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Discussion Starter #1
I've been running max stock negative camber for a couple years now, but I'm to the point that I need to get more camber in the front to keep my tires from wearing out prematurely. One of the tracks I frequent has been resurfaced and I seem to be getting less grip and more sliding tire abrasion. The camber that has been fine up to this point, is no longer working for me. I run Nitto NT-01 tires in 245-275/40R18 sizes.

My car is a 981BS and is my daily driver, but I do about 6 weekends a year in PCA Advanced HPDE. So, I don't want to go with a fully aggressive track alignment, but probably try to get about -2.5 in the front. I know most people go with GT3-style LCA's, but I'm wondering if camber plates aren't a little more practical. The cost is about half, and it would seem camber plates would also provide some additional shock tower reinforcement while not adversely affecting caster. I know if you wanted to get even more negative camber for a full track alignment, an LCA would be the only way to go. But, this car will never be a full track car, and will always be my DD first. I have a BMW M3 racecar that serves that purpose.

If you were going with an LCA, it would seem that a Tarett cup-style LCA would be most beneficial to get away from the rubber bushings, but now you're up to almost 3x the cost of camber plates.

Does anyone have experience with both or have some suspension geometry knowledge that would be beneficial in understanding this tradeoff?
 

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I do have Tarett Cup LCA's that do add more stiffness and NVH to my ride. Not sure camber plates would do all the functions as these LCA's, like adding track width, and the center puck really tightens up the forward, aft motion of the LCA's. But camber plates are a less costly solution. I ran -2.7 f and -2.5 r for a couple of years without any suspension issues.
-2.5 camber should work great in front with GT3 LCA's and no rattles from a worn out spherical bearing in the camber plate.
 

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On the contrary, camber plate would be harsher on your strut towers and also add some NVH since they use a spherical bearing at the top. I've had several cars with camber plates and they do add noise.

An adjustable LCA with rubber bushings like the OEM GT3 LCAs would not increase NVH since it uses stock-like bushings. That's what i went with since i'm trying not to turn this car into a rattle can. The extra track width is a bonus, too.
 

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For a 981 that’s a daily driver with track use, even at a high level, camber plates are a great option. I have a base Cayman and have been trying to strike this balance. I’m very happy with my current setup:

1) Swapped the base suspension for the X73 fixed suspension (shocks, springs, antiroll bars). This was a fantastic swap and fits the bill for a dual-purpose car. The only problem was the very limited negative camber I could achieve (-1.4° max).

2) Rennline 991/981 Clubsport Camber Plates ($595), installation, and alignment ($622). I asked for and got camber values of -2.3° (front) and -2.0° (rear).

3) Bridgestone RE-71R tires (stock sizes on 18” wheels).

The car is a blast on the track and the street — it does a great job of both. Tire wear on the track is beautifully even.

Overall, I couldn’t be happier with the camber plate approach for my situation, which is 50/50 track/street use in advanced groups.
 

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LCAs are really the way to go. GT3 vs Cup style vs SPL completes depends a lot on what you're doing the the car. For ~6 track days a year the Cups might make sense. The GT3s are probably the ticket though.

The camber plates add fixed camber so you may not be able to take out as much camber as you want to...
 

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This is important as your tires are the key. Since we are not about track times, no timing events, you are not forced into more sliding through the corners, 4 wheel drifting etc, you can actually leave your PSM on. Until you start pushing harder, requiring more from your front tires than the -2.3 camber can protect the outside shoulders. The GT3 OEM LCA's will allow for your next step to -2.7 f and -2,5 r to reduce outside tire shoulder scrub. Some have used the GT3 OEM's in front along with eccentric adjusters in the rear to achieve the same result. The added bonus is wider track from the internal camber shims (up to 20 mm).

In my mind though, until you are ready for this step, enjoy your car as is with the camber plates.

One item that I find both annoying yet very helpful is the solid red thrust arm bushing/puck in the middle of the GT3 style Tarett Cup LCA's that I use. This single item really livens up the turn in, throttle control, even weight distribution as it keeps the wheelbase f & r from moving. The downside is the NVH that is transmitted to the car, which is different than the sealed monoball suspension bushing/bearings on the inside and outside of the Cup LCA's (pictured in black) or the rubber coatings of the street version of the Tarett GT3 control arm (pictured) NVH.
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Discussion Starter #7
until you are ready for this step, enjoy your car as is with the camber plates.
I have a fully track-prepped BMW E36 M3 that I race.

The Boxster is purely for daily driving and DE's with friends in PCA. I'm not planning to ever really go fully track-prepped with this car. I'm trying to make suspension mods where it makes sense and will pay for themselves in reduced tire wear.
 

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The first mod I made on my car 07 CS with PASM was camber plates. They made a very nice improvement on track with little NVH change on the street. Highly recommended.
 
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