Are you noticing any uneven wear on your rear tires?. . . Question - if I do 2/3 straight-hwy driving and 1/3 country-mtn driving (no tracking or AX), what's the best camber to minimize long term tire wear and understeering?
I've read to minimize understeer, you don't want too much disparity between front/rear camber and I think I have a lot (-.8 to -2.0)
A) leave front camber alone and find out :thanks:if rear camber can be lowered to just -1.2 to -1.4 (?? not sure if with PSS9s and lowered 1.25 if you can get back to those stock rear camber numbers)
B) or have front camber increased to -1.5 to be closer with -2.1 rear
Won't I wear my PS2s real fast on 2/3 straight driving (500 miles/mo) if I have -1.5/-2.1 camber??
Actually I corded my first set of NT01s on the inside in 1 DE with factory alignment. I installed PSS9s and had -1.2 deg neg camber and they were still wearing on the inside. With the LCAs at -2.5, I'm finally getting some even wear. Maybe I can get 3 DEs from a set now. I understand neg camber pushes out the bottom of the tires and it shouldn't happen, but it did.The toe setting was probably excessive, causing the rapid tire wear you've described. Increasing negative camber shifts more of the load to the inner tire tread, which would tend to increase its wear rate (all else being equal.)
Camber plates do raise the front of the car approx 5mm. I'd recommend 996GT3 lower arms. You don't need the full kit with the diagonal arms. Instead, have a local machine shop fabicate spacers so you can use your existing diagonal arms. Search this site for more info. Using spacers with the GT3 lower arms brings cost of lower arms very close to cost of plates. And lower arms offer ability to get more neg camber than plates.I'd like to know from Tarett Camber plates owners if the plates raise up the front axle from the original top rubber mounts height.
Is -1.3 degrees front camber about the limit when lowered ~1" w/o the use of plates or LCAs?FWIW, I got -1.3 degrees front camber on my car - just by carefully ensuring the tops of the front struts were Truly max'ed inboard in the stock slots. (I used a prybar, with the nuts off, so I could see the slots). (My car is also lowered 1.2"). This is good for me for aggressive street driving (and free).