It's a good method, but one you don't want to employ as the car gets older. Why?

The master cylinder plunger goes further into the bore with the pedal bleed, exposing the seals to some rougher, slightly corroded bore material - which ocurrs a few years down the figurative road. This often leads to little tears in the seal lips and eventually some leaks.

Probably not for several more years, but something to keep in mind.

 

It's a good method, but one you don't want to employ as the car gets older. Why?

The master cylinder plunger goes further into the bore with the pedal bleed, exposing the seals to some rougher, slightly corroded bore material - which ocurrs a few years down the figurative road. This often leads to little tears in the seal lips and eventually some leaks.

Probably not for several more years, but something to keep in mind.

+1. Excellent advice.
Also, better to use either a flare nut wrench or a box wrench. An open end wrench is more likely to round the edges on the relatively soft bleed nipples.

 

Definitely true!

I had a 911SC with Varioram 3.6 which had Turbo brakes - rounded off the nipple with an open end th enight before a track day.........DUH!

 

do you think it's okay to mix blue and gold brake fluid together? Also, is the slave cylinder being bled also?

 

ATE "Super" Blue and Type 200 Gold are the same except for the dyed color. If the slave cylinder you are referring to is the clutch slave cylinder, no, it is not being bled during the brake bleed process.

 

You might want to do the clutch slave cylinder at the same time as the brakes. The clutch system shares the same fluid reservoir as the brakes. Also, the clutch fluid, being actually brake fluid, ages at roughly the same rate as the brake fluid. It's not that hard to do, especially if you have power bleeder.

 

roughly how much fluid is in each brake line?

will change fluid for the first time next week staying with oem fluid. I've heard I should be able to see a color difference between old and new fluid but thought if I knew line to right rear holds x ounces then even if I don't recognize the color change I can be sure the line has been refreshed with new fluid. I've read many posts and the articles on changing fluid but not seen anything on how much fluid is in each line.

So any idea by wheel how much needs to be drained out to replace the fluid>

Thanks,
Don

ps - sticking with oem fluid as my dealer says any change will void the warranty and since I'm just getting started with DE figure it is fine for now.

 

I doubt if you will see a color difference, unless you use Super Blue. The ATE products should not have any effect on warranty coverage, but the boiling points of ATE and the OE Porsche fluids are very close, so you don't lose much by sticking with the OE fluid. You might try using Super Blue once, and timing the flow of fluid at each corner, until you see a clean change of color, then you would have it as a general reference in the future. Obviously, that works only if you are using a pressure bleeder.

Your assumption of not needing a higher temp fluid as a novice driver is not necessarily a good one. Some folks are harder on brakes and tires at first, until they get into a smooth rhythm with their driving inputs, and then become progressively more demanding on those cosummable items as they build speed. I found the brake system in the Cayman S to be a bit stressed with track use, and I would recommend going to Motul 600 fluid.

 

Wouldn't recommend using ATE BLue...throws up too many flags and too many dealers "severely question" it, some to great extent and in ways that may affect the handling of warranty issues.

 

That's exactly what happened to me as I posted earlier. Dealer blamed faulty MC on "that blue stuff" and when I took my complaint to Porsche, their response was "per your owners manual page xxx, you can only use Porsche Original brake fluid" and backed the dealership.

 

You and about 6 others. Same color fluid equals less hassles and room for baseless escuses, most use Motul 600 as noted above -