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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
TL;DR version: I found a Bluetooth adapter and a fusebox tapping method to allow my phone to auto-connect for streaming music (via the AUX-in of my CDR-30) when I start my 987.2.

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I have spent a fair amount of time on these forums and on the web in general looking for a solution which would allow my phone to sync with a bluetooth adapter (connected to the AUX-in) when I get in the car, rather than having to do it manually via the adapter or phone. This would allow me to start my music right away rather than having to mess around with menus and devices.


The phone has always auto-connected to the CDR-30 (via bluetooth) for use as a phone, but never to stream music. Using the AUX-in via an external cable or bluetooth adapter was the only reliable way to play music from the phone. And up to now that always required me to manually trigger the connection in some way (yes, first-world problems).

So anyways, I finally have a solution up and running!

There are two essential problems that I had to fix:

First, I needed a Bluetooth adapter that would auto-connect with my phone at startup. Up until now, I had been using a GOgroove BLUEgate RCV adapter. It was great in that it a) worked as designed; and b) had a battery to maintain the connection if not plugged-in to a micro-USB power source. It was insufficient in that it a) wouldn't auto-connect with my phone unless I pressed its button and held it for a few seconds (not always easy to access in the armrest when I'm driving and realize I forgot to connect the phone), b) would drain its little battery if not connected to a power source; and c) would drain the car's battery if left connected to the 12V socket in the passenger footwell.

Second, I needed to find a way to have power supplied and terminated with key insertion in the ignition so that I didn't have to fear draining the battery by leaving a bluetooth adapter plugged-in to power when I'm not in the car.

For the first problem, I hunted high and low for a bluetooth adapter which:

  • Will auto-connect to my phone when powered-up or when I get within range
  • Will only stream music/nav from my phone and not the phone functions (the car was taking-care of the latter)
  • Is powered by micro-usb or some other source that could easily work with the 12V power socket in my footwell
  • Is small enough to fit in the armrest compartment where my aux-in is

There were many adapters out there that would cover 1-3 of the above points, but not all four. Finally after hours of searching online, I found the HomeSpot NFC-Enabled Bluetooth Audio Receiver. It covered "all of the above" and didn't have an internal battery (which is important, because it would power-off when the power source was disconnected). It even has NFC for easy pairing with a phone, but I have yet to use that feature.

Here's a photo of it in my armrest cubby, connected to my aux-in (note that the micro-USB cable is unplugged in this photo):

IMG_3092.JPG

That solved the first problem.

Now for the second problem. And frankly, this was solved by searching the Planet-9 forums (thank you!). So I am shamelessly stealing/consolidating/customizing the solutions noted in other threads here. This is how I applied the lessons and hopefully they can help others.

Recall, the second problem was finding a way to cut power to the 12V socket when the car is turned-off. I took it one step further in that I wanted to have power applied to the socket when the key was in the ignition, both before and after the ignition was activated (a subtle distinction). More on that later.

So based on what I learned on the Planet-9 forums, I settled on a fuse-based solution:

First, I surfed-on over to Amazon and bought a Littelfuse FHA200BP ATO Add-a-fuse Kit. Also, I bought a WirthCo 3001 Fuse Tap Kit for ATO Fuses.

The plan was to pull the fuse from the 12V sockets (Row B, Position F8) and then connect it to another fuse that was only supplied power when the key was in the ignition. The latter part was actually quite difficult. Most fuses in the box either a) have power with no key in the ignition, or b) only have power when the ignition is activated. Even the radio has power full-time (I didn't know that until today)!

Below is a photo of the fusebox:

Fuse Locations.jpg

I have noted above where the location of the 12V socket fuse is on my 987.2 (Row A, position F8) -- I have already pulled the fuse in this photo and that's why it's missing. It is a 7.5A fuse.

Note I have annotated which the "hot" contact is (where the power comes from the car) and which "cold" contact is (where the power goes to the device).

On the row below that (Row B) in position F9, there is an unused socket with only a "hot" contact (which you can see in the photo -- there is no metal contact in the cold position for that plug). According to my fuse diagram on the inside cover of the box, this position is for "Tiptronic Position Switch TRM 86S (Only 997)". Given the "Only 997" label, my guess is that it is safe to assume that this position goes unused in all 987s like mine. And as luck would have it, this plug is only supplied power when a key is in the ignition or when the ignition is activated. It was the only one I could find where this was the case (I tried a bunch, but not all).

Now that I had identified the two plugs which I needed to bridge in the fuse box, I had to "adapt my adapter" to function properly.

The adapter comes looking like this:

41XuJzoZHWL.jpg

And I "adapted" it to look like this:

IMG_3082.JPG

Getting the fuse tap into the end of the Littelfuse adapter was a bit tough. I had to trim a little bit off the end of the tap, and then use pliers to fold/bend the tap so that I could insert it into the round hole of the blue part of the Littelfuse adapter. It was a classic "square peg / round hole" problem and thus I had to modify the peg to make it fit in the hole. I don't have a photo of this, but when presented with the problem the solution becomes pretty apparent.

Once I got the end of the tap modified and inserted into the Littlefuse adapter, I then had to crimp the blue part of the adapter so that it would hold the tap in-place. This required strong pliers and a strong grip. Finally, I had to flatten the entire tap so that it would insert cleanly into the fuse box.

With that complete, I had to bend the blue portion of the adapter to an approximate right angle so that it didn't protrude from the fuse position and prevent the fuse box cover from going back in place. You'll see this in the last photo of the post. Below is a close-in view of the connector I built using the Littelfuse and bent tap:

IMG_3083.JPG

With all of that complete, I was ready to insert the Littelfuse adapter into the fuse box. I plugged it into the Row B, F9 position, and then plugged the blue/tap end into the "cold" contact of the Row A, F8 position. Worked like a charm:

IMG_3089.JPG

I put the fuse-cover on, and everything worked as-intended. Now, when I insert my key in the ignition, the 12V socket in the passenger footwell gets power, which then turns-on the Bluetooth adapter, which then auto-connects with my phone.

If you're curious which USB adapter I use in my passenger footwell, it's the Scosche USBC242M 12 Watt USB Car Charger. It is pretty low-profile, has lots of power, and two USB ports. I use one for my Bluetooth adapter, and another for my Nexus wireless charger. I would add a photo, but I'm at my limit for this post.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here's a photo of the footwell USB power:

IMG_3090.JPG

I wire the USB power to the bluetooth adapter under the plastic of the center console. Then it comes out of the console at the side of the seat and ducks into the armrest cubby.

That bend in the USB power cable makes me a little uncomfortable and I'm going to see if I can find one with a right-angle plug that would present a bit less risk of wire fatigue.
 

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Thanks for the write-up! I'm interested in adding this to a list of projects to do as I've been wondering about a solution. Thanks!
 

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Excellent write up!
I have been wanting to do the same bluetooth auto connect for my CDR-30 and just needed to know where I can get a switched 12V supply - thanks for locating the 12v tap in the fuse box!:cheers:
 

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Zed273, thanks for the writeup. I just did this today and it works great!
Just a note, the way you installed the add-a-fuse works, but it isn't really the way it was intended. You basically have it upsde down. The hot side is the terminal furthest from the red wire. The other terminal would be to supply the existing circuit for the fuse location that is being used. Your way works because you have both fuses installed, so actually you have two fuses protecting the 12v outlets' circuit. If you removed one of the fuses, the 12v outlets wont have power.
If you flip the add-a-fuse around, then you will only need to use one fuse which will protect the 12v outlets' circuit. The second fuse isn't necessary because the slot you are using is not used to power anything otherwise.
 

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Zed273, I now have a better understanding of your wiring, and it's a great solution! Now, I have been searching for the fuse that controls the cig/power port in the armrest area. I tried reading that wiring diagram available on this site, but anybody which row and position that one is located at? I'll try to avoid messing with the power port in the foot well if I can.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ChiGuy1215 -- Ms. Di Rossi has been sleeping for the winter, but I plan to wake her this weekend. I'll pull the fusebox diagram then and see if I can identify the cig/power port fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I found this A2D-CDR30 Blueooth Audio Streaming Adapter for Porsche CDR-30/31 Radios :: Bluetooth & Streaming Audio and was interested to see if anyone had any experience using it? It is currently out of stock, but I sent a request in to see if/when it will be available again. If I was to go this route which fuse location do you think would be best?
Looks like a great option if it comes back in-stock. I don't think you'll have to wire it to the fuse box as it likely draws power from the DIN plug in the pack. Let me know if it works for you!

Edit: Just looked at the installation manual. It appears you do need to wire it to power. In this case I would use the same fuse location I used -- the "Tiptronic Position Switch TRM 86S (Only 997)" in Row B, position F9. That way you'll get power with the key in the ignition but not when the key is removed.
 

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Looks like a great option if it comes back in-stock. I don't think you'll have to wire it to the fuse box as it likely draws power from the DIN plug in the pack. Let me know if it works for you!

Edit: Just looked at the installation manual. It appears you do need to wire it to power. In this case I would use the same fuse location I used -- the "Tiptronic Position Switch TRM 86S (Only 997)" in Row B, position F9. That way you'll get power with the key in the ignition but not when the key is removed.
Thank you Zed! I'll give it a try when it comes back in stock and post the results.
 

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Is there a way to fix this on the phone end? The WebEx app on my android phone will use the car speaker for audio playback which is fantastic, but I haven't been able to get the other audio programs to stream the same way. If WebEx and phone calls can do it through the native OEM interface, why not other apps? I'd much rather use my phone for podcasts than my car.
 

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So I received the aforementioned Bluetooth receiver and installed it. For the red power cable I ran it under the dash and up to the fuse box, drilled a small hole and ran the wire through it to alleviate any pinching with the fuse cover/foot well wire cover trim. Using the add-a-fuse you suggested, I placed it into (Row B) position F9, which was occupied with a 7.5A fuse since my car has a PDK. Inserted the key and everything worked like a charm. No wires to be seen anywhere!

Thank you Zed273 for posting this!


Update-Took the car for a drive today and it was apparent that B9 doesn't supply enough power while the engine is on. The receiver was cutting on and off and there was a buzzing crackling sound coming from the speakers when the stereo was in AUX. Tried C6, which is power only when ignition is on, and everything worked perfectly. I'll leave it for now.
 

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....Using the add-a-fuse you suggested, I placed it into (Row B) position F9, which was occupied with a 7.5A fuse since my car has a PDK......it was apparent that B9 doesn't supply enough power while the engine is on. The receiver was cutting on and off and there was a buzzing crackling sound coming from the speakers when the stereo was in AUX. Tried C6, which is power only when ignition is on, and everything worked perfectly. I'll leave it for now.
So is the C6 position associated with any function or option?

As a side point, I have UAI so there is a USB port in my armrest. I am wondering if anyone has used a bluetooth receiver device and successfully powered it for longer periods using the USB stick port as a charging port.
 

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I tackled this one tonight and it works like a charm! Bought the same parts as OP but instead of trying to jam the fuse tap connector into the blue wire connector, I just cut the blue wire connector off and used one of the included connectors with the fuse tap kit:

20170427_182113.jpg

My only tip is that the part that inserts into the fuse slot is pretty flimsy, as it's intended to wrap around an existing fuse. Trying to shove it in is a lost cause, get some needlenose pliers to grip the tip and push it in (before plugging the other end into the empty slot to avoid shorts). It seems mostly secure and with the cover on I don't think it will wiggle out though it's possible, we'll see how it holds up. I might tape it in place to prevent it moving around as I feel like enough wiggling could fatigue the thin metal and cause it to break.

Also I agree with the other poster, for whatever reason B9 sounds like crap when using it to power the bluetooth adapter. C6 sounds great though, in my car that had a 15A fuse in it but it was indeed labelled as a rear wiper (which I do not have). Nothing seemed to stop working when I took it out....

But otherwise, works brilliantly! Not only will it save parasitic drain from my the bluetooth adapter (I used a Kinovo BTC450), but it also solves the problem of walking away from the car after shutting it off while your phone continues to play things through bluetooth.

Also if you do this I would strongly recommend a ground loop isolator. I got this one for $9: https://smile.amazon.com/Mpow-Groun...93345401&sr=8-3&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

Without it, my car at least makes a high pitched whine sound that increases in frequency with engine speed which is fairly annoying. When I first brought the car home I actually thought it was intake air whistling or something until I realized it only happened when my phone was plugged into the 12v outlet and the aux input at the same time. Same thing happens with the bluetooth adapter, but the ground loop isolator gets rid of it and is compact enough to fit in the center console cubby.
 

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Great thread and thanks for all the info.

I'll add my own variation I just performed today on my (new to me) 987.1 Cayman Base.

I used C6 (on with ignition) so that I could orient the add-a-fuse facing right with the power then flowing through each fuse. That wasn't possible in B7; the cover wouldn't close.

Also, for tapping into the original "cold" side of A8, I wanted a little more meat on that connection. So I took a fuse (the grey one in the bench shot), popped the element (it's now "blown") and that allowed me to use a standard tap-a-fuse for the wire going from C6 hot to A8 cold. It's nice and secure.

IMG_3141.JPG IMG_3143.JPG
 
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