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I have a 2008 Cayman S, i changed pads today from stock to Pagid Orange for a couple of days at the Glen. The car has only 3000 miles on it, i have done this before on my Boxster S without any problems, in fact the pads were in my Boxster but i took them out when i sold the car When i went out to bed the pads, firstly i noticed while the pedal did its usual trip to the floor on the first press it never seemed to get as firm as it was with the factory pads, secondly both my ABM and PASM lights are now on in the car. I decided to drive the car for a little bit to see how it felt, and ended up locking up the right rear brake in one stop. The car seems to stop fine, but the brakes dont feel as secure as they used to. I know from other posts here many people complain about the sponginess of the pedal but never had this problem before in the month i have owned the car.

I had to disconnect the wear sensors, as i did in my Boxster and just tiewrapped them to the brake lines, i cant imagine this could be the problem. Also, on the left front i couldnt get the wear sensors off, so had to disconnect them at that little connection at the shock instead of at the pad, which also looks like the abm sensor comes in there as there are twos wires. I also had to really wrestle those anti rattle pads off the pads with a putty knife and tap the knife with a hammer (gently) but also can imagine what might be on the backplate side of the pad that could have affected things.

Anyone able to offer suggestions on where to start tomorrow to resolve the problem? Obviously don't want to go to the Glen with brake problems and couldn't beg off even if i wanted to. I still need to bleed the brakes tomorrow which might help the sponginess but i doubt it as there was nothing i could have done today that would have introduced air into the system. All suggestions accepted. Thanks
Rob
 

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Here's my guess - since the Pagids were not new, they had taken-on the "profile" of the wear on the rotors that were on your Boxster - this is probably quite different than the wear patterns on the rotors of your Cayman. When switching out pads that you're going to use again, it's recommended that when you pull the old pads out, to mark them as to the side (R/L) and position (inside/outside) where they came from. You might want to start with new Pagids that will take-on the wear pattern already on your Cayman's rotors. Not sure about the spongy pedal, since you haven't introduced any air into the system by changing the pads... my guess is that the pads are having to travel a ways to make good contact with rotors that don't match the wear already on the rotors. This could also account for the random lockup on the rear.

brad
 

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I have a 2008 Cayman S, i changed pads today from stock to Pagid Orange for a couple of days at the Glen. The car has only 3000 miles on it, i have done this before on my Boxster S without any problems, in fact the pads were in my Boxster but i took them out when i sold the car When i went out to bed the pads, firstly i noticed while the pedal did its usual trip to the floor on the first press it never seemed to get as firm as it was with the factory pads, secondly both my ABM and PASM lights are now on in the car. I decided to drive the car for a little bit to see how it felt, and ended up locking up the right rear brake in one stop. The car seems to stop fine, but the brakes dont feel as secure as they used to. I know from other posts here many people complain about the sponginess of the pedal but never had this problem before in the month i have owned the car.

I had to disconnect the wear sensors, as i did in my Boxster and just tiewrapped them to the brake lines, i cant imagine this could be the problem. Also, on the left front i couldnt get the wear sensors off, so had to disconnect them at that little connection at the shock instead of at the pad, which also looks like the abm sensor comes in there as there are twos wires. I also had to really wrestle those anti rattle pads off the pads with a putty knife and tap the knife with a hammer (gently) but also can imagine what might be on the backplate side of the pad that could have affected things.

Anyone able to offer suggestions on where to start tomorrow to resolve the problem? Obviously don't want to go to the Glen with brake problems and couldn't beg off even if i wanted to. I still need to bleed the brakes tomorrow which might help the sponginess but i doubt it as there was nothing i could have done today that would have introduced air into the system. All suggestions accepted. Thanks
Rob

My guess is that you've accidentally damaged the brake sensors when pulling out of the stock pads. As far as the spongy brake feel, speaking only in relation to a 993 and an Early 911, the Croc's brakes seem to dip lower. I've looked at other posts in this board and confirmed I'm not alone with this observation. It isn't easy going around a track like the Glen when you're unsure of your brakes. Good luck !
 

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Thanks Brad and "Myother" for the suggestions and thoughts. I did in fact mark the pads when i took them out of the Boxster and put them in the Cayman in the same position, but agree the wear patterns are probably different.

Another question....those little anti rattle disks that are glued to the rear pads, do they need be there? they are about the size of .50 pieces and have a nub that sits inside the caliper piston. I took them out figuring they would just rattle around but are they in fact part of the ABM or extraneous?
 

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Thanks Brad and "Myother" for the suggestions and thoughts. I did in fact mark the pads when i took them out of the Boxster and put them in the Cayman in the same position, but agree the wear patterns are probably different.

Another question....those little anti rattle disks that are glued to the rear pads, do they need be there? they are about the size of .50 pieces and have a nub that sits inside the caliper piston. I took them out figuring they would just rattle around but are they in fact part of the ABM or extraneous?
These are for anti-squeal purposes - you don't have to put them back in if you don't want, but they do help keep the street pad be more quiet. They are not part of the ABS system.

brad
 

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Also, on the left front i couldnt get the wear sensors off, so had to disconnect them at that little connection at the shock instead of at the pad, which also looks like the abm sensor comes in there as there are twos wires.
Hopefully you did not disconnect the second set of wires (in addition to the brake wear sensor wires). That second set of wires goes to the wheel position sensor. This tells the ABS and PSM systems how fast this particular wheel is turning. If you left this disconnected, both ABS and PSM will throw a fit and light up failure lights.

If you did disconnect the wheel rotation sensor, just reconnect it. Everything may reset itself after a few miles. If not, you'll need the error codes to be cleared.

Doug
 

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...on the left front i couldnt get the wear sensors off, so had to disconnect them at that little connection at the shock instead of at the pad...
I'm pretty sure you need to have ends of the wear sensors present, even if tied back, or you will trigger a brake wear warning light. Another alternative is to connect the two sensor wires with a jumper to keep the circuit closed.
 

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imo you should take it to a mechanic before you hurt someone
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So, the long and short of it.....i had in fact dislodged one of the abs wires when i disconnected the wear sensor, i pushed it the rest of the way in, bled the brakes and changed the fluid. All the other lights/flashers, dingers bells and buzzers went out, I got a "check engine light" for maybe 20 miles on the highway which went out and pedal went back to being nice and solid. I didnt really get any air out of the lines but hey the outcome is great. :thanks:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
extanker, i have to respectfully disagree about bringing it to the mechanic everytime you get a light or sensor if you work on your own cars. One thing i have learned with many years of racing Spec Miatas, tearing engines apart etc is that if you do something wrong, but you didnt really change anything drastic, you didnt break anything, the car doesnt feel radically different and you dont just go out and drive it hard, is that you back track what you did, you think about it logically, you ask advice from places like this, you can save yourself a ton of aggravation and money. Especially with cars with all the electronics, while they are smart, they arent thinking. Example....while on the track i got all kinds of tire pressure warnings on my car...why? because at cold pressures, which for the track are much lower than normal pressures, the tire sensors dont know how much heat will build up the pressures to higher than street pressures. I got a "flat tire" signal when i was driving up to the false grid...but all i did was get out, check the pressure, and ignored the "flat tire" alarm which went off after 1 lap.

Most check engine lights will sense a failure etc but after a certain number of starts, or miles if the failure ceases the light will go out. Its the persistent ones that are worth checking.

Rob
 
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