Planet-9 Porsche Forum banner
1 - 20 of 62 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
317 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Water Pump went out last Friday and I have the parts, coolant plus a new Thermostat. I've read the articles on the DIY's and the Water Pump threads but wanted to know from folks out there who have replaced the water pump themselves, if you have any other tips and advice. I will be bleeding the system manually as well as I don't have the vacuum bleeder.

Any tips and advice is much appreciated! And any other things to look out for.

Thank you in advance!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
479 Posts
You can borrow vac bleeder from me.

I haven't done the WP myself but done plenty on lots of other cars.

Doesn't look that hard from the article, but having a lift makes life easier. Those under panels and such need to be removed - which I find extremely annoying.
And you have to get behind the seats as well.

The thermostat is probably trickier than the pump. Some special compression tool or technique or some such. I'd do it too for the hassle of the pump labor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
I'm doing the same job. Where is the best place to attach the vacuum pump? The coolant filler neck or someplace else?

Thanks,

Todd
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
479 Posts
Kinda similar to the Cayman https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQnfUe6P5VI

I mounted the airlift device on the expansion tank.

Maybe my compressor wasn't strong enough, but there wasn't a lot of suction strength (I didn't drain the system though, so it had a lot of coolant still)

And it misted the coolant in operation. So make sure you cover the air outlet portion to avoid overspray on your interior.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
When I replaced my water pump last summer I didn't use vacuum approach, but instead choose to use hose pliers available from Amazon and others. These allow you to pinch off the hoses and thereby avoid draining the entire system.

I purchased a set of pliers containing an assortment of three pliers, plus one additional large-sized, because for the Cayman's water pump you a total of three; two large and one smaller. This approach worked great for me.

Suggest you review this article that I found to be very helpful. OEM Water Pump - Articles. Be sure to check the bolts' torque value because the article lists them at 7 ft-lbs whereas my manual shows 7.5 ft-lbs. I used a 1/4 inch adjustable click-stop torque wrench which worked well in the tight area, but I still needed a universal joint and extension for the one 'hidden bolt'.

Also, this would be a really good time to replace your serpentine belt, plus if you're considering it, installing an underdrive crankshaft pulley. I did the pulley in an effort to extend the life of the new water pump.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
Thank you.

Todd


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,259 Posts
Keep track of the bolts on water pump. The two at 6 & 9 o'clock are longer than the others.

Good Luck

Rob
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
2,307 Posts
Kinda similar to the Cayman https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQnfUe6P5VI

I mounted the airlift device on the expansion tank.

Maybe my compressor wasn't strong enough, but there wasn't a lot of suction strength (I didn't drain the system though, so it had a lot of coolant still)

And it misted the coolant in operation. So make sure you cover the air outlet portion to avoid overspray on your interior.
Airlift system is not designed to drain the liquid from your system.. only the air.. you still have to go downstairs to drain the coolants..

Lemon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
317 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey guys,

Thank you very much for the replies!

Jeff, I might take you up on that offer sir if I have any issues with bleeding. I really appreciate the offer!

Lemon, thank you as well, if I have any issues I'm taking my car to your shop lol

Car guy, Thank you for your suggestion, I bought the plastic clamps to hold the hoses yesterday.
I probably won't be able to work in it this weekend but probably next weekend and ill keep you guys posted on any issues that come up.

Thanks again everyone!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
I replaced the water pump and t-stat on my Boxster about a month ago. Took about 4 hours total. I did not have to remove the engine cover...I just slid my Bose subwoofer bar back a little to remove the screws holding the carpet in place for the panel behind the seats. I had plenty of room to work on the water pump from just the access panel. I did not just any vacuum devices, nor did I try to clamp off the hoses...my car is now 10 years old and figured I'd try to replace as much coolant as I could get out. I was able to get about 5 gal out just through the line to the t-stat and on off the lines from the front radiators right near the t-stat. If you are trying to drain as much coolant as possible, remember to run your heater (engine off) so the valves open. Also, play with the jack height at the corners so gravity can draw the coolant to the t-stat area.

I used a little steel wool to clean up the gasket mating surface on the engine block.

If you've been reading the DIY's you should have seen one on how to burp the air from the lines. I used the technique where you start the engine, run for a few seconds, turn off, repeat few times, then accelerate a few times and turn off, then hold rpm at 2k for a few minutes and turn off. You will need top top off each time you turn engine off, or have a helper top off. I had to top off one more time the next day and all has been fine since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
317 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
20150320_120734.jpg 20150320_122412.jpg 20150320_120734.jpg 20150320_122412.jpg

So I tackled this job today. It took me almost all day since I was really taking my time- even washed the car while letting it cool down in between burping the system.

The odd thing with the pump was the shaft wasn't even wobbling and the bearing looked fine- no play. I'm guessing that the gasket failed or something- not too sure... but the pump looked fine for having 88k miles!!!

The articles really helped and followed it the T! I think I still need to burp again tomorrow just for the heck of it. I took it the operating temp then let it cool down twice and the level didn't change but just for the sake of it, will burp again tomorrow.

The only pain was the bolt right under the pulley- just needed to be patient or you need to have small hands lol!

Also it helped unhooking the battery as I didn't get any errors due to low coolant. I've read in the other threads that folks were getting low coolant warnings and errors probably due to the coolant sensor.

Otherwise it was straight forward. Thank you all for your tips!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,160 Posts
Yeah, it isn't that hard, getting all the air out is probably the hardest thing. One piece of advice: Keep a gallon jug of coolant/distilled water in the frunk for a couple of weeks and check the coolant level at least every day you drive it after it warms up. There is probably still some air trapped somewhere and having that jug will allow you to top it off wherever you may be and prevent any possibility of engine damage. I used an Air Lift to change my coolant a couple of years ago and still had air trapped for 3-4 days. I did my water pump last Spring and didn't hook up the Air Lift, just replaced what coolant I lost in the repair, and again there was air in the system for a couple of days.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
317 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thank you Mitch.

Some had suggested to drive a couple of miles with the bleed cap open which I may do this weekend.

Thanks again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
Wow...looks like this is a dealer job for me T_T

How much is a dealer water pump replacement? Just seeing if the labor is worth the savings
 
1 - 20 of 62 Posts
Top