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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did go with Vorshlag Camber plates, I can get at least -2 to -2.5 max front, and suggestion on alignment, I plan on taking some of the negative camber out for the drive home, so many threads, I changed because the tire wear is killing me on the outside edges now that I drive HPDE Advanced group.
2010 Cayman S Factory wheels Hankook RS4
Neg Camber ?
Caster ?
Toe ?
 

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I did go with Vorshlag Camber plates, I can get at least -2 to -2.5 max front, and suggestion on alignment, I plan on taking some of the negative camber out for the drive home, so many threads, I changed because the tire wear is killing me on the outside edges now that I drive HPDE Advanced group.
2010 Cayman S Factory wheels Hankook RS4
Neg Camber ?
Caster ?
Toe ?
-2.5 front -2 rear with 0 toe front and 0.02 degrees toe in per side in the rear. Super stable street/track alignment that won't eat tires.

If you mess with camber on those plates it will change your toe. So you can't really adjust it without the proper gear.
 

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-2.5 front -2 rear with 0 toe front and 0.02 degrees toe in per side in the rear. Super stable street/track alignment that won't eat tires.

If you mess with camber on those plates it will change your toe. So you can't really adjust it without the proper gear.
You really want that low of rear toe? Curious on your thoughts. I'm newer to the 987, but most of the cars I have tracked in the past wanted 0.1-0.2* rear toe for stability.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the help, I am basically having tires flipped on the rim every 2 events, so should I leave caster stock, I plan on using my all season tires to drive to track or use in the rain, currently using Hankook RS4 on track, I was moving top of strut as far in as possible before Camber Plates probably not even adding 1/2 a degree, with your experience would moving camber plate position from -2.5 to 0 be bad on the drive home, how does that toe, I just purchased a tire trailer, I am excited to be able to have room for some tools and tires.
 

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That'll hose your toe. -2.5 is what we run on street cars anyway. If you want to adjust camber you'll need to set toe. The front is easy with toe plates and tapes, the rear you'll have to string or use a trackside laser kit.
 

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Josh, I use an Elephant rear adjustable toe link to help get the correct 12 minutes of toe in with -2.5 camber in the rear. I find that using a LSD removes the issue of threshold brake instability or wobble that some 987 owners experience. Could you explain how an increase rear spring rate and stiffer compression/rebound help control the toe from turning to a toe out if too much compression happens when running a small toe in.
 

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Hi Apex1,
Assuming you have spherical bearings everywhere you won't get much change from deflection. It just comes down to f/r bump steer with height changes. We run SPL (Tarett makes these too) TRE and Toe links to minimize bump steer in the front and rear.

Josh, I use an Elephant rear adjustable toe link to help get the correct 12 minutes of toe in with -2.5 camber in the rear. I find that using a LSD removes the issue of threshold brake instability or wobble that some 987 owners experience. Could you explain how an increase rear spring rate and stiffer compression/rebound help control the toe from turning to a toe out if too much compression happens when running a small toe in.
 

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cteckiller2000, So yes you can run lower toe in amounts, but you also need toe links that have bump steer adjustments to help. I use adjustable Elephant Toe links in the rear and steering links in front. both with bumpsteer adjustments.
 

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cteckiller2000, So yes you can run lower toe in amounts, but you also need toe links that have bump steer adjustments to help. I use adjustable Elephant Toe links in the rear and steering links in front. both with bumpsteer adjustments.
Apex,
I use the Tarret toe links in the rear as well. No bumpsteer adjustment. On track recently I found the car to be very well behaved with 0.20* total rear toe in.
 

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vteckiller2000 I use Elephant rear toe links with bumpsteer adjustments and front tie rod links. The bumpsteer adjustment is on the ball joint bolt. Its how many spacers you put between the top of the ball joint and the attachment hole on the upright, for both the f and r. Those washers are shown on the front tie rod links. What this does allows less of toe in in the rear and I use 5 minutes of toe out in f to speed up turnin. In the rear I use 10 minutes of toe in along with a LSD to stabilize the rear threshold braking along with Pedro's rear frame support bar and the Tarett Cup (race spec) LCAs both f and r with their red solid thrust arm bushing. I am surprised how little rear inside shoulder wear I have, even with -2.5 rear camber on the street where 95% of my use is these days.
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