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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all- my brake wear light just came on at 50,000 miles on my 2014 base. I’m inclined to do the front and rears with the sensors and with new rotors. I think both the front and rears are pretty low.
However, can anyone tell me from the photos which axel tropped the sensor?
Front is first, then the rear
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Rear pads and rotors look to have more than 50% life remaining.

Front pads and sensors are done.

Front rotors have visible wear, I would want to measure the thickness (minimum thickness should be stamped on the rotor hat but may be difficult to see) and also closely inspect to see how far the cracks extend. Cracks are normal BUT if the cracks go from one hole to the next or all the way to the outside edge you’ve gotten your money’s worth and time to replace.

If you’re paying someone else to do the work I would replace the pads & sensors and rotors at the same time. Calipers have to come off to replace the pads & sensors. Once the calipers are off it’s only a few minutes to replace the rotors. You can reuse the caliper bolts once maybe twice but Porsche says you have to replace them each time. It’s up to you.

And might as well do brake fluid flush while the wheels are off the car. Then you won’t have to do any more brake work for a while.
 

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Bleed? Not at all necessary for a pad change. However, a fluid flush and fill is part of normal 4 year maintenance on 981s, so if it's never been done, during a brake job would be a good time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Bleed? Not at all necessary for a pad change. However, a fluid flush and fill is part of normal 4 year maintenance on 981s, so if it's never been done, during a brake job would be a good time.
It’s about 2.5+ years since the last flush. I got a pressure blender so I can do it myself for the first time.
 

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Bleed? Not at all necessary for a pad change. However, a fluid flush and fill is part of normal 4 year maintenance on 981s, so if it's never been done, during a brake job would be a good time.
Bleed, flush, tomato, tomatillo…🧏

Good advice. I need to do this. Though it did test ok recently.


Shawn in VA (USA)
 

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If you're inclined to DIY, and plan to own the car for a long time, take a look at FCPeuro. Lifetime replacements on all parts you buy there, including Porsche-branded parts.

Also, fear not about using aftermarket wear sensors. They are a ton cheaper and work just fine. Not much to them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just followed up with FCP and Pelican. FCP has a front kit with Pagid pads, Zimmerman rotors for $520. It doesn’t say what Pagid formulation. Anyone have experience with Pagid pads? Do I need new $145 anti rattle clips or are the original clips ok? 50,000 miles of street driving and I don’t seem to push it too hard anymore.

TIA
 

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Rear pads and rotors look to have more than 50% life remaining.

Front pads and sensors are done.

Front rotors have visible wear, I would want to measure the thickness (minimum thickness should be stamped on the rotor hat but may be difficult to see) and also closely inspect to see how far the cracks extend. Cracks are normal BUT if the cracks go from one hole to the next or all the way to the outside edge you’ve gotten your money’s worth and time to replace.

If you’re paying someone else to do the work I would replace the pads & sensors and rotors at the same time. Calipers have to come off to replace the pads & sensors. Once the calipers are off it’s only a few minutes to replace the rotors. You can reuse the caliper bolts once maybe twice but Porsche says you have to replace them each time. It’s up to you.

And might as well do brake fluid flush while the wheels are off the car. Then you won’t have to do any more brake work for a while.
“Porsche says you have to replace them each time” BS PORSCHE WANTS YOUR MONEY. Just like charging a ridiculous price to change your spark plugs at the 20k mile service. Modern plugs can last 50-100k miles and you pay around 5$ each. I love the car but loath the company!! Caveat emptor.
 

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Yes the Porsche “branded” spark plugs are a little expensive. Or you can buy the same Bosch plug from somebody like Pelican and do it yourself, it’s not a difficult job. The issue is a steel plug in an aluminum head. Dissimilar metals have a tendency to develop an electrolytic bond after a while. And putting anti-seize on the plug threads is definitely not recommended.

The recommend torque for the caliper bolts slightly stretches the bolt, for maximum clamping force, similar to rod bolts. That’s why Porsche recommends to replace them each time. I don’t know why Porsche recommends so much torque, as the caliper bolts stress is predominantly lateral, not longitudinal.

Anyway, Porsches are not inexpensive to buy or properly maintain.

As you said, caveat emptor.
 
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