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987 SPP (Sound Package Plus) Speakers - Not BOSE

3474 Views 74 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  orbit398
Hey gang,

Just wanted to follow up here with some cool information about replacing and upgrading my busted 987 SPP (Sound Package Plus -- NOT BOSE) speakers in my 2010 Boxster. After 255K miles, the door speakers were toast likely due to heat, humidity, and just plain wear -- as 242K of those miles from the original based Georgia original owner. Plus, as the interior was looking a bit sorry when I bought the car, I wouldn't be surprised if the last owner just blasted the speakers until they tore.

This being said, although I'm a musician -- I'm admittedly not a die-hard audiophile when listening to recordings. Plus, I simply don't have the funds to spend a fortune on this project. I figured that if I could get something that would be close enough to the great BOSE sound in my former 987.1S and my current 981 Outlaw, that would be more than fine with me. I want a full sound with crisp highs and deep lows; it's about fun music on the road while also enjoying the song of the flat-6 engine; I don't need studio monitoring perfection. I also didn't want to spend the time or money on a dedicated amp, subwoofer, and extra wiring. I also don't need a subwoofer powerful enough to loosen ceiling tiles or tooth fillings. Finally, I wanted to do this once and do this right for the life of the car -- especially as the DIY door card removals can apparently be very trying on a 987.

Going back a bit, I already had the crappy ASK amplifier tested, and that wasn't the problem per the original hiss and buzz. So after dropping in an inexpensive (new-in-box) Sony head unit last year with CarPlay (that I bought for $175 on Craig's List last winter), that was a help. Plus, I already did the rear parcel shelf speaker project (4x Kicker speakers) last summer which helped create better audio imaging in the cabin. So, replacement speakers were the next stop on my audio journey as the original OEM speakers were clearly burnt toast.

Anyhow, after tons of searching, a lot of people had various opinions on how to best accomplish this on a budget. A lot of people weighed in with different solutions on the 987 Owners Group (Facebook), and the solutions were dizzying. A key issue at play involves the shallow door depth and finding shallow speakers that would fit. Apparently Audion speakers fit just great and are fantastic, but they are wicked expensive and I don't think they'd perform well when powered by the low wattage ASK amp. Was there anything reasonably affordable, yet simple out there?

Well, a lot of people have replaced their OEM 8" speakers with various inexpensive 6.5" speakers, and re-using the original 8" speaker grill. As I don't have a subwoofer and didn't want to make a monster project of this, I wanted as closest to the 8" I could get.

In short, I've pulled the trigger on Focals. These didn't seem nose-bleed expensive but are apparently a great upgrade from OEM. I figured since I was already doing the replacement, it was time to pay the money to replace the mids by the same manufacturer, and ideally have them match.

So as of writing this (March 2023), here's what I just ordered from WoofersEtc.com this afternoon:

IS200 - Focal 8" 2-Way Component Speaker System with Grills
Focal ISN-4 Shallow 4" 40 Watt RMS Mid Woofers

So, the cool thing is that I reached out to customer service at WoofersEtc.com -- and was able to obtain a promotional discount for me to share with you: At checkout, enter in promotional code Porsche5 -- which will give you an extra 5% off your purchase (as of writing this). That drove the price down to just under $400 (free ground shipping and no sales tax) -- which seemed great for what I was getting. FYI - they didn't give me any special discount for passing this info on, Food Biker / Road Feast promotional consideration, or any of that. This was simply one of those things where they encouraged me to pass on the code, and gestures like a small discount are always worth sharing. :)

Anyhow, the ASK system (SPP) seems pretty obscure as most of the 987 systems appear to be BOSE. There were no clear wiring diagrams easily available...and it took a while to figure out how to get the rear speakers going last summer (I forget what I tapped into down at the ASK amp). You can read up on the rear speaker project elsewhere -- it's easily found online as many people have done this before. Basically I set up two sets of ~3" Kicker speakers in parallel, which then directly tapped off the ASK amp. This AMP, BTW -- is under the passenger seat on a 987.2 and may be in the frunk on 987.1 models.

Meanwhile, a really cool guy on Facebook (in the aforementioned group) named Lyndon Conrad Bell (Thanks, Lyndon!!!) steered me towards these speakers and already gave me a ton of great advice. He made and posted this amazing ASK diagram, which really helps make sense of things:

Product Organism Rectangle Font Circle


So as you can see, The head unit drives the 4" door speakers. Wired in parallel to these are the front L and R channels, which are apparently easily replaced with the tweeters that come with the 8" woofers. I think the passive crossovers from Focal go in between the new tweeters and the new 4" speakers... but I'll have to make sure I ordered the right kit?!?!?

Also, keep in mind that some of the IEN speakers are 2 ohm. But especially if you're changing out your HU (head unit) like I did, they usually handle 4 ohm speakers so it's likely not a problem. I think that with the OEM HU and 4 ohm speakers, you just have to crank the volume up (from what I understand)...

So especially if you add rear speakers, you get a nice audio image in the car. Interestingly, the ASK amp take's the HU signal and drives the two 8" woofers and separates out a single center channel... while the HU drives the rears (if installed), the 4" mods in the doors and the front L/R tweeters in the dash.

Finally, as apparently the door card removal/install is a PITA, hopefully I'll get into each side and will only have to do it once. I already ordered a bunch of extra door clips (I think it was $10 for a bunch as they WILL break), some inexpensive sound deadening material from Amazon and a small roller (apparently makes a difference) and I plan to tighten everything while I'm in there (door squeaks, etc.) Plus, apparently the 4" and the tweeters drop right into place with no mods necessary, but apparently I will have to modify and reuse the baskets of the old 8" OEM speakers. Not sure how that's going to go but we'll see.

Stay tuned for updates! :)
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That looks kinda neat, @orbit398 -- especially as you have the space back there. You may want to test that out and see how it sounds -- as that's easy enough to do. Just watch for the ohms per the rear vs. what's OEM (I think).
planning to purchase the same 8" & 4" speakers you are getting for the door, and then a Focal 6.5" for the back spots. Leaving the stock ASK amplifier as these speakers are supposed to be super-efficient and not need a lot of power to drive them, per WoofersEct folks. Let us know how the 8" installation goes.
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Will do; the speakers arrive tomorrow. Again, my key thing is figuring out how to somehow reuse the 8" basket and mount the Focals in there without some sort of adapter. Already have the sound deadening material and roller in hand. BTW, some people wind up disconnecting the center tweeter -- but I'm just leaving it alone. I personally wouldn't have bothered upgrading at all -- but I figure it's worth the investment for far better speakers as the OEMs are already blown.

Again, neat idea per the 6.5" -- The good thing is that with SPP, it's pretty straightforward and easy enough to try and see if you like the audio imaging in a test. I bet the sound is pretty great in a Cayman...
BTW - The speakers arrived a day early. From what I can see behind the backing plates of the Focal tweeters that arrived in the 8" kit, it sure looks like the crossovers (capacitor) are already soldered onto them internally -- which makes sense. So from what I understand, those are a simple and straight swap...as the OEM tweeters similarly have the crossover (capacitor) directly soldered on. No separate crossovers that came with that 8" Focal kit.

As for the 4", they came with separate inline crossovers, which I'm wondering if I'll wind up needing to put them inline with the 8"...and on which side (red/black?). Any thoughts, let me know. I'll have to go back and look at the diagrams when I have time.
As for the 4" mid-woofer, I assume the crossover is needed as the it serves as a filter that blocks out unwanted frequencies to a speaker or group of speakers. I think the 8" & 4" are wired together from the ASK amplifier, and if true, I assume the crossover would allow only the mid frequencies to those speakers, making them boom a bit more. I am not expert and would check with the WooferEct guys.

Crossover are used to direct sound to the correct driver, i.e., the tweeters, woofers and subs should get high, mid and low frequencies respectively.
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Sounds good. I'll also take a look at the OEM speakers to see if/what might be in place. As I said, I'm pretty confident that I'll find the crossover (capacitor) already soldered onto the OEM tweeter...so that'll be a start.
🍿

And I think I followed your first post correctly... you're keeping the ASK amp, right? (You mentioned that wasn't contributing to buzz/hiss.)

Was it difficult to connect the new sony headunit to the ASK amp?
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🍿

And I think I followed your first post correctly... you're keeping the ASK amp, right? (You mentioned that wasn't contributing to buzz/hiss.)

Was it difficult to connect the new sony headunit to the ASK amp?

that's what I plan to do. These Focal speakers are supposed to be very efficient, thus not needing a new/more powerful amplifier. Replacing the amp seems to be more work than I want to mess with.
🍿

And I think I followed your first post correctly... you're keeping the ASK amp, right? (You mentioned that wasn't contributing to buzz/hiss.)

Was it difficult to connect the new sony headunit to the ASK amp?
Yes, I'm keeping the ASK amp as that seemed fine and was bench tested by a place that specializes on them.

Started on the right door this afternoon. Not as terrible as I thought, but wear protective gloves so you don't get cut, etc. Removed the 4" and 8". Foam was completely gone in the former, and a laughably tiny wisp of it remained in the latter. No wonder the sound was so terrible. Tweeter was a bear to remove (I trashed it in the process), and I'm kicking myself for not wearing gloves during that as I'm realizing I'm bleeding as I write this. LOL!

FYI - To preserve the original wiring harnesses connector, as usual -- I'm going to just use PosiTaps everywhere.

Early assessments:

1) Focal tweeter might need the housing removed to drop in to the slot; unclear as of yet. UPDATE: You can remove the backing fairly easily (small slot in the side), as it's meant to be removed. With that, I think it'll be a drop-in situation. CROSSOVER: You can see the capacitor on the OEM as expected on the positive side, especially once you remove the backing.

2) 8" is the problem child as I had feared. Can't figure out for the life of me how to properly mount it. Just ordered two plastic 1/2" pre-drilled spacers on Amazon, which might hopefully mount to the door and the speaker. Couldn't figure out how in the world to easily re-use the basket of the OEM 8" -- but I could easily see how a 6.5" would easily fit inside without any issue. CROSSOVER: Here's where things get tricky. OEM speaker clearly does NOT have a crossover, but the Focal DOES. Not sure if I should bypass it or not.

3) 4" looks like a straightforward drop-in. CROSSOVER: As there is a capacitor soldered onto the OEM 4" but not the Focal 4", yes -- I will be installing the the included crossover. No instructions in that kit, but I'm fairly confident that it goes on the positive side -- as the inline crossover is on the positive side of the 8" Focal and the tweeter. Reading on the web, it may make no difference given it's a series circuit...but I believe convention has it on the positive side.


BTW - I completely expect to have set off the airbag light per the door removal. But as I have to go back in there anyway with my PIWIS 2, not a big deal.
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@foodbiker , This is perfect timing for me as I have an appointment at a local car stereo shop next week to get my speakers replaced and I have been unable to determine the exact speaker sizes (diameter and mounting depth) in order to select replacements…until I found this thread!

I see your 8” and 4” choices for the doors - thanks for posting - but what about the dash tweeters? Did I miss seeing those? If nit, would you mind posting their details as well? It would be a tremendous help to me to be able to know exactly which speakers to get before I take my car in since they said they’d have to do some dismantling to see what’s there in order to determine what “might” fit. 🙄

Thanks in advance! 🙏
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Yes, I'm keeping the ASK amp as that seemed fine and was bench tested by a place that specializes on them.

Started on the right door this afternoon. Not as terrible as I thought, but wear protective gloves so you don't get cut, etc. Removed the 4" and 8". Foam was completely gone in the former, and a laughably tiny wisp of it remained in the latter. No wonder the sound was so terrible. Tweeter was a bear to remove (I trashed it in the process), and I'm kicking myself for not wearing gloves during that as I'm realizing I'm bleeding as I write this. LOL!

FYI - To preserve the original wiring harnesses connector, as usual -- I'm going to just use PosiTaps everywhere.

Early assessments:

1) Focal tweeter might need the housing removed to drop in to the slot; unclear as of yet. UPDATE: You can remove the backing fairly easily (small slot in the side), as it's meant to be removed. With that, I think it'll be a drop-in situation. CROSSOVER: You can see the capacitor on the OEM as expected on the positive side, especially once you remove the backing.

2) 8" is the problem child as I had feared. Can't figure out for the life of me how to properly mount it. Just ordered two plastic 1/2" pre-drilled spacers on Amazon, which might hopefully mount to the door and the speaker. Couldn't figure out how in the world to easily re-use the basket of the OEM 8" -- but I could easily see how a 6.5" would easily fit inside without any issue. CROSSOVER: Here's where things get tricky. OEM speaker clearly does NOT have a crossover, but the Focal DOES. Not sure if I should bypass it or not.

3) 4" looks like a straightforward drop-in. CROSSOVER: As there is a capacitor soldered onto the OEM 4" but not the Focal 4", yes -- I will be installing the the included crossover. No instructions in that kit, but I'm fairly confident that it goes on the positive side -- as the inline crossover is on the positive side of the 8" Focal and the tweeter. Reading on the web, it may make no difference given it's a series circuit...but I believe convention has it on the positive side.


BTW - I completely expect to have set off the airbag light per the door removal. But as I have to go back in there anyway with my PIWIS 2, not a big deal.
have any pics on how it looks, wiring ect as I haven't taken my car panels off yet. Assume one wire from the ASK Amp feeds the 4" & 8" speakers?
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@DS3 - Happy to help if I can. I ran into a major issue tonight the dash tweeters are not fitting; a lot of people have been able to easily shuck the earlier versions where they just drop in. These appear very glued together; unclear if I want to potentially sacrifice these (they'd run $100 to replace). We'll see...

@orbit398 - I'll keep you posted per a few pics and the ASK amp wiring coming into the door.

Stay tuned. :)
@DS3 - Happy to help if I can. I ran into a major issue tonight the dash tweeters are not fitting; a lot of people have been able to easily shuck the earlier versions where they just drop in. These appear very glued together; unclear if I want to potentially sacrifice these (they'd run $100 to replace). We'll see...
Thanks @foodbiker . Just so I understand, is your tweeter issue that you are having difficulty removing them, or that the new ones don’t fit? I ask because I’m ok with sacrificing the current factory tweeters as long as that doesn’t negatively impact the ability to install new ones.

Speaking of, what tweeters did you buy?
To try and answer your questions, @DS3 --

1) Tweeters are the ones that came with with the IS-200. In their current housing, unlike previous Focal models, they don't seem to be easily removed from their housings. They're slightly too big to fit into the corners as-is. Unclear if I want to take a chance destroying the plastic (and potentially destroying them) to make them fit.

2) Removing the OEM tweeter was very difficult as expected, but doable. I wound up destroying the OEM one in the process (no big deal) but wear gloves when you do it. Despite the fact that there are two metal clips that hold it into place in the dash, they didn't easily pop out as I had hoped.

Hope that clarifies things!
Yes, I'm keeping the ASK amp as that seemed fine and was bench tested by a place that specializes on them.
So did you use any special harness adapter from the sony to the ASK? (Something like you might get at crutchfield, etc..?)


And keep those photos coming! ;)
@tiiger - Yes I'm pretty sure that was the exact harness adapter I used, which went in the back of the Sony HU.
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Generally speaking, I would NOT remove any crossover or capacitor that is already part of the new speaker. These are likely there to protect the speaker, after all... no sense in removing it as it could cause the speaker to fail, and then it won't be warrantied.

That said, I would like to know what is actually there (on the 8" speaker)... as it may be more than just a capacitor? If it's just a cap, if you can read the value, we can likely determine what it's doing and how low it will filter (we'd need to know the speaker impedance as well to calculate this).

For the 8", you could probably get away with removing it... as they are not as sensitive to low frequencies. The tweeter, however, WILL be more sensitive, and could blow out without the capacitor... ask me how I know :)
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That makes sense, @schwinn -- especially as it is there to block frequencies. It was more of a question of just potentially bypassing it as opposed to removing -- given it was very strange not to see any crossover on the OEM 8".

Also very strange to see the OEM negative wire (stripe on it) from the wiring harness to affix to the crossover on the 4". However, I'll place it on the positive side during reinstallation.

Will keep you posted on the Focal 8" and it's crossover...

Pressing concerns are (1) the Focal tweeter disassembly and (2) modifying the OEM 8" basket to serve as an adapter for the Focal 8". Once those are ironed out, I think things will (ideally) move along a bit more smoothly.
If you look at Suncoast for the replacement components, this is the stock tweeter.


Tough to read the part number, but looks like 7PP 035 4??

You can also read what looks like "997 645 021" in there.

Cross-referencing porsche parts, looks like it might be the one, but it may very well just be a stock pic of any porsche tweeter and NOT the specific one for the 987. Is this what it looks like, @foodbiker ?


Peripheral Camera accessory Gadget Audio equipment Automotive wheel system
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Yes, @tiiger -- That's what in there: (997 645 021 00).
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