You're going to enjoy the Ohlins, it's a great setup for dual purpose cars! When you're ready for custom valving or to step up to double adjustables let me know
Definitely will do. I was planning on getting them through you but found a deal I couldn't pass up. Thanks for working with me.You're going to enjoy the Ohlins, it's a great setup for dual purpose cars! When you're ready for custom valving or to step up to double adjustables let me know
Thank you for the suggestions on initial setup. I will definitely pass that on to the shop. Adjustable swaybars and drop links are on the list to get get soon! I saw you suggesting that technobrace when reading some older threads earlier and will look into it too. I've got some PS4S for daily and picked up a second set of stock wheels to eventually put RE71Rs on.So, now you have Numeric shifter cables and soon to be installed Ohlins R&T and RSS LCA's. First, a plan for your installer; ask that the Ohlins be set up with a 30 mm drop to start with 4 mm of preload (2 mm is recommended) . Then if your shop has the ability to corner balance with the necessary weight (your approx weight) applied to the driver seat and the use of adjustable down links for the swaybars. Lowering with Ohlins reduces weight transfer across the car as well as front to back resulting in better turnin, mid corner balance and throttle response. Lowering, Pedro's Techobrace, and a solid thrust puck on your new RSS LCA's all help to prevent fishtailing on threshold braking in the rear and add more accurate turnin.
Ask that your shop give you a slight rake with the front just a little lower than the rear. Not much is needed here to help reduce understeer. I use adjustable sway bars or even better a little wider tire in front to reduce understeer. I have had great sucess with 255/35/18 f and 275/35/18 r either with Michelin 4S (daily) or Bridgestone RE71R's (track). I use both.
I think I have read about that insert elsehwere and that looked like a good solution. Glad you agree.Function First make a great motor mount insert (Orange color) to reduce the motor movement. I bought one, my installer showed me the origninal motor mount that was actually coming apart at 40K (maybe your clunking noise). So, luckily, he sourced a new OEM one within 1 hour delivered and I had my car back in 2 hours with a new OEM motor mount and the Orange insert in place. Now, my car is like a Kart, very little lean in the corners, not much weight tranfer in the slalom where the engine weight is noticeable if not controlled. The tranmission mounts are another story. I prefer to use the OEM mounts at this point. Yes I do have a little wheel hop from standing wheel spin start, but not much NVH.
You think I'll need rear toe links immediately for this setup? I can look into those I hadn't heard that was a requirement to get proper alignment after the coilovers and drop. Is -2.7f and -2.5f what you run? I think I have read a lot of people like to run a .5 difference front to rear. You're also running wider tires up front and adjustable sways which I imagine will affect this a lot. I plan to get there just not right away. I've got the stock tire sizes on the PS4S that came on the car.Then, have sourced rear toe links if needed to get the correct toe with the dropped suspension, so your car is not in the shop waiting for these parts to be delivered. Request your shop to start with 20mm shims in the LCA's first before they use the OEM camber adjusters front and rear. That way you will increase your track to reduce weight transfer across the car. You can achieve -2.7 f and -2.5 r camber without much inside wear by having the toe alignment set at 0 front and -12 minutes in the rear.
Makes sense on the toe settings. I'll likely stick to 0 for now but potentially change it down the road.The solid LCA's solid thrust pucks allow even more aggressive toe if wanted as well as caster and wheelbase adjustments. Aggressive toe would be toe out 5 minutes in front. This alignment works well with wider tires to get them to turnin quickly. I have not found any down side even at high speed or lane changes across truck wear tracks in freeway driving with this setup, but know the inside tire shoulder will wear more with this setup and -2.7 camber vs 0 toe.
Great job on suspension selection for a dual purpose car.
I'll have to test this, but I did have the knob pulled out so my fog lights would be on while the headlights are on, so that does sound like it would be what I saw!You may know that there are two stages of lights in the rear. If you pull the light knob all the way out, it turns on a bright red light on the left hand side that is not duplicated on the right side. This light is European by design for foggy weather. Maybe that is what the someone saw. I had a good friend follow me one night to tell me that my taillights were out of balance. I had no idea that I had pulled out the light switch to the second stag that night. It took me a month to figure out what happened.
You're saying I have a lot of performance mods currently? Not the case, I'm mostly compiling a list of potentially worthwhile things to install over time. Currently, it's just LCAs and Ohlins. I didn't plan to do coilovers so quickly but want to get proper alignment and the LCAs can't be installed with stock height suspension. No use wasting money on springs on a car with probably worn dampers, either, I'd rather just do it once.Lots of performance upgrades for a novice driver. I opted for roll bar, race seats, 5pt and head restraint when I was promoted to blue for safety. A stock 987.2 is very capable on the track especially for beginner run groups. Other options installed but not mentioned thus far, maybe I missed it, is a Guard LSD and GT3 MC with the GT3 brake booster (996.355.923.90). Since green run group I've used Sebro slotted rotors, PFC08 (no squeal on the street in contrast to someones post) and Castrol SRF. I don't fuss swapping out pads as the car is used mainly at the track. I also suggest signing signing up for Speed Weekly and invest in ApexPro and GoPro to record/analyze your sessions. My next upgrade is the suspension (MCS), headers and Softronic tune.
I realize you're thinking ahead with staged investments. Just making a point about adding proper restraints to your list, that's all. The advice received thus far has been excellent and from drivers with far more experience than me. Here is a good thread to get you started on the data acquisition https://caymanregister.org/showthread.php?t=35368
As much as I would like to get a Vbox or Aim I've prioritized the suspension work.
Yes sir, it's a tight budget but I make it work. I have a decent amount of DIY mechanical experience so I'll be installing these coilovers and LCAs myself here soon. The weather decided it doesn't want to cooperate, though, because it's supposed to be 101-103 the next couple days and mid 90s the whole rest of the 10 day forecast... I'll have to take it slow. I've been doing some reading on the install process and it looks pretty tedious, though pretty similar in nature to the Focus ST I owned. The car will be down for a little while!Well your personal info says a lot about you! 25 and owning a California house, thats quite a budget you got going. After digesting all of the suspension components into a smooth driving track machine, that's easily converted to the street, I feel this journey was worth it. My wife still complains about the bumpy ride, usually do to the compression/rebound adjustment "not" set to daily mode (12 clicks from full stiff). Track is now 5 clicks f and 7 clicks r. Just my preference of a wider front tire and a stiffer rebound/compression setting in front. The rear end seems planted (roll rate balance f to r) with the 2 click's softer.
I am in the same camp as far as usage for the car. Good to know about your swaybar setup and dialing out that understeer. I did some hard mountain driving this weekend up and over the Sonora pass and learned a lot more about the character of the car. I definitely found that understeer and the fade point for the stock pads (come to think of it though, I have no idea what pads are in there). I will say though, that even as stock and worn as this car is, it does handle and grip fantastically, and the power of the brakes surprised me. It's so balanced and it loves to go fast!The sway bars now at the third hole f (out of 5) and 2nd hole (from soft) in the rear for an overall (moderate rate) which takes away the inherent understeer. These setting are just a little stiffer than your OEM sway bars. I want a dual purpose car for 80% daily drivability over the concrete expansion joints, railroad tracks and other road uneven surfaces that would upset these tightly controlled track setups.
The wind deflectors being these guys? https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/987C2LIP.htmlThe drop of the car is about 36mm due to the corner balance and rake alignment requirements, just for reference. I rub my front wind defectors and sometimes my GT2 brake ducts on driveway ramps and speed bumps. But they are complable/replaceable, so no worries.
The rear is more complicated due to the abundance of trim to be removed -- hopefully without breaking or losing any bits in the process. Good luck with the remainder of the installation!One corner out! Fronts are pretty easy. I read the rear is a little more challenging due to the axles.
This is my first time owning a car with coilovers and suspension this adjustable. I now have some questions regarding the alignment, coilovers in general, and the suggestions you gave.The drop of the car is about 36mm due to the corner balance and rake alignment requirements, just for reference. I rub my front wind defectors and sometimes my GT2 brake ducts on driveway ramps and speed bumps. But they are complable/replaceable, so no worries.
Oh I know it, haha. I understand what the preload is for, I'm more wondering what actual benefit you get from 4mm vs 2mm. If 2mm prevents the slack then why do 4mm.Hyrax, you are going down the slipperly slope now. preloading the Ohlins help in compression then droop phase, where the car's front wheels are unweighted. The preload will prevent the springs from becoming slack on the droop phase. It sort of takes the place of helper springs on other setups. My shop did this to their Ohlin installations. It does take away about 2 mm of threads on the outside of the shock body. Even with that 4 mm of preload, down the raod about 3 years, I can still rotate the front springs when I change my tires after an event.
It definitely sounds like you have it setup very well. The difference in camber makes sense with your configuration as I suspected. I'll just have to get mine done as best I can with the parts I have installed now. The mods and changes will continue down the road. Like you said, slippery slope haha.The camber difference between f and r is different on my car due to using 255/35/18 f, so I can use a little more negative camber in the rear past the magic -.5 camber number difference. I find that running with this setup allows a little more throttle induced rotation mid corner, which allows for 4 wheel drifting in some corners with full power down. That is 295+ power, which is not enough to break lose the 275/35/18's RE71R's on the rear. I suspect that if I had the clearance under my skid plate to use 285/30/18 RE71R's, I would be asking for the same or even more camber in the rear than the front as Lovetoturn does with his 981 using that combo. I am currently useing -2.7f and-2.5r camber. Car balance is very important to me, that is why I have this setup with my S motor torque curve. More power would require a bigger tire in the rear or a LSD, but so far the RE71R's are well balanced. I will soon see how the car reacts to new Hoosier A-7's being used at the next track event in a couple of weeks. They are the same dementions as my other tires.
I did try to get the outer tie rod loose to so a rough adjustment myself but didn't have any luck (though I was tired and didn't try too hard). I've had good luck with using AAA for situations like this. Getting my money's worth!Your home wrenching does present some alignment issues. Some guys actually have great sucess with string to get close to 0 toe in front. Rear is going to be a problem without adjustable toe links. Simply not enough adjustment available using the OEM adjuster to get the correct toe in with a dropped Ohlin car. Especially if you have had it corner balanced, which I highly recommend so that your turnin cross weight shift is the same both directions (add the front right weight to the left rear and match it to the left front to the right rear). Your shop will try to get these precent numbers to be as close as possible. This is where the benefit of changing the ride height on each corner really comes in handy. Some cars are nearly perfect, while others not so much.
Seems like based on this I might be able to get -2.7F and -2.2R camber with proper rear toe. I'd be happy with that for now.Your spings will settle and change the calculations over a month or so. I did not have that time line to play with so they installed the Ohlins and did the corner balance. I also did not have the adjustable rear toe links to complete the job in the first place which left me with -2.2 rear camber. So 6 months later, I had the shop do the job correctly with the adj toe links, which included a hammer to the right rear sub frame perch, which was installed incorrectly at the factory. The hammer and the adjustable toe links did their work, allowing the 12 minutes of toe in in the rear with -2.5 camber. I also had the shop do a bumpsteer adjustment on all 4 corners. I was not present when they did this so not sure how accurate their method was, but just looking at the washers above and below the outer ball joint of the rear toe link, I can see they are different.
About how much rake would you suggest?Changing the ride height does change the camber. Also you might want to address the rake angle of your car to assure you do have a little rake front to back. Not too much. I like my car setup to almost 0 rake. Since I do not have a LSD, I need a little more rear weight over the tires. The trade off is threshold braking becoming less stable from rear wobble if gone too much rake and understeer if not enough rake.