on hot days but warms up the oil faster in the morings reducing the risk of bore scoring. But without garuges, hard to know exactly what the impact of the larger heat exchenger is.
Currently, I have no oil gauges, but do have a LN spin on filter. Is there a commercial spacer that has the oil pressure and temp holes with threads that I can have installed along with the electronic gauges. What brand of gauges would you recommend?
I'm waiting for you to complete the LN vs Hartech oil pressure stability test along with a lot of other interested owners.
Thanks,
Ken
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Currently, I have no oil gauges, but do have a LN spin on filter. Is there a commercial spacer that has the oil pressure and temp holes with threads that I can have installed along with the electronic gauges. What brand of gauges would you recommend?
I did use a GlowShift Oil Filter Sandwich Spacer (before FSI put in the IMS Solution). It has 4 ports (1/8" NPT threads) and worked with an oil temp sender. I used a DepoRacing 4 fcn gauge for 2 oil temps, oil pressure and voltage.
If you're interested in the spacer (cheap!), DM me.
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I'm going with swirl pots rather than straight down tube to remove some air bubbles from the heads. Currently with my LN system, the idea was to quickly get the oil out of the heads with straight tubes as soon as possible and let the windage plate remove the air bubbles. Seems the Hartech system moves the oil around inside to get the air bubbles out while using swirl pots as well.
To bad that Porsche never put in the time/money onto research to get the correct oil pan on the M 97. They did correct the system on the next model though.
Hartech really changed the picture of price and use of the Cayman 987.1S. Once this oil pan gets through the install period and members have data to back up the investment of $1650, then we will start seeing the price of the Cayman/Boxster/911 (M 97 engine) go up substantially.
We still have rod bolts stretch and bore scoring to deal with though, so take it easy warming up the engine and no over revs for any reason.
I'm going to install an oil temperature and pressure gauge getting the info from a donut ring between the spin on filter and block along with the Hartach pan going forward.
your posts, @Apex1 , are like engineering lectures. good stuff. :) I also want to install oil temp / pressure gauges because of the bs oil level sensor which gives me a different value every time I insert the damn key. it is absolutely useless. Even if the oil level shows zero, I don't even worry about that because next time it'll show overfill. stupid POS. especially if there's no puddle under the damn car. Yes, I'm kind of venting here. this kind of stupid crap angers me from an engineering POV.

I did want to ask you something though. versus the stock oil pan, the FVD and LN oil pans are better than the OEM. The hartech is an improvement on those? but a lot of the discussions lately have implied that the others are useless. I disagree with that. as far as the photos go, I can't tell the difference between that and the LN oil pan. they both have the x51 baffles. and still no one has done G-Force testing on the other two. how do we know they aren't giving the same improvements?

I've still got the FVD in my to do list. and given the huge contributions of LN, I can't help but wonder if their oil pan isn't sufficient as well. I'm skeptical of the hype.
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