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987.2 Cayman S MT Track Prep, Maintenance, and Mods

63K views 363 replies 32 participants last post by  GroupJ 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone!

I recently purchased this 2009 Cayman S with the 6 speed manual off BAT. I haven't actually picked up the car yet (will do later this week) but I am already digging through the forums here looking for the information I need, and so far it has been very helpful. This thread I'm using to document what I'm going through with my car, as well as clarifying anything I'm still unsure about. For now, my plan for the car is to take it to open track days here in California and start building up my experience on the track. Over time (when budget allows) I'll modify the car to suit this purpose. I also plan on using it for weekend driving, still, so currently I'm not considering stripping it out and going full bore with it.

Right now, I'm compiling the "bare minimum" that I need to do to the car to make it reliable and usable at the track, including maintenance and mods.

This car has ~70K miles on it, and has supposedly been serviced based on the recommended Porsche intervals. The 60K maintenance was completed, and it has has a new OEM clutch as well. Based on this, it seems to me that the main maintenance item I want to take care of prior to taking it to the track is doing a transmission fluid change. As with everything, there seems to be a lot of back and forth on what fluid to use - I'm still trying to decide between the main 3 people suggest, Redline 75W-90NS, Mobil 1 Delvac 75W-90, and OEM fluid. Since I plan on using this car primarily for the track, I'm looking for the fluid that will best protect under heavy loads and heat, even if it means forgoing easier shifting when cold. Input welcome on this one.

Are the water pumps a concern on the 9A1? Any other maintenance items I missed or things I should check?

Onto the modifications - as I'm sure you all know, the consensus is that the LCAs are the first thing that need to be done to be able to setup proper track suspension geometry. I've been looking into pricing out the 996 GT3 LCAs (99634112190 and 99634112290), but it seems like the inner pieces (99634144190) are way more expensive than they used to be ($250+ ea). If I go this route it seems like getting a monoball inner is the way to go. Also looking into the aftermarket LCAs like the ones from RSS and Tarett. Seems like 20mm worth of spacers (including the litronic bracket spacer) is what I'll need. If anyone has a hookup on pricing, let me know.

Now, for brakes. Everyone seems to go with the GT3 front brake duct swap, so I'm going to grab those (99734148492 and 99734148392). I'll be doing a full flush with a high-temp fluid, and when I get the car I'll inspect the rotors to see if they have enough life left and not too much stress cracking. Brake pad choice is another one where there is no consensus (unsuprisingly) but it seems the two common choices are from PFC and Pagid. I also see a split in people that swap pads for track days, some say you'll lose performance doing that, some say it's just fine. Looking for your input and experience on this one.

I plan on trying to find a second set of 987 S 18" wheels so I can run some stickier tires and swap back to the PS4S on the street. If anyone has some at a reasonable price (especially if you're local, Northern California) let me know. Or if someone is selling any of the below items feel free to reach out.



Mod list update 11/26/20


Maintenance:

Transmission Fluid - Redline 75W-90NS
Coolant Flush - Pentosin Pentofrost++
Castrol SRF Brake Fluid
Track alignment, current specs: -2.8* F -2.3* R camber, 8.7* front caster, 0 toe front, .15 toe in rear (each side)
Ride height (hub to fender): 350mm front, 360mm rear
Rented durametric: Removed airbag light for driver's seat/passenger AWS, disabled TPMS, side markers as turn signals, comfort windows

Completed Mods:
"eBay" Short Shifter
Numeric Shifter Cable
RSS Front LCAs
Ohlins R&T coilovers
GT3 adjustable front swaybar, Tarett front drop link
Tarett GT rear swaybar, SPL drop link
Stomski Racing tie rods
Torque Solution toe links
Tarett Toe link lock plates
Ferodo DS1.11 brake pads (F/R)
Sebro Slotted Rotors (F/R)
GT3 front brake ducts
Center radiator
Apex Racing EC-7R wheels w/ Nitto NT-01
Technoversions brace
Race headers
OMP WRC-R Seat
GT2 extended seatbelt buckle
Brey Krause slider adapters
Top Gear valved exhaust
Function First "Soft" 60A engine mount insert w/ new OEM mount
Function First Transmission Mount Upgrade


Mod wishlist short-term:
Wheel studs
Tow hook
Rear Brake Ducts?

Mod wishlist long-term:
GT3 Master Cyl?
Rear LCAs
Other bushing/mount replacements?
Tune?


Let me know if I missed anything you think is essential Otherwise, input is welcome on anything, including recommendations on future mods, brands, etc. Hope to see a few of you out there on the track!
 
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#7 ·
I would agree that you will need a 3rd radiator and a older GT3 or 997 oil/water heat exchanger. These items will reduce you engine oil temperatures, The picture is from CSF web site who makes after market racing radiators. The center radiator in the picture is a GT3 997 radiator. The GT3 oil/water heat exchanger has over double the capacity of a 987.2 exchanger. I would recommend GT2 brake ducts in front, rather an GT3's. You might source a set of Numeric Racing shifter cables, as our OEM cables often break just before the transmission without warning.
Looks like all three of you replying are saying go for the radiator, so I'll be looking definitely shoot for adding one. Going to do some reading on the oil/water heat exchanger, GT2 ducts, and the shifter cables. I had seen some talk of those being a problem.


I'd opt for the Redline or the M1; my understanding is that your cold shifting might actually improve with the Redline.

I'd change the water pump while you are flushing the fluid.

Max camber possible in front, more in the rear, little bit of toe out.

I've tried a lot of pads, the PFCs 08 and the Pagid rs29. Much to my surprise, the PFCs were even louder on the street than the Pagids. I used to swap my stock Cayman R pads with the RS29s without issue and Pagid claims these pads are compatible. I've stopped swapping pads and I am too lazy to keep putting the car up an pulling the wheels -- I do not drive on the street that often, so the squealing is not a huge issue for me.

I'd add the GT3 M/C to the 'Essential Mods' list -- huge improvement in brake pedal feel, essential on the track.
Likewise, I'd also consider the third radiator a must for track duty. Since you are doing a coolant flush, this would be the time to add the radiator.

In my experience, it is really hard to beat NT01s for price/performance and durability. I really enjoy driving on them, nice and predictable.

Thanks for the tips on the fluids and water pump.

MAX camber huh? I was thinking shooting for something like -2.5 to -2.7? I hadn't dug into suggestions for exact alignment specs much yet.

I had read a lot of good about the RS29s. I'm not sure I would actually bother switching them out for street pads, either.

Noted about the master cyl! It's definitelty on the short list.

I've also read a lot of good things about the NT01s, they'll probably be my tires of choice also. Just on the lookout for a cheap set of 18" take offs.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I would agree that you will need a 3rd radiator and a older GT3 or 997 oil/water heat exchanger. These items will reduce you engine oil temperatures, The picture is from CSF web site who makes after market racing radiators. The center radiator in the picture is a GT3 997 radiator. The GT3 oil/water heat exchanger has over double the capacity of a 987.2 exchanger. I would recommend GT2 brake ducts in front, rather an GT3's. You might source a set of Numeric Racing shifter cables, as our OEM cables often break just before the transmission without warning.
 
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#6 · (Edited)
Hey everyone!

Maintenance:
Transmission Fluid - Redline 75W-90NS, Mobil 1 Delvac 75W-90, OEM?
Coolant Flush

Essential Mods:
Front LCAs - OEM or Aftermarket
Track alignment post LCA install - recommendations on specs?
High Temp Brake Fluid
Brake Pads - PFC? Pagid? Other?
GT3 Brake Ducts

Mod wishlist short-term:
Second set of 18" S take-offs
Track Tires - NT01?

Mod wishlist long-term:
Third Radiator
Rear Brake Ducts?
GT3 Master Cyl
Short Shifter
Front/rear swaybars + drop links - Tarett, ?
Rear LCAs
Front/Rear toe links
Coilovers - JRZ, Ohlins, ?
Other bushing/mount replacements?
Rear brace?
Track headers, exhaust
Tune


Let me know if I missed anything you think is essential Otherwise, input is welcome on anything, including recommendations on future mods, brands, etc. Hope to see a few of you out there on the track!
Nice purchase, the 987.2 is a great foundation for a track car! I track my '12 Cayman R and have researched and tested a lot of what you are asking about.


Maintenance:
YES: Transmission Fluid - Redline 75W-90NS, Mobil 1 Delvac 75W-90, OEM?
I'd opt for the Redline or the M1; my understanding is that your cold shifting might actually improve with the Redline.
YES: Coolant Flush
I'd change the water pump while you are flushing the fluid.

Essential Mods:
YES: Front LCAs - OEM or Aftermarket.
It is really a personal choice; if you plan to go bonkers on the suspension at some point, you might want to get solid monoball LCAs. For your combined street/track use model, the OEMs GT3 arms might be the best.

YES: Track alignment post LCA install - recommendations on specs?
Max camber possible in front, more in the rear, little bit of toe out.

YES: High Temp Brake Fluid

YES: Brake Pads - PFC? Pagid? Other?
I've tried a lot of pads, the PFCs 08 and the Pagid rs29. Much to my surprise, the PFCs were even louder on the street than the Pagids. I used to swap my stock Cayman R pads with the RS29s without issue and Pagid claims these pads are compatible. I've stopped swapping pads and I am too lazy to keep putting the car up an pulling the wheels -- I do not drive on the street that often, so the squealing is not a huge issue for me.

YES: GT3 Brake Ducts
Easily done.

I'd add the GT3 M/C to the 'Essential Mods' list -- huge improvement in brake pedal feel, essential on the track.
Likewise, I'd also consider the third radiator a must for track duty. Since you are doing a coolant flush, this would be the time to add the radiator.

In my experience, it is really hard to beat NT01s for price/performance and durability. I really enjoy driving on them, nice and predictable.

Cheers,
DJM
 
#9 ·
Hooo boy. I'm struggling here, guys. The slippery slope of parts is too real.

Good news is I scored a set of nice Cayman S 18" wheels for $300 shipped! Bad news is I have no idea what direction to go with my first suspension mods.

I spoke with RSS about getting a set of their front LCAs and I was informed that they are not compatible with stock S suspension (only lowered aftermarket or PASM, etc). I guess the geometry can cause binding. So, I got thrown down the path of looking for coilovers when I really wasn't planning on budgeting for them just yet. I've looked at everything from $800 Godspeeds to JRZ RS Pro and everything in-between. I want to do this right the first time, but I also am not sure I can blow $3000+ on coilovers right now on top of everything else.

Godspeed $800 - Junk but they do work as a stopgap and supposedly don't immediately fall apart. Weird set spring rates that are not ideal. One way adjustable, not rebuildable.

BC $950 -$1500 - Small step up but still not great.

Fortune Auto $1250-1600 - Quite a few fans, still using lots of Taiwanese sourced parts but with USA assembly, support, and engineering. One way adjustable, rebuildable, 5yr warranty, customizable. Comes with front camber plates.

Feal $1300-1800 - Again, more fans (especially import guys). Very similar to FA above, maybe better quality internals.

Bilstein PSS9 $2000 - People on these forums like these a lot. Single way adjustable, no custom spring rates (they're fairly soft compared to the other options).

KW V3 or Ohlins $2800-3000 - Two way adjustable from two reputable brands. Good stuff, just expensive. Ideally, I'd probably get one of these.

eBay Special used set of JRZ RS Pro $3900 - Pipe dream but while I'm justifying spending $500 more, $1000 more, $1500 more maybe it makes the most sense? 700/800lb spring rates though, that's probably overkill for me.


You're all welcome to throw out your opinions though I'd imagine they're not super different to what I've read all over the internet. As far as the budget options go - I am kinda considering going with Feal, I can get a set of their coilovers (400lb/500lb) with swift springs, camber plates, and radial bearings for about $1500. They have good reviews from other vehicles but I have seen nothing about the 987, only a couple other Porsche models. Should I step up to PSS9s, or even V3s? Is it worth the $500-$1500? Two-way adjustability might be something I wish I had down the road. While we're on the conversation of budget, too, the Feals come with camber plates for the front which means I might be able to get by with those and no front LCAs (at least for a while). That's an $1100+ saving...
 
#10 ·
#11 · (Edited)
You paid a good price for an excellant ride, why screw it up with suspenion parts that are suspect to start. How would you feel going 130 mph and a shock barrel failed or some other part that really was not built to withstand the rigor of a Cayman S, when pushed hard. If you want a true system, Ohlins R&T with their DFV internals is an excellant choice to start with. I have had mine for 3 years without an issue. Once you start this process, of tearing apart the f and r suspension for shocks, its a great time to add the LCA's of your choice or camber plates with monoball that rattle after a while. JoshuaJ can give you an excellant deal for both Ohlins and GT3 LCA's with solid thrust bearings and mono bearing on the inside. Just those two parts (Ohlins & GT3 LCA's) are a real good start to an excellant suspenion program.

After the install you will need a competition alignment with corner balance to take advantage of the coilover setup. Your installer/alignment expert hopefully can add the full amount of spacers to the LCA's (20mm) and still give you the toe in in the rear with the drop (lowering) you request. Sometimes adjustable toe links are required in the rear to get the alignment to workout with lowered Caymans. So source these before you have your shop take off all the parts, only to say they need those toe links to complete the job, just a word of warning, could take a couple of days to get the ones you want to the shop. Call or PM Joshua, he can help start the ball rolling.
 
#13 · (Edited)
I appreciate the response guys, I'll definitely get back to this and respond appropriately but for now I have an "emergency".

Picked up the car and made it about 20 miles. Entering the freeway I suddenly lost the ability to shift. The shifter moves up and down in the 3-4 slot I believe but doesn't change gears so I'm stuck in one of them. Shifter doesn't move side to side at all.

I'm awaiting a tow now (yay for AAA). The clutch was recently done on the car (and is still working)... Does this sound like a snapped cable? Maybe something wasn't fastened all the way after the clutch job?

Guess I may have to pull it apart to find out. If anyone wants to link relevant DIYs or threads please feel free. ?

The 20 miles I did get were pretty glorious though! I already know I'm going to love this car.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Hyrax- You have two options for shifter cables, Numeric steel cables, which I use along with their short shifter, and the new OEM version of the older cable that stranded you. These cable are different, in their design and feel. The Numeric cables are tough, built to last and do transmit NHV to some degree. They also allow you to feel the detents of the transmission on each shift, which helps downshifting, especially into 1st gear. Numeric does have a sound deading cable tube that you can add for $30.00, which I recommend.
The new Porsche OEM version changes the support of the cable around the transmission to alleviate the sharp bend, there the cable usually breaks. This support needs some technical skills to install, but once that is accomplished you will have a silkly smooth shifter cable that will most likely last the rest of the cars usage. So, your choice as both are about the same price. Silky smooth, harder to install, no tranmission detent feeling or proven steel cables that are designed to last in a racing environment, easier to install, yet do increase the NHV, but can be addressed with cable insulation.
 
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#18 · (Edited)
Everyone has a different opinion on *what you need* and often these track build threads become more confusing than clarifying. I will be an outlier here and suggest you find a good local Porsche indy shop to handle your track setup. If they put a lot of cars on the podium, trust their judgement with specific mods and alignment and don't get too hung up on brand names or internet chatter. These guys have been playing this game for a while and know the tracks in your area so they will recommend a mild build that will serve you well. This is what I did with my 987.2 and the car has been bulletproof over 50 track days, regularly running in the advanced instructor group at the pointy end of the time sheet for street cars.

My dual purpose mild build with 3 PCA TT Championships since 2015:

GT3 arms and lowering springs
Fresh Motul 600 brake fluid
Raybestos ST-43 pads or RS-29
Slotted Sebro rotors
GT3 brake ducts
NT-01 or RE-71r tires
Alignment and corner balance, Camber: -2.5*F, -2.0*R
Stock interior, stock motor, stock software
My car is a 2.9L and I don't hit the track during hot summer months. I have not yet need a center rad but a 3.4L generates more heat and definitely needs one.
 
#19 ·
Everyone has a different opinion on *what you need* and often these track build threads become more confusing than clarifying.
Isn't that the truth! Well, thank you for your opinion and I definitely will keep it in mind.

I did finally get my car on the road a couple of weeks ago. Turns out, installing those Numeric cables with an IPD TB/Plenum is a real nightmare. Apparently, they offer slightly longer ones upon request for that application but I didn't know that in advance. I did get it to work though, ended up removing the TB/Plenum so it could be threaded underneath.

I am headed out on my longest drive in the car over this weekend. Going from Sacramento to Santa Cruz (might head up and over via 9) and then Sunday I'm headed from Santa Cruz out to Oakdale where I think I'll drove up and over Mt. Hamilton. Should give me a chance to stretch its legs a bit!

Going to be keeping an eye out for Memorial Day sales this weekend, if anyone wants to contribute what they find in that regard I may be enticed into some purchasing. :)
 
#20 ·
The driving this weekend went great, no issues and this car feels effortless.

I spent a good amount of time clay barring, polishing, and waxing the paint and it looks so much better now. It clearly hadn't been maintained as well as it should have. Still shows its age and mileage but from a few feet you can't tell!

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Rim Wheel


I've ended up ordering Ohlins R&T along with RSS LCAs. I think I'll be offloading my IPD Competition plenum + 84MM TB in the nearish future to help pay for these mods. I'd rather focus on suspension and track mods and I doubt I'm getting much out of the intake without a tune, anyway`. If anyone's interested shoot me a PM.

The only new thing to fix that I've found so far is some clunkiness when shifting or getting on/off the throttle. Seems like maybe the engine/trans mounts may be worn or just too soft. I was reading some threads on upgrades to these earlier and I'll be looking into doing that soon too.
 
#21 ·
You're going to enjoy the Ohlins, it's a great setup for dual purpose cars! When you're ready for custom valving or to step up to double adjustables let me know :)
 
#23 ·
You're going to enjoy the Ohlins, it's a great setup for dual purpose cars! When you're ready for custom valving or to step up to double adjustables let me know
Definitely will do. I was planning on getting them through you but found a deal I couldn't pass up. Thanks for working with me.

So, now you have Numeric shifter cables and soon to be installed Ohlins R&T and RSS LCA's. First, a plan for your installer; ask that the Ohlins be set up with a 30 mm drop to start with 4 mm of preload (2 mm is recommended) . Then if your shop has the ability to corner balance with the necessary weight (your approx weight) applied to the driver seat and the use of adjustable down links for the swaybars. Lowering with Ohlins reduces weight transfer across the car as well as front to back resulting in better turnin, mid corner balance and throttle response. Lowering, Pedro's Techobrace, and a solid thrust puck on your new RSS LCA's all help to prevent fishtailing on threshold braking in the rear and add more accurate turnin.

Ask that your shop give you a slight rake with the front just a little lower than the rear. Not much is needed here to help reduce understeer. I use adjustable sway bars or even better a little wider tire in front to reduce understeer. I have had great sucess with 255/35/18 f and 275/35/18 r either with Michelin 4S (daily) or Bridgestone RE71R's (track). I use both.
Thank you for the suggestions on initial setup. I will definitely pass that on to the shop. Adjustable swaybars and drop links are on the list to get get soon! I saw you suggesting that technobrace when reading some older threads earlier and will look into it too. I've got some PS4S for daily and picked up a second set of stock wheels to eventually put RE71Rs on.

Function First make a great motor mount insert (Orange color) to reduce the motor movement. I bought one, my installer showed me the origninal motor mount that was actually coming apart at 40K (maybe your clunking noise). So, luckily, he sourced a new OEM one within 1 hour delivered and I had my car back in 2 hours with a new OEM motor mount and the Orange insert in place. Now, my car is like a Kart, very little lean in the corners, not much weight tranfer in the slalom where the engine weight is noticeable if not controlled. The tranmission mounts are another story. I prefer to use the OEM mounts at this point. Yes I do have a little wheel hop from standing wheel spin start, but not much NVH.
I think I have read about that insert elsehwere and that looked like a good solution. Glad you agree.

Then, have sourced rear toe links if needed to get the correct toe with the dropped suspension, so your car is not in the shop waiting for these parts to be delivered. Request your shop to start with 20mm shims in the LCA's first before they use the OEM camber adjusters front and rear. That way you will increase your track to reduce weight transfer across the car. You can achieve -2.7 f and -2.5 r camber without much inside wear by having the toe alignment set at 0 front and -12 minutes in the rear.
You think I'll need rear toe links immediately for this setup? I can look into those I hadn't heard that was a requirement to get proper alignment after the coilovers and drop. Is -2.7f and -2.5f what you run? I think I have read a lot of people like to run a .5 difference front to rear. You're also running wider tires up front and adjustable sways which I imagine will affect this a lot. I plan to get there just not right away. I've got the stock tire sizes on the PS4S that came on the car.

The solid LCA's solid thrust pucks allow even more aggressive toe if wanted as well as caster and wheelbase adjustments. Aggressive toe would be toe out 5 minutes in front. This alignment works well with wider tires to get them to turnin quickly. I have not found any down side even at high speed or lane changes across truck wear tracks in freeway driving with this setup, but know the inside tire shoulder will wear more with this setup and -2.7 camber vs 0 toe.

Great job on suspension selection for a dual purpose car.
Makes sense on the toe settings. I'll likely stick to 0 for now but potentially change it down the road.
 
#22 · (Edited)
So, now you have Numeric shifter cables and soon to be installed Ohlins R&T and RSS LCA's. First, a plan for your installer; ask that the Ohlins be set up with a 30 mm drop to start with 4 mm of preload (2 mm is recommended) . Then if your shop has the ability to corner balance with the necessary weight (your approx weight) applied to the driver seat and the use of adjustable down links for the swaybars. Lowering with Ohlins reduces weight transfer across the car as well as front to back resulting in better turnin, mid corner balance and throttle response. Lowering, Pedro's Techobrace, and a solid thrust puck on your new RSS LCA's all help to prevent fishtailing on threshold braking in the rear and add more accurate turnin.

Ask that your shop give you a slight rake with the front just a little lower than the rear. Not much is needed here to help reduce understeer. I use adjustable sway bars or even better a little wider tire in front to reduce understeer. I have had great sucess with 255/35/18 f and 275/35/18 r with Michelin 4S (daily), Bridgestone RE71R's (track) or Hoosier A7's. I use then all.

Function First make a great motor mount insert (Orange color) to reduce the motor movement. I bought one, my installer showed me the original motor mount that was actually coming apart at 40K (maybe your clunking noise). So, luckily, he sourced a new OEM one within 1 hour delivered and I had my car back in 2 hours with a new OEM motor mount and the Orange insert in place. Now, my car is like a Kart, very little lean in the corners, not much weight transfer in the slalom where the engine weight is noticeable if not controlled. The transmission mounts are another story. I prefer to use the OEM mounts at this point. However I have read that GT3 OEM mounts are very effective and modest NVH. Yes I do have a little wheel hop from standing wheel spin start, but not much NVH from the old OEM set.

Then, have sourced rear toe links if needed to get the correct toe with the dropped suspension, so your car is not in the shop waiting for these parts to be delivered. Request your shop to start with 20mm shims in the LCA's first before they use the OEM camber adjusters front and rear. That way you will increase your track to reduce weight transfer across the car. You can achieve -2.7 f and -2.5 r camber without much inside wear by having the toe alignment set at 0 front and -12 minutes in the rear.

The solid LCA's solid thrust pucks allow even more aggressive toe if wanted as well as caster (8.5-9.0) and wheelbase adjustments. Aggressive toe would be toe out 5 minutes in front. This alignment works well with wider tires to get them to turnin quickly. I have not found any down side even at high speed or lane changes across truck wear tracks in freeway driving with this setup, but know the inside tire shoulder will wear more with this setup and -2.7 camber and 5 minutes of toe out vs 0 toe and less camber.

Great job on suspension selection for a dual purpose car.
 
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#25 · (Edited)
You may know that there are two stages of lights in the rear. If you pull the light knob all the way out, it turns on a bright red light on the left hand side that is not duplicated on the right side. This light is European by design for foggy weather. Maybe that is what the someone saw. I had a good friend follow me one night to tell me that my taillights were out of balance. I had no idea that I had pulled out the light switch to the second stage that night. It took me a month to figure out what happened.
 
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#26 ·
You may know that there are two stages of lights in the rear. If you pull the light knob all the way out, it turns on a bright red light on the left hand side that is not duplicated on the right side. This light is European by design for foggy weather. Maybe that is what the someone saw. I had a good friend follow me one night to tell me that my taillights were out of balance. I had no idea that I had pulled out the light switch to the second stag that night. It took me a month to figure out what happened.
I'll have to test this, but I did have the knob pulled out so my fog lights would be on while the headlights are on, so that does sound like it would be what I saw!

That's a really odd design, I've never seen that before. Do you know what the reasoning is? Somehow better visibility? Good to know nothing is likely broken, though. I would probably have saved up for those aftermarket 981 look-alikes.

Side note - IPD Competition Plenum removed!

Auto part Fuel tank Vehicle City car Car
 
#27 · (Edited)
Yep, you can visually see the difference between the left side lens and the right one. Most of the high end Europeaon cars have this lighting feature on their cars, especially the German ones. The car behind you can visually see that single red light for some additional distance, which helps avoid rear end collisions in the fog and hard extreme weather (snow, sleet, heavy rain) a night.
 
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#28 ·
Lots of performance upgrades for a novice driver. I opted for roll bar, race seats, 5pt and head restraint when I was promoted to blue for safety. A stock 987.2 is very capable on the track especially for beginner run groups. Other options installed but not mentioned thus far, maybe I missed it, is a Guard LSD and GT3 MC with the GT3 brake booster (996.355.923.90). Since green run group I've used Sebro slotted rotors, PFC08 (no squeal on the street in contrast to someones post) and Castrol SRF. I don't fuss swapping out pads as the car is used mainly at the track. I also suggest signing signing up for Speed Weekly and invest in ApexPro and GoPro to record/analyze your sessions. My next upgrade is the suspension (MCS), headers and Softronic tune.
 
#29 ·
You're saying I have a lot of performance mods currently? Not the case, I'm mostly compiling a list of potentially worthwhile things to install over time. Currently, it's just LCAs and Ohlins. I didn't plan to do coilovers so quickly but want to get proper alignment and the LCAs can't be installed with stock height suspension. No use wasting money on springs on a car with probably worn dampers, either, I'd rather just do it once.

On the short(ish) list:
Brake pads (maybe rotors), fluid, ducts
3rd radiator

I should update my list sometime soon.

I've read some good things about getting an LSD installed. GT3 MC is on the list also. Thanks for your suggestion on brakes. As far as datalogging goes, I was recently looking at the AiM SOlO DL so I can read data out of CAN bus (like oil temp, real coolant temp, etc). I'd be interested to hear what people have and their opinions.

Where I'm at in the Sacramento area we just went from a record amount of rain to a couple degrees under triple digits... high track temps are here.
 
#30 ·
I realize you're thinking ahead with staged investments. Just making a point about adding proper restraints to your list, that's all. The advice received thus far has been excellent and from drivers with far more experience than me. Here is a good thread to get you started on the data acquisition https://caymanregister.org/showthread.php?t=35368

As much as I would like to get a Vbox or Aim I've prioritized the suspension work.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Haha don't worry, that list is very limited by my budget. I'm 25 and recently purchased my first house, in California no less. I don't have much extra budget for these things currently, couldn't upgrade everything even if I wanted to!

Thanks for the link! I still need to register for PCA.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Well your personal info says a lot about you! 25 and owning a California house, thats quite a budget you got going. I will be respectful of that in the future, which puts the Ohlins and RSS LCA's into a whole new catigory. I took 2 years of ownership to get my set of Ohlins installed. Then another 9 months of tire shoulder wear to get some Tarett Cup LCA's installed along with Tarett's GT swaybars and downlinks. Now, after digesting all of the suspension components into a smooth driving track machine, that's easily converted to the street, I feel this journey was worth it. My wife still complains about the bumpy ride, usually do to the compression/rebound adjustment "not" set to daily mode (12 clicks from full stiff). Track is now 5 clicks f and 7 clicks r. Just my preference of a wider front tire and a stiffer rebound/compression setting in front. The rear end seems planted (roll rate balance f to r) with the 2 click's softer.

The sway bars now at the third hole f (out of 5) and 2nd hole (from soft) in the rear for an overall (moderate rate) which takes away the inherent understeer. These setting are just a little stiffer than your OEM sway bars. I have tried very stiff f and r swaybar setting, but just made the car slide around more, eventhough it was flatter in the corners. The swaybar setting affect the spring rate by adding to it the twist effect, like a torson bar. So, just know that when you are ready to add the adjustable swaybars to your suspension, you will be adding more spring rate to the 400 lbs/in f and 458 lbs/in rate in the rear springs on the Ohlins. This is well below those track guys that use 550 lbs/in in front and 700 lbs/in in the rear mounted on their dual adjustable JRZ's with remote cannisters along with monster sway bars and say they have no problems on bumpy back country roads. I want a dual purpose car for 80% daily drivability over the concrete expansion joints, railroad tracks and other road uneven surfaces that would upset these tightly controlled track setups.

The drop of the car is about 36mm due to the corner balance and rake alignment requirements, just for reference. I rub my front wind defectors and sometimes my GT2 brake ducts on driveway ramps and speed bumps. But they are complable/replaceable, so no worries.
 
#33 · (Edited)
Well your personal info says a lot about you! 25 and owning a California house, thats quite a budget you got going. After digesting all of the suspension components into a smooth driving track machine, that's easily converted to the street, I feel this journey was worth it. My wife still complains about the bumpy ride, usually do to the compression/rebound adjustment "not" set to daily mode (12 clicks from full stiff). Track is now 5 clicks f and 7 clicks r. Just my preference of a wider front tire and a stiffer rebound/compression setting in front. The rear end seems planted (roll rate balance f to r) with the 2 click's softer.
Yes sir, it's a tight budget but I make it work. I have a decent amount of DIY mechanical experience so I'll be installing these coilovers and LCAs myself here soon. The weather decided it doesn't want to cooperate, though, because it's supposed to be 101-103 the next couple days and mid 90s the whole rest of the 10 day forecast... I'll have to take it slow. I've been doing some reading on the install process and it looks pretty tedious, though pretty similar in nature to the Focus ST I owned. The car will be down for a little while!

Based on everything I've seen you post it certainly seems like your car is configured very well and is a good one to emulate. I have never owned an adjustable coilover setup like this so I will need to do some reading on compression and rebound adjustments.

The sway bars now at the third hole f (out of 5) and 2nd hole (from soft) in the rear for an overall (moderate rate) which takes away the inherent understeer. These setting are just a little stiffer than your OEM sway bars. I want a dual purpose car for 80% daily drivability over the concrete expansion joints, railroad tracks and other road uneven surfaces that would upset these tightly controlled track setups.
I am in the same camp as far as usage for the car. Good to know about your swaybar setup and dialing out that understeer. I did some hard mountain driving this weekend up and over the Sonora pass and learned a lot more about the character of the car. I definitely found that understeer and the fade point for the stock pads (come to think of it though, I have no idea what pads are in there). I will say though, that even as stock and worn as this car is, it does handle and grip fantastically, and the power of the brakes surprised me. It's so balanced and it loves to go fast!

The drop of the car is about 36mm due to the corner balance and rake alignment requirements, just for reference. I rub my front wind defectors and sometimes my GT2 brake ducts on driveway ramps and speed bumps. But they are complable/replaceable, so no worries.
The wind deflectors being these guys? https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/987C2LIP.html

I'll have to see how far I want to lower it. I'd like to retain some usability so it sounds like 36mm would definitely be at the edge of that. Luckily my driveway is very flat but I do plan on driving the car on trips and such where I'm sure I'll run into not so favorable road heights.

By the way - If anyone has run across good guides or information regarding the coilover install process on a 987 please post some links. Best I've found is this one on a 981 but I'm sure the process is pretty similar. Also, I just took a look on Ohlins website and I see they've got instructions for a POS MR80 kit (labeled "Porsche 986 and 987 Boxster/Cayman") and POZ MR80 kit (labeled "Porsche 987 Boxster/Cayman Front"). The part number on my box says POS MR80 but now I'm not sure if that's correct, I guess I need to call them.
 
#35 ·
The rear is more complicated due to the abundance of trim to be removed -- hopefully without breaking or losing any bits in the process. Good luck with the remainder of the installation!

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 
#37 ·
I found that my passenger side strut bearing was a little crunchy like it had some dirt in it. Rather than trying to clean and re-grease I just decided to order a new set. $40 each (part number 99634351505) isn't too bad for peace of mind. Never noticed any noises coming from it like I've read in a few threads but if I can avoid pulling that apart again I will! I just remembered to get my GT3 ducts ordered too.
 
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