I noticed an improvement in gas mileage which I suspect is a result of reduced internal friction as everything wore in. Reduced friction should result in an increase in power output.
It's reduced friction of all the bearing surfaces in the drivetrain and better
sealing of the cylinder/piston interface which gets smoothed out after the
first few hours of running.
When you're breaking in the engine you want to slowly vary the RPM range
and dynamic pressure levels in the cylinders, slowly increaing both over
time. You don't want to get to upper RPM ranges or higher pressures until
over 1000 miles. It helps to do this in very low or ideally no traffic because
you can speed up and slow down without bothering anyone and to your
liking. THe breakin procedure in the manual is just about the worst thing
you can do because if you do what it says, the first time the engine sees
4000, 5000, 6000, 7000, and redline is all at the same time. Very bad.
And it says nothing about cylinder pressure levels (=torque, really). But
the published break-in procedure is too complicated for most. So a proper
one would make everyone get really confused.
I broke in a bike once very
carefully - the first 1000 miles each ride was planned what I would do and
I drove it in sparse traffic so I could achieve what I wanted. Contrast with
a friend who bought an identical bike at the same time. His first act while
riding was to pin his throttle at about 800 RPM and he was redlining his
bike in the first couple miles. Months later he could never beat me in a drag
race, even if he had a better launch. My bike would just walk away from
his every single time.