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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It seems like people sit in 1 of 3 camps when it comes to the 987.1
1) Don't track it it will explode
2) Don't track it with R-Compound tires stock
3) Swap oil pan/ AOS/ PS Coole/ ETC and go wild.

Let's say you had a daily driver that you occasionally wanted to attend a HPDE with. Seeing as most aren't race car drivers and don't go insanely crazy, what would suffice for a light track usage with standard street tires - just a deep sump or accusump + not redlining car to avoid PS meltdown?

Again, I could be completely wrong....
 

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Seriously.... always hate when guys say read the forum but in this case, there is no answer, do your research make your own decision. There is no guarantee a 987.1 will or will not blow up. Even with all protection mods motors go and otoh. stock motors last forever... risk/vs/stats/vs your tolerance/vs your depth of wallet..... So do your research and gl
 

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I do 4-5 DEs / yr and drive long distance to get to a couple of them (COTA & Indy). Here's what I've done and do:

higher walled sump baffle
use street tires
check my ps fluid before every event. Never had any problems, incl 3 day DEs at 20 turn COTA. I think people run into problems b/c their fluid is low.
bring a spare AOS. At $90, you can buy a lot of AOSs before you get to the cost of the Accusump.
I have the IPD plenom + GT3 throttle body but I don't think it makes much difference in performance unless you chg throttle mapping. I don't want to chance blowing up my motor b/c of an aggressive map. The IPD plenom does eliminate a vacuum hose to the AOS, reducing stress on the AOS.
SHIFT AT 6K RPM. This relieves stress on the rod bolts.
change oil every 4500-5500 mi.

That's it as far as my survival strategy. With the proliferation of track day weapons, the 987.1 is not going to beat 95% of the cars on the track so by following my simple processes I give up a bit of performance but hope to be able to drive to and enjoy many more DEs in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Seriously.... always hate when guys say read the forum but in this case, there is no answer, do your research make your own decision. There is no guarantee a 987.1 will or will not blow up. Even with all protection mods motors go and otoh. stock motors last forever... risk/vs/stats/vs your tolerance/vs your depth of wallet..... So do your research and gl
Noted. Thank you

I do 4-5 DEs / yr and drive long distance to get to a couple of them (COTA & Indy). Here's what I've done and do:

That's it as far as my survival strategy. With the proliferation of track day weapons, the 987.1 is not going to beat 95% of the cars on the track so by following my simple processes I give up a bit of performance but hope to be able to drive to and enjoy many more DEs in the future.
Nice list appreciate it ! :)
 

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By bang-for-the-buck:

"Racing Secrets" by Ross Bentley. $12
Better tires. Not necessarily R-compound, but something like Michelin PSs (or its successor,) or if you're cheap, some Kumhos.
Racing pads at about $300/axle.(For safety as well as speed)
Sway bars.Cost about $1500 - $2000 installed front and rear
Lowering springs.
Decrypting ECU and track remapping. Adds about 25ho for about $2300. Might cost less for a 987
Replace lower control arms.
 

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Even the "youngest" 987.1 motors are now almost ten years old. They've had a history of serious failures (rod bearing, rod bolt, cylinder scoring, AOS, IMS-B) and they will likely fail more often as they age.

There's a guy that posted in this very thread that's on his *third* 987.1 engine. If you track one, even with preventive mods, you would be wise to budget for it to break. Figure $20K - $30K for an engine rebuild depending on how fancy you want to get.

The age-old advice very much applies to the 987.1: if you can't write a check for it, don't track it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Sorry to OP for taking off topic, how do you guys keep it under 6K? I take it up to 7800 RPM going to the store.. Best part of the rev range.. I guess its a rhetorical question as its a personality thing... lol
 

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After running a 986 Boxster for 10 years and 100 track days with no motor/oiling issues I'd recommend:

*Stay on street tires but run "Extreme Performance" like RE-11, RE-71R, Hankook RS-3, Dunlop Star Spec, because they hold up well under continuous lapping. PS2, PSS, S-04, and other "Max Performance" tires often overheat and start chunking the shoulders.

* Get an alignment and corner balance from a well-known Porsche track-prep shop to get the most out of your contact patch in both grip and longevity. It will double the life of your tires.

* Change your oil every 3k-4k and make sure oil and PS fluid are always topped off every track day morning.

* Avoid high-rev downshifts zinging the motor to 7k while doing heel toe. This will often cavitate the oil pickup and damage the motor. Blip the throttle only enough to rev-match at around 4500 rpm.

These three things will give you the best chance to avoid unnecessary damage while playing at the race track. Bad things are still possible, but this gives you a well-proven plan that has worked for many drivers in 987.1 cars.
 

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Thanks Cajundaddy, that looks like a very reasonable course of action. I'm also just now finishing up a 2007 Boxster S to do a few DE's a year. I've done this for a while with several cars, and my goal is to have a drive there-drive back car that lets me have some fun without going all out. Picked up a clean 47K car a few months ago at a great price and have been planning how to go about this like the OP.

I've swapped out the stock shocks and springs for the Cayman R units, getting a little lower COG. Will use AO8s on stock 18 inch S wheels, at least to start, as a reasonable grip/street compromise. Corner balance and camber adjustment to Cayman R specs, hi temp brake fluid and upgraded pads (haven't decided what yet, may just try the street+ pads from the Cayman R until it gets really hot in the summer). Have no intention on touching the engine, and plan on doing exactly what Cajundaddy suggests on maintenance and driving technique.

On the needless but fun end, I had Dallas Steering Wheel recover my sports wheel in alcantara, so it's both grippier and a little thicker. Am getting grippy seat inserts, since I don't intend to go the harness/aftermarket seat routine.

A thing no one talks about but I've found as important as anything else is being in good enough shape to be able to maintain concentration to do 4 20-25 minute sessions on a hot day. But that's a whole other topic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
After running a 986 Boxster for 10 years and 100 track days with no motor/oiling issues I'd recommend:


These three things will give you the best chance to avoid unnecessary damage while playing at the race track. Bad things are still possible, but this gives you a well-proven plan that has worked for many drivers in 987.1 cars.

Late reply, but I appreciate the post Cajundaddy and everyone else!
 

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I finally did a track day last November. Before going to the track I did a deep sump tray with baffle and a direct oil feed to the IMS. I also added high-temp brake fluid as well as new brake pads and rotors as needed.
My AOS died a few months later, but I had no trouble while at the track. I bet the track day hastened the demise of the AOS. I replaced it myself, but have had a CEL regarding "idle too rich at bank 1 and 2". I went on a 5-hour round trip tour this past weekend and the car felt great, but the CEL returned on the way home. Any ideas? I had new plugs before the AOS failure. I'm thinking fouled plugs or oxy sensors. :(
 

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Nitto NT01's are great for the track and last a LONG time. You can drive them to/from the track, but only in dry weather.
 
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