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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is the max negitive camber that be obtained from stock nonpasm suspension on a 06 Cayman S.:thanks:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you do any mods to increase the camber settings? I was thinking about TPC stage 2 suspension upgrades. That should give me at least -2 degrees
more if I like. I plan to run OZ 18"wheels with Nitto 01 Tires. I will use my current 19 " OEM wheels with PS2 for wet track days. Plan to trailer my CS.

Any ideas you may have on suspension mods would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Boxster Enthusiast
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I installed GT3 Lower Control Arms to get to -2.5 deg camber. I was eating the insides of my tires without them.
 

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Cayman The Destroyer!
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There are many great threads on here for track suspension mods. do a search.
I like:
1) more camber, camber plates or GT3 control arms. The plates, cheaper and gets rid of some rubber
2) anti roll bars & adjustable links. Go for the TPC bars they are worth it
3) Coil overs JIC cross, or JRZ lower abou
 

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Will the same front camber plates (regardless of mfg) fit a PASM or a Non- PASM front? Looking to buy them used off a PASM-equipped car to fit my Non-PASM 2007 Cayman S. Not a PSS9 application.

Thanks, Keith
 

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Cayman The Destroyer!
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Should be the same for either
 

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Get the Tarret Engineering Camber plates. I have them on my car, with the added front camber and ATB, it's literally the most neutral car I've driven. Slight four wheel drifts out of the Carousel at CMP with that setup. Seriously, the camber plates are probably the best spent money on a stock Cayman. It'll dial out that stupid understeer.
 

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Did a lot of searching w/o really getting an answer for camber question

I'm a recent owner of 06 CS with just PSS9 coilovers, no other susp mods. Car is lowered ~1" - 1.25" and just has 6K miles

Verified alignment numbers:
Front camber -.8 and rear -2.0
Toe-in front 2/32 and rear 1/32

Question - if I do 2/3 straight-hwy driving and 1/3 country-mtn driving (no tracking or AX), what's the best camber to minimize long term tire wear and understeering?
I've read to minimize understeer, you don't want too much disparity between front/rear camber and I think I have a lot (-.8 to -2.0)

Options:
A) leave front camber alone and find out :thanks:if rear camber can be lowered to just -1.2 to -1.4 (?? not sure if with PSS9s and lowered 1.25 if you can get back to those stock rear camber numbers)
B) or have front camber increased to -1.5 to be closer with -2.1 rear

Won't I wear my PS2s real fast on 2/3 straight driving (500 miles/mo) if I have -1.5/-2.1 camber??

:thanks:
 

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My first Cayman had 12000 miles on it. It was primarily driven on the street but I also do 8-10 track days a year. The first year I did an alignment which was -.7 in front and -1.4 in the rear. Last year I added GT3 LCA and went to -2.1 front and rear. I had no noticable wear from camber on my PS2s. If you are worried about too much rear camber, you could look at the eccentric screw on the inside end of the LCA. If the screw head is toward the outside or bottom, you can adjust inboard to gain positive camber. This would be part of an alignment job and will also require a toe adjustment. You might consider less toe at the front.
 

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. . . Question - if I do 2/3 straight-hwy driving and 1/3 country-mtn driving (no tracking or AX), what's the best camber to minimize long term tire wear and understeering?
I've read to minimize understeer, you don't want too much disparity between front/rear camber and I think I have a lot (-.8 to -2.0)

Options:
A) leave front camber alone and find out :thanks:if rear camber can be lowered to just -1.2 to -1.4 (?? not sure if with PSS9s and lowered 1.25 if you can get back to those stock rear camber numbers)
B) or have front camber increased to -1.5 to be closer with -2.1 rear

Won't I wear my PS2s real fast on 2/3 straight driving (500 miles/mo) if I have -1.5/-2.1 camber??
Are you noticing any uneven wear on your rear tires?

If you aren't planning to track or AX your car, then I'm not sure that you necessarily need to change anything. I think you would have to be driving pretty hard on the street to appreciate much, if any, understeer. To add more negative camber to the front would mean additional modification (e.g. camber plates, GT3 LCA, or slotting the strut mounts).

If you are seeing, or concerned about uneven wear on the rear tires (and perhaps reducing understeer) you could reduce the camber on the rears. FWIW, my rears are at -1.5, and I haven't noticed any significant uneven wear on my street tires.

My :2cents:
 

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PCA Nat'l DE Instructor
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Yes really!
The toe setting was probably excessive, causing the rapid tire wear you've described. Increasing negative camber shifts more of the load to the inner tire tread, which would tend to increase its wear rate (all else being equal.)
 

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I'd like to know from Tarett Camber plates owners if the plates raise up the front axle from the original top rubber mounts height.

Thank you. :)
 

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The toe setting was probably excessive, causing the rapid tire wear you've described. Increasing negative camber shifts more of the load to the inner tire tread, which would tend to increase its wear rate (all else being equal.)
Actually I corded my first set of NT01s on the inside in 1 DE with factory alignment. I installed PSS9s and had -1.2 deg neg camber and they were still wearing on the inside. With the LCAs at -2.5, I'm finally getting some even wear. Maybe I can get 3 DEs from a set now. I understand neg camber pushes out the bottom of the tires and it shouldn't happen, but it did.

EDIT: I just looked at my tires and the wear on the second set is on the outside. Sorry about that!
 

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Caymudgeon
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I'd like to know from Tarett Camber plates owners if the plates raise up the front axle from the original top rubber mounts height.

Thank you. :)
Camber plates do raise the front of the car approx 5mm. I'd recommend 996GT3 lower arms. You don't need the full kit with the diagonal arms. Instead, have a local machine shop fabicate spacers so you can use your existing diagonal arms. Search this site for more info. Using spacers with the GT3 lower arms brings cost of lower arms very close to cost of plates. And lower arms offer ability to get more neg camber than plates.
 

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FWIW, I got -1.3 degrees front camber on my car - just by carefully ensuring the tops of the front struts were Truly max'ed inboard in the stock slots. (I used a prybar, with the nuts off, so I could see the slots). (My car is also lowered 1.2"). This is good for me for aggressive street driving (and free).
 

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FWIW, I got -1.3 degrees front camber on my car - just by carefully ensuring the tops of the front struts were Truly max'ed inboard in the stock slots. (I used a prybar, with the nuts off, so I could see the slots). (My car is also lowered 1.2"). This is good for me for aggressive street driving (and free).
Is -1.3 degrees front camber about the limit when lowered ~1" w/o the use of plates or LCAs?
 
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